A place to offer education and advise about the technical aspects of hifi stereo and home theatre. This is just starting out, so be patient as the technical quality of the videos hopefully improve. Thanks for checking this channel out.
Best midwoofers - are those that are easy to work with and simple to filter. Usually these are speakers with a descending frequency response, without any emissions at the end of the frequency response (in the form of a “shepherd’s stand” or mountain like most SB, which require high-order filters and the use of notch chains).
That Visa 25mm ring tweeter is a good one. Many years ago I built a two wat with the Skaanings 5” and and a Dyaudio Esotec tweeter. One of the tweeters got wrecked by a hockey stick( don’t ask) and I decided to use the Vifa ring radiator as a drop in. It was cheap and had similar specs. I actually preferred the sound to the Esotec.
You need active electronic crossovers that you can actually regulate continuously until you balance everything out , Rane and dbx work well. I don't waste time and money with passive anymore.
Can diffraction be reduced by A. sticking a sponge material around the speaker on the baffle at say 2" away, using the self stick door draft excluder type that about 1/4" square. B. Routing a dado channel in the baffle around the speaker at say 2" away and gluing in a strip of sound deadener. C. Using a dado channel as at B instead of sound absorbing material, put in a circle of hard wood or plastic that is rounded over with a slight protrusion and polished or natural, like a speed hump for soundwaves. But the height above the baffle may need tuning depending on frequency, irrespective of height it might be worth a try.
Hiquphon OW1 easily. The RS28F is very smooth, but maybe not for older ears. SB29 and XT25,wonderful. I’ve yet to use a SCAN or Seas tweeter that I like.
I have a custom cable that goes from speakon to Jack. I want to run this power amp to a load box then using the line out of the load box for entering into a cabinet simulator. May work right? Using just one channel in mono. Guitar guy here...
A guitar is a terrible instrument to demonstrate this. You cannot tune a guitar perfectly. Studio musicians tune their guitar to where on the neck most of the playing will be done (5th or maybe 12th fret)
It’s just a demonstration to show what distortion is and how they affect he quality of sound. I didn’t have a piano or something else to show. Hope you feel better.
Do you know of a source for a very basic learning tutorial for Xsim? I know that is not what you intended on this video. I mean very beginner basic. I wanted to start making my own speakers, but I see now how I can't just use calculators online and expect good results. Thanks.
I think you’ll need to learn from many sources. My videos are a bit technical and advanced, but they might help give you some ideas. There are some good forums to read, such as the parts express tech talk. Use google too. Videos aren’t a great format to learn speaker design. Unfortunately text might be easier.
You keep making the same comment, but what’s the point of listening to a driver without a XO recorded by a microphone, compressed by RU-vid, the reproduced by your speakers. It’s pointless.
Hope you are still around. LOL. So, I guess I didn't get how adjusting the values in a 2nd order xover at 2K in a two-way design has an effect on baffle step loss in the 150-500hz range.
I’m still around. Just no time to do projects, which is how I do videos. If you play around in a XO simulator you’ll see how adjusting the values will fix baffle step. No good speaker designer will use an actual baffle step compensation filter.
A plastic membrane compression driver is not a tweeter. You need at least a titan. It’s easy to determine which type by FR: a plastic has that remarkable falling deep from 8kHz to 15kHz and then a rocket jump to 18-20kHz. Independently of a manufacturer. All you can make with them is to use a sophisticated crossover to make it flat in a range of 3-5kHz up to 20kHz with a 90dB sensitivity. But the next question then is why a h do you use a compression driver for that if you can take a trivial dome tweeter??
CDs are way more sensitive than a dome tweeter, which adds to dynamics and allows for higher realistic SPL and lower distortion. Also the waveguide provides better directivity.
@@ImpulseAudioSpeakers A waveguide can be used also with a dome tweeter. However I told about a resulting sensitivity after a crossover that fixes the 8-20kHz issue. They are the same. About 90dB. Fortunately we have titanium/beryllium/carbon membranes. Some of them are pretty affordable. A compression driver worth all of these efforts, you are right. A proper one -)
Someone told me that by using home audio drivers in car audio environment you may ruin them because they are meant to be played at home, so their surround may degrade
@@PrabhjotSingh1 nothing supports that claim. Car audio drivers might prioritize other features like power handling. But home audio drivers are perfectly fine in a car.
...Gee, I guess J.B.L. got it ALL WRONG !!! Somebody PLEASE go look at vintage J.B.L. L100's, L88's, (both Nova and Cortina). And... almost ALL the other J.B.L. lines from the '70s and early '80s. Only the most highly sought after speakers OF ALL TIME. I understand that the oscilloscope does not lie, but...
Think they’ve gone a different way? Think maybe they were able to measure and make the proper adjustments? The point of the video was don’t do it unless you can measure and see what changed.
Ever used the sb29rdc-c000-4? Yea thos beryllium are so nice. Gotta watch out for the fakes and alloys cones that arent pure. But they are amazing. Ive heard some.
Have you ever used the Peerless by Tymphany NE25VTS-04 1" Silk Dome Tweeter. Soumds really good and can take alot of power. Crossed at 2k easily 100w rms. Specs are 80w.
For me the difference is obvious. The fouth test i could tell even before i heard the song for the second time, that its without the inductor. And i dudnt know how this inductor was connected because i didnt look at the schematic, but i heard a definite pattern of higher highs and lower highs in the different versions. But it makes sence with the inductors the highs are lower. I liked the version without the coil better. I think it is more important to balance the sound eather that how you made the schematic. In this case you dont need the coil because the highs are fine. But this has to be heard at the room to be certain, as in the room the hoghs might be too loud. I also made alot of these tests recently, and sometimes when you do too much of it, you start to loose track of what you have to listen to. Its like your brain says, just stop with these tests, its irritating and it all sound the same. But take a day to rest your ears and you will hear the difference more clearly
I wanted to hear the signature sound of these speakers. Some mids sound like scratchy cardboard and not enough flex to hit a beautiful punchy midbass. Hope you know what I mean. Sorry just learning looking for a good sounding midrange speaker.
Sound demos aren’t really worth anything on RU-vid. So many factors from your speakers, RU-vid compression, my mic, etc. Also, the driver needs to be implemented in a speaker to know how it sounds.
140 degrees out of phase eh? Why not just invert the tweeter? 🤔Since it's free and quick, why just choose 1.5k and call it a day when the DSP offers virtually unlimited tweaking?
Inverting the tweeter means they’re 40 degrees out of phase. Also, the point of the video was that these things don’t automatically work. You need to measure and design just like a passive XO.