Hey guys - welcome to the Eurotrash Motorsports RU-vid channel! Here I document my VW/Audi/Mercedes builds, rebuilds, restorations, engine swaps and general maintenance projects.
When the engine wouldn't turn, That large gunk chunk of carbon. Do you think that probably came off the manifold side of a valve stem and made the valve stick open?
Thanks for the content. Any change that the B-12 will harm or degrade the head-gasket material? When the engine wouldn't turn, That large gunk chunk of carbon. Do you think that probably came off the manifold side of a valve stem and made the valve stick open? I ask because I just bought a 100,000 mile Q7 3.0 TFSI today and I suspect that I will be duplicating your process soon.
Dose anyone has an idea of b12's alternative product? B12 berryman is no where I can get in my country. Besides this, I cannot order b12 from Amazon due to shipping issue.😢 Any website or similar products?
@bluesky6253 where are you located? Some folks have been able to order from ebay...Alternatively you can try LiquiMoly Engine Flush or injector cleaner
@@ETMotorsports thanks for your reply bro, I am in Taiwan, I think I will try Liqui Moly for the first because Liqui Moly is available every where. Not sure why they are so popular.
I added early on a water methanol kit and catchcan on my audi to avoid this. No issue with warranty (unplug the hose when it goes to the dealer). Now all my direct injection car has a meth kit.
Thanks for a great video. I recently did this procedure on my son's 2007 Rav with 140,000 on it. Oil has been changed every 5,000 miles since new using name brand syn blend. Oil consumption had gotten to a qt every 580 miles and was getting progressively worse. I used 2-3 ounces into the cylinders every 8 hours and hand rotated it 6-7 turns each time I added Berrymans. I did 5-6 treatments ( 3 bottles). Did an oil change including 1/2 bottle of Seafoam. I turned the motor over with the plugs out and holy smokes a ton of carbon sand/bits came out. I fogged the cylinders with oil the night I did the oil change but didn't want to start and drive it at night. The next morning it took a fair amount of turning it over to build compression. I retrospect I should have fired it after fogging cylinders. Once started it popped a miss on all 4 cylinders. I drove it 20-25 minutes at 3000 to 3500 rpms. Did a 2nd oil change and new plugs. Oil that came out was black as coal. Since then it has been driven 1100 miles and used less than 1/2 qt. It also runs very well. So it worked!!! From a qt every 580 miles to 2200 to 2500 miles. Amazing results.
Thanks for the suggestions, I made little bit a research and I found that liqui moly Proline Gasoline injector cleaner is stronger than engine flush and standard injector cleaner. Do you think that I will have better effect with it? Thanks in advance
Hi, I was wondering if I could do this on my skoda superb 2011 1.8 engine. The engine lights came on with EPC, and the idling is pretty bad, can't go more that 50km/hr, it also stalls really bad too. I checked in with the mechanic, last month, and I replaced all 4 spark plugs because 4th was burnt out, I had the same issue again, the mechanic checked the 4th spark plug again and it is burnt out with the other 3 still as good as new, and he said I have to changed the motor. I took it to the dealership, and I was asked to book a time to get it check, for the check alone, I have to pay about $300. I live in sweden, and I'm not sure I can get the B12 here. But I was wondering if I could try this out on my skoda superb. Please let me know what you think.
@iamOmolove hey definitely although I think the epc light might be related to cam adjustment... check my oil pressure videos where I fix my a4 which had the epc and oil pressure issues before I did the piston soak
@ETMotorsports thank you very much for your response, I'll check out the video, oh!! I forgot to mention, my car is currently burning so much oil that I have to buy a 5liter and keep in the car, so I can top up every 3 days.
Sorry to bother you again, I couldn't get the B12 here in sweden, but I found "Rislone engine flush" and "STP Carb cleaner", can I use any of this for the soak?
Hi, thank you for video. I WILL DO THIS week. But im struggling aswell to find b12 chemtool fuel injector cleaner. Do you recommend doing it with Liqui Moly Injector cleaner?
@@EnsarRamadani-li7rz you can try... or LiquiMoly Engine Flush Pro Line... viewers have mixed success with other chemicals depending on how bad the engine is
Hello, thank you for the video. I will give a try to this but my question is that in europe we dont have b12 or seafom. Do you have any recommendations ? Like liqui moly or bardahl or any other brand and which type should I use for the best result. Thank you in advance
@Irem-tg6rb hey you can try LiquiMoly Engine Flush Pro Line... depending on how bad your engine is you might be able to restore it wth that... otherwise if you go through some of the comments folks have suggested alternatives to B12... you may be able to order it from ebay btw
@alancatraniuc2465 that's not oil consumption mate 🤣 that's your engine just smelling the oil vapors as they go by...lol don't touch your engine - just drive it like you stole it
Did this process a few months ago on my 2013 A6 3.0t based on your previous videos and by sheer luck I happened to be dog sitting for my brother, which gave me access to their vehicles and allowed me to soak the pistons over the coarse of three days. I used three bottles of B12 and filled then rotated the crank three times. While not as precises as your method here, I do believe that I was able to achieve a similar effect as the pistons were never in the same positions after each rotation. Before this process I was burning 1qt of oil every 800 miles and I'm happy to say that i'm currently at 1800 miles and my MMI oil reading, plus my dip stick, show zero burned oil. Can't thank you and everyone else enough for documenting this process and sharing it with us. Thanks!!
