Back the plunger all the way out. Screw in the can. Connect the hose to suction line. Slightly twist can to purge air. Tighten can backup. Screw down the piercing plunger into can. Back out plunger.
Your review of the green gun is completely the opposite of everyone else's and their documentation, which says that it's intended only for spraying thinner material. Everyone else that I"ve seen review it, and the one that I have, spray lighter stuff well but are really pretty horrible at anything heavier like primers and such. I will agree that the purple gun is better built, and I wouldn't be surprised if there have been a dozen different versions over the years (my oldest might be 20years old now), and I have 3 or 4 of them around and they're all different. They have gotten better cap designs over the years, but the thing that they all have in common is that they do not spray a lot of volume. I've gotten frustrated with my newest one (I got it during Covid) when as one of my projects I built an 8' long desk for my kids for "at home learning" and it was just taking WAY too long to spray water based poly out of it. I ended up dumping the cup into the HF gun that used to be sold for $6x or $7x (It may be discontniued, I saw it earlier this hear on sale for $49) which sprays MUCH more like a professional gun.
Thank you for sharing your view, I do agree the green gun is recommended for thin or light fluid. What you say about the purple gun is what I have experienced, that it keeps changing and I guess the cfm is what keeps it from spraying fast. I have not said it but the hvlp stamped on the side is a joke because it is not hv with such a low cfm rating.
any problem with the little plastic screen filter? ive heard it said the gun works better without it - but you must strain-filter your paint well, before pouring into gun....
I think it depends on the paint, if it is thin I guess they can be helpful in blocking a clump from reaching the nozzle and clogging gun, but if paint is thick I think it can restrict the flow which is not good. all kinds of opinions on these. filtering before adding to gun is a no risk beneficial alternative but the little filter can be cleaned, although some people say they can not. I guess I would conclude that if i was spraying a lot of paint I would use a paper filter, but if it was a test spray or something not very important I'd definitely consider the plastic gun filter.
I'm new to painting with an HVLP gun and recently bought the same one from Amazon. I started with a 1.4 tip, attempting to spray some Rustoleum charcoal gray. Although the recommendation was to thin it at 5%, I found that it was still too thick. I increased the thinning to 10% and tried painting a small part, but the results were poor, with lots of spurting and severe orange peel. After watching numerous RU-vid videos, I realized that most people spraying Rustoleum use a 3:1 ratio, so my paint was likely still too thick. I may have also been using too low a pressure. I'm considering returning the gun and buying a more expensive one, but I might just be setting it up incorrectly since others have had good results with it. Does anyone have any suggestions? Should I return it, or should I try adjusting the setup and do some more testing to get better results?
It sounds to me like you really need more experience using spray guns so I would keep practicing with what you have. I do not like the quality of this gun, the screws and squeeks, but it does spray as good as other cheaper guns. Plus you get to try the bigger tip, I'm experimenting with 1.7 cap and 1.4 needle / nozzle combo. try spraying on a cereal box or something with different ratios and vary how close you are spraying. practice!
House painting: I have 2 purple guns think one is a little lower pressure and a 4oz. Still in the box. One of the larger drilled out to 2mm. So I dont have to thinn out the exterior paint so much.. happy it works. Using the un-drilled one for trim and doors. If you have doors to paint wow what a time saver and good job, no paterns to follow and tidying brush strokes! Kudos on all the notes great idea and practice.
I gues there listening to the customers❤ I drilled the Orifice dim....5/64. - 2mm. Have two guns one is the pricier one as it has the multi wrench a big plus. Drilling the orfice will allow you to run thicker paint so you dont weaken the glues. Im keeping my other gun as is for oils, furniture doors etc. Nice to know they upgraded the cheaper unit!! Thanks!
thank you! I think about this sometimes, and I've seen some really amazing videos which I will never rise to, but I consider this practice, a work in progress, getting the hang of just talking freely, and eventually hope to get better as I go. sort of like picking up a manual drive car and it taking quite some time to get the hang of it. never too old to learn.
@@rob12449 well that’s the thing. You talk freely and say what’s on your mind and go through the thought process and share it with us. Especially with the dehumidifier video. Mine broke and could not be salvaged but man what you did was impressive!
@@hcarducci funny that today I opened up an a/c window unit and saw rust but just closed it up and expect to junk it. i did not make any follow up video but i think it is not worth the effort on these tiny units that require ports to be added. well we live and learn!
