I have a question. Love your channel!! First my husband has a street truck 5.3 LS carb. We have the msd box 6014. It is downloaded. When I pull up the MSD View I'm not seeing all of the A-F icons all usable. We are trying to set the ignition timing. He is using custom 1 and we have the ignition timing set on the app. I can't get it to go into the MSD box. Not sure what we are not doing correctly. If you could help it would be greatly appreciated. 7/10/2024
As a Schaeffer rep, not only does our oil make more HP, but it lowers overall operating temperatures (which is always good!), allows for extended oil drain intervals (less oil changes each year equals more money back into your pocket), increased fuel mileage on average 4-6% (enough said) and it cleans the varnish and crap out of your engine. The longer you use it, the better it works. Check out the Econoline (4.6 2v ford) 1,000,000 mile engine tear down. It flat out works.
We're doing out best. The problem is, we did it right the first time, so he hasn't needed anything or had need or want of any upgrades! We're trying, thanks for hanging in there.
Mobil 1 used to be good oil, now its only ok oil. Defiantly not something you should use in a performance engine. I'd be interested in seeing this same test vs AMSOIL Dominator. I'm not in any way saying Schaeffer's isn't high quality but..... you tested it vs a mid grade oil at best. Amazon oil, Super Tech are on par with Mobil 1 these days, Mobil 1 has taken a page out of Winchesters book : Lets ride our name off the cliff and make as much money as possible before people figure out our product is junk.
That was the baseline pull with 20* of total ignition timing. The car picked up almost another 20 rwhp from there with a couple of degrees of ignition timing, and by the time it had all the timing in it, it was making more horsepower than the car was rated at from the factory. See my response to your other post which discusses the difference between factory rated flywheel horsepower and rear wheel horsepower.
The numbers you list are factory flywheel numbers. A chassis dyno measures rear wheel horsepower. Rear wheel horsepower is what your car puts down to the road, after drivetrain losses, not what goes in the brochure. You may have noticed our SVO is in less than pristine condition. Our car was rated at 175 flywheel horsepower. However, baseline 2 was 156 wheel horsepower which is (approximately) 195 flywheel horsepower. With the Holley it made 182, which is approximately 227 flywheel horsepower.
Love the content, please keep em coming! I am on my 2nd Carb'd LS, 1st was a LY5 Cammed that went bang.."my fault". Now im onto LQ4 cammed. Been using ProForms 750 Street, I've been having good luck with it so far. I wish i had the 6014, im currently running 6012. -using gen4 crank of course* The additional features on the 6014 are impressive over my 6012.
Glad its helping! That is a solid carb choice for that engine. We are working on more. If you ever do decide you'd like to upgrade, we'd be happy to help!
I just put the truck norris cam in my 5.3 and it's a very nice cam sounds great, my other 5.3 has a trick flow 30602004 cam and the power difference is not even in the same zip code the 5.3 with the trick flow cam seems to make much better power but I'm still happy with my BTR cam and plan on keeping it
The Truck Norris cam is for pickup truck guys who want to be able to get away with a stock torque converter (212/220). It's also a really good driver cam that has good sound and some punch. That Trick Flow cam is called the Track Max (238/242). There should be a massive performance difference between those two cams.
I have a msd 6014 on a cammed l92 had it running for a good 10 mins to tune the carb out now I can’t seem to get it back running only thing I get is back fire threw carb any help!!!!
There are a lot of possibilities there. First thing I would check would be for a vacuum leak. If there are vacuum caps on the carb did one of them come loose? Make sure everything is tight. Are you running it off of a custom tune? Where are your mixture screws set?
I really wish you had done a video of the Holley install. I am thinking of switching from my ancient SDS to Holley, but I really do not know if I can handle the install.
The Holley install on this particular vehicle is not particular easy. It does necessitate the use of a crank trigger to get the timing functionality and we had to make a harness out of a cast off LS1 harness. Its definitely something we made happen because we really wanted to do it.
@@Scramspeed Yeah, I kind of figured that. My car has an older SDS EM3 system, which when it was put in the car was the only plug and play system available. It is rather primitive, uses a handheld tuning interface, and does not do any self-tuning (aside from closed loop cruise on a narrowband) nor does it datalog. I can upgrade the PCM to the current version, which is 3 generations down the road, and get 8 channels of datalogging and better closed loop, but nothing like a Holley. I can go to Pimp X and I am familiar with tuning MS systems, but I know from being in the LS turbo world just how much easier Holley is. The car is pretty heavily modified, but just so hard to tune with the SDS since I don't have a dyno like you. If I did, I could certainly use this system as I would not really need to log it as all the needed data would be on the dyno. I am not very good with electrical wiring, so the Holley is probably beyond my wheelhouse. LOL.
@@amgcarsalonllc Gotcha, you can either build a custom tune with the instructions in this video and the next, or just select something like the LS1 HO tune on the dial on the front.
My friend swears by shaffers, i just found about it...seen video with caterpillar semi with million miles and running like new, maybe i switch my semi, i was changing 12,000 miles with shell rottela and this shaffers in that caterpillar was changed at 60,000!!! Its almost 2.5 times more expensive but i would still save dough and engine will last longer..li think i will give it a try 😁
I would of thought it make more than that stock and after the cam swap, I like to know how some people dyno pull a stock 5.3 and are getting roughly around 330-340hp stock
It wouldn't make sense for anyone to get that kind of power from a stock port injected 5.3. This is rear wheel horsepower. Not engine dyno flywheel horsepower, and port injected 5.3s were rated at much less than 350 hp. Factory ratings are flywheel horsepower, not rear wheel horsepower. There is about a 20% loss in power through the drivetrain to the wheels. Rear wheel hp numbers are about 20% lower than factory flywheel numbers. Post 2014 5.3s are direct injected and are rated at 350 hp at the flywheel, but that is not a rear wheel horsepower number either. Of course, the engine in this video is a 4.8, not a 5.3. For 350 rear wheel horsepower stock, you'd be looking more at an LS3 6.2. 350 wheel horsepower is about 440 hp at the flywheel.
