Just got a 2022 Khaos that has the Mohawk skis. I came off an Axys Pro with stock skis. Only got one ride in decent spring snow with the new sled. The tipping point/balance point seems different. I don't know if it is the skis or the Matryx Chassis/Khaos that is different. Did you notice a new balance point when on an edge with these skis?
I installed the anti-stab kit and it started to chew the edge of the track windows. I cut quite a bit of it so zero chance of catching. Saw that the hi fax was catching so i trimmed the outer to a smoother edge. Did you see any wear on the edge of the track windows
No I did not see any wear. There should be almost no chance of it wearing as it should "roll" right around the tips as long as it doesn't have any material sticking past the wheels. I would double check that and then double check the rear of your rails to make sure the aren't too close to your track back there.
I didn't say to put a foot in it. I said on it which is a big difference. If you don't stop it somehow whether it's with your foot or setting it on the ground I have found from experience that your belt can still be too tight and cause it to squeal at idle when there's resistance. It won't be enough to burn the belt but it's a hug annoyance of mine. As the video states it's tips and tricks. Not must do and must not do. People can take it for what it's worth. It's what I do to get my machine set correctly. Thanks for advice 👍
I'm not sure on this. We don't have much for trail sleds in my area. Typically the taller the center of gravity is better for mountain sleds to help reduce drag in the snow and make it tipper which I would think would be the opposite of what you'd want for a trail sled.
Has anyone tried these spindles on a 2023 Lynx Shredder w/ the ZRP 34" Billet A-Arm kit? Do they give you your full turning radius back? Does it help the sled to track straight on a sidehill instead of wanting to dive straight down or straight up the hill?
I havent as I primarily ride polaris. I found with the sled I ran them on it helped improve the handling significantly but didn't eliminate that issue completely. The sled was much more predictable but still wanted to dive on a sidehill. Countertsteer on a skidoo is your best friend to track a decent sidehill rather than it wanting to throw you down or dive in to the side.
If you are going to buy new fox shocks then I would just get some khaos ones. Otherwise any will do as long as they're coil overs. From what I've heard the air shocks can't be lengthened nearly as easy or cost effective. I really like the qs3 coil overs with the lockout on this setup.
Yes you can out those on and do the other things in the video. My intention with the video was to show you could convert for cheap. The velocity shocks aren't typically cheap which is why I didn't include them.
I have a stock 2018 Polaris 600 with a 155 track. Struggles with breaking the track loose to do a power turn. Would going with a TKI 2.2 ratio help to spin the track for power turns?
What small issues has there been with 850 E-Tec? Which shocks are you talking about adjusting and what adjustment is needed? Have you since done the T-Motion lockout with the spindles?
I was just more or less referring to the etec motor in general has had very few motors go down from what I've seen. Every motor has issues but the etec 850 has been pretty bulletproof over the years. You see them toast the mag side lower rod bearing or a top end go out here or there but not very often. That's basically all I was meaning. Nothing real specific but every once in a while you hear an issue. Shocks I really didn't have much adjustment at all where these were the standard shocks but I didn't mess with my springs or anything after I out the spindles on where I really probably should have. Where it puts you higher in the front it put more pressure/less pressure or preload on the different shocks and I probably could have gotten a better handling feel if I would've played with it a little more. I have since sold the sled and never got to do the lockout or the z motion. I do have a zmotion but no sled to put it on lol.
I can't say for sure but you should be able to check but checking the clearinance in the top of your tunnel and in the front of the tunnel. For example, If you have a 2 inch track already and have 1.5 inches of clearance then you'd be good. Your track will have some flex to it as it turns so you want to take that into consideration when measuring because you will need extra space above it. Also a 2.86 track usually has 7 tooth drivers. I would see how many tooth drivers you have right now and make sure 7 tooth would fit but I believe you may have 8 tooth? You can use different driver tooth numbers but then you'll have to play with gearing more.
