Thanks for the comment! Yep, I skipped over it in my brake video too, but then got several questions about it and it reminded me that it can be tricky to remove if it is stuck on with grit and it isn't exactly clear how it unclips. Thanks again!

Yes, definitely. If you count the number of turns when you take the old one off and match that number of turns when you install the new one, then you can get it kind of close but you will definitely want to have an alignment done. It doesn't take too much toe alignment error to cause really bad tire wear.

@@JohnsDIY thanks, what about replacing the inner one? Does that need to be replaced too?

@@DanJordy No, I would not recommend replacing the inner joint unless there is play in it. In my experience, the outer tie rod ends are the ones that more commonly fail and it is quite uncommon to have any problem with the inner joints. However, if you are replacing one bad outer tie rod end, then in my opinion you might want to replace it on both sides and then get an alignment. Normally, I don't think having one bad outer tie rod end is indicative of a failure on the other side but with this generation Accord, it seems that the outer tie rod ends are failing much sooner than generally was experienced on earlier generations (based on my experience, post from others) so it probably would be a good idea to do both outer tie ends if you have one that has gone bad.

@@JohnsDIY thanks for the quick reply! I did the clamp trick you showed and it removed the movement in the joint, so I think it’s only the outer. I’ll look at replacing both outers though. How long can I wait before getting the alignment after replacement? 10miles? 100 miles? I wanted to get the bad one done ASAP so the car is safe, but then find a convenient time to do the alignment. Thanks so much!

@@DanJordy That's a good question, but hard to answer because it depends on how close you happened to get the alignment via the counting-turns method. If you are conscientious about that then it would help and personally I would be comfortable going 100 miles since I don't expect that could result in much abnormal tire wear even if the toe was out a bit.

Which light is flashing? If you are still having SRS trouble codes after installing the new airbag indicator then it likely means there is some other issue. You will need to read the trouble codes to know what is going on.

No, I haven't run into that on the Honda. What makes you think it is the slide pins making the noise though? I have had a squeaking on other vehicles due to not having enough lube between the pad and its backer plate (where the backer plate was one or two separate metal pieces). On the Honda, my pads don't have separate backing plates though. Did your replacement pads have separate metal backing plates? If so maybe worth adding some lube between them? What brand of rotors/pads did you use? Let us know what you find!

Yes! Good question! Someone else asked about that once so I tried it out and a fresh 9V battery does drive the motor. Not surprisingly, it does turn a lot more sluggish than with a 12V battery, but I think you could get the job done with it! Here is my previous reply: " @lizhiliao4614 I tried it out and a fresh 9V battery was indeed able to drive the parking brake motor! It definitely turned slower and sounded a little sluggish compared to driving it at 12V (not surprisingly) but it worked just fine. I was able to drive the caliper piston out and then retract it just fine. Thanks for mentioning that as that might be a good option for a lot of folks! A nice side benefit of doing it that way is that you can't really create any problems with that approach (shorting out and melting terminals for example) due to the limited amperage of the 9V battery. Good idea!"

Thanks for the nice comment! Appreciate it!

I hear you! So on the 2014 it didn't have the integrated parking brake in the caliper? My 2007 Accord had a manual parking brake that was integrated in the caliper, so it still needed to be wound back by spinning the piston.

Oh, bummer! I assume the solution was to replace the airbag cutoff indicator too? Thanks for the comment!

Thanks for the nice comment! Unfortunately, I am not certain whether the same approaches work on the Acura MDX. On the Accord, you can unplug the parking brake motor and it does not create any messages on the dash or set any trouble codes AS LONG AS you leave the ignition off until you plug them back in. If you have the ignition turned on with the parking brake connector unplugged then it does set trouble codes and dash warnings (it senses the open circuit and thinks there is an issue). I imagine that would be the same on the Acura, but can't say for certain.

No, sorry I don't. Do you have failed injectors? I have heard that this has become a common problem on many Hondas. At least on some models, it seems like there was an assembly issue which caused the premature failure. On some models the warranty on the fuel injectors has been extended. So you might check with the dealer if there is a warranty extension or if they might work with you on this issue.

