Hi Nico, my problem is that I can't switch to neutral when the engine is running, I have to stop it. lh3.googleusercontent.com/-VGtPGM6Wf_A/TmkbZp1XPLI/AAAAAAAACHc/fMRjcO4sLyQ/s800/plst_d15.jpg I suspect the 4. part may have failed. Can i reach this part without the full engine disamble?
@@azxyember A 3VN/3SX tank Does not follow the lines of a 1JK/1XL frame exactly. It's not very visible. Only if you know it you might notice it. My frame is black and so is the tank which make it even harder to see. I didn't make any cut's btw. The only thing i changed on the tank is the two mounting points where the tank is screwed on the frame. There i had to make some cut's and fold the backend of the tank into shape to fit the frame.
Nico, I don't know if you're watching the comments on your videos. Have another question for you. I replaced my check valve and put the bike back together last fall. I had a small oil leak coming from the clutch cover gasket. A couple weeks ago I bought a new gasket and took the clutch cover back off. I could not find the source of the leak. I put the new gasket on and put the cover back on and found that the decompression cable was too tight to connect to the lever for the valves.. l wondered if you know what could cause this. I had trouble getting the kickstarter nut off. Had to use an impact wrench. Could that have altered the length of the decompression cable? Have I created some catastrophic damage? Right now I am recovering from surgery so I can't look at it. So I hoped by the time I recovered, you'd answer. Thank you.
Lovely build, If I may add there are two things that I personally would have done differently, Very minor and just personal preference, One I would have the headlamp mounted above the clip ons' and two the clocks would be side by side in a double holder, That's it the rest is about as near perfect as you can get!!! Thanks for posting!!
Hi Nico,thankyou for the video as i am going to attempt to change my clutch on srx400 1JL. I think you started and finished with friction plates,so there are only 7 steel plates not 8? The new clutch i bought on ebay cheap only has 7 steel and no ring supplied. I hope i can re use ring if part of old clutch. There is a noise sounds like plates me be loose in my current old clutch. What is the purpose of the ring? regards
@Nico - The work you did on your SRX600 is FANTASTIC!! I'm restoring my SRX600 racebike back to a street bike. The custom battery box and under-fender are brilliant. I need exactly those custom bits for my bike. I think there are many SRXer's who have removed the air box and done the same air-filter-pod modification as you did. Are you planning of offering those custom items for sale? If so I'm interested!
After completing the work, health problems prevented me from starting the bike until yesterday. Put a fresh oil filter in, as well as 2 quarts of the Mobile 1 10W-40 racing oil I've been using the past several years. Bike started on the second kick! A bit irregular idle, due to old gas. (It has been sitting in the garage since last October, and it is now almost June.) Ran fine when it warmed up thoroughly. I rode a few happy miles. Returned the bike ti the garage and later in the day came out to check the oil level. It had fallen considerably. #@^%^&&*! So not sure the new check valve fixed anything. It's supposed to hold some of the oil in the upper tank. Could it be that the Mobile 1 is so slippery it gets past the check valve? I'll have to drain it out, buy some regular oil and see. I guess I should've tried a different oil before going to the expense and work of changing the check valve.
It's not the end of the world. The oil is in the sump and check valves always leak a little bit. As soon as you start the engine the scavenge pump will level the oil in a matter of minutes. That's why you need to check oil on a warmed up engine. Just try an you will see the oil returns at the right level
@@U2pSandman Not a little bit. The upper tank drains completely in about 2 hours. I am of course very disappointed. I went through a fair amount of expense here in the states to get the parts, and worked for HOURS scraping the old glued on gasket off without damaging the case and clutch cover. I also sweat bullets cutting the old oil seal (kick starter) out of the clutch cover. And the work didn't seem to accomplish anything. I'm not blaming anyone. I just wish I hadn't bothered to do any of the work.
