TexasNEV is a local company in Dallas that does electric conversions of bikes, go karts, motorcycles, light vehicles as well as custom battery construction using Lithium Ion, Lithium Iron Phosphate, battery management systems and retail sales of lithium batteries.
It was just the one off Amazon. It looks great and the size of the motor is to scale on the bike size but it's just not enough power for use from a a dead stop. If that's not an issue then go for it. :) Could be an excellent e-bike conversion (which is what I normally do). There's some 80cc conversions out there and even a few Harbor freight predator 212's that people have done.
@@michaelhart5070 That's a lot of fun for sure. :) The kits I sell on ebay are 5000w and can peak up to 8,000w for 30 sec, comes with a 120 amp controller and I also offer a 72v 40ah battery. Will hit 62mph...
Me neither but I did end up ripping this out and putting a magnaflow in (see other video). I liked that WAY better and I could immediately tell how much less restrictive it was.
I have owned my LCP for 10 years. I replaced the take down pin with an aluminum one and got a 7+1 mag from Ruger. I have no problem with the heavy trigger. The longer mag gives me better grip so my accuracy improved.
@Bigpimpin9393 there is no clutch on an electric go-kart. That's a sprocket, and if you watch all the videos you know that it's impossible for it to go 80.
@@TexasNEV it is not impossible brother trust me but I am not hating at all there is a such thing as an electric clutch so yeah it was impossible to go to mars and the moon yeah 0K 🤣
@Bigpimpin9393 The technical specifications of the motor, current, drive sprocket, driven sprocket and wheel diameter, it is not possible. The efficacy of clutches on electric drive systems are subject to debate, and cannot make speed all by themselves. Some people have confused the brake band has a clutch in these videos.
I've moved beyond this, and now offer a 5000w / 72v w/ top speeds in the low 60's w/ over 115 nm of torque. Check out my ebay store @texasnev or reach out to me at info@texasnev.com
@@JayH605 Well the way I look at it is that if you have that much power and you ride it "normal" then you'll have a ton of range and a very very long service life. It's kind of like the big engine that isn't doing a lot of work vs the tiny engine running at max all the time. My "Terminator Electric Chopper" has the 5kw 72v system but I rarely go over 35 so I have LOTS of reserve power and LOTS of range and nothing gets very hot. Make sense?
Yep! It's almost like it makes sense.. LOL.. The "Outroad" brand on Amazon / Ebay" is a far better candidate.. This was for my son and he was paying for part of it so every dollar counted. :)
It was a 45A controller, which is the correct one that matches w/ the motor. The BMS was a 50A. The battery pack was capable of far more current than what the motor needed, which is what you want. (45A x 72v) = 3240 Watts into the controller. You can push these motors harder with the motor cooling fins (out there on ebay somewhere) and ice in between hard runs. Love these little things.
That was so long ago I can't even find it anymore.. However, that being said, I wouldn't recommend that route. It was not worth the effort. I had one cell go bad and I ended up just getting rid of it. I'd go w/ whatever you can scrap together from battery hoookup, perhaps a 24S lifepo4 or 20s li-po. They will help you get the best bang for the buck.
Anyone know if the LCP trigger has a lot of "creep" at all? My friend has one and when I pulled the trigger it wasn't smooth at al, but it was creaking as I pulled it (by feel, not making noise). Like instead of moving back perfectly smooth it would move in increments. It wasn't really bad or anything, but I really wonder if they're all like that or if there was something wrong with his gun specifically. Like, if I pull the trigger back slowly, it will go back in about 1/8" increments, kinda skipping along the way. As much as I dislike the SCCY CPX models triggers, they two that I pulled the triggers on were smooth like glass the entire length of pull... but the LCP was nothing like that.
It's entry level pocket carry.. Manage expectations. :) Mine doesn't have any creep, it's just way too heavy, hence the neat idea of the yellow lines. :)
That's way out of my leauge. Swapping a 5.7 LS1 w/ a 6.0 LQ9 both being Gen III, all the parts fit from the LS1 to the new LQ9 short block so I wouldn't be much help, and I didn't even do the work in the first place. :)
Thats quick from an L1 to an L3! Great job! Im hoping for my L2 next spring, then eventually 3. I would like to stay in the L2 range a while first. Congratulations.
@@TexasNEV Oh I've learned that as I printed out the L2 study guide the day after my L1 cert, lol.. I have to be honest as you said really thats all I will ever need. I would definitely like to and will attempt L3 certification when I feel I'm ready. But yeah, L2 is really more than anyone needs in my personal opinion. But there are guys that care deeply about this and they respect and appreciate that amount of power. Its a wide, wide range, L2. I hadn't planned on getting my L1 this year as I haven't built or launched any in 10 years. But from May on I decided to at least make an L1 attempt by next year at that time. So spent the spring and summer then flying low and mid power as I have since 1990. Its been so much fun, I really enjoy doing this again then getting the L1 cert on 11/4/23. The last 10 years alone the amount of things like the chute release and OpenRocket I just found this year. Its been so cool to see this stuff has been developed over the years I hadn't paid attention to the hobby at all. But I would like to get my L2, then do a few DD L1 rockets, and fly higher impulse L2 successfully for a few years before I think about the L3. But ill be planning it along the way for sure, then when it's time I have a few willing to help that are L3 so it looks good! Very cool again, I'll look for future vidoes!
