How fo people still not understand this, heat (steam) rises, so your stove needs to be either so huge in comparison to your sauna that it is able to pump out enough steam to fill the ENTIRE room, OR you can do it the proper way, and make sure your stove is at or below your foot level when sitting on the bench, and your head as close to the ceiling as possible, as in within 1-2 ft. There is no reason for your sauna to have a meter of dead space above your head, might as well go sit outside and throw water in the snow at that point. Saunas should have proper ventilation also, one below, one above, and dead space, meaning below your feet snd above your head should be minimized, you can even build solid benches if you want, and that way you arent wasting heat in the dead space underneath the bench. Also, if you have a very large, height wise, or width wise, you need to make sure your sauna stove is big enough to heat all of that volume. Oh yeah, and make sure you dont leave exposed metal fasteners to burn your ass or back on.
Haha there are a few things I do differently, but the “air gap” between the foil and cedar isn’t one of them. Enjoy your smaller sauna, bud. I’lll bet you bake at 160° 😂
You didnt tape the foil with foil tape where you have ovelaps ..your heat will escape in to your insulation .. , and you need to leave space betwwen wood and foil
Pretty good overall. But the benches are too low. Normal rule of thumb is 48" under the ceiling for the top bench, then 18" below for the next etc. Otherwise you wont get the Loyly, and will end up with cold feet and a super warm head.
The air gap planks are more for commercial use due to the heavy use of many people and the heat being in for more than 2 hours . A home sauna will be fine without it .
I love your take on the classic log reindeer. This kicks things up a notch, with a more proportional neck and beveled cuts for the ears and tail. I’ve been puzzling over how to improve the design of the front and back legs, keeping my eyes open for crotched mid-size branches that bend in the appropriate direction. Thank you for sharing. 🇨🇦
Lack of furring strips to create an air gap between the paneling and reflective foil will result in a lot of heat loss through conduction. This is the most-common error I see in sauna installations.
Most sources I've seen recommend 1/2 to 3/4 inch (13 to 19mm), and I'd go with that. I have seen as little as 1/4 inch, but I wouldn't go that small. For one thing, at that size, the furring strips would be pretty fragile and prone to splitting.
@@matthewshepherd826use cor-a-vent as furring, you can but in different thickness, and super easy to cut, screw, and it has breathing holes all throughout, its almost like thick cardboard strips, but it's plastic.
MUY buena calidad, el texto imagenes. ru-vid.comUgkxbnOKZBE4evMO5V2vroHeCjq6d_MV6wJO Un manuel muy completo y trabajado. Resulta muy práctico. Para principiantes y profesionales. Lo recomiendo
For me, the ideas in ru-vid.comUgkxy_pn55PK60wAV3X_C_RoLS_67mNonoCE Plans were a starting point for building different sheds . Ryan gives ideas that allow an individual to draw nicest conclusions into the design and building of his or her own shed.
If you use the fresh wood, it will most likely crack. I used the old tree that was already pretty dry. To get long ears, cut at a sharp angle, 20-30 degrees or so.
Wood will naturally crack as it dries. Many people don't bother drying the wood and don't care about cracks. You could drill a large right at the center of the wood slice which might prevent cracking, and cover it with larger buttons. Another option is to buy dry wood slices and use them for your project.
I have some comments seeing a couple of different video's about the same subject. At the same time that is my advice if you want to build one of these barrels, sauna's AND hot tubs, watch as many videos as you can find before making your own plan. Fastening every outer board with a screw bocks the effect of the stainless steel bands to push the outer boards so close together they are "water tight". That would also have prevented to have to cut the top board in half. So in my opinion it's better to not screw the boards above the height of foundation beams. The hinges for the bench box in the front area. When you put both the flaps down, on the wall as well as on the back of the seat, you only will see the pivot of the hinges and the hinge will have the same amount of pivot. Have fun woodworking, thanks for this video.
I'm in the middle of building a custom basement sauna and have a question about ventilation hoping to get some feedback from those with experience - the adjacent room is a 7'x7' bedroom closet and the other side is a large rec. room, can I exhaust into the bedroom closet or is there a concern of too much humidity being pumped into such a small space? Also, should I close off this vent during use then open it once I'm done? I'm assuming you would want to keep the heat in as much as possible while you use it. Lastly, for the intake, rather than a vent I'm planning on keeping the door 1/2" above the floor which is also where the heater will be located - would this suffice?
I've never built indoor saunas, but i would be concerned about both the high heat and the humidity.. is there a way to run a small 3inch hvac ducting out to the outside like maybe in a ceiling joist of the basement? the vents are to allow oxygen in and out.. poor designed saunas with no airflow will lead to light headedness and dizziness in high heat. those vents wont make too much difference with a heat roaring at 180F.. my main sauna is in the mtns of Idaho and i have 4in intake wide open at the base by the wood stove and then diagonally across the sauna at the ceiling is the next 4in outlet which is usually wide open also, even at single digit outside temps.. and it make no difference inside the sauna.. for the intake that you mentioned that should be enough.. depending on the airflow movement in your home.. modern highly sealed homes make air travel more difficult.. but start with that door gap and see.. worst case you'll need to add a secondary intake vent.
My old room was literally right next to our basement sauna, and the idiots who built that sauna did just that, vented it into my room instead of outside. That room was its own sauna every time someone was taking a sauna, my room got hot, and SUPER humid,DO NOT vent it back into your house, it's meant to exhaust to the outdoors to get rid of the steam, and exchange air.