Ran into yet another problem. Oil seal was apparently super glued or lock-tighted into place. I couldn't budge it with the slide hammer I devised, and the tool had a very good purchase on the seal. I had the cover bolted down to the bench for the operation too. Eventually I destroyed the seal. I tried catching the metal lip with a steel rod and hammering it out from the backside. Nothing worked. Finally clamped the cover down to my employer's milling machine table, indicated the center of the bore, and used a carbide boring bar to cut the damn thing out. I cleaned out the cavity checking for any scratches, and then pressed the new seal in. That was a scary operation with the milling machine. Had I made a mistake, I suspect the bike would've been toast. I doubt there's any clutch covers out there to be had.
Nico, Finally got into this job. My old gasket was welded to the cover. Took 3 HOURS of scraping with razor blades, then coarse Scotchbrite pad to clean it up. Was like baked on JB Weld, but only on about 3/4 of the gasket. I'm the original owner. I'm not aware that any local mechanics took the cover off. Hard to believe it left the factorylike that. The check valve looked great. If that's not the problem, what else could be causing the upper oil tank to drain into the sump in a couple hours? Off to work tomorrow to see if I can make a tool to remove the kickstarter oil seal. Doesn't appear dry or torn, but will install a new one anyway. I've decided after all my grief to jut use grease to position the gasket. What do youthink?
Nico, I've been dealing with health problems and finally must get on with this project. I am ordering the parts today if I can find them. A few more questions for you... Why did you use an Athena XT600 oil cover gasket instead of a Yamaha gasket? Did you put your Marston Jointing compound on both sides of the gasket or leave the side facing the engine dry? Finally, how did you learn all this stuff? Thanks for all your help.
That is sad to hear. i hope you get well soon. I used Athena gasket set because they're good quality and there is good availability where i live. That said i'm not married to a specific brand. There are other good brands too. Yamaha in general is more expensive for a full gasket set. I use marston or equivalent on one side as a glue. The reason why i do it like that is that it helps a bit preventing gasket remains sticking to the crankcase the next time i have to take the covers off. So saving time and less chance off gasket remains entering the engine. I have an engineering background ( not in motorcycles ) and i think i'm a curious person in general. I read a lot, i listen a lot to others and i like to try things out and experiment (In an educated way). I learned quite a bit from people who used to race classic bikes over here. A generation of people that could do amazing things with a minimum of tools. it's a bit of everything i guess.
Sounds terrible. My SRX doesn't sound anywhere near that bad. I've been wondering if I need a oil pump in addition to a check valve. But since the oil pump rebuild kit is going for over $500 in the USA, I think I will just go for the check valve and see what happens. At least I know compression is still fairly good.
You have to remove the clutch basket to get to the oil pump. The only way to check your oil pump is to take it apart and to check both the feed and scavenge rotors for heavy scoring. if you see scoring you need to either replace the rotors or replace the entire pump for a 3AJ pump assembly. Rotor scoring is indication of a bad 5th gear btw. Check my other video on 5th gear repair for more info. this video also shows an example of bad pump rotors. You only have to replace the check valve when your engine is wet sumping. I.o.w the oil tank drains in the sump. If not I would leave the check valve where it is
Oh, wat een schoonheid! De SRX600 was mijn eerste motorfiets! Ik vond hem geweldig! Alleen kon ik niet overweg met de kickstarter! Zo jammer dat ik hem weggedaan heb!
Thanks ... brilliant presentation! I have a 1990 SRX-400. I'm keeping an eye on the rubber manifold after seeing the beginning of cracks. So I was glad to see this video because of the symptoms you were concerned with - air leaks. The SRX engine is not just a bored-out 400. But, they are similar enough to extrapolate and compare lot of things. Visually speaking, everything in your video could be taken to be an SRX-400.
Thanks for your comment. Glad you like the video. 400's and 600's are very similar indeed. Many parts can be exchanged. The video also apllies to 400's.
