When you took out the hose Im seeing water sitting there. Is that normal? I just had water back up a bit in my basement, and when looking now, there is water sitting 6 inches below the cap. There should be no water at all sitting right?
yes, water will be inside that pipe if anything is ever drained into it or if it backs up an floods. If it's a drain that's never used probably minimum water if any at all. The drain pipe sits below an run s like this basically ... ... ... ... .................................................... .................................. Clog ............
@@WhiteGuysWRX Thank you kindly! Im guessing because it rained pretty heavily outside that morning, I showered , and the dishwasher was also running at the same time is what caused the back flow to come back up 🤷🏻♂️ Nasty!
@@omarh4694 store purchased parts from was Vanguard 5/16 was a clear hose from the hardware store. Believe I got it from ace hardware. Home Depot sells also in the aisle by the water heaters Mixed nuts was Walmart. Got to eat them first
@@omarh4694 maybe 2-3 minutes once it was setup to bleed everything out. First time ever doing this - yes every air bubble came out. It was pretty easy which I was surprised. Just be careful removing the old bolts holding it together. I would use a little Milwaukee impact maybe for loosening a M12 something not super strong - fear of stripping them
@@omarh4694 I do not think so, basically the system is filled at the top resivor similar to a cars brakes. - if you have a special tool it is possible I think? Simplest cheapest way I did it tho was in the video. The line kept fluid in it. I left it all connected to the old cylinder when disconnecting. So steps I took wete: Get everything situated. Get the old one off first Have new parts ready to swap Have cleaning supplies brake cleaner rags etc ready and safety glasses Clean it all out, scrape it out.. make it look new. - bolt up new one, disconnect old line an quickly attach to New cylinder - go up top cap off now. If cap is on it creates vaccum an prevents fluid from just all coming out at once when u disconnected below - cap off - top off the 3-4oz it lost. Start priming it with bleeder nipple open below now Pump pedal a few times...I think 7-9 times was all I needed... Have had zero issues to this day Hope this helps. If your in the Midwest I'll stop by I still have the jar of mixed nuts lol.
@@Mr.Helper. that was my first fear when using this product. I was afraid it would go thru the vent pipe out the roof but so far years later I've used it a small handful of times an it has not yet caused any issues other than blasting the clog out. I assume all applications are a little different because no house is the same. - use with caution, I'm not a plumber an only god knows what's I side your pipes
@@WhiteGuysWRX I just watched a few more videos … I didn’t realize the bladder was shooting out water 😂 … I thought it just clogs the hole and you flush the it out by like running a sink … it makes more sense now
I used a few wood blocks, 2x4s to stabilize the cab. use the leveling valve arm to raise the cab to maxim height. Basic tools can remove the bag, soak it down with wd40 on the top an bottom before removal if bags are very old
This guy shows you the problem, but the solution is much easier than tearing it apart and manually cleaning it. Get two cans of automotive brake cleaner and go nuts, spraying it into the back fins, down by the fan and anywhere in between. It will dislodge and dissolve the dirt, gunk and goo without having to tear the unit apart. I just did this to my unit and it's now running like it's brand new. No E8 code and it's much colder.
Subbed. Thanks for putting your experience with the GE AC error code, right into my friggin hands! But no quick montage and then showed it working again? Wait, I typed code e8. Oh dammitt. I'll be in touch or pleade feel free bcuz I need your advice on that.
hey, thanks for the positivity. The unit is still working to this day. Just needs to be cleaned out once a year. I took the unit completely out of the window and sat it outside on my picnic table and my driveway for starters . When taking the unit out of your window, make sure you let it sit at an angle first because it is going to drain a bunch of water out depending on if you’re carrying it downstairs or whatever you just don’t wanna slip on the water . Once you get it outside, literally all you’re going to need is a Phillips screwdriver and a little bit of patience . It will come apart, pretty easily easily . I’m here if you need help, just holler
Just a update: it's been years now owning this unit. Seems every season I have to clean it out due to the pollen/trees. Unit still works like a champ! I found an additional unit my neighbor was throwing away and I tested out my electric power washer on this unit. To my suprise the power washer did a great job. - I was afraid to use a power washer in fear of damaging the fins. I kept a 12inch gap between the sprayer and the fins with a 90* sprayer nozzel. - I also purchased a 8k Midea U shaped AC unit for a spare bedroom from home Depot. So far owning for 1 week I'm extremely impressed. The 8k unit is almost silent. You can not even tell it is running. I think it is outperforming the GE unit so far hands down. With this new style Midea AC unit you can close your window almost 90% and and the unit sits between the window. It is suppose to be 16ceer/seer which the higher SEER rating the more electric you save. The GE we currently have I believe is a 9.8Ceer or close to it. So food for thought if your needing to eventually replace your GE.
