If you're looking for the best BMW DIYs, Tips, and Review, you're in the right place! Specializing in the BMW F22 m235i and F30 328i you'll find out how to diagnose and repair issues that you'll encounter with the N55 and N26/ N20 Engine.
The goal of this channel is to help you save money by giving you clear and concise DIYs on these cars as well as product reviews with 4k quality that way you can decide for yourself if these parts and projects are worthy of your hard earned money and time.
So let's keep your BMw running strong and reliable for years to come by staying on top of the maintenance and address problems promptly (the m235i has a salvaged title and has been reliable for 4+ years now).
Although you should try everything at your own risk, feel free to drop a comment in a video to inquire about a project before you embark on it.
Thanks all for the help!! I drove with it in sport mode to get the slots to mostly align. I then put in the exhaust side of the clip and got the actuator side almost in. Then turned on the car and cycled through the drive modes and it clicked into place
Would you suggest that this could happen to all BMW’s? I have a 2020 X5 M50i and I’m trying to do all preventative maintenance to avoid any problems down the road. Thanks
Used this video NONSTOP over the course of 6 hours this past Sunday replacing my valve cover and gasket. Thanks so much dude!! Also, damn you for being able to get the valve cover on so easily 🤣 took me and my buddy a solid 20 minutes tryna position it over/around/under the oil lines
Excuse me N20 with N13 which I own (118i, 2012, 170hp, auto) is the same? I mean I can use the same products that you recommend, also to change the plastic oil filter cap? Thank you!!
Just to toss in some experience so far: I bought a new 2024 X1 M35i in March 2024. I never received any notification by mail (or email) of the recall. I happened to check my VIN two months ago (around late July 2024) and it showed my car as being part of that integrated brake system recall, but with "remedy not available yet". I checked again every couple of weeks with the same results and still no notification. I did notice a warning of the recall when I checked "My Garage" on the BMW site while logged in with my account. After two months, I tried contacting the service department at my BMW dealer. They were zero help and provided no information and no attempts to help clear my questions/concerns. I asked my salesman about it and he seemed clueless, which I thought odd considering the stop sale they must have been dealing with for a while. Personally, I feel that BMW is struggling to obtain replacement parts fast enough. I assume as my car has the recall listed with I check the NHTSA that BMW must replace the part to complete the recall status. But the lack of useful and timely information/communication is very frustrating for something that impacts braking. From first-hand experiences I've read online, the braking behavior if experiencing the failure sounds like a serious safety hazard and can happen with barely any warning. But it's possible those accounts didn't have the diagnostic update yet at the time. No abnormal behavior experienced with the braking in my car yet and no warnings have popped up so far. The concern is.. with a braking system recall lingering, it makes me feel hesitant to take the car on any long trips where I often may not be near a BMW dealer if the warnings should appear.
Hallo Fritz, ich habe mir dieses Radio über Ebay gekaut. Es ist für eine BMW X1 F48 Bj 2015, das Radio läuft gut, habe aber bei der TÜV-Untersuchung ein Problem. Es kommt eine Fehlermeldung, dass die Verbindung zwischen Display und Steuergerät gestört ist. Wenn ich zum TÜV will, muss ich immer das Original Display einbauen, damit diese Fehler nicht kommt. Gibt es dafür eine Lösung. Hello Fritz, I bought this radio on Ebay. It's for a 2015 BMW X1 F48, the radio works well, but I had a problem during the TÜV inspection. An error message appears that the connection between the display and the control unit is disturbed. If I want to go to the TÜV, I always have to install the original display so that this error doesn't occur. Is there a solution for this.
Does it work on a 2005 BMW X3.0i? My windows stopped rolling up, radio says disabled heater won't turn off and I have to start it every couple of hours or it loses the charge.
Just put an ATLP catless downpipe in my TLX Type S.. exhaust is already non resonated. So its running straight pipes back to the OEM valved mufflers. Sounds amazing with the valves open, is dead silent with the valves closed.
