Ive been looking mini lathes and have come to a similar conclusion as you. I'm looking at the LMS offerings hoping they are ready to go and have had the quality control in place that the other low budget options dont
Im going threw the same thing now, 4 years later !! Thats how the alger sent me to you . Did you get something ? Did LMS , combine shiping on Lathe and Mill ? THANK YOU
Bottom line is that this is truly a situation of if you want junk, then buy Harbor Freight which is the capital land of china made junk. If you want something that is at least moderately quality-made , fairly accurate, and actually going to last a good amount of time then pay at least around double for what you would pay at harbor freight. Precision Matthews lathes and milling machines are certainly worth the extra money! You get machines that were upgraded with quality parts, machined and calibrated to good accuracy, no plastic gears like harbor freight junk, and Precision Mathews is located right here in Pennsylvania United States which actually gives you quality customer service that actually speaks clear English, gives you knowledgeable answers to any problems you have, comes with a 3 year warranty, and they have spare parts and accessories on hand versus commi china companies that you will most certainly have the misfortunes of dealing with shortly after you get their lathe or milling machine
Wow, time flies. I still have this lathe. I ended up getting a stand for it with wheels so I can roll it out of the way when I'm not using it. I don't use it that often but when i need to it comes in handy. Good luck and thanks for watching.
Formbot...I've bought them a voron 2.4 kit on aliexpress, should be sent from Czech after 1 week the time to have it in stock and 3 days delivery to France. After I bought the kit, they say that the ship is blocked in China because of Covid and they don't refund me, I now have to wait for this boat to arrive in Europe. Don't ever buy anything from this seller, they will steal your money and deliver you the kit when they want. Buy elsewhere !
I just got started with 3D printing. The 3D printing community was shockingly huge. Many in the community are metal workers, engineers, mechanics etc. I pretty much got bombarded by the RU-vid algorithm with power tools, CNC, Lathes and even more powertools. They all happen to intersect with each other. 3D print upgrades to the base 3D printer. 3D print CNC temporary parts. Purchase power tools i don't have but need in order to make enclosures and a ton of other practical parts. CNC and a lathe to replace all the 3D printed parts for all the above. It should say "warning" prepare to eat noodles indefinitely
I just bought this kit. Thank you so much for the unboxing. I have seen some videos on these kits and it seems that the screws rust pretty easily. Have you had any of these issues? I can't wait for the follow-up video. Thank you!
Did you complete the build? It would be nice yo have a follow up video with your verdict after actually putting it together and using the printer for a bit
There were just a couple screws missing, maybe 3? I don't recall which sizes. I had already purchased additional M3s and M5s so it was a non-issue for me. Everything else was fine.
Thanks for doing this unboxing. I've got a FORMBOT kit due to arrive in about a week, and I'll be curious to see how it compares. I was also wondering about the drama over the SSR. Like you, I've never actually seen reports of these things failing on these printers, just that those devices tend to fail short when they do fail. I'm tempted to pick up another questionable SSR and put it in series with the neutral and drive both of them. Or perhaps an external mechanical relay in series that I can drive off a spare GPIO pin somewhere to reliably drop power to the bed when the printing stops. I think it's less than 7A of current at 120v.. And the thermal fuse as well.. Probably should get a thermal fuse for my Ender 3 in case the MOSFET driving it craps out.. I'll be watching your experience building this printer if you happen to make more videos; thanks again for taking the time to share your experience.
So I'm not an electrical engineer or qualified in any way to give any advice that won't kill you after maiming and burning your family and everyone you know to death. The SSR thing is real and horrible and severely riddled with fakes they don't even meet half or a quarter of the rates capacity. For a while you could just buy a double rated SSR and know it was probably half the rated value, now you can't be sure it's even an 8th the value. The name brand ones cost like $70-110 for that form factor of SSR. That being said I don't think the load on a 3d printer is huge. Order the real one and don't leave the printer without the fuse and I think you're safe failed open because the thermal fuse right?
I just bought the v0 kit. I purchased a second belt immediately it was $8 on Amazon and the extra length was sooooooo much easier to pull through even though it ended up just getting cut off it was worth it for the hand hold. I ended up getting it right tight with no tools?
I've build of v2. 4 and sourcing the BOM pain and so expensive, this kit looks fine, after you getting running your voron you can replace some parts anyway, but definitely less expensive if you want to source all that your self 👍
Kit looks top notch. Who cares if the rails are misuimi. You have legit parts that matters. And u got a dragon hotend. Probably the best one the market. That's why slice shut it down. I have 2 dragons and a dragonfly. Definitely a 1000 dollar kit in my opinion. U did good sir.
So funny, I just spent the last couple of weeks doing exactly the same analysis. I'm a bit of a research kind of guy so I even went so far as to check out the manufactures of all those you went over and found they are pretty much all made by a few companies. However, LMS and Micromark upgrade and do a little extra before they sell them. I ended up purchasing the same deluxe model as you did but got the 7350 with Digital readout. Now I can't wait for it to arrive. Last thing I need to find is metal gears.
Are you able to hide all the extra hardware under the OEM camera cover inside the Pilot? Or adapt it? The tech is awesome, but it does look a bit like a hack... I wonder if it is possible to hide some of the extra hardware better...
I am currently on a similar path. I found that the proxxon does offer a set of gears for imperial threads. After having the LMS 5100 for a while and knowing that the proxxon can indeed do imperial. What would you say how you feel about the LMS5100 now having used it a while. What holds me short on the LMS5100 is that I find videos that say out of box it has problems and cleaning up to do. I really like the idea of the german made machine that I don't have to fix before I use it. I am a newbie with no experience I don't want to fix the machine first. I want to learn to machine first.
Nice flight video. Did you get your mini lathe yet? I was watching your video because I have a friend selling me the Micro Mark 7 X 16 lathe. Same price as a new one; however, he installed the DRO kit with motor feeds and such. I'm new to lathes also, so I'll have to figure it all out with him helping me when he can. He's going to hook up my laptop to it with a conversation style program that runs the tasks I want. I'll be using mine mostly for my custom knife making, or parts for my knives. So his price is really good since it's all wired up for programming, plus he has a lot of tools that come with it. He's actually giving me an old 1920 Burkes No. 2 vertical milling machine too! Right now he's cleaning it up and making sure all the parts are working smooth and accurate. It's a small floor model but big enough to mill parts for my knives as well. Who knows what else I will do with it. Hope to have both machines here very soon! On another note, I used to fly RC planes also. Right now I just have a drone that I fly every now and then. I wish it were a DJI Mavick 2, but it's the Yuneec model.
Good video Jeffrey! Just wondering (as with others), how did you wire up the DJI air unit Tx/Rx pins on the F411-wse and setup the Port? I saw mention of "On mine the brn/wht goes to v1x, the gray goes to C1. I hope that helps.", but not sure exactly what pins brn/white are" Can you provide some clarifications on the DJI wiring pleaseÉ Cheers.
