I bought the cheapest VFD on Ebay. Wire it, Program it, Test it. 

Thanks, ive just got my VFD working after having it for months!

I recently converted my Delta 14" saw to metal cutting (two-step v-belt reduction) with a 3-phase motor and VFD. Excellent results, BTW. Here's a tip for you. Set the VFD at 50Hz and measure the blade speed. Enter that number as your P21 parameter. (Normally you would enter motor RPM or final RPM @ 50Hz.) Then go to P62 and enter parameter of 2. Now the VFD will display blade speed directly, rather than output frequency.

Thanks for the review. A couple of cautions -- 1. ALWAYS clamp or bolt down a motor under test. If something goes wrong, it can jump off the table -- at you. 2. Over-rev-ing older motors (above 60 Hertz, as it were) can cause early bearing failure. If you need higher final speeds of the overall equipment, consider using different pulley sizes.

Good info. Helped to clear things out about programing. Cheers from North Port, Fl.

Thanks for going through this exercise for us. I have a motor and VFD just to do the same to my Powermatic wood bandsaw so I can cut mild steel. I think that was a success!

Thank you Don. Excellent tutorial.

Great info don, great video, keep'um coming..

you did very well explaining, nobody did it, man, thank you.

I’ve got a couple of expensive VFDs, and three inexpensive models. All work. I’ve got one that’s the same as this one. It’s actually built very well. It’s got a large, well designed, heat sink. Tapping the plastic cover is about as useful in telling you how well it’s built, as kicking the tires on a car. But the case is fine. My $2,000 (in 2002) Fuji industrial model for my lathe, has a case that’s no thicker. Neither is that on my Schneider Electric model, for $950. The problem using VFDs is that while many programming instructions and factory settings are the same, enough are different so that I can’t just go from one to the other without thinking about it. Some have the controls set to local, and some to remote. Some use up arrows for moving numbers up, and some down. Some of these differences can be very confusing for new users, and some seem to defy common sense. And for last, I always buy inverter ready motors for VFDs. While it won’t matter if it’s on a drill press, because of the short on times, and you keep the frequencies to 45-60. But move out of that range on a machine with a continuous use, such as that bandsaw, a mill or lathe, and you can get into trouble., as the motor will begin to overheat, and have other problems. I imagine that for home use it likely won’t be a problem, but it’s something to keep in mind, particularly if the machine is under heavy load. Then, filling all of the motor parameters into the VFD becomes important, as does setting it for that particular use, if the VFD allows. Just since you mentioned it, wood is usually cut between 3,000-4,000 SFM. But then, you use a woodcutting blade as well. I can’t bother, so I use the 10/14 tooth blade for most everything.

That worked great, great video!

Excellent video , explained very well just got one from Amazon a few minutes ago and this video will help me a lot , thanks.

Nice work 👍

I like the idea of see through guards.

All of the drives from 3 to 250 HP that I installed & troubleshoot would have factory parameter set so on a 480 volt motor at 25% of full speed would have 15 hertz output. 50% of full speed would have 30 Hertz. ( that us if you have the normal 60 Hertz from Ultility company ). If the cheap VFD does not have built in quick blow fuses I would install them in the input side of drives. I always ordered drives with fuses and a disconnect. Nice thing about drives that if you have a vibration problem near full speed say on a air handler fan you can program the maximum speed down 5 to 10 Hertz until fan is balanced properly.

morning Don, Paul here in Florida, this should be intresting....cheers from Orlando, Paul

Hey Don, Just purchased on for my Bridgeport Mill, have to hook it up..... thanks for the info keep up the good work

Thanks for the video. The plate around the blade is aluminum for when it shifts and touches the blade teeth.

great video Don, what is the adjustment to make to have a maximum of torque at low speed without generating whistles and to preserve my engine?

Interesting video, the saw will become much more versatile with the VFD and you'll need to change belt setting less often. From the video seems that the saw frame flexes a little bit and looks a periodic thing so there could be something bent. Also the right bearing on the upper blade guide was not tightened.

@23:54 Wood is cut at 5000 surface feet per minute.