@@JohnsDIY just wanna know for future reference. I have 2018 Honda accord 1.5 around 44k miles. No issues with my car. I’ve done all the maintenance but like you know with these 1.5 a lot issues on some… thanks for the feedback

@@blackhawks1870 Thanks for the reply! Glad to hear no issues for you so far. I haven't had any major issues either and have over 170k miles so far on my 2018. I do have the outstanding recall for the fuel pump replacement but last I talked to the dealer, they still didn't have any fuel pumps in stock to do the recall at this point.

@@JohnsDIYyou should call other Honda dealerships near you, I called one and they’d had like 3 available I set up appt for 4 days later bc my tank was full. Service rep said it would be best if the tank wasn’t full. So I had to waste my gas lol

@@blackhawks1870 Thanks for the info! It has been a little while since I checked so I will check again and if not check some other dealers. Thanks!

There are several places online which sell OEM Honda parts. I often use Majestic Honda (hondaautomotiveparts.com). They have locations in Rhode Island and Massachusetts which leads to quick shipping in the Northeast. I have always had good experiences buying from them.

I'm happy to hear that, and thanks for the comment!

I usually just use a plastic bristle brush (to not damage the rubber boot) and some brake cleaner. What method did you use to retract the inner piston? If the inner piston is not retracted (via running the motor, rotating the shaft, rotating the piston or entering maintenance mode on a scan tool) then you will not be able to just push in the outer piston.

Hello thanks for the reply I have not done the job yet but I'm planning on doing it soon I have a 2019 Honda insight I will be using the wind back method until it stops spinning then push the piston back in this will be my first time doing brakes with the epb any tips would be highly appreciated

@@luiscarrera5181 I see. In my experience, it is quite unusual to have any problem pushing back the piston due to rust/corrosion. On a vehicle only 5 years old I don't think you will have any problem. One thing I would recommend though. When you start rotating the piston, make sure that the boot is not rotating with it because you don't want the boot to get bunched up or damaged. If the boot is starting to rotate with the piston, you can just work it back and forth a bit until the boot frees up from the piston. I think you are referring to the comment that I made about wanting to use the hand pushback tool to feel the resistance. I have had a few times where it was very hard to push the piston back in and this did lead to issues down the road (sticky piston and excessive pad wear on that one wheel). In this unusual case, I think the only solution is to rebuild the caliper (remove the piston, clean it, replace the square cut seal) or get a new caliper. However, I think this is highly unlikely to be an issue on a 5 year old vehicle unless the boot had a tear in it or something. Good luck with the brake job!

Yep, If you search on ebay or Amazon for "duck head" you will find a bunch. Like this one: www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0CSFWP3SF/

Thanks for the comment! Are you sure that the error code was caused by windback w/o being in maintenance mode though? A common cause for the situation you describe (brake error code after brake job) is if you ever turn the vehicle on while the electric parking brake electrical connector is disconnected. This will definitely cause brake system error codes. I have never had any codes set after manually winding back a Honda caliper with EPB (electronic parking brake). Also, the Honda OEM service data includes procedures for parking brake retraction both using the HDS/Scantool/maintenance mode as well as without using a scan tool. The procedure it specifies for retraction w/o using a scantool is to simply remove the actuator and wind the shaft back by hand. It makes no mention of having to clear codes after (and in fact is the procedure if a scan tool is not used). Finally, the brake actuator has only two wires going to it. There is no position sensor or other telemetry. It is "calibrated" simply by turning on the parking brake. The motor turns on until the current increases indicating that it has fully engaged. So there is no real "calibration" of the parking brake - it simply recalibrates every time it is turned on. Therefore, there is no loss of calibration when the parking brake is manually rewound. If anyone is able to replicate this situation, I would be very interested if you were able to read back the codes and see what it is complaining about. Thanks!

Thanks for the nice comment! Appreciate that!

Haha, that would be great to be neighbors and trade repair stories! Good question! I replaced the brushes just for preventative maintenance, but it was probably much earlier than it needed to be done since even at 125k miles, the brushes were only about halfway worn down, so it seems like they would easily have made it to 200k miles or more. I have predominantly highway miles, so on a vehicle with more city miles, the brushes might wear out at somewhat lower mileage, but at 50k I expect there would be minimal brush wear. I put on a lot of miles and keep vehicles for a long time. My last Accord made it to 400k miles! So I look for these kinds of things to prevent problems down the road. Thanks for the comment!

