There isn't a paint code for Porsche's Brewster Green. The match my paint guy found was Jaguar 701. I think he tinted it a bit darker but 701 is a very close match.
I watched all the videos, and I have to say that you worked very hard, but you know it best...the question is, did you repeat it? ...and now I'm wondering what the price of this car would be, you said somewhere that you might sell it if you find another one ... greetings from Croatia
Glad you enjoyed the videos! I did sell the car for $30K which is about the cost of the parts and materials for the restoration. Thus proving once again... there's no money to be made in most restorations! I'm currently working on a 1913 Metz Model 22 Roadster and the next project after that will be a 1954 Nash Healey.
Man I have the exact same mill! I got very lucky as mine has a full set of collets (some doubles)! The Overarm support, 2 of the bars for horizontal milling (Diff Sizes) and a crap ton of spacers for them. Main reason for the comment is I have some extra collets I may be convinced to let go of if you are interested. They are getting very hard to find these days...
That's awesome! This mill has been fantastic for me. The collets it came with have been good so far, in addition I found a guy on eBay that is making arbors for them so I picked up on of those. Let me know what you have, I'm always looking!
March 2024 and I'm about to get my 1952 MG TD which, I suspect, will need much of what I'm seeing here. You have done a marvelous job of documenting the journey and I'm already feeling easier about what lies in front of me. Thanks for the hard work (probably frustrating too!) you've put into this. I'm going to jump to the end now to see how you made out.
Awesome! While I had to learn to do most everything I did, I had a great time doing it and I was thrilled with the results. I'd do it again in a heartbeat! Good luck in your restoration!
Thanks. Glad I found this. The double-set screw on the fence handle (at around 6 minutes) really threw me. I was considering a pipe-wrench late last night, but I'm glad I waited!
I had been using shoe covers so as not to track stuff into the booth and potentially into the paint on the car. I had run out and still needed to get the base coat on so I thought "why not". There's a lot of air movement in the booth so I didn't really get anything on my feet. Note that the paint suit is as much (or maybe more) to keep fibers and such from your clothes from getting into the paint as it is keeping the paint off you.
My saw is the same as yours. To cover the belt there is a cast part that fits on the big "peg" and has a long bolt that goes into the threaded hole to the right of the peg. I am in the middle of my restoration and your video has been super helpful!
Thanks for the heads up!! If I had a bigger shop I might be interested in a bigger unit. I've seen the ones that include the base and they look awesome. I will say the "little" one I have does a great job. I've cut a lot of 4140 (pre-hard) and it doesn't have any issue with it at all.
The person I bought it from never used it. The person he bought it from didn't use it much. I don't know the history before 1950. The friction wheel that sits between the two pulleys shows very little wear.
Looking at the video i see that you made some extensions on top of pedal, they are not original. The TD is a royal pain to operate the pedals Clutch Brake in particular. It is really tight down in the hole where the pedals are. I usually wear CROCS all day but i have to change shoes just to drive my TD. To my question, Why did you ad those extensions, does it help to reach the pedals? By the way nice work you do, keep going.
The brake and clutch pedals are how they were when I got the car. The parts car was the same way. I believe the piece you're referring to is on the Moss Motors exploded diagram for the brakes as part 44a (part 58 for the clutch) as "Pedal Pad Extender". I assumed these were original as the other TDs I've seen also had them. I might have a set from the parts car if you're interested.
Perhaps you can tell me how you removed the pulley bearings. I have a bench top model of this that I just purchased, the manual makes it sound easy to remove them but I'm not finding that to be the case. I may be looking at putting together some kind of special puller..... thanks
I don't quite remember how I did that. If you watch part 2 where I press the bearings back in it might help make more sense. It appears that I removed the spindle and then pressed the bearings out. To put them back in I was using a hole saw that was the right diameter to press on the outer edge of the bearing. My guess is that I took the head off the post, flipped it upside down and pressed the bearing out just like I pressed them in. Again... see Part 2. I vaguely remember that the top pulley bearing has to be pressed up as it sits on a shoulder.
Actually, that's helpful. I'm sure I can figure something out. Nice drill press, hopefully mine should turn out pretty nice as well. It was originally a bench mount, the complete head moves up and down on the column with a cranked reduction gear, it is pretty cool. Thanks!! @@therestorationshop
Thought I'd post in case someone is having similar difficulty getting the pulley bearings out. I ended up assembling an auto bearing removal cup on the top, used a piece of 5/8-18 x 12" threaded rod and some nuts to pull on the pulley shaft (brass washer on the bottom so as to not damage the pulley shaft). Socket wrench (15/16) on the bottom with an extension to reach the end of the threaded rod, a wrench on the top. The bearings and shaft were really stuck on there. I had to crank the heck out of the nuts, alternately hammered some from underneath using a brass rod. Took quite a while but eventually everything came apart. Putting it back together will be a piece of cake.
I've seen that and it is a great resource. Keith isn't that far away from me either. I think I have the planer operational and hopefully will have a video of it making some chip fairly soon.
