Here you'll find videos primarily on woodworking, heavily influenced by traditional methods. I'm not a purist, I work in a way that suits me, but I do have a healthy interest in using hand tools and traditional, time tested techniques.
I tried a lot over the years, I bought a lot of stuff other people recommended. That was often the wrong approach. I´ve learned to go from simple to complex and I recommend that. So I go to the simplest solution that´s proven to work over time. As a beginner you don´t need a set of 5 or six different sharpening stones, you don´t need honing guides and you don´t have to go up to 12.000 or whatever grit. The Norton India is actually a nice starting point, since it has a coarse side for rough work and a side for general sharpening. It also gives nice feedback, so you feel what you´re doing. If you can´t get a sharp edge off that stone, the problem is technique and there´s no point in going to a finer grit or buying other stuff. It´s not only woodworkers, for many people the first thing they think of when encountering a problem is to throw money at it, which rarely works. Another problem is people blindly following advice. For quite some time I flattend my water stones after each use because multiple people on youtube recommended it. It´s so wasteful. Most of the sharpening stone gets ground away instead of being udes to sharpening. Then I allowed myself to learn for myself, stopped flattening, kept sharpening and just waited for when it affects the result. I learned that stones have to be halfway flat.
Trying to rack my brain as to whether I've seen you before years earlier on YT and for personal reasons you had to stop making videos. The person I'm thinking of was building a nice workbench and was also in a family woodworking business. Either way I have subscribes (again?).
My tuppence worth is to check (and adjust as necessary) the cap iron front edge, frog mating surface and the lever cap front edge is dead flat. If they are not, then the blade and hence the cutting edge cutting edge will deform into the shape of the all combined. I have a Record jointer plane which is really nice but the lever cap front clamping edge was concave so really only clamping against the cap iron on the outer edges. This was pushing the edges of the blade down and therefore cutting more on the outside edges. 2 minutes to dress the lever cap fixed the problem. Also I have found that the cheaper Stanley planes with plastic knobs are useless because the adjustment lever pushes into the plastic and deforms it to the extent that the blade is not stable and therefore moves in use if you hit a bit of a snag in the wood or whatever. They don't usually clamp the frog to the plane body very well either in the cheaper versions and I don't think these can be easily made to work well or well enough for me that is.
@faceedgewoodworking You're completely right. I do get stuck on details too though. (Previous member of the "psychotic flatness committee") Maybe it's a character flaw 🤔
I got seriously lucky about a year ago at a car boot with a 14" x 2 1/2 to 3" tapered Charnley forest stone for the princely sum of 50p. The seller said that someone had bought the case but didn't want the 'dirty old stone' in it, so knocked it out and left it behind ! ....... wish I could get that lucky that every week, but a shame I didn't get there half an hour earlier and get the box too ;>) ..... having said that, I am normally there before 5am most Sundays. Yesterday I got a Hindostan [ Indiana, US. natural siltstone ] 8 1/2 x 2 1/4" along with full set of cutters for a combination plane .... all for a couple of quid. That stone is very gummed up with crusty old oil and iron swarf and needs a serious de-greasing before flattening- any suggestions as to the best way to deep clean the black 'gunk' ??
Back in my days as a shoe man for Kinney Shoes we called a similar instrument a "Ritz Stick" they were used to take a fairly accurate reading of shoe size in length and in width at the ball of the foot.
It is to measure the foot length. I also have one of these, inherited from my grandfather. He was a master shoemaker. It works just as accurately as a more modern thing made from plastic.
Poll Parrot, Poll Parrot are the shoes you ought to buy, they make your feet run faster, as fast as I can fly! Foot ruler for sizing shoes. I'm 70 and had them used on my feet. Who remembers Buster Brown shoes and Red Goose shoes had the Egg as a gift for buying their shoe?
Actually a good idea to have a folding caliper. Yeah there will always be some inherent inaccuracy regardless of how it folds but I occasionally could use a caliper longer than 6" but those get really expensive really quickly, and storing them would be a hassle for some twice a year measurement. Although I suppose nowadays this could be easily achieved with a chinesium laser.
