8020 Media owns and operates a portfolio of content websites and eCommerce stores in the Automotive industry. We provide over a million monthly readers with high-quality automotive content, focused predominantly on technical and performance modification guides. On this channel, you can expect automotive informational videos, business build-offs, and more.
Very nice and detailed description. The best thing I liked is that the video was to the point without any time wasting talking like many other car repair videos do. High quality presentation which was very helpful. Thank you!
I use my 5.3 for towing. What can I do to add more low end torque? I already have a stage 2 cam, upgraded valve springs, push rods, etc, long tube headers, flowmaster exhaust, cold air intake, and I want more power. Thanks
R - Seems like you've done a ton to it already and sounds like a sick build. There's not much more, but maybe looking into re gearing would be a good idea. Keep us updated.
@@8020Mediathanks. I’ll look into re gearing. I recently heard about stall converters but I don’t know what that is so I’ll look into that too. Thanks again!
I have a 2014 Fusion titanium and right at about 126,000 miles. recently started having a bad oil leak (not sure from where) and secondly, I feel like coolant is being heavily consumed too as the reservoir is low after adding a little into it
Had same problem on 96 ford vanand it was the speed cluster that sits behind speedometer. Nobody mentions thus. Speed sensor sends signal to cluster then to PCM
B - Probably the 5.0. All depending on maintenance and needs though. Here's a good video for your research: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-X7FNIhVxqyQ.html
My truck starts fine in the morning. If i turn it off after running for 20 minutes, it will start again right away, but if it sits for 30 or so minutes after running, it has a slow start. Any idea here?
I drive both a F22 218i B48 even though it’s heavily detuned from factory with 136 bhp and I also drive an X3 M40i B58 350 bhp on a daily basis, the joy I get from the X3 is the pure power and sound of the B58 when driving it in a straight line with my foot fully down on the gas whereas my 2 Series B48 is so much more fun, light with the handling and steering and feels like a go kart around town but again of course it just lacks in the power straight line category. I drive both cars on Eco Pro mode with daily normal sensible driving and I’m well impressed with my B48 2 Series, hardly feels no different than the B58 but again only when sensibly driving them that you think do you really need a powerful B58 when the B48 is just enough. But I know I’m comparing a coupe to an SUV which both totally different cars and in a way can not really be compared in terms of driving experience but nonetheless it’s all about needs and depending on your situation but both such great amazing engines.
I - Could also be battery related. Have you tested it? Here's a good video for your research: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-0YRdzJbHcm4.html
Have high mileage Mustang 302 and it suddenly started blowing a couple of seconds of blue/gray smoke after interstate driving for at least 15 minutes. When I exit interstate, decelerate and then merge onto regular road and accelerate in 2-3 gear, it will blow a couple of seconds of blue/gray smoke and then clears up. I can drive in city, idle fine, runs like a top. I just did a complete tune-up and resealed engine and there are no vacuum leaks and the car runs beautiful except for the occasional smoke after high speed driving. I did take out spark plugs and only 1 plug was a greasy/oily mess. I think the oil is getting sucked up through the upper manifold via the pcv valve and then sent to the combustion chamber during high vacuum driving(interstate). Would a bad valve seal on that one cylinder that has an oily spark plug have a bad valve seal. I don’t think it’s a bad piston ring on that one cylinder, but I could be wrong. What do you think?
