I have been tinkering with bikes and cars for a while now and thought I would make a youtube channel about it. Maybe make some videos and documentaries about the stuff I do and how I do it.
I'm on Instagram as @vintagegarageyt. instagram.com/invites/contact/?i=ibycvgf1k7z2&
@@MrCairosp I've been using 10w40 from motul or castrol for a decade without any issues. The weight depends on your climate though. 10w40 is perfect for Belgian weather (not too hot, not too cold)
@@nielshermansen3299 yeah lights work fine. Even better than before. You do have to switch to a 12V system. One of the wires (I think it was yellow) is your supply. Connect that to the main wire of the loom and it should work as before
@@VintageGarageYT thank you so much! I’m trying to rebuild a RD60 and your videos are such a great resource and inspiration!! If I ever complete the project, I’ll send you some pics. I thinking of replacing the bearings, seals. I don’t know if I should hone my cylinder and refinish my piston. The piston pin is super tight. Biggest worry is me spending $$$ and then not able to start and seize it right away.
@@allahdaniel212 I'm glad my videos can help you! Best thing is to measure everything. Measure the cylinder,piston, set the ring gaps en start with a slightly rich mixture. It won't seize right away. You would really have to mess something up badly for it to seize right away.
@@allahdaniel212 they can be stuck on there sometimes. Try heating the inside part of the flywheel a little. And when the puller is under tension, give it some love taps with a rubber mallet. Dont heat it too much though, because that can destroy the magnets
@@jeremyv282 proficiat met je aankoop! Blij dat mijn video's kunnen helpen.! Neen, voor anderen werk ik niet aan brommers. Ik heb soms tijd te kort om aan mijn eigen brommers te werken, laat staan voor een ander 😅
@@jeremyv282 bedankt! Zo'n reacties zijn altijd leuk. We zijn momenteel ons huis aan het verbouwen dus is het zeer druk, maar ik heb wel al wat leuke ideeën voor toekomstige videos. 😁
Hey bro I’ve just rebuild dt50mx same engines but the clutch was working before just wasn’t great but was defo work now I’ve replaced crank etc ( yet to fit top end but refitted to the bike to test and have no clutch )
@@VintageGarageYT yes mate 100% and I have literally just checked to see if it fell out definitely not is the answer I’ve just popped the seal and was trying to fish it out with a magnet but it’s not having it so gonna make a tea and start pulling it open I have feeling at the lever but it just won’t engage
@@Tizzy_p hmmm. Seems strange. Did you change anything to the clutch or worm gear? What was the reason for the rebuild? I would check everything individually. Does the worm gear reach it's full stroke when pulling the cable? (Perhaps the cable is too short?) The rod and ball are in place, so is the clutch plates in the correct order? Is the 2nd pushrod in place? Are the clutch springs too strong? Perhaps loosen the screws of the clutch cover, which hold the worm gear. If you pull the clutch, does the cover get pushed out?
@@VintageGarageYT the crank locked up due to the piston breaking down and falling in there, I only took the tension out the cable and popped it from the lever itself left it with the case it was working fine before was very sloppy at the lever but was working now it won’t engage, there was only 2 fiber plates 1 steel so can’t be wrong the same springs used I have changed a bolt but I highly doubt it’s that mate as same length etc as the other 3 bolts mate, the 2nd push rod is fitted into the outer basket and outside the nut, just stumped as everything is as it was mate but I genuinely appreciate all of your time and advice there’s a lot of pics and a vid on my Chanel of the bike if interested in looking your likely see how I stripped it but I’m going to tear it all back down shortly and see what I’ve missed or isn’t right lol
@@Tizzy_p yeah no worries. Wish I could give you a better answer, but without seeing it's hard to tell. It's totally possible though that it barely worked before, but for example the worm gear was on its last legs. Removing or disassembling caused it to die. Sometimes these things fail in a way it's hard to see or know where exactly
Different copper alloys either harden or soften by heating and quenching in water. IDK the details of why, except that it alters the crystalline structure. Copper scraps I've had in my hobby blacksmith shop would work-harden. To soften the workpiece so I could continue hammering and shaping, I had to heat it and quench it in water.