I dont. For the standard gauge it's about as simple and straight forward as it gets. For the 7s display it does take a bit more but I found the instructions easy enough to follow.
The stock setup was qd1 on this sled. I went to qd2 with the tki which is geared quite a bit lower. I had a 2.6 155 track. It gave me instant bottom end on the ground to make hoppers and bowties easier. Loved the setup!
@@lifestylepowersportspartsa4587 ok great thanks, I’ve got a 165 with qd2 I was thinking of going with a 3” track and gearing down. Maybe I’ll just stick with stock gearing then
@@RegularSleddingI had a matryx 3 inch 155 last year with the stock qd2 setup. It was killer! I would clutch before I geared lower on that sled because she was a ripper!
If you watch the video it shows the difference between the pro and khaos skid angles. Hence the reason for the anti stab kit. It's close enough where the anti stab kit goes that although it may not be perfect khaos it will put you pretty darn close and that last tiny bit you will not notice.
I think hands down the TKI is the best. Cheaper belts, only system to have the tensioner for more belt engagement and the ONLY kit that has many top gear tooth available. Now if you have an QD1 or QD2 system no need to upgrade UNLESS you want to gear down or up. I have 23 boost 155 and 23 9r 146 that I am building. I will most likely be setting both up with the TKI setup. The boost for sure. However I think I’m going to take the QD2 from my boost and put it on the 9r 146 since the 146 track comes with QD2. My only issue is I’m not sure what tooth setup I want to run with the boost yet thinking 30T which will gear up the boost.
I also have a 9r 146 but it comes with the qd1 and not the qd2. I have the tki with qd2 gearing on it now. I may switch back to the qd1 to feel the difference once I get it clutched and now that it's out of break in. Qd2 is fun on it but the 9r bottom end and the short track allow pretty quick track speed off the line so I think now that it's broke in the top end would be nicer to have.
So if I’m understanding this correctly. All you did was buy that plug and then splice the two wires you needed to the red black on the pod light. Then it’s basically plug and play in the wiring harness?
What would be the purpose of putting in the secondary separator tool while adjusting your belt deflection? I've done this adjustment many times but never would install the clutch separator tool.
It's definitely not necessary and for fine tuning the adjustmen it works better if you don't use the tool. I put it in the video that way because it eliminates the possibility of a noob stripping or breaking anything. It's really the safest option for that but again definitely not necessary. The way you do it is the way I do it a majority of time.
@@lifestylepowersportspartsa4587 I see! Takes some stress off the Allen while u make an adjustment so you don't strip it. Gotcha. Nice video. Crazy how much the dealer doesn't do on such an expensive machine!
I followed the video and put in the exact same parts minus the fox shock, now it sure seems that even with the ice age anti stab kit the rails are extremely close to hooking the windows in the track was yours the same?
If you trimmed down the tips of the rails correctly there isn't any way at all for the rails to spear the track. The anti stab kit will hold the track away and force the track to roll around the ends of the rails with pretty much 0% chance of catching.
How did this tunnel work out for you and what were temp differences on your sled. Planning on putting one on my new 2023 Polaris Matryx RMK Pro 850 sled when it arrives…….
The matryx is a different tunnel than the axys. If your sled is a slash then it's already cut 8 inches shorter than a stock axys. Plus the matryx doesn't have a cooler at the back of the sled so cutting it is super easy and doesn't require buying anything but rivets. Temps were higher but did fine in the middle of winter conditions. Early season or late season conditions are where I had a harder time keeping it cool so I went with the 3 ft Tunnel cooler from mtntk and problem solved.