@@bosoxbandit I live in a private house so noise levels don't bother anyone. I always open my valves. Also the V8 Bi-Turbo has a pleasant sound. I got some shorty on my channel & some videos of my car with good sound. Don't mind the GL63 naming in one video. Engine is M278 4.7 V8 Bi-Turbo 447hp with straight piped, cat delete. Flashed for Euro2 so hence no check engine light
I have Alcantara visors in my X5. I left the visors attached and put the wet alcohol paper towel on the sticker and let it sit for about 30 minutes. The sticker was noticeably wrinkly and I was easily able to scratch it off with my finger. Definitely worth doing and it looks so much better now.
As a calibration tech these torque wrenches are some of my least favorite. Half the time they're out of spec and are hard to adjust. Snap-on has the exact same model, same problems
I upgraded my 2012 f30 halogen lights to LCI LEDs and coded them with bimmercode. Once coded, the lights come on for approximately 10 seconds before flickering and turning off. Any ideas as to why this is happening? How can this be resolved? Thanks.
since i just realized you are also in finance industry, pay attention to the 2 year treasury vs fed funds price, marking pricing 250 bps cut by sept 2025, that means something is so fucking horrible is about to happen, and tell that to the all time high equity markets.
a 2011 range rover sport supercharged quoted 2700 dollars on carvana and carmax, yet it is a well functional 510 hp v8. the pricing is just fucking nuts.
and the shittier the mechanics, the more frequent the customer comes back. i just asked a valve cover gasket fix on my n55 f30 335i in seattle, 2600. lol.
i really appreciate people like you really helping out the people who just get disgusted by this current state of economy and the outrageous pricing going on and on. As a finance/asset manage background, i can assure you given where the fed balance sheet/bank reserve/fisical dominance deficit, the next wave of inflation volatility will blow the current state out of the water. just watch, the people in power does not give a single fk about ordinary people.
lol you know what, all the tech workers that just immigrated to the US mostly have 0 knowledge in car mechanics but buys 100K+ luxury cars, that is the reason dealerships can keep this imbalance between labor and profits.
I have the NT510 Foxwell, has been useless to me! I bought it in 2019, unless they changed? Last battery I coded/registered, I went to mechanic for brakes, he told me it was not registered. He did it then. / now, I just installed AGM Walmart battery and it's a nightmare! there is a keyboard screen but it's insane to get the info input. Not a touch screen! I will buy a more advanced tool because bmw mechanics are out of their minds with price.
Hey Fritz, came back to this video, I recently did millway street camber plates on my 440i xdrive with KW DDC coils, and I am getting alot of spring binding and terrible ride in comfort mode with a bad rattle (probably from the springs)...
I can only suggest adjusting the spring height. It might be "out of spec" from what KW recommends but that recommendation is based on the OEM top hat. Aftermarket top hats might sit further in the strut tower. At least that's what KW told me. Start at the max recommend height then go up by 2-3 spins at a time. That's how I did it when I got the swift springs. The video below might be more helpful. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-5GUSlvSTn0Q.html
@@FritzRamos I asked KW about running the slightly stiffer 2025 spring to get more ride height and travel at a lower perch setting, they said it might blow the dampers, but only 30lb/in more? KW sent me fresh 2041 springs and I plan to take the towers apart and triple check everything with fresh bump stops, springs, thrust bearings, and gaskets/rubber. I am worried it’s the millway plates causing the issue, but as far as I can tell they are the same dimension as oem plates.
I can only suggest adjusting the spring height. It might be "out of spec" from what KW recommends but that recommendation is based on the OEM top hat. Aftermarket top hats might sit further in the strut tower. At least that's what KW told me. Start at the max recommend height then go up by 2-3 spins at a time. That's how I did it when I got the swift springs. The video below might be more helpful. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-5GUSlvSTn0Q.html
If you use o2 spacers in your next vid can you show us which ones to buy? Thanks I’ve got my down pipe otw and i wanna see how ima get rid of the engine light
Temperature is just the colour. If you take a look at a colour spectrum in temperature, you'll see that around the 2000K is yellow, about 4000K is white with yellow "feel", around 5000K is where most standard HIDs live with the "pure white" colour, 6000K has a slight blue tint, 8000K has a significant blue colour, 10000K is really blue with a subtle hint of purple, and 12000K is purple. Different colours are easier or harder to see to the human eye, for example blue is not an easy colour for our eyes to see, so the same lumens between white and blue, you'll see white much better.
