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Are you familiar with those “dummy” books from the 90’s? That’s what worked for me. I like your video & have watched many videos on dying and there seems to be dozens of ways to dye leather using the same color. From prep to alcohol vs oil, to leather prep versus no prep to post finish etc., and too many products to mention. For folks like me that are new to leather, what is the best/easiest and most affordable dye type and process? Pro or non-pro Fiebings? Before watching your video, I’d already bought the non-pro, the one folks refer to as “alcohol” based, which is a mystery unto itself. Simple works best for most, especially newcomers. Your video is good and I’ll watch it again to compare to the other videos I’ve watched as there seems to be no “right way” or consistent way of dying leather. I don’t want to deal with “run-off” or leather that’s as hard as a rock after dying. Please advise. Thank you.
Hi, I would agree with you when you said there is no "right" way of dying leather, because there are several ways to get good results with varying products and amount of effort. You will see lots of opinion on the subject of dying leather, and the best thing I could recommend is just testing out a couple methods and seeing which one feels best for you and gets the results you are going for. the non-pro fiebings dye (called leather dye) is actually my preferred product. Since alcohol is one of its main ingredients, it dries quickly and can be diluted with isopropyl (rubbing alcohol) which is inexpensive. I like to dilute my dye and apply several coats, because in my experience, it is nearly impossible to avoid splotchiness when using undiluted dye. Additionally, if you have to apply 3-4 coats of undiluted dye in order to get an even application, the color becomes so dark it hardly looks like the color on the front of the bottle. To avoid the leather becoming hard after dyeing: apply neatsfoot oil before and after you apply the dye. This will rehydrate the leather and make it soft again. to avoid rub off: use a finishing product such as resolene, leather balm, leather sheen, or bag kote. Resolene is the most protective, but can be tricky to apply. It also has more of a high gloss than some of the other products I mentioned. This video you commented on is very "by the book", but if you want to see my personal favorite method of dying leather, I go through the entire process in this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-slCslXJiPOE.htmlsi=RRGxbYWY-nKsmpqu&t=455 i hope that helps!
Here are two longer videos with more information: For an overview of all of our dye products: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-EQLmHLU25b8.html My personal favorite way to dye leather: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-slCslXJiPOE.html
Yes, absolutely. Just make sure you are using leather needles. You may also want to buy a smooth presser foot set so that there are no marks left in the leather after you sew it. Best of luck on your projects! www.sailrite.com/Smooth-Foot-Set-for-Sailrite-Ultrafeed-LSZ-Sewing-Machine
I'm extremely technically challenged ;-), so I'm amazed it finally worked for me! We'll see for how long... Since my zipper was on a wallet I didn't care about all that much and was pissing me off, I also applied some vegetable oil to the teeth, as suggested in the comments. Pulling the zipper to the beginning, as somebody said in the comments seemed to help eventually. It didn't work when I was squeezing in the middle and I was about to give up. Sick and tired of Chinese crap... Thank you and everybody else in the comments who shared their experience and also gave helpful tips! 🙂
I dyed using Low Voc dark brown on back/front/sides. After allowing to dry overnight, it was still a little runny. So I wiped it down good and then coated the whole piece with Resolene. Something didn’t seem right immediately following the application, really tacky. I allowed it to dry for 20 minutes and it is dry but tacky to the touch. What did I do wrong or failed to do properly?
What type of dye did you use? Im not sure why it wouldnt dry overnight. Were you dying undyed leather? Maybe the piece you were dying already had a finish on it which prevented the new dye from soaking in.
@@SailriteWorkbench I believe it was some Loc Voc someone gave me. When I made a second attempt on a fresh test piece of leather, it wasn’t sticky/tacky. It was rather stuff because I didn’t precondition it.
hello very beautiful video please kindly film how to operate the sewing machine electric foot pedal how its used to sew please kindly reply back ok?thank you very much mam 😊
Hi! Are you using a Sailrite sewing machine? Even if not, here is a video that should help. It goes over the general set up of a sewing machine. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-m9yAM1fPKKI.html
I really need one of these. I just ruined a piece right at the end by holding the lighter for 1 second too long and blistering the leather. I was not happy lol
THANK YOU SO MUCH!!! I was able to fix my boyfriend’s favorite jacket that his ex broke the zipper on! It only took me five minutes to fix it 😭😭❤️❤️❤️❤️
Glad you enjoyed it! As a beginner, I was confused for a long time as well (especially with edge painting). I hope the video will give people the confidence to try these techniques for themselves for the first time.
Awesome tutorial. I enrolled in a community college textile course a few years ago, and got very confused from the extending of such information over weeks instead of just a few hours. A lot of it is hard to see as faulty without experience on heavy machinery. This is a great synopsis. I wish for others that this video would help introduce as well as sum-up the topics addressed. I definitely can choose my thread better if not best. For instance, I Personally like silk or eloflex for things such as fine [mosquito] netting/mesh and other very thin materials, but inellectualizing and knowing what to choose for equiptment repair is equally as important.