That's a breather hose for the floatbowl to maintain atmosperic pressure inside the carb. It's not connected to anything. just route the hose to the back and downwards.
Thanks for the comment and glad you liked the video. Good luck with your restoration. If you want I can let you in on our SRX600 Facebook group with over 3000 members worldwide. I'm one of the Admins.There is plenty of technical expertise on the group in case you need help with your restoration. Feel free to join...
Good luck with the gearbox repair. I've noticed you are also on our Facebook group. Feel free to ask questions or share you experiences there. plenty of expertise on the group.
Nico, My apologies. I should've introduced myself before asking so many questions.. You seem highly skilled, and your videos are superb. I GREATLY appreciate your advice. I hope you'll be so kind to answer a couple more questions My name is Jim. I live in Upstate NY, USA. I'm the original owner of an '86 SRX600S with 19,500 miles (31.4 km) on the odometer. I'm almost 68, and have health problems. So I only get to ride about 200 miles each summer. I'd like to keep riding a couple more years. There are no mechanics nearby who will work on my bike due to limited parts availability. So I'm on my own. I rode the first time this year a week ago - 30 miles to work and back. No odd noises. 15 minutes after I got home I checked the dipstick. DRY! I always do an oil and filter change right before I put it away for the winter. Did I forget to top off the tank? I put in a quart of the expensive Mobil 1 10W40 cycle oil I always use. Next morning the diostick was dry again. So now I figured the sump was overfilled. Next day I drained the filthiest oil I've ever seen from the sump. Even if I forgot to change it last fall, I only had 200 miles on that oil. How did it get so filthy? Amazingly, the tank was now full of the same filthy oil! How did it get there? I didn't start the bike, or kick the starter. Did the new quart push the old oil up to the tank? I also noticed the filter looked relatively clean. I let the dirty oil drain for an hour, then parked the bike while I searched for, and found your videos. Today I bought 2 quarts of cheap 10W40 oil for a test. I put in in the bike, removed the spark plug and screw above the oil filter for the pressure test you demonstrated. i had to kick the bike about 20 times before oil squirted out of that screw hole. Is the oil pump bad, or did it just take a while for the filter to fill with oil? I think I can replace the check valve, but not sure I can tackle the removal of the clutch and pump. If the pump's going bad, would a higher viscosity oil nurse some more life out of the pump? Thanks for your time.
hi Jim, Sorry for my late response. I do not monitor RU-vid every day. Thanks for the kind words and i'm glad the videos are helpful. Not sure if you are on facebook. I am one of the admins of the international SRX600 group with over 3000 members worlwide. We have a pretty large group of US members and it's perhaps worth to connect. Who knows maybe there is a member close by. I'm from the Netherlands, the other side of the pond. Let me know if you are interested i can let you in. If there are no oil leaks ( which you will notice) and the bike consumes little to no oil while riding, a dry dipstick usually means a failing Check valve. It's not the end of the world, you can ride with it but gauging oil levels becomes problematic and overfilling is a risk indeed. The dirty oil can have multiple reasons. Oil over time reacts with moist or fuel/exhaust gases and creates dirty oil. This could happen if you havent changed oil for a long time. You could flush the crankcase it with substance meant for cleaning crankcases. not sure what brands there are in US. The SRX is a dry sump system. Meaning oil will be pumped from the tank to crankcases and ultimately pumped back into the tank. It's therefore no surprise dirty oil ends up in the tank. Kicking 20 times is about normal before you see some oil pressure. It doesn't sound like you've got a oil pressure problem from what you are telling me. You can also start the engine, usually you will see oil apprearing in seconds, provided there is no airlock in the system. The oilpump is quite robust. The most common failure on teh oilpump is because of defective 5tg gear. 5th gear fragments end up in the oilstream and will ruin the oilpump rotors leading to poor pressure. You will have to remove the clutch before you can get to the oilpump. I have not seen a way to remove the pump with the clutch on. You definitely need a clutch holder to take of the clutchbasket. Don't put force on the studs. these break off real easy. Filter and check teh drained oil for metal particles, if you do see small metal particles it could be an indication 5th is going bad and also the oilpump can go bad. If you do not see anything of that and 5th gear doesn't make a loud noice, Just replaces the Check valve. See also my video on 5th gear replacement. Again let me know if you want to join on the facebook group. more than happy to let you in. good luck !