The British members of the Riley club use a tacky roofing tape to fit between the wooden gaps you scratch your head about. Surely reduces wood frame sqeak later down the road... like your hard work. I realze you´re long done with this car but your queeries seem so sincere I thought I´d share what I learned from the Riley Club in the UK, where our RMs have the exact same issues with wooden frames. I remember the club recommended not to drill through the A pillars to mount the back of the chrome strip onto the side of the front hood... seems to unnecessarily weaken the A pillar. Better to glue also with a modern tacky product to leave the A pillar unmolested at full strength...
Those dampers are of the Armstrong-Siddley type and were made by Luvax-Girling: complicated and a nightmare to repair and maintain. I went with a crosstube at the apex of the upward hump in the rear frame and settled for conventional telescopic shocks (in my case suitable for the rear axle of a VW Bus). This mod was okayed by my German TÜV authority since Riley declared this as an approved mod for their RMA model a year after my car was built in Abingdon in 1950. By the way, your car was was made literally accross the street in Abingdon from my car...just a bit of trivia. Good luck. Your build looks nice so far...
Great job, your milling machines turned out super, that colour blue has a vintage look about it. The tapered pin is called a podger. Podger bar or wrench/spanner. Cheers Tony
good to see someone else has one of these mills, i have one that i have set up as a tube notcher seems to work great i just have a bit of slop in the spindle. i had to go through the same process as you removing the spindle, apparently the thrust washer at the front can wear down causing the taper to seize. Ive just left mine a touch loose in the mean time. pretty awesome machines for their age though
Completely enjoying your video. I had a 53 TD but had to chose between it or paying for my senior year at Villanova. Life can be cruel at times. But now I can enjoy your work. I'm eighty and retired for 20 years. -Curt
Hey, so I finished restoring my particular one of these saws a few weeks ago and I've just been fine-tuning it ever since. There's one issue I wanted to ask about (trying to gather info from as many sources as I can), though. After just a few minutes of the saw running, oil starts to pool around the bushing where the lower plunger moves up and down. If it runs for more than 10 minutes it gets to the point where it starts running down the sides. I've made sure there's not too much oil in the crankcase but this still happens. Did you ever experience this on your saw? Any ideas on how to fix it?
@@therestorationshop No, it's not foaming. There are SOME bubbles when I look inside the crankcase after it's been running for any significant time, but it's not foaming. I've thought about letting it run like that, but I'd hate to have to clean up the huge mess. Plus, I've seen it happen a dozen times or so, wiped up the oil, and the issue doesn't disappear completely. Part of me thinks there's still maybe a TAD too much oil in there, but I think it'd be weird if I had to be THAT precise with the oil level to prevent this from happening. The bushing looks fine, though, so I don't see any other reason this would be happening. Weird. ------ Also, as a side note, I figured something about about leaks from the sides of the crankcase: I was experiencing that as well but I fixed it. I put new gaskets on but I was VERY precise about the placement of the holes, as the first new gasket I put on one side ended up crimping underneath the cover due to the screws pulling at the material on one side of the hole, and that allowed significant oil to weep through. Beyond this, I noticed that the four points on the cover where the screws go in (especially on the cover housing the drive shaft) can become warped due to the tension from the screws over time, and this creates convex surfaces on the inside lip of the cover's edge. That was happening with that cover on mine as well, but after I rubbed it up against some sandpaper for a bit (with that sandpaper facing up on a flat surface), no more leakage from the sides of the crankcase! Not sure if your saw's crankcase experienced those earlier leaks due to this or not, but at the very least it was one of those "lightbulb above the head turning on" kind of experiences for me!
@@therestorationshop So an update...I took the plunge (pun intended, haha) and replaced the plunger bearing and then went with a different oil that I KNOW is detergent free based on what it says on the container. I believe the other oil I used wasn't detergent free after all and hastened the wear and tear on the old bushing. However, it's still leaking oil. It's not coming from the bushing, though...it's coming from the slotted screw hole at the top of the plunger and from between the top of the plunger and the chuck. At first I had no idea how this was possible but upon further searching I believe I found the issue: There's supposed to be a cork plug in the tube, and I think I removed that during the initial cleanup of the machine. It's late now so I'll be taking care of that tomorrow. Now it's just that and waiting for another replacement motor pulley to arrive (as the first new one I bought is warped)! Then this saw will TRULY be completely restored!
@@GamingDrummer89 Yes, there is a cork in there. I didn't think about that until you mentioned it was coming out of the screw hole. Congrats on a great job!
@@therestorationshop Thanks! Got the cork (actually, I put TWO just to be safe) in, and it's no longer leaking out the holes, even after 15 minutes of letting the saw run. However, it's STILL seeping out of one side of the bushing, even though that bushing is brand new! Upon closer inspection the oil is only building up on that particular side of the plunger rod, and the gap between that and the bushing on that side looks to be a thousandth or two too big. Is it practical to try and "stretch" the diameter of the rod a couple thousandths? I'm gonna start looking up how to do that cause there's no way the brand new bushing is out of round.
Hello Sir, I’m following your videos for some time now and they are very helpful. In this video you mention ‘bending the hinge’. My question is: how did you do that? I’m worrying that it wil tear.