Your videos are always the best man. I'm currently attempting to diagnose an oil pressure issue on my 2010 Volkswagen CC. I hooked up a mechanical to see what oil pressure was present on the vehicle. When the engine is warm, it reads around 10 PSI at idle and at 2k it goes up to 30 or so PSI. As far as the reading I have come across, its pretty low or at the lower ends of minimum by specs. I decided to start easy, I pulled the oil pan and saw that someone had already been there and replaced the oil pump with an "aftermarket" pump that seems to be in working order. The pick up tube looks clean as well and no wear metal or glitter inside the oil pan. Second thing I decided to do was to take off the upper timing cover to see the cam bridge and oil valve. It appears that both cams are brand new and the cam bridge is a valco brand cam bridge and it has the revised screen (one that doesn't blow out haha). Also, the timing chain is the double linked one (revised version) and the tensioner as well. This leads to to believe that maybe my oil pressure issues are coming from the balance shafts. Any suggestions would be appreciated my guy!
hmm...it sounds like somebody's been chasing this issue for a while and already dumped a few thousand dollars on it...what is the car doing? is it giving you a warning for oil pressure? epc light? hesitation at 1500rpm? any codes for intake cam adjustment? I know a lot of people say the balance shafts can cause issues but if you watch the second video I posted dealing with this oil pressure issue, I`m not exactly sure how the balance shafts can cause low oil pressure...there's nowhere for the oil pressure to escape - at least not that I can see...on this car the issue ended up being the intake cam adjustment phasor...I replaced the cam to get it to stop throwing the EPC light at 1500rpm...you could see scoring on the bearing surface but I think it was the phasor which was "leaking" oil... that's not to say the balance shafts can't be a problem but on my car, they were still spinning freely...
@@ETMotorsports I appreciate for the reply brother. This vehicle has been used and abused. For example the 02E trans was full of ATF and wasn’t engaging gears. I manage to flush it out as best as possible and put some liquid moly in it. Now it shifts smoothly but still having a low oil pressure code that comes up but seems to be functional. As far as the low oil pressure on engine side. I’m going change cams that u pulled from the local junk yard (they appear to be in great condition compared to the old ones. Only real wear I have noticed, the girdle cap (valve cover 🤷) has significant scoring on the caps. Odd thing is, the actual cylinder head looks pretty good. The cam lobs look good but the touching surface to ride ok the cylinder head and the girdle cap look scratch to hell, cams and girdle cap. That could of been from the ridiculous amount of RTV someone put to seal the girdle cap. It honestly looks like someone had a medical emergency while holding an RTV tube. I changed both balance shafts. The exhaust one had blown screens and one missing and the plastic cover looked kinda eaten up at the passenger side portion of it. I should be able to get it all squared away today before end of day (central time) I’ll report back. Again, thank you for your videos and your help! Cheers from Smyrna Tennessee.
@@ETMotorsports only the startup after treatment took 7-8 minutes. Had misfires n I cleared it using an OBD scanner. after tht everything was fine. Kept idel for abt 20 min n went for a small ride n got the oil changed. So far all good.
What if we don’t rotate the crank and keep adding b12 every 6 hours will it be fine ? I am in the middle of the process and added b12 without rotating the crank do i need to worry about something here? Thanks
@@ETMotorsportsI got CEL, EGR is not functioning due to lambda value is zero. So I replaced the oxygen sensor. On om642, oxygen sensor is only for emission purposes. With the new sensor, lambda is still zero. Do you think the lambda need a reset/ initiation by a computer, or I just need to drive 100+ km?
@victoryore4554 hmm pretty much the same from what I've seen so far...I was just looking at a 3.0T yesterday - seems like the exact same placent of the EGR valve
lol awesome dude! I have a bunch of 2.0t cars and assumed the facelift motors didn’t have the issues the b8 did but my wife’s is consuming bad - will have to do this!
2016 Audi Q5 that I just bought used was running really good and smooth. But I soon realized it was burning a litre every 600kms / 400ish miles. Changed PCV which didn't really help. Followed instructions here but only for 15 hours with high mileage seafoam as we don't have B-12 in Canada. Drove from Toronto to Mississippi the next 2 days and it burnt absolutely 0 oil !!! Things to note. - For the 15 hour soak I still used 2 bottles of seafoam. - There was no misfires/hiccups for the first startup after the soak. It just started like normal. - there was only white smoke for maybe 1 min.