2022+ Pro RMK 165” already have an anti stab kit from factory. Also 2022+ Pro RMK 165” lots of fts are already 12” long c-c. Which is the same as the Khaos… so all you need is a limiter strap from a Khaos if you have a 165 with a fts measuring 12”
Yes 155 and 165 with the 3.5 pitch tracks (not sure on the 3.0 pitch but my guess would be no) do have a factory anti stab kit. I don't know on the pro shock length myself and can't verify but that would be interesting. I did the footage for this video prior to the release of the matryx platform so it may not be completely up to date with the current. Appreciate the info though!
bought a mtntek because it looks like the fastest and easiest at the moment since they're grooming now and in a hurry. plan on building my own bumper using part of an aftermarket bumper. the glued plastic kit made me a little nervious compared to welded aluminum.
I used my original cooler and thats how they generall recommend. My advice if you don't plan to use the original cooler is to get the 5 ft cooler from mtntk. I don't think the 3 ft would be quite enough in certain snow conditions and I've heard of people using the 5 ft with good results.
Qd2 is polaris quick drive 2 that came out for 21. It's the ratio that the 28 tooth gear gave me with the tki setup as well. For my style of riding I was extremely happy with that ratio and didn't feel the need to go lower.
Yes you can but without putting a longer limiter strap you won't get the khaos benefit. If you lengthen the strap then I highly recommend the anti stab kit as it drops your rail tips down and increases the chance of sticking one of your rails through your track windows.
1. have you made a video on the custom seat yet? 2. can you show us how you did your tunnel cut?- did you reuse the end of you tunnel and cut a section out of the middle or did you use something like the c r racing tunnel end to reuse your original cooling system?
I apologize but I never saw this comment. I never have completed either of those videos but I really should. I've got all the footage but not compiled it yet. I did the mtntk tunnel cut kit to begin with. If you go that route I recommend an aftermarket bumper as I tweaked my tunnel waiting for my skinz bumper to show up and running the stock bumper. It caused the mtntk kit to leak. I then cut another inch off and used my stock cut section and bridged the coolers with it. If I were to do it again and for the ease of it all I would probably run the cr racing kit.
Good rule of thumb on track tension is to check the actual manufacturers sticker somewhere (usually on the left side) on the track frame and to forget these "two finger pinched measurements shenanigans". Good and informative video for any one who is buying a sled.
Haha if you say so. You're not always in a position where you can do that. I guess if you carry a tape measure and a scale with you on the mountain then ignoe it. But you best make sure not to forget one or the other because apparently it has to be exact. 👌 I'm just sharing from personal experience in the video what has worked for us in over 40 years of riding.
Great vid! I have a '17 pro and greatly increased the fun factor by lengthening the strap, stiffening the front track shock and softening the rear. Been pretty happy with it but now realize I should add an antistab kit. My question is in the suspension. The one problem I have is that I bottom out the rear suspension on even small jumps due to the rear being softened. Did you soften your rear spring? Wondering if lengthening the front track shock will allow me to stiffen the rear up and still keep my playful ski lift. Thanks
I softened the rear a little but not much. You definitely would benefit from a longer track shock but be sure to do the anti stab before as well. It will drop the front down further to begin with and give you more ski lift without compromising your preload on your shocks. I think you'll be very happy with it once you do it.
Yes this style of driver requires you to shorten the tips of your rails. Watch my video of the khaos conversion to see how I did that. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-R0-7wldH4pk.html
This setup is creating essentially the same geometry as the khaos. All the difference in the khaos rails is that the end of the rail is tipped up so they dont stab through the track window since they dropped the front of the suspension. Elevate spindles would be fine with this. I am running the skinz freeflow front end which also raises the front like the elevate spindles and have had zero issues with great handling.
Yes it is lower, shorter, and only weight a couple pounds. I actually have video on it-just need to compile it! I'll do it in the future for sure! Thanks!
The stock gripper skis are a great ski and hard to beat. I haven't ran the attack skis so I don't know about them but the Mohawks I would say are a step above the grippers. I find my sidehill more predictable with the mowhawks and going down the trail I don't dart and glides across everything in the direction I want it to go. When I steer it bites. The grippers don't steer as nicely as the Mohawks down the trail.