I got it directly from the no-mar website. However, that was a while ago and now it looks like their products are white instead. Looks like they still have the same bar available though (just with the changed color). However, I did find that the no-mar bar could damage the tire bead unless you were really careful. That is why I now use the duckbill instead.

Yes, I believe that is correct. Maintenance mode causes the parking brake motor to run until the inner piston is fully retracted. However, it cannot pull in the outer piston since that just floats over the inner piston so that simply has to be pushed in which can be done without turning it.

Thanks for the nice comment!

Thanks for the nice comment and good luck with the water pump replacement! Let us know how it goes if you think of it!

@@JohnsDIY Just tackled it tonight. The one bolt on the back of the water pump was more of a pain than I expected, but I ultimately got it done once I figured out the correct combination of sockets and extensions. Thanks again for the video.

@@jobo1004 Yep, I'm with you - That bolt in the back is a real bugger to get to! Nice work getting the job done!

Thanks for the comment Steve! You have definitely got me beat on experience. I've only ever used this manual, hobbyist tire changer and never a commercial tire changer. However, I'm not sure what you mean about running it reversed? Do you mean the spin direction? I believe I was using the same effective rotational direction as is used on all the commercial automated tire changers I have seen. What might be confusing is that normally (on automated machines) the wheel rotates and the duckhead is stationary whereas on manual machines like this, the wheel is stationary and the duckhead rotates. On all the commercial tire changers I have seen (links to a few videos below for example), the tire spins in the clockwise direction. For the manual tire changer, this is equivalent to spinning the duckhead in the COUNTERCLOCKWISE direction, as I was doing in this video. Rotating the wheel clockwise is equivalent to rotating the duckhead counterclockwise. Notice that in the videos below using commercial tire changers as well as in my video with the manual changer, the trailing edge of the tire exits over the "bill" part of the duckhead because the relative rotation is the same. But let me know if you think differently or if I misunderstood your comment or if you know of other tire changers which operate differently. Here are a few examples of commercial tire changers, showing the wheel rotating clockwise (when looking down at it), which corresponds to rotating the duckhead counterclockwise in the manual tire changer: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-8hOZXIr1ujE.html www.youtube.com/watch?v=BsOUtR_lT ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-BsOUtR_lTeE.html

Nope, I haven't replaced the drive belt tensioner pulley on mine. However, I did remove the belt tensioner assembly to get access to the water pump. If you want to see removal of the whole tensioner assembly, it is at about 19:00 in the following video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-hslktGrHUeY.html It looks like the tensioner pulley is removed with just one bolt through the pulley. You might consider just replacing the whole tensioner assembly since the cost of the pulley plus the tensioner is more than the cost of the entire assembly. I agree, it makes sense to me to replace it if it is starting to rattle. Good luck with the repair!

@@JohnsDIY that is incredibly helpful! Thank you very much

Hi there. Well, it depends on the details. If just the outer piston slid off and the inner piston (which screws on to the rod) is still in place, then you should be fine. You can just push the outer piston back on, wind the piston back in and you should be good. However, if the inner piston unscrewed all the way then you will probably see little ball bearings coming out and it will be very difficult to reassemble because I don't know how you will get the ball bearings back in place. Let me know if that makes sense to me. I could send a picture if you don't see what I mean there.

Okay... soo... I started by taking out the wheels and then the caliper from the right side. I took out the old break pads, then I continued pushing the piston, until I realized I need it a specific tool to twisted like you show on the video, then I saw that you need it the computer to put it on maintenance mode, so I started searching for videos about how to do it manually, then I came across this video, where it said that there's a special way, by pressing the parking button a specific way, I fell for it and the piston went out of the "shell" after that I try twisting it back in with some pliers and it did went back but not like pushing it it was all twist

Sorry for the long text lol, I asked my friend for his computer and I put the car on maintenance mode, the left side was good it just needed the pushing but the right I think still bad, because all the panel lights are on like the (VSA, ABS, Break amber, and Break on red

​@@JohnsDIYyeah it makes sense! I watched your video and I'm like... "I still have hope that it'll get fix!"😢

@@luiscolorado4708 I see, if the outer piston went back on and you were able to screw it all the way back in, there is a good chance that everything should be okay. You might try cycling the parking brake on and off several times and see if the panel lights clear. There are very few electrical diagnostics that the PCM performs on the brake so there aren't many problems that it can detect. In fact, the only thing it can sense is the motor current into the parking brake motor.