Thanks Nico for your thorough reply. Haven't seen any metal in the oil. I think I'm going to ride and see how it goes and then change the check valve this winter.. If 5th gear or the pump goes I'll probably sell the bike.
Nico Is it always recommended to replace the seal for the kickstarter? What is the tool you used to get the old one out? Is that a special yamaha tool? If I can't get the tool is there any other way to get it out?
In my personal experience i always regretted the times i didn't replace an oilseal, Soon or later they started to leak and i had to take the engine apart to replace it anyway. Perhaps you can get away with not replacing the kickstarter oilseal. It's a shaft that's not rotating that much. So who knows you're lucky. However Luck is not a tool in my toolbox. Maybe i am overdoing things at the same time my SRX'es are still reliable leakfree companions.
For some reason I can't locate your previous videos. So can I get the clutch cover off without removing the engine from the bike? How do you separate it? My check valve is not working. I had hoped there was a way to change it out without removing covers.
Hi. if you click on my name you will end up on my channel and you should see the other videos. you will have to remove the clutchcover to access the check valve. It's not a big deal though. It's on and off in a breeze. You will have to drain the oil from the bike and you will need a new gasket and a torquewrench to bolt the allen bolts to the correct torque. Replacing the check valve isn't difficult either and a new valve isn't expensive.
@@brunolini A bad check valve can indeed trick you into thinking the oil level is too low and therefore risk overfilling. Always check oil on a warm engine and not on a cold engine. this is the only way to get a reliable reading of the oil level.
@@U2pSandman thanks!! So the best way to check the oil level is to warm the engine well, then stop the engine and wait 5/10 minutes to check. ...right? (with a check valve in good conditions.:)
@@brunolini Yes. You can check oil after you stopped the engine. No need to wait for 5 -10 Minutes. Just ride the bike for 5 minutes or so and then check right away. This will get the oil circulation going and the oil levels in the sump and tank to balance out. Btw we do have a lively and active facebook group for SRX. Lots of expertise there. You can join us if you want to. i'm one of the admins and can let you in.
Superb Video! I am restarting a 1987 SRX. New gaskets have been installed by the previous owner but at just one point it is leaking oil. Not when it stands but when I aply the Kickstarter. It is the left back part of the engine. Do you have an idea what this could be?
Thanks for your comments. The kickstarter is on the right side of the bike. when you spot an oil leak it's most of the time a leaky oilseal. The driveshaft, kickstarter shaft and gear shift shaft all have oilseals. Best to clean the engine as good as possible and then follow the oil trace to see where it is coming from. Another source of leaks can be the neutral switch on the crankcase. ( the thing with the blue wire attached). you can take it out an replace the copper washer/gasket for a new copper washer. HTH
Hey Nico, thanks for a great video! I’m having similar problems with the same carb, but mounted on a XT600E from 1995. I’ve replaced the manifolds with new ones but I’m still getting the RPM surge. Do you have any suggestions for me where to look next? Cheers. /Fred
Thanks Fred. Other possible sources of airleaks can be the the manifold to petcock vacuumhose ( if is a vacuum petcock). The petcock itself could leak air in the manifold ( again if it is a vacuum petcock). The vacuum hose between manifold and petcock can have cracks. The coasting enricher hose from secondary carb to primary carb can have cracks and therefore leak air. A worn throttle slide / throttle body could cause airleaks, although this doesn't seem to happen too much. A sticky choke plunger can leave the internal air passage open to the primary manifold. Also check for any mechanical issues. is there enough slack in the throttle cables ? Inside the primary carb there is a screw that mounts the throttle lever to the throttle shaft. If this one is loose it could cause the throttle slide to stick in the throttle body. All can cause surging problems " hanging throtle". HTH
@@U2pSandman Thank you for the reply Nico! New hoses have been ordered as they look very old. Was also thinking about the pilot circuit; maybe there is an air leak through the pilot screw? Worth to note that this problem surfaced after I took the carb apart to clean it. Thanks again!