on my 2003 my alternator gauge is registering high it went over 19 ,, and i removed the positive cable and waited a few minutes and it came back down,, but still crawls up to 19.. it neve went to zero.. what is your advise ?? thanks,, also dash lights are not working
Someone help please taken my car to 3 garages and still not fixed. 2009 Ford explorer. I be riding down the st. When I stop my car start puffing and sometimes shut off. They have replace a lot of the sensors,tune up,etc and still doing it. What you think it can be
M - These videos could be helpful in your research: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-BiYsqRJCLhE.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-7bqAIbYRdnc.html
Getting the flashing tow/haul truck is wanting to almost die like stall when I come to a stop or while in park the dash like flickers/dims and trucks acting like it’s kinda missing while in park
S - We have some videos that may be useful here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-BiYsqRJCLhE.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ipjYLPJgpq8.html
Hi..thx for fuel filter info.. my issue on 2008 4.6 mustang.. car is running fine but gas gauge went from full to showing empty then next drive back to full again then to empty.. dash shows engine light on..dash says dte fli data error.. fuel low sensor..any help is appreciated.. thx
All power in the video work, but when I turn to crank the car, I don’t hear no clicking sound, only a buzzing sound of faint buzzing sound. 2 minutes before the car stop cranking period, it start slowly cranking until it seized from cranking all together
L - These videos should be useful in your research: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-_80Lcb0_aGY.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-0YRdzJbHcm4.html
Just came across your video, I have a 2017 Chevy Tahoe and the ABS light comes on along with the brake like which causes the steering wheel to not really move, but once I turn the car off and back on it goes away but the stability track and steering wheel reduction message stays on the dashboard. I had the spark plugs and coil changed, as well as the angle sensor and the air bag clock spring.
First, great video! I had a caliper that was sticking and replaced it but that tire is still sticking but not all the time. I took the lid off and took out some fluid. The rubber seal on the lid was popped out so popped it back in and did fine but a couple days later same thing, new caliper sticking so repeated again and did fine on way to work. I thought I blead the brake after installing the caliper but maybe not well enough. Could the issue be air? When i changed it the hose drained really fast.
I went out to check the car at lunch and, keep in mind that it was parked on a slight downgrade, but there seemed to be more fluid in the reservoir than I remember from when I bled them last evening. When I changed the caliper the fluid did drip at a decent rate.
i have a 2015 5.0 with 152k miles, it just started using about 5 quarts of oil in 5k miles but before the oil issue it was needing coolant about every service oil change. Any thoughts?
It is misleading when you say the Gen 4 motors have AFM, making them less reliable. AFM does make them less reliable, but not all the Gen 4's have AFM. Both the L76 and L96 do not have AFM.
What if the code only reads p0300 and doesn't say a specific cylinder? I know it may be multiple but how do I know which ones? It's has to be a ignition coil because I changed the plugs
I’m having these symptoms issues with my car and when I put gas in my car it stutters to turn on and have to press on the gas to fully get it to start could you lmk what you think?
@@8020Media theyve been alternating sometimes even month without code but I get canister codes purge solenoid and or high purge code....I replaced purge solenoid it seemed to subside for little while but it went back into the cycle of showing then not....after watching this video you are definitely on to something with the fluttering rpm and the systems going into a safety mode turning off...ABS stabiltrak and TC all give service warnings at the same interval and it seems to be when put in to gear say a minute after firing up vehicle...if i let warm up for 5 mins and stay in Drive it seems fine but reverseing then driveing it throws up more frequently....if im doing town driving first or second 🛑 sign i get warnings if I have warmed up motor an trans and steady motion it seems to not detect issue....im leaning towards spark plug maintenance and looking into the evap codes....any ideas or info are appreciated greatly....this video broke down A LOT! 🙏
Praying my starter is bad and not something wrong with the anti theft system on my 97 ford ranger. It acted like a dead battery about 1 out of 3 times trying to start over the last week. Just get a CLICK when trying to turn the key. I was able to push it and bump start it okay (luckily its a stick). Checked the battery is putting out 12.5v and when I bump start and get it running, alternator is putting out 14.2v. Also checked the solenoid is getting power, it sparks when you put a wrench across it.
so i have a 2007 chevy malibu ls 2.2 engine and I'm getting a po449 code also, i went and bought a purge valve to hopefully get my check engine light off, do you think it will be that purge valve like in your video or the vent valve
@@8020Media knowing my luck it will be the vent valve lol, the purge valve and gas cap i ordered should be delivered tomorrow, i should have it replaced and let you know if the code got erased, you did a great job on the video, keep up the good work