How many oil seals does this engine take mine is a yamaha mr50 1980/1981 im not sure anymore. Where did you buy a oil seal kit? I think mine has same enjine as yours. I need help with mine. Bike shops here say its too old for them to work on
@@Adriaan-bb6kv they are very basic engines and it's totally doable to do it yourself with some basic tools. Here are the seal and bearing sets: Bearingset: www.jmpbparts.com/lagerset-yamaha-dt-rd-ty.html Seal set: www.jmpbparts.com/keerringset-yamaha-dt-rd-5-versnellingen.html
I want to get my 1981 Mr50 running. It doesn't want to start. Has good spark. New carburator. But I think compression is low. What rannge should compression be? Pls help. Also what carb you have mine mikuni vm16 what is your airscrew setting? Pls help
@@Adriaan-bb6kv compression should be minimum 90psi on a hot engine. Airscrew setting stock is 2 turns out from completely in. That should be a good starting point. Is the plug wet when trying to start it? If not it's not getting fuel
@@Adriaan-bb6kv you can try add a little bit of 2 stroke oil in the cylinder through the spark plug hole. That will temporarily boost compression. If it starts then, then you know the rest should be ok
Vintage Garage, I just purchased an early 1970’s Solex 3800S Black at a Flea Market last week for very little $$$. The reason the Solex was parked and non-running is exactly the same root cause as your Solex. The tiny fuel filter inside of the fuel tank was blocked with sediment where fuel could not be drawn up to the fuel pump. Easy fix, I like it when it an easy solution to a non-running mopedo.
@@brucepietro6046 the easy fixes are the best fixes! That's a great find by the way! The times where you could get mopeds for cheap prices are long gone here. Everyone thinks they have gold on their hands and want top dollar. Even for shitty non running examples 😕
Vintage Garage, There are two of those tiny glass balls inside of the Solex Fuel pump. When you blow into one of the fuel line openings there is no restriction & when you suck through the other fuel line openings there is no restriction. Yep, that’s the way it works. I have not tried using a ball from a ball point pen. The ones I have purchased through an online store are made from glass. Good luck with your Fuel system on the Solex. In general these machines are extremely dependable. Ride Safely
@@brucepietro6046 yeah the fuel pump is quite literally the heart of these mopeds. I got it running on both of my solexes and they're still running strong actually. Using quality fuel also makes a huge difference
I had trouble loosing 3 of these kut-screws on the rotating disk cover of my fs1 2ru. I cut a sleeve in them with a angle grinder and whilst they where still hot i got them out with a big flat screw driver. 😂
There was a guy in our town with a yamaha Rd50dx in 1980. I had a Zündapp ks 50wc with Drum Brakes and both run around 95 km/h flat The Yamaha was defenitly not tuned! You can find tests from German "Motorrad, where Rd50dx was tested between 90 and 95kn/h in the net. Ten years ago I had a Rd50Mx with the ysr 50 motor from 1982. It run 75 km/h when i got it. Somwhere in the net I found the ignition timing for the ysr and mine was set wrong. With this change it did 80 and was much faster in acceleration. I changed the sprocket and: 90km/h. In an Article from 'Motorrad' was a description of how to set the timing for the old Rd50dx. Many used the wrong setting from Rd50M and had no Power. Maybe that's your problem
I recently received the article from another follower with those tests. Very interesting article! As far as I remember the ignition was set correctly, but later on I swapped it for an HPI ignition. Recently though the piston destroyed itself so it no longer runs, sadly enough. I was still looking for the missing power. Also these were short acceleration tests doing a 400m sprint, not a top speed run. It did go 75-80 when going all out on a long road
Yamaha won't have over geared the bike so that leaves two possibilities, either the engine is not running correctly or someone has messed about with the gearing. Your calculated BHP would indicate that the engine is 'sick' (not in a good way!) Just for something fun to do a couple of years ago I purchased a basket case of a Honda MT5, they were restricted to 30 MPH in the UK, I had one 40 years ago when I was 16. Anyway I've thrown all my 2 stroke knowledge at my 'new' MT5, it's doing an easy 55 MPH (88 KPH) even through I weight twice as much as I did when I was 16. The powerband on my bike is also pretty narrow, 7500 to 9500 RPM, because of this I've replaced the stock 5 speed box with a 6 speed box from an MTX 80.