@@fredl8888 the pilot screw or a/f mixture screw has a o-ring that could be worn or damaged. So worth checking indeed. On SRX the a/f screw should be 2,5 turns out. I know some XT's have different settings.
Nico Siebelink hey again Nico! Hanging revs problem solved, the screw for the arm operating the throttle valve was loose... anyway, now I’m back to my original problem of the bike running rich at 1/8-1/4 throttle. Waiting for a Keyster repair kit so I can replace jets and tubes. Could putting the needle in the primary carb in position 1 or 2 (it’s currently in position 3/5) solve the rich condition at low speeds? Many thanks again!
@@fredl8888 The thing to keep in mind is that jets and needle do not change themselves. So if the bike is running rich at 1/8-1/4 throttle and ran well before and you didn't change anything on the bike there is likely something else going on. First thing to ask is how did you determine the bike runs too rich and not too lean ? If rich : First thing i would check is the airfilter. A clogged airfliter wil make the bike run richer ( less air / more fuel). 2ndly a choke plunger in stuck open position can cause a rich condition, notorious on SRX with the handlebar operated choke. 3rd : primary / secondary needle wear can cause just off idle "rich spots". Look for wear marks on the needle(s). These rich "spots" can be noticed as hickups, You open throttle, bike bogs down a bit and then picks up revs again. 4th : The fuel level in the floatbowl is too high, This also creates a rich condition. This can be caused by a leaky float needle valve. You can measure the fuel level, it should be about 7mm from the floatbowl mating surfaces down. You can change needle settings but be careful not to compensate for another problem. changing jets and needle settings could quite easily end up in a wild goose chase if it is another problem. hth
Hi again Nico this is second part of message below, after 1 year waiting will put back stator and rotor, but must ceck however to make sure do you know if there is a mark on stator to align with carter once piston is on top dead center ? or stator can go in any position? also took pictures of wiring last year but lost them....hope I will be able to reconnect them properly... Just in case I'd appreciate your help from a srx 600 aficionado Best regards Marco from Slovenia :-) :-) :-)
Hi Marco, The Stator is mounted inside the dynocover with 4 screws. I think it will fit only one way. Not much you do wrong here... The rotor or flywheel goes onto the crankshaft and is aligned with a woodruff key on the crankshaft. I hope this answers your question ?
@@U2pSandman Thank you Nico, yes I remember the woodruff key, so there is only one position to put it in, thank you I removed everything last year cant remember.....but i do remember some bikes had no woodruff key and there was a mark on carter and one in flywel to align....
@@U2pSandman Yes this is pretty straighforward, after I will tighten rotor and close carter side. Only thing is it normal that stator and rotor are immersed in oil during normal operation? When I removed side cover all oil came out... :-)
@@U2pSandman I undersatnd, I sent my stator that was quite burned to germany Kedo.de and they overhauled it for 200 euros, new is 600 euros....when you find it (The original part not chinese)
Hi Nico, can I kindly ask you for some advice ? Last year I removed stator from my used srx600, I notice some coils were just blackish and burnt, had the stator rebuilt in germany. behind stator the camshaft chain tensioner was out of its recessed seat; Previous owner had told me he had piston rings changed, so I guess they removed cylinder assembly and chain tensioner from above, and when they put it back from above it did not engage its recess in carter. So fixed that by removing valve head cover, sliding out tensioner and in again on its seat behind stator.
