I money shifted from 4th to 3rd. And the noise sounds like it’s coming from the timing cover and oil pan side. I’m guessing this has something to do with the noise and problem I have, lots of vibration all the way into the cabin, poor acceleration and whining rattling noise when rpm’s go up
Super helpful to see the solution yall went with to address the Recaro fitment issue, may end up using the same approach when I get my hands on sportsters. I’m 6ft1, have the steering column extender. Nice music selection
K20 pump revs higher? I can see that the sprocket is bigger on K20 pump (T count, or diameter), so actually it revs lower... If it revs lower, it may give too little pressure for the lubrication system. Also, why you can't rev over 7800 RPM with K24 pump? If the balancers do their job it should be very beneficial for the high reving engine - doesn't it... Still can't see the point of exchanging the pump.
Your oil pump does not rev the engine does and the k20 oil pump allows the engine to rev higher when you port it because it moves oil a lot faster decreasing the risk of cavitation. K20a2 oil pump is better so is the K20a2 cylinder head
I have a high flow catted down pipe and didn't get a CEL. I would definitely get this if the extension for the o2 sensor didn't work .I live in cali... im not looking forward to removing all my non carb legal mods before smog and then having to reinstall them afterward. Tis ridiculous 😢
Depends on the year of the Honda OEM ECU (newer OEM ECUs are a lot more powerful than older ECUs) Generally a Haltech (Elite) will be a more powerful ECU and offer features that Hondata can’t ie drive by wire, sequential injection, TCU integration, etc If you’re driving on the street then I’d say stick with Hondata. If it’s a track / race car you may want to look into Haltech.
A ported PRB pump can handle 9k easy. What about the rest of the motor? Nope. So what’s the point if you’re stock ish. Stock cams make no power above 8400.
Faux (pronounced fo) is French for false. Faux leather is a fancy way of saying vinyl. Thumbs-up for saving another Integra from going to the junkyard. It's sad to see how some of them go into disrepair like they do. I've owned my 94 Integra GSR for 30 years and kept it in mint condition. Today at 91,200 kilometers, the car still has its original brakes except for new pads in 2017. Restoration will be something my son will have to do someday after I'm long gone.
Guessing that you will eventually find destroyed main and/or con rod bearings. They are the first thing to go when you have oil starvation. My '79 911SC was no different 🙂
@@walshmoracingBore scoring comes from bad oil, not enough oil, overheating, cylinder deformation, so yes, possibly also, maybe even likely. But the oil pressure drop points to worn plain bearings, as they play a crucial role in keeping it up.
Sorry you’re dealing with this. Had a 2005 997.1 in same exact color also a Carrera S 6 speed. Mine was a salvage title. Was my dream car but sold it after a few years due to repair bills like a $1200 60,000 mile service bill and $700 to replace the oil filler valve that pops up to put oil in car where you unscrew cap, part broke off. Was using an independent repair shop too. IMS bearing and Rear Main Seal were always on my mind as was bore scoring. Still miss this car they are special but too much of a headache. Engine replacements are around $20,000 but probably more now if you can even find one. One option of a rebuild is on the table most to go to 4.0 from 3.8.
Thanks for the kind words! These 997’s can be a ton of fun especially for the price, it just sucks that the engine is a ticking time bomb. I’m thinking I’ll most likely be going with a 4.0 rebuild - I want to make this car special, I think im going to keep it for a while and turn it into my own “997 GT3 Touring”!
