The 6 best ways to fix a front derailleur not shifting to highest gear 

Glad I could help!

Small adjustments are handled at the shifter level with the cable adjuster.

Glad it was helpful!

Great to hear!

You can buy loose E-type brackets, so I guess you could buy one for a crank with a 42T chainring. Whether or not that bracket is compatible with your derailleur I wouldn't know.

My pleasure!

You mean the " cable " housing.

Well that's not helping with my shifting problem@enriqueamaya3883

Yes they should.

how did u fix it?

Bro are you mad or something?​@enriqueamaya3883

​@enriqueamaya3883Jesus fackn doesnt know any fckin bike

Kabel vervangen is niet moeilijk. Het vervolgens afstellen van je derailleur is stuk lastiger, maar daar heb je deze video voor. Al doende leert men.

Even though it might look like 5 mm I might have readjusted it after shooting the video. 2 mm is about right, notwithstanding 5 mm might also work.

You are welcome!

I would move the derailleur cage by hand with the cable loose, to see if it can reach the chainring in the first place. If not, you might have a bottom bracket with an incorrect (too wide) spindle length, which moves the crank with the chainrings too far from the front derailleur. If this is not the case and you can get the derailleur cage over the biggest chainring, then my next best guess is that the cable isn't tight enough, and shifting first takes up cable slack before actually moving the cage.

Did you solve this? I have exactly this issue. When in the 2nd chain ring (at the front) no real resistance is felt (just slight spring resistance) while pushing the left thumb lever. It won't go into 3. Removing the cover of the shifter, (Shimano st-ef60-l on a Ridgeback Velocity) nothing is obviously being caught inside the shifter when pushing the thumb lever and the big white cam doesn't rotate at all (it only rotates when shifting from 1 to 2). I got from 2 into 3 one time by shifting the rear gear to 1 first and then pushing the thumb lever firmly past the long travel where there is no resistance and then all the way in as far as it will go.

@@GIChow No fix yet

@@rotaxrider OK this is what worked for me 1) take up slack in the gear cable (loosened bolt securing the cable at the derailleur end, pulled cable tight with pliers, tightened bolt, unscrewed cable adjuster at shifter end to tighten cable further so there was no play and slack being taken up when pushing on the left thumb shifter) 2) When in front gear 2 I pushed and released the thumb shifter quickly several times until there was resistance i.e. when it began to catch internally in the shifter and pull the cable towards gear 3. I did this a few times from 2 and it eventually started reliably catching internally to allow it to move to gear 3. So this works because there is a pawl in the shifter that gets a bit stuck and doesn't grab the spool that winds the gear cable. Repeatedly moving that pawl back and forth seemed to free it. There are lots of videos on degreasing the thumb shifter internals with solvent to achieve the same (i.e. get the pawl to move freely).

If it doesn't shift down it means there's too much tension on the cable. Moving the barrel adjuster inwards releases tension. See if that works. If you don't have any room left because the barrel adjuster is already all the way in and you still don't shift, you'll need to release the cable at the front derailleur about 1 mm as shown in the video. Then rinse and repeat the steps.

If your derailleur doesn't shift it needs adjusting.

No, but your local bike shop can

Yes

In the description

Your outer chainring is too small for the derailleur > it'll never shift correctly.

@@restorationdotbike i wouldn't want to swap the chainset out, its a nice gold annodised aluminum one with good teeth (CPI cyclone) i think on a 97 kona cindercone, if i swapped out the large chainring from a 44t to a 46t would that solve it? Or would the lower chainrings need be bigger aswell? Because manual only mentions outer chainring size and im sure people do customize small and medium chainring sizes.

Adjust your limit screw.

@@restorationdotbike adjusted them however still to no result.

Too tight that’s why your suppose to start from the smallest gear before adjusting all the way up

There are a number of reasons why you wouldn't want a 1x setup. 1. To have a remotely similar gear ratio, you'd also need to swap out your cassette. 2. Since one chainring now needs to cover the entire width of the cassette the angle of the chain and the sprocket, especially the biggest one, may start to sit a too large an angle, which can cause slipping issues. This is especially an issue with mountain bike gearing. 3. Some people want a triple 4. Changing parts instead of reusing them is always (much) more expensive 5. Technically speaking front chainrings meant for 1x setups differ from those used in triples and doubles. They have teeth that better prevent the chain from coming off, since it never needs to.

@@restorationdotbike yes I changed to a narrow wide chainring. I have never dropped a chain with this 1x set up. I have more confidence now standing going uphill under power . I have dropped chains before with my 2x and once twisted my ankle. Yes I also changed my cassette with a Sram 11 sp. 11-36. I had to use a derailleur extension (cheap on eBay) so it can reach the Lowest gear. I do miss the closer gear ratios however my bike is lighter and more efficient now. Jonas won the Tour de France on a Sram 1x12. I think the front derailleur will soon be a thing of the past. I alway hated shifting that thing.

The definition of taut: stretched or pulled tight; not slack. Example: The line is taut. Ignorant people shouldn't attempt to give lessons.