I’ve just bought the same one. Wired it up to test but haven’t really used it yet. The only thing I don’t like is the wiring inputs. There is no provision for securing the cables. I think I’ll mount it on plywood and secure both input and output cables with clamps. Also, there is only one earth connection, very awkward to connect earth to motor from vfd.

THANK YOU: I was just trying to figure out my new cheap e-bay VFD and you saved the day. I also purchased 2 VFd's now worry about the 2nd one. I did notice your sanitary blade guide is set too deep causing rubbing on the teeth of the blade and will quickly rub the kerf off.

Great video, made programing much easier. A question though, I keep getting error 1 overload/short circuit before motor even spins. Any ideas? The wiring looks fine and it's the right size vfd for the motor.

I just received a '220V VFD 1.5KW 2.2KW 4KW Single phase to 3 Phase, 2hp-3hp inverter Frequency Converter Frequency Drive Spindle Speed Control' for US $38.90 + Shipping: US $50.35 to Peru from aliexpress. I'm going to build the 'Gen 2 72 x 2" Grinder' by Jeremy Schmidt, with a 1.5-2 Hp motor.

Morning Don , if you were just cutting steel which saw would you prefer this one or the stater motor gear reduction one ?

Question for the peanut gallery, can I put a receiving (female) plug on the output side of the VFD and a male plug on input side? I'm going to be using it for my 2x72, but I also want to use it for my hydraulic press which is what its connected to now. (same HP, both 3 phase 220)

Great review thanks, I have a question, my mains is 230v can a VFD run a 110v fan directly or will I still need to use the transformer that came with my fan? Also my fan motor is single phase incase that would make any difference?

Hi Don. Thanks for this video. I own a bench lathe (motor: three-phase, 1.1kw and 1400rpm) and a VFD AT-1 model. I would like to install a brake resistor, but I don't know if in this VFD I can install a brake resistor and what is the proper value. Please, could you help me? Thanks again.

How can you tell by looking at a AC motor if it's an 'asynchronous/induction' or a 'synchronous' motor? For example, I've got a small, low-speed, 3-phase (400hz) 110v ac motor for an air-compressor. The rating on the label doesn't say much except that it's input power is 1.6A RMS Max. Reason I ask is that I'm also looking for a portable power-supply for it and found a $75 "HKS VFD 0.75KW 1HP 110V 1 Phase Input 3 Phase 0-400HZ Output 10A" but it says in bold letters, "for ASYNCHRONOUS motors ONLY!" It also says it uses a 5V or 10V PWM control frequency. So I'm confused if this will work, or is there something better suited/cheaper like Vevor? All I need is to spin the motor, one direction, at a constant/default speed (no "PWM").. and turn it on/off from the panel (RS485 would be nice but not necessary).

Yes sir I got vfd just like your from Ebay ,I watching your video about programming but having problem on P0018 wanted to change to 60htz but it won't do anything it show 400.0 every times.what's you think the problem? Thank you.english not my first language.

you need to upsize your VFDs if you are going from single phase to 3 phase

Have you ever used an ATO brand vfd on anything?

Eh… I bought the same VFD as you… cheap. Man they work great! Can’t complain… in fact… I have a hitachi… expensive one… guess what… to get it to power up I gotta tap it with a tool and then it comes to life… sooooo… you sayin these are crap….. so far my “quality “ one is the crap one.

So i dont understand, you need to rewire the motor to 230v from 415v otherwise the vfd wont work on it? If the motor doesn't have that option, then is it to be trashed and replaced with single phase motor, no need for vfd?

If you plug it out you need to start programming again?

Bought this same one. It kicks out at 40hz

How is the vfd holding up a yr later?

I have 15 hp electric motor three phase and in the building I only have single phase. can you recommend what converter I can buy and how much I’m looking to spend

17:00

Prices?

