Thanks! There's sort of a walkaround in one of our other videos comparing the 5.3 with the 6.2 in the car. We've always wanted to do "our cars" videos, and maybe it's time!
MSD 6014 LS4 complete swap No EFI, has carb, holley dual plane, NO ECT, but MSD thrown ECT Fault. Is there a way 2 zero out ,or disable ECT, as MSD is searching for ECT? #2. Cam Pos Sensor. getting CPS fault. ( replaced CPS) What does the MSD do with the CPS signal? CPS has about 5 volts to red wire & sensor wire. Is the red wire supposed 2 have 12 V? Voltage does not change, when ya pass a metal object past sensor? (as in videos I have seen)
I have a 6014 brand new still in the box from a project that I never used. I'm thinking about getting the 24x conversion for my sbc s10 and running 8 ls coils on my sbc. Just have to re pin the harness to change the firing order. I think it would be pretty neat setup. definitely different
Hello: We're going to make specific timing recommendations and outline a good methodology for getting the best timing for your particular setup in the companion video, as well as other tips and tricks. We hope to have it out early next week.
Hi,Great video. I have a 5.3, Im running a BTR Truck Norris cam, Holley 650 d.p, long tubes and the valve springs for the cam. 2700-3000 stall with a th-350. Im currently running it on the truck setting without the map sensor hooked up. Listening to the video,,would i be better off running the ls2 h.o setting? I have no experience whatsoever programming a box a box. Mainly a street car but i am intending on sending it down the strip to see what it can do. Also running your thermostat switch for my fans,That thing made life Alot easier. Thanks for the video and any help afforded! Matt
If you're running one of those canned tunes long term, you should definitely hook up the MAP sensor. As far as which curve to run, it depends on which car you are running it in. That's a fairly low RPM camshaft, so I'd think the truck HO would be fine, but in a motor that can use it the LS2 tune is hotter.
Can you shed any light on the cam sensor fault? My engine started misfiring and this code came up, I checked all my wiring, and no problems there, so I replaced the sensor with a NAPA unit, and now it won't run and backfires. Thanks
If it runs worse after replacing the sensor, I would say its likely your new sensor is bad. We try to use only Delco sensors. These boxes do spit cam sensor problems when its really something else, so its worth checking over the rest of the systems too. I'd double check your wiring. (with a voltmeter, not a test light). These are very picky about engine grounds. Doubly so if its an aluminum block. Additionally, The ground from the MSD box should go straight to the battery post. They are very picky about actually having 12V, it isn't an analog old school MSD box. Battery must be good. It would also be worth checking over the carb, look for vacuum leaks, etc.
I've read somewhere to swap the wires on the cam sensor harness. The middle, stays the same & swap the 2 end wires on the wire harness. I did it & I still have starting issues from time to time. Before it wouldn't start at all once the engine was up to temperature.
That's great, it explains so much. If you could give me some pointers, as I am new to the LS Carb group. I have a 5.3 with a sloppy stage 3 cam, Edelbrock 600 cfm carb, pac springs, short tube headers, a t350 with a 3000 converter, 410 gears and 30 inch slicks. What would be a good start, baseline etc? Thanks, Paul
We are including some base tune setups in the next video, so please stay tuned. Side note: You've got some pretty severe mismatches in your combo that are going to negatively impact performance. Send a message to the shop and I would be happy to offer some ideas to help.
Thanks for the video this helps tremendously. Do I need to be connected to the car to see data acquisition? I have made several test pulls but not seeing data when enabled.
You do have to download the data from the 6014 box to the computer before you can view the logs. I should have covered this in the video. It is a little fiddly and you're not the only one who's been gotcha'd by it. Choose data acquisition in the box and it should open a pop up with a pop up window showing the available logs. You check the boxes for each log and download them to the pc. Then you can open them in Review. It is also worth double checking the settings for the logger because it is easy to accidentally get it turned off because of conflicting shutoffs. One customer had the time before log shutoff set to zero, for example. I hope this is helpful.
I love your videos. Thank you for the hard work that goes into these videos. I would like to ask you about a problem I am having with my msd 6014. No one in my area can seem to figure it out. I have a ls 408 carburated with a 6014 running the coils. I noticed the other day that my timing curve that I set is different than the timing than the data log records. The recorder is logging about 10deg lower across my entire timing curve. So I came back to the car with my laptop and made some live passes. I noticed that the live widget that shows timing on the live gauge area is also reading 10 deg lower than what is showing live on my custom 1 graph. I have made sure that map retard is zeroed. I made sure temp retard is zeroed. My step and launch are disabled. I'm really lost as to what setting could cause this phenomenon. Also I want to spray the car but I'm afraid to because I have to set my timing 10 deg higher than I need in order to get the actual 34 deg I want. So if thus issue fixes itself mid pass my timing will jump 10 deg advanced. Any help would be awesome. Because I'm just dumbfounded at this point.
