Let a friend borrow mine to try it, he did not want to bolt to his floor, he moved his bobcat forks over it and held down to floor with hydraulic arms on bobcat and it kept it real tight to floor.
I haven’t tried it with car tires yet, but I bought a tire machine from No-Mar for my motorcycle tires and it works great. I bought the version that slips into a receiver hitch so I didn’t need to drill holes in my concrete floor and risk hitting my hydronic heat tubes. The receiver hitch mount works great and I can also easily transport the unit elsewhere if I need to change tires for someone else.
I put plywood on a pallet and mounted the tire machine on the pallet. The pallet fits nicely in the corner of the garage and I can move it easily on a dolly. I have a diesel pickup and the tires on wheels weigh almost 100 lbs. I can't lift one on the tire machine so I tilt the tire machine and pallet and roll the tire to it put it on then tilt it back up. I only have to lift part of the weight this way. Leverage is awesome.
Thanks for sharing. One possible explanation for the drill bit failure is too high speed of the bit causing high temperatures, weakening the solder joint. When I split boulders I have to drill quite slowly otherwise the hard metal tips would fall off, tried water cooling but too messy, slower speed would make the tips last many holes.
Alternate solution for the drop in holes and protecting those threads, don’t need to 3d print anything just drill the depth a bit lower, use a shorter bolt when you’re not using the tire equipment and if the head is over the bare concrete a bit some short grinder work to turn it into a big huge flat head screw … anyway, I’ve done this before and the plastic can end up getting mushed in and pieces break off = pain in the butt
Hammer drills and good bits are wonderful things - until the tip comes off 😄. I should point out I got a new bit under warranty after showing them the video so Milwaukee certainly stand behind their products.
Hey John, thanks so much for your videos...working on building my tire changer with duck head mod and your install and tire changing videos have given me the confidence to try this on my own. Sick of getting my wheels scratched up/damaged as well. I did want to mention that i think there is a discrepency in the amazon links in the description...for me at least the 3/8" anchor link opens up into a 1/2 in anchor which doesn't match the drill bit and install tool listed. My fault for clicking and ordering blindly but had me scratching my head for a bit...not a big deal, just wanted to mention it in case others get tripped up. I ended up staying with the 1/2" anchor and got the correct install tool (1/2") and corresponding drill bit (5/8"). Thanks again!
Thanks for the info on the drop in anchor link. Sure enough, when I use my location of Canada it shows the 3/8 ones, but if I change to different location, then the 1/2 ones show up. I added another link so hopefully this new one is correct regardless of location, but Amazon links are ever changing and very much location dependent. Have fun with your manual changer 🙂
This will be interesting. One suggestion M. Salt ! Can you make a video on advantages of an hydronic floor heating system like yours ? I am currently planning a 2 car garage construction here in Quebec and I hesitate between different heating systems. Gas, hydronic,electricity, infrared,etc... I am leaning toward the hydronic but would appreciate your always pertinent opinion and precautions and the reason you chose this one. Thank you!
@1983dmd - I'm no HVAC/Hydronic expert, but the pros & cons are the same that you always read about when comparing heating systems. In slab hydronic is very comfortable, efficient, silent, easy to zone, maintains such an even temperature, it's invisible with very little maintenance (boiler dependent, ours is a 12kW electric boiler as we have no natural gas service here). Cons (specifically to a garage/shop) the biggest one in my opinion was already identified in the video; if you ever have to drill holes in your floor to mount equipment, it would be a costly disaster if you hit a pipe. If you are constantly opening and closing the doors it takes longer for the area to heat back up over a gas fired forced air or gas fired infrared tube unit. It might be more costly as well (up front), but I self-contracted our house build and did all the electrical, plumbing & hydronic work myself so labor cost difference was moot. As for why I specifically chose hydronic floor heating for our garage; we had it in our previous garage & once you've had it, in my opinion, you likely won't go back to any other heating method. You can run a lower temp and still feel warm. No drafts, air blowing/noise, cold or hot areas. The floor is never freezing cold which is really nice if you enjoy spending time on a creeper as I do. Also seeing that we have no natural gas service way out here, electric boiler hydronic was simply the best electric heating option for a garage/basement slab. The only other realistic one was electric base board and I certainly didn't want to deal with those miserable things. 😀
@@Rchelicopterfun Thank you very, very much for this elaborate answer ! Your comments reflect what I have read and heard...Now I have to decide if I tackle the installation myself. May I ask where you found the most useful installation information ? I can do basic plumbing and electricity but do you need more elaborate skills ?