I've tried three different kits both expensive and cheap and they ALL slipped. I can't take the line anywhere because it is almost impossible to remove from the truck. Thanks for the hint, anyway.
Fixed several of them. Takes some skill with brazing. Have had 5 different brands that have lost charge. Must braze in service port on low side, find fix leak if possible, evacuate, and very important, “weigh in the charge”. R410a must be charged as a liquid. Takes LOTS of tools and equipment but if your in the business, not difficult. Not a DIY thing due to equipment and brazing skills as demonstrated in this video.
Garden hoses and dehumidifiers... Two things one never needs to buy if a fixer. Garden hoses only need new brass barb fittings -- no worm-drive hose clamps, use flush-fitting wire clamps (see the ClampTite tool and/or the associated DIY-built clones). The last dehumidifier I dragged home on trash day was a very nice Whirlpool example. The compressor would run even if the unit was switched off via the electronic control panel. The compressor would run until thermal overload. Okay, I dove into the electronic controller board and discovered the compressor relay was stuck in the "on" position. The control side of the relay was being commanded correctly from the electronic controller board. With a brand new relay sourced off eBay, I desolered off the old one and installed the new one. The thing now works like a dream! Actually, better than a dream since the dehumidifier was free and fixed with an hour or two of diagnostic time and fifteen minutes of electronic soldering.
Thanks for the info on the "Purple" guns. I looked at my gun that had #62300 on the box and bought about a year ago. The 1.4 nozzle had the improved extra holes and the longer housing, but no tool to remove the fluid nozzle, (the black part) so I'm going to make a wrench as you advise to remove it. My older gun, #67181 on the box, seems to be a hybrid, still no wrench in the box, but it has the improved 1.4 nozzle as the newer gun, but the shorter housing. I haven't used either gun, they're still new in the box, but it should be interesting to compare the spray patterns between the two. Once I remove the black fluid nozzle, the comparison should be interesting.
Brake rotors are either cast iron or ceramic. No auto manufacturer or offbrand uses a more expensive material than cast iron because cast iron performs better for braking purposes than mild or stainless steel. Stainless in general warps way faster then iron in braking applications due to its constant heat cycling, and would make the steel deform and become extremely brittle in the first couple hours of normal driving.
Yes, good point, and I had considered the propane option however I have not needed to cut enough to change over. More like once in a while something small. I should have upgraded the tanks on a trade in instead of keeping the small ones.
I laugh when you says it's common then say it's beckett ar wich I've never heard of and can't find anything about it on the internet. Although it does look like it takes industry standard parts. I wonder if becket just branded it for magic chef. But the chassis looks a bit different from an af/afg there common models
might seem strange but the back part of the needle and spring needs some grease. This is a sata copy, sata even sells grease for parts on their guns, just make sure you don't get it into the fluid area. This is a copy of the old Sata jet from 1990
That supplier sells that same gun out to several different distributors, I have one in red, and one in blue, same gun. They use whatever parts are cheapest and readily available to produce the gun that fits the specs, so you're not going to have the consistency of the assembly like you would from a reputable brand name (even they do the same thing sometimes). You could probably buy 1 every month for a year and find some small variation in the assembly, very normal for a lot of HF products.
I recently got a portable torch set like yours. My local welding shop filled my new oxygen tank, but acetylene was a swap out. Man at the shop explained the acetylene tanks are all filled in NJ (I'm in NY) and the shop that fills them keeps the new ones for their customers. I use mine for auto repair (heating up rusty nuts/bolts), quick cutting tasks.
I"m sure that you've figured something out by now but if not... If those are your choices, deck paint and stain tend to be pretty thick stuff, out of those guns I would grab the purple gun and drill out the nozzle (there's a few videos on here about modifying it for latex paint or for spraying primer). Honestly most deck finishes are not that fussy, I have a friend that was doing that kind of work professionally and his setup was a pump sprayer with a few gallon tank and a wand that he drilled a hole in the side of the tank and added an air fitting. If I remember right he had the compressor regulator set to 30psi and used the wand nossle to spray, and the capacity of the tank was enough that he could do most of a deck without refilling. If I was going to buy a gun specifically for it, I'd look at primer guns with the big (1L/1quart) aluminum cup, a suction feed primer gun or maybe even a pressure pot primer gun. All of them will be do a good job right out of the box.
