I wanted to develop this channel simply to share some of my own interests. If its mechanical, machine related or even electronic (hardware) then it may show up here. Cars, trucks, tractors and motorbikes... I like em all. I found at an early stage in my mechanically varied career (Engine building, Car & Truck MX, Airplanes, Electronics, modification and restoration work, etc..) that I would become the default "machinist" guy, so I will be basing most of my videos around that. Maybe you'll get lucky and even get to see some my nutty farm boy solutions to problems as they occur. Hope you stick around and get a good laugh. Don
I have a craftsman benchtop 150(?) I bought inthe mid 80's and was barely used. 75.00 and was worth every penny and is still in excellent condition today!!
Oh YA, these are the best for sure. Love mine. My grandson has been coveting it since he was old enough to walk. Loves to play with it I think I know who'll get it when I'm gone. Don
Jeez, not really sure. I broke it years ago and drilled it out and welded in some drill rod that was the right match. I've picked up a box full of pin wrenches at the flea market for next to nothing and don't really notice the size I use. I just match them the job. Lazy brains at work.
I picked up an old mill for a good price (its not in the best shape), but previous owner had been using grease where it should have been oil... Any tips? I was thinking about pumping a penetrating oil or alcohol in there every day for a while to see if I can get it all out...
I had that issue. I made an oil pressure gun (there's a video on that) and simply overpowered th e old grease with oil to flush it. Automotive motor oil is a good flush out as it contains a lot of detergent. Then I go behind with the proper lube. Don
I bought a vfd for a regenerative blower I have but it won't work because the blower motor is wired in a wye configuration. These cheap vfds have to be used with delta wired motors.
What size Tip are you using I just put together a brand new set that I had laying around for 20 years and the tip is just junk I’ve kind of forgotten some of my sizes and numbers, this tip wouldn’t heat anything up that I had to cut, the first I was trying to heat up and cut was 3/16 steel just wouldn’t do anything I have to look at all this because it drove me nuts and I had to go to another method which took two hours cutting with a cut off wheel
Brilliant idea and superb instructions. Just picked up a 618 two days ago with tooling on original Craftsman workbench. The owner had been given it and didn't use it. But the best part is it was advertised as an Atlas 3950 so I was pleasantly surprised. Going to make this modification in a few weeks when I pick up my mill. Do you have a recommendation on the tool post brand? Thank You
On the tool post brand.. Well, if you can swing the cost of an aloris. Otherwise all the knock offs are pretty much the same and will do the job. Good buy. Don
I had a lot of wobble in my upper wheel. To fix this, I wrapped heavy duty aluminum foil and contact cement around the tensioner slide bars. Between every 2 layers of foil, I brushed a little DAP contact cement, taking care not to have any cement get on the outside surface of the foil and then pushed the bar into the axle adjusting slide groove. I repeated this process until I had almost no wobble on either side individually, and NO wobble when both slider bars were wrapped and form fitted to 2.5mm I found that 2.5 mm is the sweet thickness on the sliders. The aluminum foil is only a MacGyver temporary quick fix. I did it to get through a project, and it's holding up surprisingly well. After I finish this current project, I'm going to have my cousin mill me up a couple of new sliders to 2.5mm uniform thickness. The biggest problems I find is that with these cheap saws, is the loose the tolerances make precision cutting iffy at best. RU-vid has a lot of great instructional videos on how to "tighten up" the slop and and make it a very serviceable and respectable machine. BTW, you're absolutely correct about not skimping on the blades. The OEM blade is junk. I put a Harbor Freight "top of the line" all purpose blade, and It made a big difference. I also bought a Starrett 99192-05-04-1/2 Intenss Bimetal Band Saw Blade, Powerband M42, 1/2-inch Width, 0.025-inch Thickness, 5 ft.-4-1/2-inch Welded Band Length, Pitch (TPI): 14. I haven't put it on the saw yet, and probably won't until I get my slide bars machined, but Starrett has been a major quality manufacturer for a very long time and I expect their highly rated blade to be among the best. Whatever other tolerances I can tighten up, I'll let you know.
Don , I've been watching your vids on this Atlas-C mods. Very fascinating! I just bought one of these lathes, though it's older than yours I think. I've got it running, but would like to look into all three of your addons for my machine. Could you list the actual names/brands/models of these items? As I too want to reduce the loud clanking. BTW, I saw your compound post mount mod too! That is sweet! Thanks Paddiman772
😂😂😂 I have,the same model in Pakistan ! ! !in good working condition ! ! !great piece of old all metal good quality forever to use power tool ! ! !God bless America.
God bless you. Carrier frequency set from 6khz to 15khz( maximum value for my vfd). no more noise. although at a very low rpm there is still a humm, but I don't really use under 100rpm. Now it's time to change the fan of the vfd, a small noctua should do.
where in florida are you? i have a ford e-250 van and i was trying to remove the bolts that hold the front sway bar bushing house and one of them was so seized that it broke 3 of my sockets, LOL well they weren't snap on, but they where husky from home depot and im taking them back to them to see what they say , with there life time warrantty bs, anyways thank you for sharing and hope to here from you , i'm in Naples , Fl. so i would really appreciate your feed back. thankx
Hi, i was wondering..if you have a shaft that produces vibrations and you want to measure the 2 bearing at the ends of the shaft...will it measure corrct???
