They do come out. You just need to change your o ring grommets when you pull them out. There’s a good chance the o ring will come out when pulling the bolt through it.
As someone who does maintenance on my friends vehicles, I sure do appreciate those DIYers who upload their installation processes. You sir, are a good man!
0w8 is here strictly to satisfy epa / cafe fuel economy regulations . Toyota doesn't make that choice ,,, toyota HAS to abide by those laws here in north america . I wouldn't run anything thinner than 0w20. ideally 5w30 synthetic is what i would run ... epa cafe regulations DO NOT have long term engine life in mind .... especially with the ridiculously long OCI's that toyota is calling for .. I suggest 5w30 changed every 3000 to 5000 miles . your engine will last 500k easily . while burning no oil between changes
Totally agree with you on the EPA mindless decrees, My only question is why would the EPA only required 0w8 in Toyota's smallest engines, which get the best gas mileage to begin with. And why only Toyota, Is the EPA prejudicial. I only went 0w8 so I had some record of it for warrantee purposes. Going 0w16 at 5000. Never 5 weight. FYI on 5w30, GM has gone to 0w20 on their small engines. They found that the variable valve timing solenoids were a big problem, along with timing chain tensioners. I have first hand experience with solenoids getting plugged. Even with faithful 3000 mile oil changes, I went through 3 sets before 70000. Those solenoids need the right oil weight to activate properly. Toyota uses an motorized adjustment but still hydraulic controlled. The right initial weight at start up is huge too, its where most wear occurs. But I still have no solid Idea what to use.
It was the yzzn1 on it when I took it off. I guess they use them both. They are both made by Denso but the yzzn1 is made in a Thailand facility. I might seek a 10009 on my next change.
Yes, both filters are available. I used the YZZN1 filter when I changed it a few weekends ago. I used the Mobil 1 0W-8 oil from Walmart as well. It's not readily on the shelf, but you can have it delivered home in a few days' time. What was the part number of the filter tool you bought? I bought a set of Vevor cap wrenches and they work, but they don't allow you to put the square drive in all the way if you bottom out the cap on the filter. Funny after I did the oil change, the dealership called for the car's "5,000 free service" and I told them that I already changed the oil and filter myself. The woman said, "It's not for that. It's for tire rotation (I don't even have 3,000 miles yet) and fluid top off". That tells me as you stated, that they are pushing the 10k oil change interval. Like you, no dice for me. 5k/6 months and being it's a Toyota, it will last a long time.
There’s a good chance the original oil filter is a made in Japan Denso 90915-10009. You can still buy that from Toyota however the part number that you used is the correct replacement that most dealerships and other shops would use.
Can't remember, simple green or something like that. It was just mud and dirt. If some greasy grimy stuff was present, I might have used engine brite or a degreaser. Thanks for watching.
history will not be kind to the maskers. and im gonna go out on a limb, but the shariah beards are gonna be on the list with the mask, the things you can get people to do list. number 3 is self mutilation.
Its a thumper, they all have that basic sound. I think the RPMs went up quite a bit quicker than a Grom. My current Grom has Two brothers, K&N and a DHM tune for that set up. Sounds good but the rebel sounded mean, more of a CRF 450 type. Don't have that 300 beast any more, but it was fun.
Nice, going to look at a 07 CRF80 this weekend for my boys. Great shape and clean but will need a new piston/rings he states but for $950 I might go for it. Has FMF exhaust too. Great winter project for a top end and to freshen up things to teach my boys about engines.
i bought mine on amazon, looks to be currently unavailable. i see some on Ebay a little more than i paid but isn't everything now. www.ebay.com/itm/172788565716
What a way to spend a Sunday. Loved seeing old timers cruising neighborhoods like they were kids again. I'm going to put together a posse of mini bike hooligans in my area. See if we can get in trouble with the cops every weekend. LOL
Thank you for this. Gave me the confidence to do my own repair for the same issue (my missing chunk was a bit more downward). I ended up using the original JB weld which was much more gooey than than the putty (I wish I used the putty) and I used some tin and some Dubbin boot polish as a release agent to make a small jig to back the area I was patching up. I didn’t end up putting the crankcase cover back on until it had set, but I did also have to grind it down a bit with the Dremel for a perfect fit. Anyway, thanks again sir, you gave me everything I needed!
Really not much to them, should be able to diagnose the issue fairly easy. Take the throttle cable off and see if the linkage moves freely and returns easy, if it does then you have narrowed it down to the cable binding or a throttle tube issue. The stock ones are cheap crap. If the linkage does bind its possibly catching somewhere. With the cable off, you should be able to feel where it is catching. Maybe loosen the big bolt slightly. If it's an issue of poor return, maybe that little Honda GX200 spring isn't enough. It worked well for me. Good luck, let me know if you still can't get it.
@@richmsx125 I know it's not an issue with the Honda spiring it goes back when I pull it with my hand but with the handle throttle it doesn't go back all the way so I know it has something to do with the cable, I'll look into it ,
Doesn't sound like cam chain being loose, I'm decently familiar with that noise. Have you dug into the engine before? Some guy on reddit said his engine noise was from the oil spinner nut coming loose. Is your oil at the correct level? Measured with dipstick unthreaded? Cam timing correct? Correct spark plug?
Thanks for replying, I haven't opened the engine. Guy I bought it from did sex machine clutch plates and cleaned the spinner. The exhaust valve felt spot on so I would guess the cam timing is ok. Oil is right on, spark plug looked a little lean, its new and i believe correct, but I'd have to check it again. I'll pop the cover and check the spinner. Thanks again.
@@richmsx125 Hopefully you figure out the noise without needing to split the case. I recommend digging into the side covers and checking things out. I had my tensioner arm bolt come slightly loose because I didn't loctite it/properly torque. Anything's possible and 100 percent your noise is not normal
@@tonnitropartas Thanks, right side cover gasket should be here tomorrow. will definitely start with the side covers. I looked at it closer and can fell something not right under the cover where the spinners is. I'll start there. Hopefully a loose spinner bolt, i'll clean it while i'm in there too.🤞
It's fixed. The nut that holds the spinner was totally loose, it moved back and forth about a 1/4". Tightened her down seems to be good. New video launched. Thanks again for the responses.
Great video. Are you able to put the links to the handle bars and the risers? I tried looking on Amazon for the same brand you mentioned and could not find them
I found them pretty easy try this link or look up Xitomer offset handle bar raisers on amazon. You may have to copy paste it. www.amazon.com/Xitomer-Motorcycle-Motocross-Handlebar-Kawasaki/dp/B07YQTXYKP/ref=sr_1_7?crid=YJD9LU069V7C&keywords=offset%2Bhandlebar%2Brisers&qid=1655811789&s=automotive&sprefix=offset%2Bhandle%2Bbar%2Braisers%2Cautomotive%2C61&sr=1-7&th=1
At the time of this video I just cut the throttle stop off and put a torque converter on. Later I put a stage one on, those results were underwhelming, but improved low end. Came out overall well for a minibike with no governor adjustment or removal.