That's a new one. Is there a timing pull in the launch or step retard, or are those zeroed also? You're wise not to spray it until this is resolved. Please send me a copy of the tune file at service@scramspeed. com and I will give it a look. If you can send me one of the questionable datalogs, that would help.
Thanks for this info. I put a reman 5.3 in an 84 k5 blazer. A few years back. All stock. With the 6014 box. I never got the slight to moderate hesitation out of the carb on take off. This is just a daily driver. I tried 5 different carbs. I have never had a problem in 40 years of hot rodding, getting a carb to work right until i did this swap. I took a carb off of a stock 350 that ran perfect and put it on the 5.3. Still had a slight dead spot off idle. So i put a holley sniper on it. Now it runs fine. But not as good as id expected. And I've always thought it was something to do with the timing on the 6014 box. This gives me hope that i can get it running even better. I need to hook up vacuum to the box and try a setting other than the truck setting. Thanks again
We haven't seen a problem with off-idle hesitation with this that wasn't addressed with the usual squirter/pump cam adjustment on the carburetor. We find the most common problem people have with carburetors is adjustment of the intermediate circuit. It isn't well understood in a broad sense by a lot of the hot-rod public. I don't see how it could be an ignition problem, unless a ground was losing connection on acceleration. The box doesn't know what your throttle position is, it only reads RPM. The sniper is a good system if installed properly, *but* the "self-tuning" business is a lie. It is only capable of self adjusting fuel enrichment based on input from the wideband. If it was really that easy, we'd have never needed tuners in the first place. It *DOES* work a lot better when the sniper has timing control, and there's no way to make the sniper talk to the MSD. I would recommend seeking out a competent Sniper tuner and more than likely they can improve your experience with it. Cheers!
We had a fellow submit a question on our Contact Us page about the 6014 videos, but he left us the wrong email address! We'd love to help you. Please try again!
I have a msd 6014 on a cammed l92 had it running for a good 10 mins to tune the carb out now I can’t seem to get it back running only thing I get is back fire threw carb any help!!!!
There are a lot of possibilities there. First thing I would check would be for a vacuum leak. If there are vacuum caps on the carb did one of them come loose? Make sure everything is tight. Are you running it off of a custom tune? Where are your mixture screws set?
Running a 5.3L bored .20 over and flat top pistons with the truck Norris cam. Would you suggest the truck HO for initial start and seeing how it runs or would you use custom tune and mock the truck HO settings then adjust timing as needed? Thanks
The truck HO might peak a little early, but yes, that's definitely a good baseline. If possible when using that curve, hook up the MAP sensor to intake vacuum, and try it out. If its just a driver you might find it to be ok as is. If you really want to most out of it, its worth doing a custom table to see what it really likes, but certainly you can have a lot of fun before doing all that.
There are several things that can cause run-on which have nothing to do with the box. The box should be off when you shut the key off, so it is unlikely to cause the problem. Often its because the throttle blades are open too far at idle.. Most commonly what I see is that people don't have their idle mixture screws adjusted correctly, creating a rich condition which means they have to crank the throttle blades open pretty far to get a reasonable idle speed. If you adjust the idle screws correctly, then you can close the throttle blade some and still have a reasonable idle speed. A *rule of thumb* is with a 4 corner idle carb to have each of the 4 screws adjusted 3/4 of one turn out from bottom as a start position. A 2 corner carb would be 1 turn out from bottom on both screws. Not all carbs are the same, but for most Holleys out there, this works. That seems to be the most common problem, but there are others. Hope this helps!
Great video. Just got mine going on a 84 el camino with a ls1. Have a holley hp 750. Looking to do a 150 shot wet kit. So Looking foward to all your videos on this matter
You can import the tune into the box from the file menu. Then select "Send to product". To check it, choose "Load from Product" and see if the tune stays the same as the one you just loaded.
The temp sensor on my msd said 76 degrees but my gauge said 150-160. The gauge sensor is on the back passenger port and the msd is on the front driver port. Does that make a difference?. It's a gen 3 6.0
Likely, the MSD is reading in Celsius instead of fahrenheit (you can change it in the software). 76* celsius is 168 fahrenheit. Either that or it has an air bubble and first place to check is steam vent ports. Hope this helps!
@@amgcarsalonllc Gotcha, you can either build a custom tune with the instructions in this video and the next, or just select something like the LS1 HO tune on the dial on the front.
This video is worth watching several times like a good movie. Would you have a ballpark squirter/jet size to start with on a holley 600, 5.3 , truck norris cam?
Thanks! Im glad you like it. Check out the one we just dropped for more in depth particulars. I'd think a 31 primary/pink cam and high 60s/low 70s on jet size would get you in the ballpark.
There is a link at the bottom of our product page: www.scramspeed.com/products/msd-6014-red-ls-ignition-control.html If you can't get us, message us at scramspeed.com and I will send you a copy of the file.
There's a link to the software at the bottom of the product listing on our page. www.scramspeed.com/products/msd-6014-red-ls-ignition-control.html Hope this helps. The software is called MSD View 4.
