How to fix excessive oil consumption from clogged piston rings (Part 3) - Final verdict and Q&A 

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Awesome results!! Glad it worked

Thats awesome! may i know what procedures did you apply? i have Similar issue for 2012 q5 2.0 T burning a quart every 300 miles! Its drives awesome with only 102 miles in it right now. thanks

awesome! really glad it worked for you as well...yeah good point about re-using the old plugs until you swap the oil...I did the same but another viewer installed new plugs right after the soak...it's not a good idea because you're running all of the burned up soot and B12 right through your new plugs...so yes - soak, run for 30 min with the old plugs so you can go through all the garbage and then get the new oil and new plugs in...

So, whats your oil consumption after all? My A3 2.0t consumes 1l of oil per 1200km more or less. I’m definitely trying this method

@@prppatrik I made it about 2500 miles (~4000 km) and had to add one more liter! Still going strong!

Thanks for the feedback!

Love it! Thanks for the feedback!

same problam i have a same car please tell me how to fix it?

Согласен полностью, так свечи кидать в колодцы нельзя

Hmm worth a try - might pick up a jug next time around

Great results!!

I NEED to do this!!! i Need to know couple things first. can Berryman be in oil when ur done w procedure? & should i try to Vacuum out whatever is left in there? plselmk🙏 ​@ETMotorsports

@@timpresutto184I changed the oil after doing the process, since it was full of carbon chunks. I used a Liqui Moly engine flush to try to remove as much crap as possible. It worked awesome. So far I hit around 2000 miles and 0 signs of oil consumption.

​@maurifico1 do the motor flush before the soak?

Much appreciated!

thanks for the feedback!

Good luck! Keep us posted with your results

How'd it go? I'm looking at a 2016 Q5 and have concerns about this issue...

Awesome!! A few folks have tried different chemical combinations - looking forward to the results

Hi, did you try the procedure on your Volvo?. I have the same problem in my 2016 Xc90 T6. Thanks in advance for your answer

So u put the b12 in the tank with the gas? How do u do it? Wait until the gas is low then pour the whole thing?

Yep, I put a bottle in a 1/4 tank of gas and then fill up. This is my 3rd tank of gas and it slowed down the oil consumption.

@@smyley6049 niceee thats dope well good thing i bought 3 bottles of b12..i plan to use 2 for the piston soak then i guess ill use the last one on the gas...thanks for the advice

​@@smyley6049better gas mileage?

@@proefficientsvision6325It does actually guide you on the can. Add before fuel, to ensure proper mixture. I’m just about to add some once the last 24 hrs is up.

Awesome results...jeez 2017 shouldn't have these problems 🤯

Nice work!

yeah they're lots of work...keep us posted on your results!

@@ETMotorsports Ok so here’s update after soak. Almost 100 miles and running good with no misfires 🙏🏼 ill keep u posted after i reach 400 💪🏼

@@ETMotorsportsOk just changed oil after driving 480 miles and car is running great🎉🎉🎉 Sounds good and seems like im getting better gas mileage. Thanks again for sharing your experience and knowledge.Do you think a piston soak would work good on a tdi engine ?

@kspree9649 yeah it should - if the issues are clogged piston rings for sure

Awesome results! Glad it worked

Shoot... yeah I remember your issues... sorry to hear this wasn't as effective... yeah there's no guarantee with this - your kind of praying that this softens things just enough to get you on the other side of the Audi spec...

Yeah I went into it with low expectations so I'm happy with even just the slightest improvement. One thing I wish I did differently was the regimented crank turning that you did with turning the crank and adding more B12 every 6 hours. I feel that's one of the biggest factors. I could be wrong, but I would think allowing the carbon to soften and then rotating the crank to break things loose is one of the most important contributing factors to the success you had. Unfortunately I did the treatment at my work so I was limited to how often I could access my car

@@thehen42try an additives that could soften or swell the gaskets and valve stem seals. I'm currently on a second can of Liqui moly Oil Saver and it might work, only 1000km so far. But at this time, I would have to add a litre of oil, but the oil level sensor still shows max. Alao check the PCV system. All of these things can contribute to excessive oil consumption.

