I am a Designer, Inventor and Woodworker. I make jigs, tools and various inventions for extending the functionality of power tools and hand tools in the wood shop.
A lot of what I do lends itself to helping other woodworkers become more proficient at joinery. One might say, I provide joinery to the people. My techniques and jigs are meant to be user-friendly, making woodworking fun for almost anyone. Using many common tools, and a few specialized tools, I demonstrate how a humble, one car garage can be a dream workshop.
DISCLAIMER: My videos are here as an inspiration and to share some of my ideas. Do not attempt to do what I do in my videos. Woodworking and Metal working are dangerous activities. Ensure you have undergone training by a certified instructor before attempting any and all woodworking or metal working operations.
Like all your videos great job, I will be copying this with one exception I will make wooden handles not plastic yuk 😂 keep em coming, by the way I’m 81 years old so hurry and make more stuff all the best 🥸
You mentioned using 'used' silica dry packs in tool drawer etc. to keep moisture down. I get them with some of my meds and just like you I put them in drawers/cabinets with tools. How or can one determine if they're still good?
If they have absorbed the max moisture, they should feel heavier, almost like a beanbag. They can be dried out again if placed near a dehumidifier. For packing in ziploc bags, they will probably not get maxed out provided the bag stays sealed and the air has been purged.
Hi, nice video, thanks for sharing. I just bought the RT0700C and was looking online for advice videos and how to use it stuff. Eventually I plan to make my own mini table too. What I wanted to say is that during the video I was amazed by the number of tools used, seems like a really cool and well equipped workshop, almost off-putting: at one point I was even thinking what am I even doing with just one little handheld router/trimmer! But I actually realised that most of the tasks you could do with just this compact router (and a drill, of course) and your comment at the end, that '...you may be just starting off with just this router is perfectly fine...' - it was cool, really cool. Thanks!
Hi Eric, just a comment. The makers of Starbond say that you should store unopened bottles of CA glue in the fridge but not open bottles as open bottles will absorb moisture out of the fridge interior.
I don't know about that specific brand/ formula, but my Gorilla CA glue is holding up really well in the refrigerator - having been open for more than a month. I think if you're worried about moisture, I would put in a ziploc bag and seal it with some dry packs. The cool temp will keep the glue from solidifying.
Hi Eric - thank you for your videos. I really appreciate them and I learn a lot. I am interested in using a 7 1/4 blade as well. In your video about riving knives about a year ago you measured the blade thickness for the Diablo 7 1/4 at 1.37mm and in this video you measured 1.7mm. Was it a different type Diablo blade or some other difference? The reason I ask is that I can't find a splitter thin enough to work with my table saw using the 7 1/4 inch Diablo blade. I've looked at the MicroJig thin kerf splitter but their specs say the minimum kerf should be .09 inches or 2.29 mm which would still be too thick for the 7 1/4 inch blade. Thanks!
Thanks Blair! You probably won't find much out there at that size. This is why I bought the Dewalt 8-1/4" Compact Table saw. You can see what I did on a recent video where I got the 7-1/4" blade working with my new riving knife: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-A7Mrw_ApYtY.html
@@EricSorensenCanada Thank you. Yeah I guess if using the 7 1/4 blade I'll just have to live without the splitter or come up with my own home-made splitter. Too bad because using the 7 1/4 inch blade looks to have so many nice advantages.
On the contact adhesive in the caulk tube type tubes. You can actually take a piece of packing tape and wrap the end of it with packing tape to seal it and it'll last considerably longer that way than if you don't close the end of it at all. Just something I've found that works pretty well.