I don't ever comment on youtube videos, but this one NEEDS to be known. Did exactly what you said, sprayed the back with the hose for a few mins while it was running, completely unplug it from the wall, plug it back in and it works like a charm again! Ty so much for this!
I’m not trying to be negative, but you are saying how bad aftermarket abs sensor are, but you are using monroe shocks which are not genuine one and are the worst.
Our drain is super slow at draining.. it doesn't overflow. When hard rain comes down our basement starts to get water, it slips to this drain but as soon as this hole gets full it takes 30 minutes to drain just that. Suggestions?
Hey, I'd try the main drain liquid at home Depot. It's around a gallon for about $15... Start there. What I do is run a sink with hot water for a good 5 minutes, pour it in while I get ready for bed let it sit overnight 7-8hrs an set a reminder on my phone to flush it in the morning. - read instructions on bottle. Everything is a little different now days...mine has not had a issue since I did this video so I'm thankful for that. Wet wipes, flushable wipes get caught in older drainage systems so that was mainly my issue I think. My home is from 1930's if I remember correctly
Thanks for the video. I've been all through youtube to find the right way to approach this. I do have a question though, should I put high temp grease on both ends of the push rode or leave it be? Also my new slave cylinder didn't come with one, I want to reuse the old one, but they might not be a good idea.
We have a home with a basement drain every time the washer is run. We werre told the pipe is too small ans cant handle the amount of water. It does drain fine but it backs up 4 ft around the drain. How to fix it?
Options are kinda limited unless you want to tear up the concrete floor. I'm not a plumber by any means but creative and motivated to save money What you could do is get creative possibly getting a empty orange 5 gallon home Depot bucket, having the water from washing machine drain into the bucket, possibly get a lid on the bucket and drill a hole in the center of the lid to drop ur drain hose from washer into it, drill a small 1/2 hole into the bottom of the bucket attaching a drain hose to the bucket - this will allow the water to slowly drain into your hole in the floor... Cheapest option probably. Minimum tools required - The washing machine has a drain pump which shoots probably 3-5 gallons out pretty quickly which this bucket would hold the water an allow a more slow drain in theory. - I have not done this myself personally BUT it could work. Basement drain should be large enough however to drain. Possible you have a older piping which is corroding in ground. They used a mixture of cast iron and clay in older homes and the cast iron sometimes swells an rust appears
My brother-in-law replaced the servo because the clutch pedal was so hard we could not push it down more than a couple inches. I got it primed and bled out by pushing the rod and now we are back to you can’t push the pedal down it acts about like the brake pedal. How did you get yours from pushing so hard to normal? Just by bleeding? I would think mine should be good or I have a clutch problem.
After starting the truck one or two pumps it was fine. - there are air brake valves too in the firewall behind the plastic covers behind the brake pedal also. Those go bad often too they are about $32 each. There's two I believe
Thanks. We have had it running and won’t go in gear. It’s an auto shift but clutch should still do the same thing. Must be more serious. Have a good one
@@billfarmer66 if you have Facebook there is a group called Volvo truck masters - join that and there are master techs on there giving free advice. If the truck was running with zero issues an just randomly stopped going into gear disconnect batteries let it do a reset, unplug the elog out of the obd port, see if it changes I believe there is a air solenoid that sits on top of the autos. It does something with shifting on them. Don't give up, more than sure it's something you can figure out 🍺
Im having a series issues with my trailer brakes not working air pushing thru valves when pressure is applied and hand brake not working. Were is this peace located on truck ? Hopefully im having same problems as you
How cold is it where you are located? Outside temp? Could be frozen too. It's located under the cab where your blue an red air lines screw into the back of the truck. Opposite side connects glad hands to trailer
How to tell when this valve is bad ? what symptoms did you have ? I have 2011 Volvo and handle for the trailer sometimes doesn’t work and have to hold it hard but it was working so smooth back in da days. also when i brake on the brake pedal its locking my trailer brakes. It does on all my three trailer. do you think that valve could be bad ?
