thank you mr. jim!!! installed your ratcheting timing chain tensioner approx. 1 year and 15,000 miles ago. my 96 nissan club cab xe truck with ka24e engine has nrver run better, and no rattle. it seems to run better as time, and miles goes on. i guess as the chain stretches the tensioner tightens it back up. thanks again for an outstanding product. excellent invention, and engineering!!!
Hi @Mr1jim, do you know whether there was a redesign of the chain followers for the 1995 D21 Hardbody pickup with the KA24E? I am mainly wondering whether the guides are metal or plastic.
To my knowledge, slack side design was not changed, the tension side was re-designed sometime between 1995 and 1996 from 100% plastic to a metal backed plastic faced guide. The re-designed tension side had a metal backed piece for strength and a slip on plastic piece that had locking tabs, plastic was used to hold down noise of chain on bare metal. If you engine was produced in late 1995 it may have the newer guide in it.
Yes, The plastic guide has a lip on each edge, controls chain from rubbing front of engine block and from drifting towards front of engine. The plastic part of the guide also controls chain oscillation that can cause it to whip back and forth. The KA24E engine has a long chain, guides are necessary. Old style american engines had short chains, no chain guides necessary
Thank You, When Tensioner piston has 3/16" or more of movement, this condition allows the distribution chain to make noise. 1st Best solution is Self Adjusting Ratchet Tensioner. 2nd best solution is Adjustable Piston. Can be Purchased At: www.martin-industries.net/ ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-JUUEo0TKG3g.html
No I don't, you can find a complete Factory Nissan manual at below web site if you are interested: nicoclub.com/archives/nissan-hardbody-pickup-truck-factory-service-manuals.html
I have the '92 KA24E with chain rattle on startup. The truck is pretty slow and my compression test was 125psi in all 4 cylinders. Is it possible I jumped a tooth on the chain or do I need new piston rings? The truck has 178,000 miles.
That's not a whole lot of miles on a KA24E, should still have lots of life left in it. Should be about 192PSI max and 142PSI min on a cold engine with a differential of about 14PSI between cylinders. I would first make sure timing chain has not jumped a tooth, if it has put it back where it needs to be. Then if compression is still low. Its slightly possible the piston in the hydraulic tensioner is collapsing under valve spring pressure as the engine is rotating, when tensioner piston collapses this allows the camshaft to jump forward up to 9 degrees or so of the crankshaft at low rpms , this could put valves opening and closing at incorrect time as related to the pistons, see below link: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-JUUEo0TKG3g.html
@@jamesmartin5370 So I checked the timing and it was fine, and I don't think that the tensioner piston was collapsing so I ended up just doing a rebuild. Half of the slack side guide was in the oil pan. I noticed Nissan stamped numbers on the crank and engine block for each journal's specific tolerance. Not sure if you would have any knowledge on whether or not I should use those numbers. The old bearings all had the same part numbers anyway and all I had was the crank polished so it should be close to STD. I'm also planning on installing your tensioner piston in the process.
The tensioner on the Z24 engine is similar but is different, piston has a plastic foot on it that rides against the chain. The Tensioner on the Z24 is located at bottom of chain on intake side of engine. The Slack side guide on yours, located on the intake side is stationary. The guide can be adjusted to eliminate a certain amount of excess chain slack. If you attempt to snug chain, don't let tensioner piston extend too far out, it will fall out and front timing chain cover will need to come off. make sure all chain slack is on the slack side, then... Upper fastener of the guide can be loosened and the hole it goes through is actually a slot so you can then adjust the guide into the chain until chain is snug. If there isn't enough slot left to adjust the guide it might be time to install new sprockets and chain if its elongated. If your chain is elongated the cam sprocket can be adjusted to bring the valves closer to timing with the crank shaft. The cam sprocket on back side has three locating holes, center hole if I remember right is where it should be with a new sprocket and chain and I think the locating hole towards the intake side will advance the camshaft slightly to bring the valves closer to in time with the crankshaft. If the chain is worn and making noise these should get the timing more where it should be and more power out of the engine.
@@Mr1jimI got the chain and guides all replaced or so I thought almost a year ago dirty mechanic gave it back to mwe not timed on the distributor I was thinking it could maybe be a problem where the oil pump is off a tooth maybe my distributor only drives when it's up all the way
@@DarrellHargroveOG If oil pump is of off one tooth, there won't be enough adjustment on the distributor for you to bring the engine into time. If it timed ok with the timing light all is good to that respect. Sounds like you may need to pull valve cover and see if you can loosen top fastener on slack side guide and snug it up. Below video has a visual of top fastener on the slack side guide, looks like it might be a challenge to reach through valve cover. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-fNDz3tyyjP4.html