@NbaTwitterReacts yup- seafoam worked pretty good on my A4... it didn't do anything on a 3.0T so I guess it depends on how bad the rings are stuck... great results!
brother I have a big question, I want to use this method with my 2015 2.5 L jetta, it consumes 1 liter of oil every 1000 km like many here, however my car does not emit smoke, if I do this it is likely that my car will start to emit smoke forever?
hey they don't all smoke...my sister's Q5 did, but my A4 didn't for some odd reason...with the amount of oil they go through I'd be expecting a solid trail of smoke at any time... all to say that just because the car isn't smoking doesn't mean it's not having these issues as well...if you've checked all common sources of loss like PCV, leaking seals etc. and everything checks out, then you should give this a try...I haven't done a 5cyl yet but it's an inline motor so should be pretty much the same process as the 2.0T with a bit more liquid for the 5th cylinder
You have a lift. IMO, you should have picked up one side of the car to get the piston crowns level with the ground and do three pistons of one side at a time with the b12. When you said you were going to use seafoam, I shook my head and said "that's not going to work!" I don't think that you need to do the valves. To wash the valves, you can spray the b12 into the intake atomized.
@alafrosty I thought about tilting the car but you need 45deg to put the pistons horizontal which can't be easily achieved and would be very hard to work on... Spraying b12 or any other chemical on the valves won't clean the build up - that's why shops do walnut blasting etc...
@ETMotorsports you didn't need to get all the way up to 45. Wheel rollers and 40 degrees would've been enough. You could add the b12 before angling the car/engine. Gasoline cleans valves with aerosol contact. B12 will do the same, only more effectively. Yes, a bath is better, but trying to bathe overhead valves completely is not going to go well and the b12 will probably destroy the valve seals.
This video is beyond infuriating. If you’re like me, and just trying to figure out how to route the belt, skip the first like 10 god damn minutes. Dude just wants to talk about nothing.
Two questions I’m going to give this a go in a couple weeks while I don’t need the car daily… 1. If I run into the carbon issue where you can no longer crank the car by hand, and the valves are open but you can not crank the car… what to do? Just blow it out? 2. Of course you’d want the oil to be warm but is it better to just immediately drain the oil without even starting after doing this? Appreciate any help!
@nelsinivr6 on the first one - yes pretty much all you can do is blow them out and keep working it... for the oil it's your choice - I run my engine wth the B12 but some people are worried and drain it without running
@@ETMotorsportsthanks for the reply! Cool maybe I’ll run it just a bit at idle to warm the oil otherwise draining might be a pain haha. I was mostly just concerned w blowing carbon past open valves but what came out of yours didn’t appear it would necessarily hurt anything… hopefully.
Hi, could you you please provide exact part number for B-12 you used, there is so many online, some legal in all states some not. Guess it has different chemical in. Please post a PN for stuff you have use 👏🏻
hey you`re looking for: Berryman® B-12 Chemtool® Carburetor, Fuel System and Injector Cleaner Net 15 fl. oz. (444 mL) Easy Pour-In Can Part #0116 (the small cans I used) or Net 21 fl. oz. (621 mL) Easy Pour-In Can For Trucks & SUV's Part #0121 (the bigger cans)
Hello, I did it too ,but code come out 2006 intake manifold runner control stuck closed bank 1 a.Engine works fine. I am wondering about if I did something with connection air filter and should be from this ?what is your advice?thanks
Yes you were right i missed unplugged 1 vacuum line , I will give update about my oil consumption was 1 quarter per 1200km after did liqui molly engine flush and increase to 1 quarter per 600 km I don’t know why but my hope is in B12, thanks again
BMW N63TU owner here. This engine is notorious for oil consumption. Over the winter at 130k I replaced all 32 valve stem seals and was underwhelmed, even borderline upset, when I saw the oil consumption went from a quart every 200-300 miles to a quart every 500 miles. I thought this month-long process of changing the seals was the definitive fix for this. What didn’t click immediately was one weird thing: while changing the seals I would take an air nozzle to the cylinders to blow out any debris, and carbon would shoot out and sandblast my face. Most of the carbon was smaller sand-like particulate but there were larger chunks that blew out at first. As it turned out, burning oil for so long left significant carbon deposits on the piston crown and on the piston rings. I came across this video and knew exactly my issue was stuck rings, and so I bought six cans of B12 and did two 6-hour soaks while manually rotating the engine. A few cylinders were completely empty after a few hours and had to be topped off. After two days of soaks I suctioned out the remaining B12, changed the oil twice, and on the second refill used a newer (not BMW LL-01FE approved) engine oil targeted at reducing piston deposits. After 1,500 miles the oil level just ticked below the ‘full’ mark. Another observation I saw was checking the O2 sensors. Before the B12 both upstream sensors were sooty and black. 1,500 miles after the B12 treatment the passenger side O2 sensor was a white/gray as expected, but the driver side sensor was still sooty black. And so I’ll perform another two soak sessions on the driver side bank which will resolve all oil burning, likely making this the only non-oil burning N63TU with over 100k miles.
