restoration.bike was started as a pet project by me. The first post on restoration.bike was published on June 8th 2020, but has steadily grown to include over a hundred articles in categories ranging from articles on bike restoration and repair, to product reviews, bike catalogs and bike fitting strategies.
With a website and companion RU-vid Channel and Facebook Group I hope to connect to other (retro) bicycle enthusiast worldwide, share experiences and help out with my knowledge and expertise.
If I were to remove the peeling brand stickers on my frame and do this, then reapply new ones (have found some on Ebay), would you recommend doing that before or after the wax?
I fought with same bottom bracket other day and dang it was a hard work. Hot day and all. So stupid and horrible design... I almost gave up but then found your solution, punched the spindle out and hacksawed and gouged the cups out. Luckily threads didn't take too much damage and I managed to install proper bottom bracket there. Ebike conversion project was saved so thank you for this solution.
Dumb question: can't find information of the differences between all the different super v models. For example what is the difference between a v400 and a v900?
Hollowtech 2 way better than square taper more secure but I use high strength loctite 270 on square taper seem to hold up good but I still prefer hollowtech 2 cranks on my other bikes
Goedemorgen. Dankjewel voor de duidelijke video! Ik heb een brommertje met precies dezelfde soort lagers. Gisteren heb ik de as en alle onderdelen van de lager vervangen. Het wiel zat eerst perfect (draaide goed zonder zijwaardse speling) maar na een paar minuten rijden zat er veel speling op en begon het wiel te zwabberen. Ik heb zelf geen idee waardoor het komt maar ik merkte dat de kogeltjes waarschijnlijk net iets te groot waren waardoor er een gat ontstond waar door het laatste kogeltje net niet paste. Verder zou ik niet weten wat dit veroorzaakt zou kunnen hebben. Heeft u misschien nog enige ideeën/tips? Met vriendelijke groet, Sander
I installed this type of chain and the link doesn’t move freely. It’s got some resistance, plus the pin on the side that breaks off sticks out a bit and not flush with the rest of the chain. Is this normal? I find quick links far superior to this pin style.
Bike restorations are pretty cheap. If you do the work yourself. And do not worry about any original style parts. I think you got a good head tube and bb all you have to really worry about is cables adjustment
Hartelijk dank voor deze video. Ik wou vandaag gaan fietsen en ontdekte ineens speling in mijn achterwiel. Dacht eerst dat de as niet goed vastzat, maar de speling bleef en zat dus bij de naaf en kogellagers. Dacht dat het misschien versleten was en aan vervanging toe, maar dankzij dit filmpje kon ik het eenvoudig verhelpen, zelfs zonder sleutels, gewoon met de hand aandraaien was de speling er helemaal uit. Voor de zekerheid zal ik het later nog beter vastzetten met sleutels maar 50km fietsen ging in ieder geval prima!
I found what I believe is a 1969 Miyata "Gentlemen" City bike(?) in amazing condition. I can share a picture with you for your opinion of it's age, model, etc. And congratulations on an amazing restoration project!
I use ordinary washing up liquid ("Dish Soap" to our American cousins - only a few drops required) and very hot water in the chain cleaner for an initial pass - gets all the dirt and grease off before switching to the more expensive proprietary degreaser. You can repeat this a couple of times for really bad soiling and end up saving a lot of cleaner in the process.
You didn't mention one important thing I was hoping you'd say. Most who have used the plastic version of the Park chain cleaner say the bristles tend to fall out and get stuck in your chain. I was hoping maybe at least the pro version would not have this problem. In fact at the MUCH higher price it costs, it kind of warrants the brush bristles being epoxied into the holes they're mounted in.
the tricky part of biopace is reassembly- the chainrings have to be installed in a certain location to do anything beneficial. for example, I believe the crank arm should be at the 4 o'clock position and the most oblong part of the chainring at the top. there are videos about this on here, I reassembled mine incorrectly the first time
You need to cut the chain in such a way that there's a little bit of tension on the rear derailleur and the chain does not rub on the bottom of the upper pulley wheel.
Back in the olden days when I started biking at a young age, I would save up and upgrade components as I could but now that I can afford to own bikes and restore them I just go with whatever the bike originally had, obviously while trying to find the best option but I like to keep them as period correct as I can
I kind of trust the included pin method rather than the included quick link. Anyone has thoughts on this ? The quick link says can only be used once because of the thin material around that click. You probably can't reuse the pin, but still looks more reliable to me. BTW, I had a chain snapping on me recently (because of excessive wear) and is not something you ever want to happen under strong pedaling (I crashed of course) 😱
I tend to agree with you. For some reason I don't know Shimano uses chain pins. The only thing I can think of is that they're more durable than quick links, or they don't want people to be able to easily remove the chain.
Didntention what grease you used, didnt make a point of showing us that the cranks have to be set at 180°(very common mistake for begginer bike fixers)
My brother old bike has 32-630 ... my mind blew away. I was thinking I just need to slap a new 28" City Tire on ... now I need to find those retro tires :) Schwalbe Road Cruiser yes it has one with white stripe retro style. Schwalbe people like me ride Schwalbe because I am tired of changing tubes 2 times per week in Germany from all the beer bottles on the road.