@1983dmd - I would say if you've soldered copper pipe & fittings before and installed & crimped PEX tubing, you should have no surprises on the skill side of things. Hydronic installs are very much a DIY project if you don't go crazy with multiple pump zoning/bypass mixing and what not. Ours is very simple with a single pump and multiple valved zones for several tile areas in the house, the basement, garage and even two rows of ice melt on the sloped driveway. I did a video a number of years ago when one of the flow indicators in our system was sticking if you wanted to see the basic layout as I talk about it a bit at the beginning: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-8yKnmEqkIHc.html My wife & I laid all that hydronic PEX pipe shown in the picture in this tire changer video in one weekend. It was fun too and it looks pretty neat when you're done. As for info, did lots of reading on various systems, but the best info came from where we got all the equipment (Bartle & Gibson). Not sure if there are any Bartle & Gibson CO plumbing distributors down east (they might only be out west here), but they basically gave me everything I needed in terms of product information & overall design. They are an Allied Engineering dealer (the manufacture of the electric boiler we have) and they/Allied had one of their system designers size everything and provide an entire order form and schematic - I just followed the plan. The design fee was waived as long as we purchased the equipment from them/Bartle. Perhaps Allied Engineering (alliedboiler.com) still offers that service and there is dealer in your area that has a similar arrangement with them or another manufacturer popular in your area? Other reason we went with Allied is they are a BC manufacturer so parts are easy to get here. Only had to replace one of the contactors in the boiler in all these years so their boilers seem to be good little units, at least the electric ones - they also have gas of course.
@@Rchelicopterfun Again a big thank you for taking the time to write this reply ! You comments are appreciated. I am familiar with copper tubes soldering and PEX installation, so I should be OK ! Next summer project !!
I installed hydronic in my slab and it is fantastic for a workshop. It is the most comfortable heat to work on. I keep my shop at 60-65 and it is very comfortable to work in as warm feet make you feel warm all over. And the lack of drafts from convection currents is nice. I have a small wall mounted gas fired boiler and the 50,00 BTUH boiler is more than enough to heat my 32’ x 48’ shop when it is 0º F outside. The only downside to in-slab hydronic is response time. It takes hours to heat up the slab and hours for it to cool. Even with outdoor reset on my boiler, you simply can’t anticipate and accommodate fast temperature changes. When the temp drops quickly on a cold winter night, the temp in the building will sag 2-3 degrees below set point. When the temp rises quickly on a warmer and sunnier winter day, the temp in the shop will overshoot 2-3 degrees. It is simply the one downside of having a huge thermal mass.
I hope you got that defective 1/2 inch milwaukie bit replaced under warranty. They shouldn't fail like that -- especially a name brand like Milwaukie. BTW, the link to the anchors is to plain zinc coated -- not the stainless you used. I thought you would want to know. Cheers from Oregon, Philip
Yep, the place I got the bit from replaced it, no questions asked. Amazon didn't have any stainless inserts when I was looking for the link to add - so stuck with the zinc ones which for most applications will be perfectly fine.
Haha, Nope, no tracking, just getting sick & tired of driving 600km round trip and wasting an entire day to get something as simple as new running shoes for our vehicles installed or a patch fit. Very well may still waste an entire day doing it myself, but I'd much rather waste a day in the peaceful garage over driving to the big shcity. 😀
Awesome videos! Very informative! I noticed that the tire changer you bought says it does 8” - 16”, and you changed a 20”? So you can do bigger wheels and tires than the 16” limit? Thank you!
Wheel size is dependent on the length of the duck-head modification swing arm, not the manual tire changer. The swing arm on this specific duck-head mod is 12" so it can do up to a 24" wheel.
If you had a 20" swing arm for the duck-head mod, you could do a monster 40" wheel. The length of the duck-head swing arm equals the maximum radius of the wheel. For a 20" wheel you would therefore "technically" need a 10" long swing arm. I think all the duck head mods (unless you build your own) have at least 11" long arms to accommodate up to 22" wheels. Again, this specific one I got from that eBay Seller in Canada has a 12" arm for up to 24".
😮 It’s too bad the manual tire changer kits are not useable as is, and have to be heavily modded. I have most tools including air tools, but not a welder or 3D printer.
Yep, would be nice if there was a complete out of box manual changer with a correctly sized duckhead attachment; but until that time, we have to purchase the duckhead mod separately or build our own. The manual changer itself is far from heavily modified. Only mod I did was beef up the bead breaking arms. Beefing up the breaker arms is just a precaution if you have stubborn beads or some dumbass at the tire shop used bead sealant which essentially glues the beads to your rims. For all the wheels/tires I've done so far (20 in total now), anecdotally I have found it to be overkill. Even if you do decide to beef up the bead arms, no welder is needed; you could just as easily bolt angle iron to the bead breaking foot arms. As with all DIY projects - use what you have on hand to make it work, necessity is the mother of invention. BTW. I did metal epoxy two rare earth magnets to the bead breaking bar and plate to keep the breaker bar from crashing down on the wheels - that is working well so far 🙂
Rain, snow, cold??? All depends on the specific environment. Tires can't be ice cold when mounting - too stiff. This equipment will rust over time in rain, etc...
SoCal would be a perfect outdoor environment for a little manual tire changer! Toss a garbage bag or plastic tarp over it when not in use - potential rust issue solved. 🙂