Heat. I used a torch to get the hinge hot so that it was easy to bend while making sure to let it cool slowly. If you try to cool it down quickly it can harden the metal and make it brittle.
I just bought a 1951 MG TD the car of always wanted the small project but I noticed floorboards which have been replaced there's a space between the board and the car all the way around the edge is there supposed to be one there or were these done incorrectly can anybody tell me I would really appreciate it
For your battery case cover, it exists in marine plastic panels that are developped to be worked with standard woodworking tools, this is called Kingstarboard, it is available in many color and thicknesses and the surface finish is granulated so it makes perfect panels for jobs that asks for a finisned patina. Very good job on that car
I just bought a very rusty but still operational one of these today for $40. Saw it on Craigslist less than 30 miles from me and I figured it'd be the perfect place to start practicing restoring these vintage tools. Thanks for making this! It'll be helpful as I do my restoration, especially since mine is from the same era (1953 according to the Serial Number).
@@therestorationshop Thanks! Already got much of the rust off and started taking it apart today! A couple questions, though...how'd you get the top blade holder off the plunger? I've unscrewed it and everything but it's still on there good, so I can't get the plunger out. Also, how do you get the pulley off of the crank shaft? Unscrewed both set screws but it's still on there good. What kind of oil did you use (in that orange can)? I think I'll need some of that. I just don't want to accidentally break anything.
@@GamingDrummer89 The blade holders have two tapered wedges. Around the 22:00 mark in the video you can see what they look like. Tap the holders up, to the side, down and stand on your head and you should be able to get it loose and off. The orange can is Kroil and I think it is fantastic. You can get it on Amazon, just make sure to get the liquid. The spray works but is more expensive. I usually apply some Kroil to the stuck parts, get them very hot with a torch until I can see the Kroil boiling out and then add more Kroil. That usually works. With stuck parts you're breaking the rust apart so little movements back and forth works best. If all the set screws are out (and watch for the set screw holding a set screw) then a little Kroil in the set screw holes, some heat to the pulley and use a wheel/gear puller to get the pulley off. Autozone and other parts stores will loan one if you don't have one. Many years ago I made a habit of buying every wheel/gear puller I saw at flea markets and such. I ended up with a nice collection and they really come in handy.
@@therestorationshop So I got some penetrating oil and a gear puller...gear puller didn't fit the pulley but the oil on its own did the job (pulley basically flew off just by pulling it by hand after letting it sit with oil overnight, haha). I even got the whole bottom blade holder assembly off and out. Still oil in the crankcase, but I'll need to replace that I'm sure. As far as the upper holder, I tried messing with the wedges but I'm still not totally understanding. How do you tap them to the side and down when they're up inside there? Or did you mean I'm supposed to use a hammer to tap the outer part? Sorry for all the questions but I just don't want to break anything by accident.
@@GamingDrummer89 Looking at the upper holder from the front there is a thumb screw on the right. Remove it and the right wedge should fall out. There is another small screw on the left. Remove it and the left wedge should come out. If you have both screws removed and the wedges don't come out you can use a small screwdriver and hammer to try and tap them out. You can also you the hammer to tap the holder down and off the shaft. Just make sure you have *both* screws out.
Thank you so very much for posting this. I have a Whitney #6 which looks nearly identical. My machine was originally a belt driven machine, but was updated to an electrical motor at some point. It also came with some sort of home brew or aftermarket vertical head that mounts in the overarm support. It is a tool room model with x and y screws, not the feed lever. Unfortunately, the spindle was missing. This video is the first tear down I’ve seen which shows spindle details on anything similar to my mill. So thank you. My mill appears to have a single large tapered bronze bushing. The large side of the taper is on the table side. The opposing side is actually a blind machined hole in the head. I guess I’ll have to try and press this bushing out towards the table side. And then find (or make) a spindle. Have you found any old parts diagrams or technical details on this (or similar) horizontals?
Unfortunately I never found anything on the mill. If you haven't already, try searching on Practical Machinist forums. The Antique forum www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/categories/antique-machinery-and-history.19/ has a bunch of helpful people. If you don't find anything you should post some pictures there and someone might be able to help you.
Nice car, I am working on my own 1953 MG TD. I have been looking for someone to help me with mine. Look at pic's and answer some questions on how these cars are put together. Is that something that you would be willing to do? I do not want to farm any work out to someone else.
RU-vid has made communication pretty difficult lately. The best place to get help and learn a lot is www.mgexp.com/forum/t-series-and-prewar-forum.46 That forum is full of super experienced and helpful members.
Are you sure that is a 6" jointer? It looks identical to the 4" (cabinet jointer) Rockwell I have from my dad dating to the 1960s. I'm in the middle of rebuilding a base for it and will touchup and repaint the jointer soon. Mechanically, it is in perfect condition and still has it's 1/4 HP GE motor. Seems to be strong enough for it.
Looking great! I just picked up an old buffalo 18 as well, but I can't seem to get the spindle pulley off, I've tried going at it from both direction but am not getting either bearing to clear the side to where I could use a puller - any tips you could offer?