@@thehen42 Also check your pcv hose and make sure it is not crimped, and if so, change it out. I have seen this fix the problem as well.

interesting - I tried to reinstall the spark plugs and turn the motor and it wouldn't move...I thought of the same thing - use compression to push the liquid through but that didn't seem to work on my motor...

that's awesome! that's quite a significant improvement in that one cylinder!

It definitely was not expected. I was hopeful for some increase in psi after scoping the cylinder and not seeing any visible damage, didn’t expect this outcome. But it just goes to show the impact that stuck rings can make. I almost pulled the motor and donated it for charity lol Again, love the videos, love how thorough you are with them and looking foreword for more.

yeah when the stuff burns it SMOKES! :)

Hey yeah lots of folks are doing this for various reasons :) I'm in Ottawa

Pcv is common but does not account for the quantities of oil we're talking about here... you're not going through 1L of oil every 4-500km because of the PCV... that's a pretty good indicator actually - if you're losing a bit of oil between changes it might be PCV or a leak... if you're losing significant quantities without a visible sign of a leak - most likely rings

@@ETMotorsports yeah you did mention 1L

Hey - keep us updated on your final results

Did you find out the cause of your leak? And how did the second soak turn out?

Good luck! Keep us posted with your results... sadly he mentioned he paid 3k for a new oil pump which is insane so hopefully he wasn't taken advantage of by a crappy mechanic

Great! yeah pretty much the same car...I used the Rotella T6 in my A4 after the piston soak for about 1000km...I don't think the T6 is within spec for the Audi so perhaps consider switching back when you're happy with the numbers...but yes I've heard the same thing - more detergents to help keep the engine clean...

Did you use liquimoly engine flush for piston soak??

​@@vader_117I used the same product as in the video. I am thinking of using liquid moly engine flush every oil change to keep the pistons cleaner hopefully. So running it for 15 min and draining the oil.

I also did a shortened soak with B12 on my 2011 A4. I had planned on doing a 24 hour soak but got called into work so my soak only lasted 3 hours! Prior to the soak I was burning 1 quart every 200 miles. So far I’ve driven the car 900 miles and no drop in oil!

Great info

so you're saying do the second soak with MMO instead of B12? Same procedure but mmo. I had a successful first soak with B12 so far but planning on doing a second soak when the time comes for oil change, however B12 is hard to get in Canada, and expensive if available.

How were the results after the first soak? What's your consumption now and why do you want to do the second soak? If you're already pretty good after the first soak you can try to do a second run with Seafoam high mileage or equivalent from Canadian Tire...I just ran a soak in my Touareg VR6 with Seafoam and so far it looks to have worked well

Soak done Oct 20th or so. Added 4.5ish L of Quakerstate 5w40 Euro, the digital indicator didn't quite show full at the time. Then about 100km later I added a bottle of Rislone engine treatment which probably put the oil over max capacity. I'm now at 1000km and the indicator hasn't moved. I have a dipstick but it's maybe moved 2-3mm. Prior to this the car was burning a full digital meter scale every 550 or so, I only had the car for that long before a friend sent me your videos and I went to town on the soak. I had misfires in cyl 2-3 and so i got someone to do a carbon cleaning and was it ever caked! Runs much better now but i feel the vibrations in idle they're just very very subtle. Other work done diy was MAF clean, throttle body clean, changed the PCV, new coils(NGK R8), new plugs twice. I'm back to the ones that came with the car which I cleaned with throttle body cleaner and wire brush. I'll try the soak with seafoam next and have a jug of Pennzoil Platinum euro and liquimoly oil saver ready for next change. Here are some pics of before the soak and then recently when I put the old plugs back in imgur.com/a/4QHWIqK@@ETMotorsports

I can't recall the order of photos before the soak but the ones after are Cyl 1,2,3,4. I've ran two seafoams and an STP through the fuel system since getting the car in Sept. And also changed the injectors during the carbon cleaning.

eek yeah oven cleaner is hefty stuff...did you find it in liquid form or spray it in the cylinders?