Great tips! Saving money on glue helps buy more expensive lumper for projects! Keep up the great work as the goal is for us to continue to inspire others to build something awesome! 👍🏼
Thank you for your tips. Especially the ones for the CA glue and PU glue storage. We don't experience winter where I live (I have never seen snow except on TV or in photos), so I don't have to worry about my glue freezing, but we have a lot of humidity even when it's sunny. During the rainy season it can be so bad, that leather shoes develop a thin layer of mold, and of course unprotected cast iron and steel will develop rust. Smaller silica gel packets also come in shoe and handbag packaging, and I have always kept them for the same purpose. 😊😊
Fantastic tips, Eric! Thanks a lot! 😃 About airplanes, I build them with hot glue and foam board... But rc airplanes, of course. 😬 Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thanks for your tribute to Bob Chase, which introduced me to his channel. It was refreshing to see a real master woodworker using a contractor's table saw, router table made with plywood and a 4x4 for the fence and spring clamps with the vinyl pads missing. His practical tips, simple jigs and wealth of knowledge will certainly help me become a better woodworker with my budget-minded workshop. I also hope they keep the channel up so I can continue referring to his videos. You also seem to subscribe to Bob's practical and affordable woodworking through your videos and I thank you for that. Keep up the good work.
The trick is to not apply that much pressure. Instead, use the appropriate grit for the work you're doing. Otherwise, my drill press handles it just fine. No damage, no issues.
Nice, simple, and easy to make - and best of all, effective! Thanks for posting this. If you want the dowels to be visible on the edge of the one piece as an accent, like walnut dowels in cherry, then you could square up the joint and glue it together. Once the glue is dry, drill the hole through the one piece into the next over a predetermined depth, then drive the glued dowel flush into the hole. Voila, dowel joint with an accent.
I have this table saw and love it BUT for the life of me struggling to find any decent blades for it cross and long. Are you still using the original blade?
The 8-1/4" blades are a little harder to find sometimes. I still have the factory blade but I was also able to use a 7-1/4" blade in mine: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-A7Mrw_ApYtY.html
I bought this last year but just getting a chance to put it together now. The instructions mentioned an anti-kickback item - but I did not find it included. Did you receive one?
At the front of the saw, just below where the wrenches attach, and right by the motor, you will see the Anti-Kickback Pawls. They look like little black claws. They are hard to spot at first. They attach to your rip guard assembly.
Awesome review I have a koblat saw with built in stand it’s just to big to lug around to job site for day jobs saw I scooped this one up. Best I saw was 279 in 2019 should have bought it. Lol. Depot just put it $299 with stand scoop it up.
At the price of wood right now a man could just about purchase a store bought T track fence. A 3/4 sheet of birch plywood in my area is over $70 right now.
Yes, I saw a T-track Fence on Amazon yesterday for $67. My fence is made of scrap bin plywood. I would never buy a whole sheet to make a jig. Nowadays, you have to compare and go with what makes sense. You might start seeing a few welding videos from me soon🙃
I don't. The blades I buy are between $7 - $10 a piece. At that price, it's not worth the gas to drive to a place that would sharpen them for me. I do keep the old blades however, because I am a pack rat and I will use them for small metal working projects.
Great idea and although not really necessary a second feather board on the outside feed of the blade would make it even better. And if a feather board is not available you can use a thin block of wood clamped to the fence which would serve the same purpose. Great video and very informative.
Thanks for the info on router bits. I have a question about router plunge bases. I know you have a Makita trim router but have not seen you use it with a plunge base. I am considering buying the Makita RS0701 router with a plunge base. I saw the plunge base but the depth adjustments seen a little awkward or different when I see other brands. Do you have experience with this base? Is it easy or not so much to use and make fine adjustments?
I would consider going with the the Dewalt compact router instead, with the DNP612 plunge base. I have the full sized Dewalt router and plunge base now, and I like it better than the Makita. When it's time to buy a new trim router, I'll probably go with the Dewalt. The Makita works well, but the bits tend to slip in the collet from time to time, which is pretty frustrating.
thanks for your video. I use a spade bit to make kids chairs and im having trouble consistently producing back supports to leg joints because i've not used any jig, i think i need a custom jig. I use a spade bit, am i doing it wrong?
Get yourself a Forstner bit instead. It's like a whole new world. You'll never use spade bits again after that.🙂. Then, you could try making a pattern template out of thick plywood, so you can get your holes to line up consistently on each chair.
Well, i've just finished making some wooden bar clamps and just came across this one today. No harm in making some of these. Great idea and video. Cheers