In the meantime I did find some small things that could've been improved and some of them did help. The biggest one being swapping the mikuni carb for a dellorto. I have big suspicion the original carb has been tampered with. I'm suspecting the needle and the emulsion tube don't match. I have some new carbs to test, but I'm making some plans to actually make my own small dyno so I can properly test it! But I'm lacking some time currently. I'm slowly gathering parts and ideas to complete it 😁
What is a pen ball. I have no idea what you're talking about but I'd like any specific information you have on it because I'd like to have some spares. Thanks.
@@VintageGarageYT I think I found a 60 pack of standard international refills with a 2.6 bore end. That would make sense if the ball is 2.7mm. I think I'll go ahead and order them. I have 2 impex solexs that I'm going to do rebuilds on as soon as my parts kits arrive. One is more sluggish than the other so I'm going to be rebuilding the carbs and at least cleaning the fuel pumps and want to be sure I have an extra set of balls just in case.
Benelli were very clever in cutting down on their R&D costs. I have a Suzuki GT250 and the engine looks very similar as well as the same HP at 32hp. Benelli also copied Honda with their 4 stroke bikes. I grew up in the 70's and this was a big talking point. Personally I would change the carbs for Mikuni as the jetting appears identical too. I have no problem setting up my twin carbs. I have old Italian bikes as well as Japanese... Italian beautiful to look at.. Japanese easy to work on 😂 Good luck with the build and i have now subscribed 👍
Thank you! Much appreciated! Yeah the italian bikes are something different 😅. You think a set of Mikuni's would be better? I will have a look around for some. Although a fun bike, the japanese bikes are just better I think 😅
@VintageGarageYT early gt250 has 26mm carbs. The last of the gt250 (A,B,C models) have 28mm carbs, these were the 32hp bikes. Just check the diameter of the carb inlets to the engine. Much more spares available for the Mikuni especially in the Netherlands. Thanks for your reply and a big thumbs up for the Benelli.
@@overlandworld2253 Thank you! Will definitely have a look! Parts for these bikes are available at a German supplier, I bought a new carb housing there last summer, cause one of mine was completely messed up. I also rebuilt them and the bike responds better. Will measure them up and perhaps look for one size up.
The video. I'm based in Japan and have the Yamaha YB-1 which I think is the domestic name for the FS1. Anyhow, I'm also having clutch problems, so will try out what you did. Also, the misfiring is from the clutch??
@@PauldelRosario Hi there! The YB1 is I think a later model, based on the fs1. I even think you can get them here with a 4 stroke engine. The clutch is indeed a weak point on these engines, what kind of problems do you have?
Thanks for the reply. I JUST picked up a used one today. I really didn't need much to press the clutch lever. Very similar to your video. The lever was close to the hand grip. I bought this to learn how to ride a manual transmission bike as I'm used to riding Super Cubs. I forgot to press the clutch once going from 2nd to 3rd, and it kind of engaged, so I thought it was weird. That's when I started check RU-vid for videos. Now, the clutch lever is "usual" (I also adjusted from the handle bars), but now I hear this light screeching sound. Too tight somewhere? Clutch plates?? I don't remember hearing it, but I could be wrong. I watched your other video too and you said it was slipping. As this is the first time for me to ride a manual bike, I really don't know what that feels like, so it's a learning curve for me. As it was already night here in Tokyo, and I don't have a garage, I'll check this out tomorrow morning. BTW, mine is this 1996 model www.bikebros.co.jp/catalog/2/92_1/#spec_top Helpful channel you've got and nice collection of bikes. @@VintageGarageYT
@@PauldelRosario Thanks man! Much appreciated! A slipping clutch is easy to tell this way: when in 3rd or 4th at low rpm, fully open the throttle and pull through the gear. If the engine starts going up in rpm but the speed stays the same, thats a slipping clutch. Screeching noises are also not normal. Could be clutch adjustment indeed. They are very fidly to get right 😅
Thanks for mentioning it opens at 2.5mm before TDC I couldn't find this anywhere. I have a Benelli 3V with rotor plate that was was off when I got it, I didn't have a clue how to set it and the thing would not even fire up, now putting it at 2.5mm before TDC actually got the moped to start! Very good, thanks
Yes, there is probably something wrong with it. A Zundapp 6.25 is much, much faster. The top speed was kind of like a 2.9hp Zundapp, if you changed the gear ratio.
Yeah i changed the gear ratio a little bit. Now its also running a HPI ignition and reaches a nice 80kph. There is more in there, im playing around with some different carbs