You wired the input to the drive and said 250vac, 230v is standard for a house in the US so with that said, there is no neutral. Two phases of 120vac will provide 230v single phase power although no neutral just a ground Why are you speaking about a neutral? 5:24

I do hope you realize that translations from English to Chinese are not any better - but there are not very many products made in English-speaking countries that are sold in China it's because English- speaking countries prefer to have their products produced in China they are cheaper - it is still an option cheaper, bad manuals, or expensive and maybe better manuals because they are then mostly made in India. Or we could just learn Chinese and read the original.

Life long sparky and I never purchase or use any electrical, safety & test equipment or LED'S made in lying cheating lack of quality control communist china. Had way too many defects & short time life span with garbage from cheating china. My cheap boss purchased the cheapest 5 HP VFD that china loving WW Grainger stocked. He spent over 6 hours trying to program the POS. even made several phone calls to their worthless tech support. He returned it for a made in good old USA drive and had it programmed in just a few minutes. Worked on hundreds of great Danfoss VLT & FC drives and horrible tech support ABB VFD'S. We have a great Danfoss tech that only charges around $200 to $225 to do a start up. This extends the free parts & labor to three years.

Such a boring, long time video

Don, by the time I post this you've had your VFD +8 months by now. The model I purchased was also inexpensive but has thus far been a blessing. I totally agree that the VFD is one of the most valuable upgrades one can make. The mere fact that it puts a 3 Phase motor to work in my shop is a giant leap forward. My VFD is rated at 1.5KW. it's a Soyanpower model SVD-E, which means nothing in today's huge China market. It's probably marketed under a variety of names and models. My user manual says that my model includes an upgrade that protects the Input Diode-Capacitor Bus from enormous inrush currents at mains turn on that past models were prone to. That said my user manual still stresses repeatedly the dangers of repeated turn on's and off's. They actually wanted the user to wait 2 hours after mains turn off before reconnecting! EEEEK! My guess is that the text in the manual was never amended with the Soft Start upgrade. I call it Soft Start but the industry name for it is "Pre-Charge Current Limiting". It is explained in this VFD video by a different manufacturer. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-HayryySX_po.html Since my model didn't include a schematic I wasn't taking any chances and built my own external limiter that connects between my 240V mains and the VFD 240V input terminals. Now, at worst case I have double Inrush Current protection!😉 The second thing I did was mount an auxiliary fan on the motor's fan bell. I did this is because the motor's integral fan is connected to the motor's armature. When you slow a motor down to low rpm that fan isn't moving any air! Hence, the motor will overheat under load. The small box fan I chose is a 120V model and is not supplied by the VFD. At the moment it runs at full rpm whenever the motor is running. I will be modifying that logic to keep the fan running after the motor has stopped until a thermostat tells the fan to shut off when the motor has cooled off. Don, I'm guessing that you and I are a short drive from each other. We will break beer together one day soon. I know you drink beer because you have the classic beer physique much like mine. Mine is just much older! Wakodahatchee Chris

I want to build a test bench for a diesel VE type injection pump off a 1HZ Toyota coaster engine. Not sure the total RMP i will need think about 2200RMP and or maybe 3600RPM max for a short while. Can someone in the know run over these numbers and tell me if this VFD will match up to my motor. I'm totally new at this stuff first go at doing anything wow big learning experience. I will post vids on my channel eventually when i get it all set up. Thanks for any help!! Motor Specs: 1 HP, 0.75kW, 50 HZ, 1405 RMP, INS F, AMB 45 o Celcius, CONT. RATING, TYPE AEEB-NECC, 240V, 3.24A, TRIANGLE SYMBOL NEXT TO THIS CONFIGURATION. 415V, 1.87A, THREE PRONGED AIRPLANE PROPELLER SYMBOL NEXT THIS RATINGS!! Will my VFD with these below specs suit? Inpute Frequency 45-65 Hz Output Frequency 0.1-400 Hz Input Voltage AC 200-260V Output Voltage AC 220V Humidity 10-95% Relative Humidity (without dew) Control Mode SPWM Input Phase 1 or 3 Phase Output Phase 3 Phase Vibration 0.4 G Horsepower 2 HP Input Current 7.5 A Output Current 10 A Thank you

This VFD is crap! Spent over 3 days trying to make it work and failed 🦧🤡