@@ETMotorsports hi, normally its a spray but if you cut the can open its just like water,and poor it in. I used a plastic spray bottle. Not a can under pressure! Will give some troubles😬

Hello. Which product did you use instead of Berryman?

That’s also what I would like to know

@kkisielius4670 Did you have the oil smell on deceleration as well?

verylube anticarbon

Also subscribing for what you used. I figured B-12 is mostly toluene, acetone and methanol. I find many paint thinners have both toluene and acetone but methanol in them is not easy to find mixed or separate. I guess you could substitute for some other alcohol or just gasoline...

Awesome results!

Haha... appreciate it!

Awesome...glad the second soak is working out better... How did you figure the seals were leaking? I did them on the A4 before I did the soak thinking that's the cause of all the oil but it did nothing - they were fine after 180k and it's not exactly an easy job - if you're doing it right you'll likely have to go timing too

@@ETMotorsports because whenever I cold start my car, it spits a little bit of oil at the back which someone told me that’s not a piston rings issue it’s most likely the valve seals leaking over night leaving oil in the cylinders and then when I start it in the morning it just dumps it all the way at the back since I’m catless and also my car doesn’t seem to smoke when I’m on the gas pedal which that’s a piston ring sign, mine smokes when I let off the gas and im almost coming to a full stop

Hopefully it worked well...eek 60EUR for 2 cans is crazy lol

Hey fellow European, use Wynns Injection system purge - its simmilar to b12 and 1L costs ~20€

@@fine9186 uk based company? Thanks for the recommendation... I'll check the ingredients

I think its Belgium, but main thing is available everywhere in Europe Also there are videos (in russian) about using Wynns as piston soak: 'раскаксовка Wynns'

@@ETMotorsports So far it works. 2200Km's in and the dipstick says full.

That's not a bad point - honestly I haven't researched each oil in particular...Penzoil is readily available and within spec for that motor so that's what I use in all of my cars... all the rest of the stuff is special order usually and quite a bit more expensive

Liqui Moly do not make their own oil base, they just mix additives and AFAIK only one or very few of their oils have sufficient enough level of PAO to be really considered and based on some tests even the ones that have enough PAO lack on Esters. As I know pure PAO without Esters is bad for seals. BTW I am going with LM Molygen NG for my next oil change. Also some oils that are very good for more modern turbo engines may not be that great for engines that from 6-8 years ago, in some engines you might prefer lower viscosity in others - higher viscosity. You also need to consider amount of detergent components in oil, oil change intervals and driving style (idling, traffic jams and overheating are way more taxing than say highway driving). Realistically you should go by motor/hours for oil change and not pure mileage. Then you add fuel quality into the mix...

@@ETMotorsports the Motor Oil Geek here on YT has unquestioned information on oil quality. I think your Penzoil is fine. He demonstrates the differences between their various formulas, which you may find useful. There is another video where the demonstrate Valvoline that can clean . In the early 2000s he had to start making oil for his dad's NASCAR race team.

Interesting - the #3 on my A4 was also soaked in oil...I wonder if it's something to do with how the PCV air gets into the manifold... And YES! Don't pour on a hot engine - I did the same mistake thinking it'll be more effective... it just evaporated... good point!

I replaced the pcv over a year ago with no improvement. Sometime this month I'm going to do another full piston soak. In the meantime I'm real happy with the new found power, less hesitation and no more watching the oil level drop. Thank you and go Senators!

Great video. Engine flush works too! Thank you.

Keep us posted on your results

@@ETMotorsports Will do, I'm not going to drive it around after though. I'm just going to idle it for about 15 minutes. It's definitely burning oil at a good rate. 500 miles/quart roughly. Don't care to fix the issue entirely, but it would be nice to not have to check it weekly.

