You get more leverage with a curved handle. The angle of your hand is always higher than the head. Meaning the head is lower than your hands so the head is always more forward. Like they say punch past the the object. So you hit your target before the end of the strike. This is what happens with these handles.
Great video just the information I was looking for. I’m making a rescue axe right now and I have a straight handle and wasn’t sure if I should put some curve in it. Also it’s a full tang axe with a 13 and 5/8 inch handle from the top of the head to the end of the handle. I got some great information from your video thanks.
looking great for a beginner, but just like someone else said those fumes are killer. I recommend getting a respirator with some 3M 2097 filters. Keep up the good work👍
Hey bro just a little friendly advice from a TIG welder, try to keep your head out of the fumes. If you don’t have a fume extractor you can temporarily rig a shop vac to suck the fumes away. When people start welding seeing the puddle can be difficult so maybe try a magnifying lens. I’m not sure about your hood but on the inside cheek they sometimes have the part numbers. Keep up the good work, the only way to get better is by burning rods. 👍
been a few years since the last time i did the stick welding, i found i much liked gas welding more (it is cooler and more fun) glad i took that class, and glad i never took it again.
Don't touch the metal with the stick just swipe it and thats it, quick tip I heard from a old timer if you welding with 6011 get some WD40 and spray the 6011 stick and then use it. It helps alot
I've only hung a few axes up until now but imo you want the orientation sideways and not lengthwise because I could see it slipping out more easily if it is lengthwise. Sure the wedge is mor likely to split when it is sideways but like you said you can still drive it in that way, good luck doing that with two wedges driving each other up. Regarding the expanding wedge.. doesn't Oxenkopf have a screw on top of some their eyes? Maybe they've already done it, never unscrewed mine though.
Billhooks have a very long history in they UK. Traditionally they are associated with coppicing and hedge laying. Different patterns evolved in different regions. The main advantage I see of the billhook over the machete and "Sandvik" is that it works well in a confined space where there's limited room to swing. The curved end enables you to hack across the base of woody growth without it catching in the earth, or reach into a hedge to cut at brambles and such like with just a flick of the wrist and a tug.
This wartime public informattion film is the best example I've found online of using a billhook in its "natural environment" by someone who really knew what they were doing. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-WoprVhpOKIk.html I see that Sandvik and shudder; it's an ugly inelegant contraption that looks especially suited to getting caught and tangled in a thorny hedge!
The one used in this video has the elegant simplicity of a Devon billhook, whereas the one I own is a Stafford pattern, similar to the Devon but with a flat blade of 4" or so along the back of the blade, towards the top. The Yorkshire pattern is longer and broader, shaped a bit like a paddle with the blade extending the full length on both sides and ending with a hooked tip on one edge. The Yorkshire billhook lends itself well to a longer handle for two handed use. Long handled billhooks were often the weapon of choice of the mediaeval footsoldier and I've seen a painting of enslaved plantation workers cutting sugar cane using billhooks similar to my own Stafford billhook.
Heck yeah awesome kevin !!! I was really looking forward to this video, I’m happy for you man !! She sounds and looks like a real ripper 🤘!! Sucks that it took so long to get it in your hands, hope it was worth the wait, seems like it is to me !! Looking forward to more 🤙
Nice work Kevin, nice to see you learning to weld. I’ve been welding for a while man I love it. If you need any help or have any questions hit me up. Flux core can definitely be a little tricky to dial in. Great job man every time you get the welder out you’ll get a little better, like anything else it’s all about the time put in. 🤙
If I weld with gas instead of gasless fluxcore will I get less splatter? Doesn’t really matter for the shit I’m tacking together, “a grinder and paint make a welder what he ain’t,” but it does annoy me. Or do I just need to focus on running a steadier pool with a consistent stand off? Instead to try gas, but this is what I’ve got at the moment.
@@KevinsDisobedience if the surface you are welding isn't clean, the heat will vaporize the paint, rust and dirt. You shouldn't need to grind at all. Make sure you leave a little air hap between parts being welded to let the weld have somewhere to go. Ground and welding surface both need to be clean. Weld in a motion like a figure 8 like you are sewing two pieces together. One straight line isn't the right way. Don't tack weld the whole weld. One continued bead without stopping. If you don't, the weld will not sufficiently penatrate the metals. Take some classes at the tech school?
I already know that a lot of welders disagree with all of that. No manipulation of the bead is needed for bonding. That’s well documented. Root pass in standard. So you really weld?
Much respect for Cody. He was treated badly by the producers in my humble opinion. His star was rising until the rat bastards got jealous of his popularity.