Outstanding video---I have an old Logan...and boy you aren't kidding that the compound rest is the weak point. I am going to attempt this next weekend!!
Hey James, Thanks for watching. Actually I did this so long ago, that I forgot what the hold p was. More than Likely the waiting on my buddy to print the King Seeley tag. Don
I want to build a test bench for a diesel VE type injection pump off a 1HZ Toyota coaster engine. Not sure the total RMP i will need think about 2200RMP and or maybe 3600RPM max for a short while. Can someone in the know run over these numbers and tell me if this VFD will match up to my motor. I'm totally new at this stuff first go at doing anything wow big learning experience. I will post vids on my channel eventually when i get it all set up. Thanks for any help!! Motor Specs: 1 HP, 0.75kW, 50 HZ, 1405 RMP, INS F, AMB 45 o Celcius, CONT. RATING, TYPE AEEB-NECC, 240V, 3.24A, TRIANGLE SYMBOL NEXT TO THIS CONFIGURATION. 415V, 1.87A, THREE PRONGED AIRPLANE PROPELLER SYMBOL NEXT THIS RATINGS!! Will my VFD with these below specs suit? Inpute Frequency 45-65 Hz Output Frequency 0.1-400 Hz Input Voltage AC 200-260V Output Voltage AC 220V Humidity 10-95% Relative Humidity (without dew) Control Mode SPWM Input Phase 1 or 3 Phase Output Phase 3 Phase Vibration 0.4 G Horsepower 2 HP Input Current 7.5 A Output Current 10 A Thank you
You shouldn't have an issue with it, but be sure to set your max frequency down to around 80Hz or you'll have a mess. Also your start up/Min on a 50Hz motor will want o be around 30Hz. Any lower and the drop off will kill it. Don
What motor are you running??? Do you have parameters set properly. Also try going bac to factory setting and resetting if you find everything else properly set up and continues. Don
@donsengine3158 I've found it was working perfectly and kicked out because the load on the motor was too high. I'll have to get a higher hp motor to do the work.
Buona sera, aumentando la frequenza del driver, si elimina il fischio fastidioso, ma aumentano le perdite nel pacco statorico del motore che è concepito per 50/60Hz senza troppe armoniche. Il motore così facendo potrebbe scaldarsi di più inutilmente. Buona serata.
Good point, and i probably should have mentioned that the manual allows for given frequency settings based on the motor size/capacity allowing for this issue. I was definitely within the safe zone with this set up. Don
I have this same lathe, have you ever changed the belts?, I went to the LINK belts, I'm having fits to get the belts to go through without it flipping....tried the "lazy" way out, but may have to take the gears loose to put on original ones..... would like to have a defendant model number for this one....got a model number 101.28900 & 101.28910 Parts book, it was as close as Icould get.... have not found the exact number...would you happen to know? like your video, mine is very tight ...no play what so ever. But may need video if I change the belt. :(
Oh jeez.. I'm not a fan at all of the link belts. I may get pummeled for that, but I just don't see them performing as well as a proper V belt. I don't have the actual part number on hand. I know that the Atlas/craftsman parts are posted on line somewhere. I run across them from time to time. Probably one of the Craftsman lathe forums has them archived. Personally when i need something like that, I just get the old part out and go match it up at one of the industrial suppliers. I would also tear my machine down to change them out. I would give me reason to do some good cleaning and lube and replace anything worn. Let me know how it turns out. Don
@@donsengine3158 i did put the link belts on they are well, but on the bull gear the small pull out button will not come out, might get another one, and when i do i'll go back with the correct belts, having trouble with my engagement handle not going in as far as it needs to, which is causing belt slippage... but i enjoying working on it....your videos are great, one of my friends down the road has the same lathe, he is helping out!
So i dont understand, you need to rewire the motor to 230v from 415v otherwise the vfd wont work on it? If the motor doesn't have that option, then is it to be trashed and replaced with single phase motor, no need for vfd?
Hey Jim. I don't quite follow. If your VFD has 230V output, the motor needs to be a 230V motor. Some VFDs step up. I have a 120 Input VFD that steps up to 230 Volts for example. You can run single phase in and its converted to three phase out. I understand that there are some single phase motors that can be run off a VFD. It seems like a waste if its true. If your dealing with a 415V motor then it needs a matched VFD.
Ya, probably cause there are enough lazy techs that don't want to take the time to re-clean all the surfaces. I've been round the block on that issue, and until you get a comeback with the very edge of the valve burnt to a crisp and everybody is scratching their heads.... Why, because the NEW head experts want to by-pass a step. Whether its to ensure a proper seat position, lap it in or just peace of mind, as far as i'm concerned, there's no school like old school. My 2C.
So is keeping the lathe level just a way to make sure the bed is not twisted, ie I would think a non twisted bed should cut properly even upside down or sideways.( other than the chips would fall differently)....as from the material perspective it doesnt know what way is down. Or am I missing something really basic that it being level fixes that a non twisted and non level bed would have a problem with (very possible I am missing something basic).