@@ETMotorsports Before the piston soak I drove 80 miles, the oil level dropped maybe 1/10th of a qt. After the soak it's been 200 miles, and the level hasn't budged. It's not the most concrete evidence but I'll take it as a win.

tthanks for the note...this doesn't surprise me...a handful of viewers have noted a decrease in compression and the engine running rougher after the first soak. The unfortunate reality of this method is you can't really control what the B12 is "cleaning" so it could just as well affect your compression rings if there's build up there too. That said - consecutive soaks "should" fix this as you keep cleaning build up around the piston rings. I am curious about your results after the second soak. Having done this a few times now, if I saw a decrease in performance after a soak, I would just keep doing a soak every oil change or as required until it's sorted out...might take a few tries depending on the condition of the motor

Please keep us posted with your results

Unfortunately Mannol 9970 is carb cleaner in spray form and our Hero is using B12 in liquid form which differs in chemical compunds. I am not saying it is not working but us(Europeans) should use Wynns Injection System Purge - w76695 which has simmilar compounds to b12

any updates

@@6lackRainthe car still didnt burn a drop of oil. engine runs smooth as. Occasionally smokes on cold start due to worn valve seals but thats fine with me.

Awesome results! Glad it worked

keep us posted on your results!

hey sorry for the issues you're having...kinda hard to diagnose this - if you have an air leak from somewhere that would explain the rough idle and the hard starts...any codes? this could be a ton of different issues...

@@ETMotorsports also got a P0300 and a P2310

@@mouad3858 2310 is a coil code, 0300 is misfire... check your coils to make sure they're seated correctly

Looking forward to the final results... the car runs rough after the first start for sure - I usually do about 30 min of driving before changing the plugs and the oil

hmmm - keep an eye on the consumption and let us know if it improves...the Q5 consumption slowed down during the first 5k and now I`m monitoring to see if it gets even better than the reported values...

So here's the update, the oil burning was measured in days, rather than miles or kilometers, prior to this. So far, after the initial loss of almost a quart, it hasn't moved after adding more. It still puffs out black smoke under hard acceleration, but nothing visual during idle and apparently not measurable in days like before. I put roughly 500 miles on the car since topping off the oil. I would say the problem is solved for now. even if this is something that has to be done every 30-50k miles, that's not the end of the world. I'll update you again in about a month.@@ETMotorsports

Anything update?

@@poopyheads5720 seems okay. I drive and idle a lot and it’s about a quart a month. Selling the vehicle now because I just did the claim but now it needs a turbo

Fingers crossed - keep us posted!

did it work?

No way to know for sure but these engines have pretty specific oil spec requirements so running diesel oil may cause other issues in the long run

I’m thinking of doing this as routine maintenance before every oil change at 5k miles intervals.

@@poopyheads5720 I think that’s a little much. Maybe every other oil change but I wouldn’t do it every oil change engines are designed to have carbon in it just not as much as these build up

I think a lot of folks have tried a lot of additives out there - we're all pretty much desperate to find a cheap solution to this issue but I haven't heard of anything that's permanently fixed it so far...

​@ETMotorsports you should pull the pulls and drop some new marvel mystery oil synthetic version. It had really good results in my gas 2.0t ford.

@@ETMotorsports Thank you for your response. Let's hope for the best.

Valvoline has the Restore & Protect oil, but they do not offer it for Audi specs yet. Maybe the 5W30 blend would be okay?

you can do either...or both...there's no hard rule here...I think both would help - if you rotate right after you put the liquid you can help it move around, if you rotate after it's drained, the soot should be soft so the rings can move around a bit...not that I think about it - just do both :)

Hey thanks for the info... the rings are just one of a thousand different things that can cause oil burning and smoke... valve seals are another common one, pcv etc... have you done a compression check? I'm curious about your cyl3...

