Drawing on its experience as an OE supplier to car and truck manufacturers around the globe, the SKF Vehicle Service Market segment supplies automotive and heavy duty aftermarket parts for drivetrain, engine and wheel end components.
I LOVE how they just skip how they got the center section out/loose!!! You also completely missed how to re-seat the center section!!!! THUMBS DOWN! for not showing what is possibly the hardest part.
What size press are you using? Also, i would have loved to see how that bearing seperator worked in conjunction with the press. There aren't any videos that address this.
My situation... 25 year old van with 110,000 miles, A big rust hole in the rocker panel but not much anywhere else. I think I can get easily get another 5 to 10 years out of the engine, the body might stay nice for 5 years. SKF Bearings are $150. SKP bearings are $50. I don't do much highway driving. Wheel bearings usually growl when they go bad. Lots of warning before you lose a wheel (no scare tactics here). Should I spend the extra $100? or am I getting enough quality from the $50 bearing to last me another 5-10 years? Normally, I wouldn't cheap out, SKF and Timken are quality bearings.
I see some questions that are not answered. For these axles the bearing roller actually rolls on the axle shaft vs. rolling on an inner bearing race which is not a preferred design as the axle shaft surface is not nearly as hard as a bearing race. Over time the axle bearing contact area becomes worn or pitted. The best solution is to replace the axles which are typically less than $150 each which includes the new bearings and seals. The alternate solution is to use the Axle Repair Bearings. These bearings move the rolling surface on the axle outward to a new unworn surface. The problem with these is they also protrude from the axle tube which makes it difficult at time to be able to push the axle in far enough to ore-install the axle c-clips without damaging the new seals. The repair bearings also do not last as long as the original. You may get 40,000 miles or you may get 10,000 miles out of these. If your doing your own labor it maybe cost effective but if your paying someone it is cheaper in the long run to get new axles. Also, to remove the repair bearings (which are hammered into the axle tube) the best way is to remove the seal, inner bearing retainer, slide the bearing out of the housing, then run a bead of weld n the ID of the bearing race and it will shrink the bearing enough to alloy you to easily pull out the bearing. This also does not damage the axle tube. At this point you can either install a new repair bearing or a new axle and original bearing and seal. Hope this helps someone.
That spacer that people are asking about is actually a retainer ring and it goes on after the bearing according to the parts diagram I found on an oem parts site. I also called several driveline shops and they confirmed it also. They said you don't have to use it that its overkill from the factory but you can if you want. So if you had to cut yours off and didn't get a new ring with the new bearing. Your good to go with out the ring.
About 95% of all auto parts are now made in China and that includes most parts for Japanese cars. I bet you my money that this SKF part is also made in fukin China. This guy from SKF is blowing smoke up your asses! I love it!
Axle nut torque is not critical,100% impossile to fully torque the axle nut.Called a couple ugga dugas with an impact which will not cause premature wheelbearing failure
To be clear, it looks like a passenger side knuckle 1: push the hub out from the inside of the knuckle(the side the faces the car) outwards toward the wheel studs 2: push the bearing out by pressing it from the OUTSIDE to the inside. 3: push the new bearing in from the INSIDE of the knuckle to the outside
Bought SKF because they are regarded as one of the best manufacturers still out there and they are made by decent manufacturers. I'm hoping it's worth the investment. Time and mpg will tell..
Although there was a recommendation to grease the outer-race of the bearing and the knuckle when pressing the bearing, there was no recommendation for greasing the inner-race of the bearing and the hub when pressing the hub. Was this an oversight or not?
Hi. I recently installed one of these bearings but it has a seal on both sides. The bearing came with some grease and then I packed it even more with some of the red stuff. I didn’t know if this was suitable or not because nobody has instructions for the bearings that are sealed off from the diff. Will just grease be sufficient or does the bearing need to be filled with gear lube. I’m betting on grease, but it is a shame that I can’t find an actual answer for these bearings.
I'm guessing since the new bearing has a seal on both ends...it will use grease for lubrication instead of gear oil, because oil can't get to the bearing. Let me know how it worked out. I looking at installing similar type bearings and you're right...no instructions anywhere. lol
@@flecktards3126 Ok, I will pack as much grease as possible. Probably using moly lithium high pressure grease. Glad it's working and thanks for the update!
can you press to hard? i finally bought all the stuff to do this, and my first two attempts both the replacement bearings are dead. i pushed from the outside ring on the bearing -> knuckle press, and i pressed only on the inside race when pushing the hub -> bearing. the only thing i can think of is pushing to hard on the hub -> bearing press and getting one of the inside races wrong.
