I had staff working for me from Hawesworth who were told to test both the base and the kettle as two seperate test. I instantly corrected them on this and these guys were City & Guilds Trained.

Some door entry sht! Put in by a cowboy, they should be in a lockable metal cabinet, usually with a couple of Back up PSUs in, there actually designed for cabinets!

If you look inside most theatre lights there are several parts that are all isolated by powder coating and earth bonding between these sections. I test all the separate sections and often find in older lanterns that corrosion has taken its toll on the bonding wires so, whilst the section with the entry cable is OK, testing at other parts ends in a fail. I would suggest taking the powder coating off on several areas and test multiple areas. Maybe I am being a bit pedantic. It's not rocket science to replace the bonding wires and then all is good.

Bro I had one with my computer and monitor plugged in along with a phone charger it heated up really bad and starting smoking I sent it back they sent me a new one no excuses I just binned it stay away please

bought off Amazon probably. Filled with garbage from China charged at premium places by dropshippers.

Whoever did that must have cannibalised another plug and used the neutral pin off that for the line connection. I can only imagine that was done because they are drawing more that 13A, probably considerably more as fuses will take quite a bit more current than their nominal rating for some time. What is it powering?

It's another natural pin from another plugtop and just placed where the fuse carrier end would normally be... because a 13amp PT doesn't allow you to connect directly to the phase pin...

I’m a white goods repair tech and every single day work on and repair all of these items. I work on my own and am dumbfounded that you find this “impossible” in your words.

thank you very much, from a budding pat tester,

I've always visually checked the fig 8 cable but then used it to test whatever appliance its for as a class 2 so it checks both because you need to test the appliance. What's your thoughts 🤔

I've been testing lights before and forgot to point it away as it powered up. Damn nearly blinded myself XD

The microwave oven leakage test can be done.Also a temp rise over several minutes of a glass of water will tell you if the magnetron is delivering full or near full power.Check microwave for rust and if machine is ten years old or more replace the oven.

Iv failed tons of these in uni accommodation,

So what should they use? And what of 1.5mm e.g. H05RR-F 3 Core Flexible Rubber Cable ? What to use there please?

How do you get the jobs and hourly pay?

I visited my local Tesco store this morning and spotted a variety pack of 9 fuses which was part of the “Keep It Handy” range. The metal ends of all the fuses were so shiny that you could almost see your face in them! I wonder if they are genuine quality fuses?

Where did u buy this one? for the adapter?

As you know, when you purchase a 3 pin plug it has a 13 amp fuse fitted by default. Even if you need to swap it for a lower rating you end up with an abundance of 13 amp fuses lying around and hardly ever need to order any more. The down side to this is that if they get into the wrong hands they may be incorrectly used as a substitute for a blown 1,3,5 or 10 amp fuse which is of course a safety hazard.

My John Lewis Washer Dryer did this, I'm currently getting it sorted out.

I’ve had a few Chinese no brand blow-up USB chargers over the years. Wouldn’t want to use with an expensive phone/tablet!

How would you IR and earth test an IEC lead using an MFT?

You can get a cloverleaf to kettle plug adapter, then test the 3 pin to cloverleaf through your machine.

How is this allowed to happen?

thank goodness to hear someone who knows what they are doing. number of arguments I have had with our FM dept over the years that visual inspection was the only tests they could do on a 2 core plug for a laptop.

On catering Equipment it's a 2.5mm flexible cable with a 13amp plug (usually Moulded) I'm wondering What Plug Is Acceptable If Plug Requires Replacing ?

Thanks great stuff.

Brilliant video Ben. I can't find anyone else at the moment discussing the anomaly between the connector ratings given in IEC60320 and table 10.6 (code of practice book). You quite rightly point out that on page 79 it states "whilst the fuse is selected to protect the flex based on the CSA, it is the fuse recommended by the manufacturer that should be fitted". In the case of a non-rewirable 13A to C13 IEC its simple...although 10.6 recommends a 13A fuse, logic would tell you to put a 10A fuse in because of the type of kit it powers and because a C13 is intended for lower temperature /power usage). But the problem occurs on a Kettle lead / Hot lead / C15 connectors (rated to higher temperatures). These often have a 13A fuse fitted in the non-rewirable plug but a C15 IEC socket is rated to 10A...... Like yourself I would love someone to explain this discretion. Thankyou for highlighting it and offering some clear common sensical practical advice.

Too much safety is more dangerous than none at all.

You mention buying genuine fuses from B&Q, but unfortunately many years ago they unwittingly and briefly sold counterfeits and this video shows a sample being tested with scary results. The fuses weren't correctly colour coded and weren't sand-filled, hence the explosion: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-KVJVswLbqaA.html

Fake fuse? 😂😂😂😂

How is this a trade?

Perhaps these devices in non medical places should be tested, just to keep people safe. There is no chance of many of these items being tested by any one else.

Understand your point. My back ground is medical and in my world all devices are bona fida. Surprised any of these dodgy imports have any labels on them. But I suppose it gives them a medical air to charge more. Enjoy your videos

A medical device would have to be correctly labelled, with manufacturer details and the main indicator is the CE has a number under it. The number is the notified body responsible for allowing on the market. There are many things for beauty, nails, waxing that are not medical. Devices shown in video are NOT medical. They should be tested at class 1 or 2 as appropriate. Medical devices would also more likely to be in a dentist/ physio dept. Nailbars, tattoo etc would not be using medical devices.

Great advice as always. Thank you.

I find a bit of washing up liquid on the feet of white goods helps them back in place

Have you ever pat tested a sewing machine? Struggling to find any info

Thanks very much, very helpful

I had hoped to see some reference to PAT testing rather than 6 minutes of how to fondle the cables

Thanks Ben

Thankyou for the video.. Am I right in thinking that any reading less than 20megs would be a fail, or is there another threshold to use.. Thank you.

Your experience here, similar to what I have also had, is what makes me highly suspicious of PAT test companies who advertise a flat rate per item. The sort of prices they claim would no way be enough to cover a proper test of things like this. I used to base charges on an hourly rate so that the job could be done properly without skimping.

Really useful, thanks. Do you have any issues with the earth resistance of the short IEC cable that's normally required to test an extension cable? My UNI-T UT528 can null out the resistance of the earth probe, but that doesn't work for the IEC cable. And that resistance is significant - about 0.15 Ω, probably because the contacts in the IEC plug have oxidised and it's hard to clean them. So even a short extension lead tends to fail the earth bond test. The UT528 has a "long lead" setting, but to get the true resistance of the extension lead I still have to subtract 0.15 Ω, which is a bit clunky. Do other machines handle that better?

The term "medical device" is highly specific and regulated, with all sorts of rules on type approval, labelling and so on. So if something is not labelled as a medical device, then it isn't one - at least not in the sense that it's legal to sell, import or use, and assuming it's doing a job that calls for a proper approved medical device. With that in mind I'd suggest PAT testing it as just another Class I or Class II item. You could record your suspicions that it isn't approved for the job it's doing - I'd expect that ultrasound machine to need to be an approved MD, for instance. But that's a difficult call. I should add that I have zero PAT testing experience, though I've watched many of your excellent videos and am learning fast. But I've been paid to write training material on the very stringent rules for approval of medical devices :-)

Odd one. Would you not reject the device as it contains no electrical information on it? It might function yes but does it comply with the electrical requirements?

Now then, isn’t that ext lead a fail? ‘Gap’ between cpc/earth to small?

I don’t understand this video. Either u test it or u don’t. Surely the In service inspection and testing or electrical equipment states all appliances should be tested.

Thanks

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