Many thanks for that 👍 . Yes it's very likely that the seals are worn but I've gotten around that problem in the past with other cars by stabilising the oil and using the right grade etc but the problem with this car came on suddenly and the level of smoke and oil consumption is quite dramatic and I think is likely a piston ring issue along with other factors. I do intend to do a compression test and I also want to change the pcv. I am starting to see a noticeable reduction in smoke and oil consumption since I did the soak and added B12 to the oil and tank. If the compression was a lot lower in one cylinder compared to the others what would be the significance in terms of burning oil?

Awesome - did you follow the game same procedure?

Yes , same as you did in the first video

No reason why it shouldn't work... but white smoke is usually coolant

Honestly no wrong answer here... either works...i think top up and crank makes more sense as you'll have liquid that can penetrate

Hey I'm really glad this worked for you - thanks for the note! Those compression numbers are looking pretty low - any improvements after the soak?

@@ETMotorsports I forgot to mention. Thanks for the reply! The compression from 1-4 is now 175-170-180-175.

@Idontwantaname313 oh wow - that's a pretty big improvement... that's great - you're the first to report positive compression changes... the car should be running much better now too

@@ETMotorsports it’s running so well. I figured the compression would go up because on the last top off, the fluid pretty much stayed in the chamber. Initially it drained past the rings really fast. I noticed after every rotation that the fluid was taking longer and longer to drain. I owe it to you man. Thanks a million!

@@Idontwantaname313 love it!! Thanks for the feedback

Ignore this, you explained it already!

Thanks for the note - I`m sure there are plenty of products that can do this...all you need is a bunch of broken cars to try everything on :) One thing I`m pretty sure though is nothing you add to the fuel will fix the rings...I know they advertise this but there's just no way anything that gets in through the injector will be effective. At the very best you need an oil additive - at least that will get in the rings and not just the top of the piston...

fingers crossed!

yeah diesel is an easy alternative...it's also a lubricant so not too terrible to run through the motor

Multiple full revolutions... pretty much turn until you get bored

Hmm interesting question... keep in mind B12 is very diluted by the time it gets to your oil pan so I highly doubt it'll strip your paint... even paint stripper usually takes a while to flake up paint... when they say not to put that on paint it's not because it'll peel it off it just usually dulls it up kinda thing... similar to brake cleaner - it won't strip your paint but it'll leave some stains

@@ETMotorsports Thank you for your response. I think, I'll give it a shot. But since I have no garage, I'll have to wait until spring comes and weather gets a little bit warmer. I will certainly post an update once it's done.

hey another user reported the consumption getting worse after the first soak but then everything got sorted out after a second soak...it's very possible that the soak can have negative effects - we have no control over how the rings end up seating after the treatment...but you can redo the treatment multiple times to make sure everything gets sorted out

I Guess ill keep trying im still keeping my hopes up on this car, if nothing fixes im going to have to try and sell it@@ETMotorsports

So far so good! The black stuff would be all the softened up carbon buildup

if the plugs are out, the engine won't start...I use the starter at the final stage just before I put the plugs back in to blow any left over crap from the cylinders but ALWAYS spin the motor by hand multiple times before using the starter. If you want to turn off the fuel pump so the injectors aren't firing fuel while cranking you can pull the fuel pump fuse...I personally don't bother and just crank it as is. Once the plugs go back in, the engine will start...

I didn't take mine out so the injectors were firing but it's better to take it out...it won't hurt anything but you're just wasting fuel and spraying it in your garage if you keep the fuse in... keep us posted on your results!

@@ETMotorsports thanks for the reply! Keep up the great work by the way, your videos are super helpful. Will post results once I am all done.

​@@numus1727how'd your soak go?