I'm putting the Truck Norris cam in a 6.0 for my '93 obs truck. REALLY hoping I don't regret going with 2.5" dual exhaust, x-pipe, and Magna Flow knock-offs.
Dude… this shit is GOLDEN. Wow. Can’t speak highly enough about the information in this video. And such great delivery and communication with everything . Well done, man, well done. Thank you
This is great! Thanks for explaining this stuff . I have an 01 5.7LS1 with patriot 243 ported heads, 228R cam ,1-7/8" headers. Preformer rmp I take and a QF 750 race carb. I'm wondering what you think a good starting point for degrees at idle, and what point would you start ramping up your timing. I'm running 28° total starting @1300rpm right now. Car runs ok but does diesel a bit when I shut it down on warmer days. I realize all motors are different. Just looking for your thoughts as I don't have a track or dyno shop nearby.
The ignition timing isn't likely itself to be the direct source of the problem, as there is no ignition activity after you shut the car off. A carburetor will still flow fuel on engine shutdown because the engine is still pulling fuel through it as it spins down. If the throttle blades are open to let enough air in, and if there's a secondary ignition source, carbon, a hot or too hot heat range spark plug, etc, it can diesel. I do not run that much ignition timing in any of my carbureted stuff. Most often it's 15*. You can run high timing to alleviate an overly rich condition, but you're better off adjusting the carb properly. On that carb, I would start with 15* to 1500, idle mixture screws 3/4 of one turn out from bottom, and adjust idle speed to where it needs to be when there's heat in the engine. Important: Check plugs, if black use new ones to set idle. Best of luck!
I have the old school and it leaked bad. I sanded the mating surface of the flare(80 grit then 120), cranked a flare tool in it to get it back to round, sanded it again(120) reinstalled, good as new. No leaks. Eventually I will upgrade to this, but if you're in a pinch, try this method out.
Great video. I have a suggestion that i think would be extremely popular; tuning a carbed LS cradle to grave using 6014. Slap a untuned 750 dp on and start the process. Show default idle timing to tune carb, show different changes and tuning tips used for getting your idle set, work into testing and settings used for first drive etc. I have never seen any video's breaking down all the small things that most of us kill ourselves researching as garage/weekend builders. It would be a carb ls learning adventure
@Scramspeed I bet. Possibly break it into sections like first start. Intial carb tune, fist drive etc. Might not be so overwhelming that way and allow more time for different segments
@@Scramspeed then my tach must be going back :/ I’m a few hundred off what the data logger shows as the correct rpm. Had the shift light on the tach at 6800 and the data logger showed 7400!
@@2manyhobbiezz Could be. Id trust the box over the tach. 6014 gets that number from the crank sensor. If it had the RPMS wrong, the car probably wouldn't run. Before you buy a tach, put a camera in the car to see if you can tell what's going on.
I can't watch anymore .. i've just seen the sign of pure stupidity: (stock, not drift hydraulic one!) Handbrake lever almost touching the sunroof.. if somebody do that to any car from my garage, that person will NEVER be allowed anywhere in the area of my garage. WAS that car on the MOUNTAIN RIDGE? Was a declined or inclined surface there? Then W H Y?!? Did you dare to use uwn brain? Did you know is a CABL /pair of .. which are tensioned when you pull that lever? There's NO RUBBER CABLES, but steel ones, did you know that?
We've been waiting for this! THANK YOU! All this time, we've been making HUNDREDS of thousands of horsepower, winning national events for DECADES, installing custom turbo systems, fuel injection retrofits, doing LS swaps, and building crazy cool one-of-a-kind stuff, and FINALLY! FINALLY! Someone explains to us the baffling mystery, The awesome majesty, of the "Emergency Brake." We've been so busy working on the cars of our thousands of happy customers that we never had time to learn ourselves. Bless you sir! Our kids want to be YOU when they grow up.
@@Scramspeed yes, my kids do want that and you know nothing about me or my life or my knowledge about various domains. If you were something or somebody, that would make you to know sarcasm can't exist without a minimal level of intelligence, because it become just a FART, as your post above. I was speaking about that brake lever, then you feel need to SHOW OFF, to "give me a lesson" about who you are and what marvelous things you do having at your disposal all resources of a planet.. 🤣. We builded here with almost no resources some 1000bhp from 3200cmc 6in line from 15years ago, a country hars exploited by western "democracy" after 50years of communism... So, your build of 2800bhp based on big block chevy and having EVERYTHING at lenght of a hand.. did not impress me at all. If something did impress me, is skills of those drivers which runs on track those builds on big tyres.
just picked up a 55 chevy with a ls and a msd box and I am new to this and this video helps me understand it a bit more. I am staring to install it in the car soon so i may contact you if I run into any issues.....thanks again
This kit works for 87-93 5.0 Mustangs that were originally fuel injected. It might work on an LTD LX or an EFI V8 T-bird or Lincoln Mk VII, that kind of thing. For a carbureted car or 4 cylinder, for example, you would need a different solution.