The valve went bad for me when the dash valve I could hold all the way down an nothing would happen, the trailer brakes with the main brake pedal would not show brake lights and the trailer would not brake at all unless my foot was fully into the regular brake pedal with 80% force applied to brake.... Depending on where you are an the weather we have had you could have water in your lines and frozen lines... Alcohol will help adding to the service and emergency lines that connect to the trailer BUT In the summer you may develop air leaks due to the Volvo o-rings wearing out all of the time. I personally have never used alcohol in my truck in 8 years but it is common of your not replace your air dryer every 6mo. I replace mine before winter an after winter basically. They crap out an can explode
Happy Thanksgiving Johnson, The clutch system is like a garden hose that is filled with oil. Everytime you press the clutch, it shoots oil to areas needed and is a sealed system. Much like a houses water supply. If you replace your faucet on the side of your house, for example or the master cylinder in this case on the truck, air gets inside your closed system. The delicious mixed nut jar comes in handy in this case, by opening the faucet in your upstairs bathroom, or the brake reservoir cap in this case and having brake fluid completing the system, this will blow all air bubbles out of the system as you are priming the system. There are tools for this, but if you are in a bad situation or low on funds or just like a guaranteed thing....this is it. Be sure to eat the salted nuts an clean jar prior to filling it with brake fluid. Pro tip
huge posibility - its a cheap fix to try. Later on i did find out the alignment bolts on the driver side were about 5lbs loose and needed the air impact on it a few times. it is on the bolts that show the adjustment marks with the little mushroom shaped plates - I did an alignment later at the dealership an that issue went away. Only other popping noise could potentially be a ball joint which i didnt have a issue there.
This is a 2 year review on the unit. Zero issues. Absolutely one of the cheapest investments I have made into the house. Rather it be from a Pandemic stand point of view, or simply losing power in the winter - whatever the case is...this unit is a must have. it can run off of Natural Gas or off of a propane tank that you use on your BBQ gril... highly recommended- They still are selling this unit as of to date. - when i purchased I believe it was right at $200 - since then I have purchased an additional unit for my parents home. They were fortunate to get theirs for $90 at Farm and home store on clearance last year. Minimal tools required for insulation, obviously consult with a professional if you are not familiar with this line of work. The first winter savings will cost about what this unit is. So its going to end up free basically in the long run an pay for its self, not to mention having warm floors in the winter an no basement walls sweating and or eliminate potential mold/mildew in the winter months :) enjoy
Ans again after 30k i dumped new ecm harnesses every component that the fuel system has finally here we are ,,, this is whay may power comes and goes ,,, thank you for the video
does this truck have egrs your working on? it is possible your egrs are stuck in the wrong position. for example. there are two egrs. they open an close the same way you screw a bolt into a hole. the egr valves screw in an out to open. little electric motors. when the trucks off and ice cold. take 1 off - once off see if its fully closed, then do the same to the other. they should both be in the matching positions. if they are NOT identical there is a potential issue. it throws the truck into basically a limp mode and limits power randomly. o'rileys auto parts has the replacements for $500ish with 1 year warranty. OEM they are like 1200+ each - if both egrs are fully closed position this is ideal - for testing purposes ONLY off road of course if they are left in the closed position while driving and or unplugged to test if this is your issue with power loss you CAN do this by unplugging them on drivers side. just follow the 2 wires - it WILL throw a check engine light but will NOT limit power or throw limp mode. issue with the d12 is there are not many good mechanics anymore that actually understand this simple engine. they just throw money at it bc they are not trained nor do they care. it adds up quickly $$ theres a group on facebook called "volvo truck masters" they have master techs on there and a really great group of guys that will help almost any time of day or night. shoot there if you are still needing help with it. happy trails bro
Possibly that valve is snapped. Mine did the same thing. There's also a air supply tube that goes to it. It's every bit of $200 be careful taking it off. It raps over the top of the engine an connects on driver side under near the frame area to some module. My module was covered in gunk. I brake cleanered it off an replaced air line to the engine brake bc I accidently snapped it. It's just an aluminum pipe..you probably could get away with some air fittings an a piece of plastic 1/4 airline if u needed to
I had my air dryer and air governors replaced a year ago , my aip pressure stays st 125 and doesnt drop. The purge valve goes off every 21 seconds then you hear a noise from the governor. If you put your hand on the governor when it makes a noise you feel. But also i noticed the governor being. I got one with 13$ today so will be replacing it tomorrow thank you for the tip of taking off the hoses and orings. Subbed to you and also will be changing all the orings on my rig as well .1millions 17k on my d13 i think its time for oring replacement 😂😂
I cannot thank you enough man! Seriously. Just got back from vacation so pretty broke. Three weeks now of the basement flooding anytime I use the water, took a shower. Anything. I tried every commercial drain cleaner imaginable. I knew it was going to cost me hundreds with a plumber. couldn’t even do the laundry. Saw your video and picked it up at Home Depot and it’s like a freaking miracle. Totally worked! Thank you so much man you really save me a ton of money.
theres always one plug thats a pain in the ass! Trying to pull these plug wires off is an absolute pain in the ass! Why they didn’t do coil over plug design like every other car has is ridiculous! On the left bank, becareful pulling the plastic cover off the valve cover! I broke the back plug wire connector trying get it off. I had to use a strap and pull on the ac lines or whatever is back there out of the way to get the cover back on.
Hello I have a 2006 Volvo nvl I lost power on the lil hills but she will run 75 to 86 with a load or not I go up a bridge speed drop to 45 to 50 I can't understand why 🤔 thank you for your help JD