I just found time to finally do this over the weekend. My notes on the process: - Hand cranking the engine takes a lot longer than I thought! But I highly recommend doing this step as after my first soak (and a 6 hour wait) 3 of the 4 cylinders had no b12 in them. The last cylinder gurgled a lot during the cranking which lead me to believe this was the one that had the stuck ring given the fluid was still present and had not made its way down into the sump. This also happened to be the piston with a wet spark plug. All others were dry. I believe the cranking loosened the soot in that cylinder/oil ring from that first crank. - The 2nd, 3rd, and 4th soak all cylinders ended up being empty which was a good sign. At each soak I added b12 at the 6 hours interval and then cranked the engine approximately 5-7 rotations after. - When the soak was complete I was fairly nervous and used the starter motor to turn the engine for a total of 60 seconds to evacuate all liquid that was present. Pro tip - put an old towel or rag over the spark plug holes to catch the soot that comes out. I didn't remove the fuel pump fuse as I did not feel it to be necessary. - Sparks plugs went back in as did coil packs etc and then it was the moment of truth. The car took about 4 attempts to start and when it came to life there was a bit of smoke, a very VERY rough idle for 15 mins and definitely a lot of mis-firing. I even had to rev the engine up to 2500/3000rpm to keep it alive at some points. I thought perhaps I had done something wrong (not replaced sparks or coils properly) so decided shut off the engine after the full 15mins. I ran it this long to give the b12 a chance to make its way through all the oil channels and to clean up the engine a little. Before taking it all apart though I figured I would start the car once more and it actually ran fine right from the get go. No more misfiring and it was a smooth idle. - After a quick oil + filter change I have now driven ~200km and car is noticeably smoother. It seems to have a little more torque when moving off a red light. Not a whole lot but it definitely feels like the car is gliding during that first bit of acceleration. Perhaps I had low compression before and did not know. I dont have a compression tool so was not able to measure before and after. - Perhaps too soon to tell if there is any major improvement but after a day and 200km of travel the oil level has not dropped. Previously after 200km of travel the oil guage would have dropped by between 1/4 to 1/3. So far this is looking promising and I am very happy. Even if the oil is still burning a little, the increase power and smoothness has been very much appreciate. Thanks again @ETMotorsports

Hmm...I haven't had any issues with leaks after this but I'll keep an eye longer term... you really only run this around for 20-30 min... don't think it'll cause any issues

Hmm mine were all over the place for draining - they weren't consistent... it sounds like everybody is seeing different stuff for draining

Awesome - glad it worked! All good questions- so far I haven't seen any correlation between which cylinders drain faster... in fact on mine it was different every time I poured liquid...I suppose with enough time and maybe a bad engine that's out of the car we can investigate by taking the pistons out first to check the initial state...

@@ETMotorsports part of me wonders if it is just slight differences in position against the walls or perhaps as material dissolves in one or the other. there did not seem to be any consistency when I added b12 second or 3rd times in the process, they were all over the place.

@@user-nn7jy1kw1z yeah same here... all over the place

Different problem altogether... but yes catch can will reduce valve buildup

High quality Synthetic oil and shorter oil changes.

Ugh...you shouldn't be seeing this on the later models since as far as I understand the pistons and rings were updated but you're not the only one reporting this problem so I guess they're still prone to it...I've heard of Rislone as well - might be worth a try for the next video :)

I’ve read ‘15 down was the accepted year range for these issues. This US spec Q3 was purchased as a used car with 30,000 miles and has been maintained by oil change shops to Audi’s specifications. 10,000 miles is too long for all but the highest quality Euro spec oils IMO. I’m going to try to keep oil changed every 5000miles with M1 0w-40 and top off with Rislone after it uses the 1st qt.

can the Rislone(I assume the engine treatment bottle) be left in the system for the entire cycle? I might try this soon@@GusMahn

@@alejandrocabeza1919 Rislone High Mileage Engine Treatment is the one I'll be using at 1bottle in 4-5 qts of oil for 3000-5000 miles, but the tech sheet says you can use two bottles for 100 miles for maximum cleaning.