@@michaelbozung1794 I just got the L3 back then, just to get it, I very rarely ever flew much L3 sized motors.. It was just the sense of accomplishment, that's all.
If you're not handy, then you pay someone like me to do it.. LOL.. It all depends on what sort of Napoleon Dynamite maad skills you have. This project would require basic mechanical / extensive electrical and some welding skills.
I have exact same 5000w 72 v but on a small 20'' wheel shopping bike. The huge rear hub is partially hidden by rear panniers it's the ultimate sleeper!!
I actually ended up gutting this and going w/ my personal fav: the Magnaflow muffler.. I could instantly tell the difference in power and the sound was deep / bass / rumbly w/o the annoying Flowmaster toots.
Can you provide web address for these parts, and what was the cost of just motor, battery, controller, and sprocket/belt. I'm doing this same thing but for my kids a ride to the bus stop, thanks for your time and hard work your buggy is rad
That's a lottta data.. lol.. If I were to do it again, I would not recommend doing it like this.. I'd recommend a Motenergy ME1306 and Kelly 500A brushless controller. The belt drive components came from Comet Kart Sales , the belt drive sprocket adapter plate came from AZUSA (custom). I built the battery myself out of LG 64aH pouch cells. When all was said and done, soup to nuts, that's $3500-$3700 sitting in the driveway and that was me buying a non running HH 150 for $750.
Very cool! I enjoyed seeing how you overcame the various hurdles. My brother had a similar bike back in the day called the "Big Mo", (non motorized). I'm just getting into building motorized bicycles myself and am about to start my first build soon enough so it's great learning about all the different builds on YT and seeing what products and techniques I can incorporate into my own build. I just ordered a Micargi Rover Nx3 in metallic olive green as my base. Super nice bike. Can't wait for it to get here! I'm gonna shoot for a GX120 clone engine and a 30 series CVT with a 32 tooth sprocket. Should be a sweet ride when it's done. Anyway, that was a great video. Thanks!
Nice! Have fun and be careful! That was my only gas project, everything else is all electric stuff that can hit in the low 60's. We're in an HOA so I am mindful of noise, etc, plus, gas isn't my forte, I'm an EE so all things electric / electronic is my gig. :)
There's a guy from like pedalchopper who sells whole kits for these that do work but they are spendy. Good job getting this to work for you, lots of work but nothing worthwhile is ever easy.
I asked that guy two questions about two upgrades I intend to do on my Schwinn Stingray bike and by way of an answer, I got the following: "I can't help you with that." I guess he took me for a spy trying to steal his trade secrets.
You kind of need the motor cut offs on the breakes on technical trail riding for the pedal assist, both my ebikes keep pushing for a full three seconds after you stop pedaling,
Agreed, but that particular motor doesn't seem to do that. Moot though, as even if I wanted to use the ebrake handles, I couldn't because the brake handles and shifter are integrated together as one unit.. Not impossible, would have required significant rework. As you can see in later videos, I moved on to much more powerful kits that I have built to my specifications now.
U actually made a mini motorcycle. My 49cc four stroke does 48mph 8400 rpm up hills . I have a dual chain 5 to 1 transmission,420 chain 28tooth sprocket on 26 inch rims . Ur transmission is 3 to 1 ,it jerky on take off because of this . If u change to a 48 tooth ur bike will actually have a higher top speed and be quicker on take off, because ur rpm will be higher creating more hp . Ur bike will climb any hill also .plus less wear on ur clutch.
@@TexasNEV there only 30 to 90 bucks . Seriously I put that engine on your frame using a mini bike transmission. For ur son's safety change out the tranny the original is a single chain and will brake,both mine did the shaft over heats and locks up ,the transmission literally folds in half ripping apart because the engine produces 2footlbs of torque at clutch engagement speed 2600 to 3000 rpm. A 48 tooth sprocket takes load off ur transmission it's top end is 43mph ,it is,lol ur bike now does 38mph out the box ,it really does.ive built 5 of em. There's hundreds of videos project farm testing of ur engine is spot on. Please use a 48 or 50 tooth sprocket on the bike it will almost pull wheelies if u do. And they do get 50 miles per tank full ,1 dollar lol fills it up .38 gallon tank is on that bike. Ps get a tac that engine turns 8500 ,stock 7200 underload with 44 tooth gear . Believe it or not that's a Honda 50 cc clone on ur bike that engine came on the Honda cub that did 45mph. Ur engine produces 4.2 Hp at 8500 rpm it really does. The right gear would bring that engine to life.