It's an interesting idea. During my apprentice years I relied on a tape measure and a white plastic folding rule. I've added cheap digital calipers and an Aigner Distometer for machine work. Now I know this rule is for feet it's actually pretty accurate.
Perhaps it is used to measure the spacing in floor joists or wall studs. Pace the 'clamp' over the previous joist/stud, then slide the next one up to the short drop edge on the other end.
foot sizer can say maybe yes to the experts comments below! So try putting the bottle in between the pointy slim curved part of the two, one end fixed wooden platform and the moveable second part at the smallest part of the triangle, and see if then it is somewhat accurate? Do You understand my words?
@@faceedgewoodworking Disregard what I said :) Watching the video again I realised that there is a wood block at the end of the rule which would do an admirable job of keeping the sliding stop from coming off XD I have handled them many years ago, but wasn't able to afford one at the time. Sooo, my, hopefully, better assessment is that the pin would serve to prevent the rule (when folded up and knocking around in your kit) from being pushed out of alignment and putting strain on the hinges etc. I have wooden folding carpenters rules, and an antique ivory sector (looks like a carpenter's rule, but is actually a scientific calculator) and they all have locating pins in the sides of them so that when folded up the two halves are 'locked' together and protected from accidental twist. In regards use, they would probably be better suited for getting a 'size' reading for off the shelf footwear. For bespoke work, the customer's feet are traced out on paper, and copious measurements are taken around the feet with tape measures etc, and locations of prominent bones and such are marked down. Wooden lasts are then carved to match (or some places will take a close sized last and modify them) and the shoes made around them. Retired now :) Well done, nice find. Cheers from Australia
What a lot of old tosh, it’s not a shoe size measurer it’s a penguin dimensioner for debigulating your penguin or rebigulating your penguin if you take too much off.
It’s a foot ruler, not a foot long ruler. I’m assuming the play in it is for the tightness of the fit. You turn it one way to measure the length of the foot, and then the other to measure the width.
My grandfather was a shoemaker. I never got to know him, because he died quite young in his mid fifties - but I know the remains of his workshop from when I was still a little kid. So obviously he never could have shown me how to use this type of ruler. But I am fairly certain, that this is a special caliper used by shoemakers back in the day. In that shoemaker workshop of my grandfather there was at least one such ruler with which I used to play around as a little kid.
@@faceedgewoodworking I will look for it in the workshop of my late father. Most of the tools he ‚inherited‘ from my grandfather are still there somewhere. Special hammers and knifes and some special tongs and even some little boxes and cans of special nails used for shoes. Maybe it is still there in one of the drawers…
There were similar rulers I seem to recall being used in shoe shops early post war. They were often used to measure children’s feet. In the fifties the X ray machines were installed in many large she shops and the assistant and your parents viewed your feet in the shoe through them. In Norwich, home of Startright , the rulers were simplified with a very large heel support that slid and a tape that was placed over the foot while you stood on the rule.
Glad to see an upload, even if it just a stinky chest ! Hope all is well and looking forward to when you get time to give us more awesome wood working tips and videos. Really enjoy when you talk about woodworking books, ect.
I just bought my first serious fine saw. It's PAX Gent's saw and I'm quite pleased with it. Previously I've use a Bacho bow saw frame, with a Nobex miter saw blade, probably 18TPI or so, which is to fine for my use. I must say that putting tension on a blade adds benefits. It has to be straight spanning to fixed points, and there seems to be less vibrations. For cutting tenons I will continue to reach for my Bacho bow saw, but the little PAX will be great for fine stuff like dovetails in thin stock. Although I probably re-tooth it to 16TPI.
Stop lying to yourself. 95% dont know how to work a chisel. So it doesnt matter. Of the rest 5%, some know what to choose and that they do. Brands and all that doesnt mean anything. Work with the tool does.