I think your 2017 Q3 has the Gen 3 of the 2.0t engine (EA888). The engine in this video is an EA888 Gen 2. I know Audi / VW updated the PCV design with Gen 3 - I suspect the piston rings were updated as well.

Hey you don't have to turn the crank if you can't... it helps but the B12 will work either way

Turn the crank when you can even if only once. The 6 hours isn't a necessity. Try an engine flush like BG EPR.

Yup - pretty much the same engine... in fact you shouldn't be having these problems because they were apparently fixed in 2014 but many viewers have reported oil burning issues on later motors...

@@ETMotorsports Thank you for the reply and the videos!

definitely...that thing dissolves the carbon very well...the carbon buildup on top of the valves usually requires a bit of manual intervention though. After a soak you`ll still need a good brush in there to clean up the tops - soak alone won't do it...

Hmm at the moment it's unclear how long this "fix" could last... technically speaking if you're keeping up with 5k oil change intervals you may be ok for a while... no parts to change and no need to see mechanic unless you've got other issues...

Unfortunately an engine flush isn't enough - you need the soak overnight to solve this

Keep going until you can't see liquid shooting out... unless you pull the fuel pump fuse you'll see some gas coming out too but it's a small amount

yeah that's a good point...the reality is there's no way to know what the condition of each motor is so there are 1000 things that can go wrong if the motor is in a rough shape...generally speaking if your pickup gets clogged the engine will through a low pressure warning and you can react in time to save the rest of the motor...a few viewers have noted issues after performing this service but there's little details on what the condition of each motor was prior to the service...

I would not do this, both of those products are thinners which means that your oil will be nowhere near the required level of viscosity, and it will most likely destroy your engine. It also won't help as the problem is the piston rings and to help you need to soak them from above

yeah I agree with the previous comment...although I have run Seamfoam for a longer flush before....you can add some to your oil (say 100ml) and drive around with it for a bit...unfortunately while this will clean up a lot of build-up from your motor I don't think it will do much for the rings

As I’ve read it Seafoam is a pale (light) oil with Naptha and alcohol. The solvents will evaporate very quickly. I don’t see this doing much good, though I doubt it’ll damage the engine.

that's a good point...you`ll likely just fill in the piston crown...I suppose you could try to pour the liquid around the edges but that will be hard through a glow plug opening

hey great point...actually if the car is using a stamped steel pan it's almost 100% guaranteed that it's painted...that said the B12 should be pretty diluted in the oil pan - the ratio is like 8:1 with oil but that's not to say it won't screw the paint up...

Yeah that's what I would try...basically replace B12 with Proline engine flush - hopefully it's strong enough to have similar effects... keep us posted on your results - a few other people have asked about using LiquiMoly as well

@ETMotorsports ok thank you very much, don't wait for my results because I will do it at the beginning of 2024, I don't use my car much at the moment, it's a V6 TFSI supercharger so I wonder if it poses a problem to do with a V engine, 2 banks of cylinders, 1-2-3 and 4-5-6?

@@Philou9277 no shouldn't be an issue - we have multiple viewers who have been successful with their 3.0T

@@ETMotorsports last little question, the top of the pistons is well scalded, could this pose a problem after the 24 hour treatment?

So, how did it go? As I type the b12 is soaking my pistons, i'm half an hour away from the 1st six hours!@@Philou9277

Your call really... leaving it in does a very strong engine flush... the oil goes through the rings with b12 so I think it's your best bet for getting the best results

@@ETMotorsports yes I was thinking that it would be important. I’ve seen a couple reports of people reporting rod bearing failure after the b12 soak. From the reports I’ve read: 1. Have not seen anyone report it for the Audi seems to be Toyota 2. They seem to take the car for a strong drive with the B12 in the case I will be doing this for a 2010 2.0 TDI I will report on the results because I could not find anyone reporting results with a TDI. $129 to get 3 cans of B12 to Europe from eBay. Ebay was the only place to get it in Europe. Just to let anyone know struggling with the oil burning issue in Europe