I enjoy helping, teaching others and being an optional resource. Not an expert by any means but do know a "little bit" about a variety of subjects. Enjoy sharing what I have learned over the years. This channel will be informative with how - to's, product reviews / comparisons, tip and tricks.. Plan to have a wide subject matter in hopes of everyone being able to find something of interest to them on my channel.
I was always a Chevy big engine guy 5.3 or 6.0 but after trying a 2.7 2017 f150 I decided to go with the 2.7 because of the mpg and the amount of power it has for a small engine, impressive how a small engine can handle with 2 turbos. I have towed up to 8000lbs and had no transmission or engine problems
Ok, so here's my take on this debate. I had a 04 Ford F150 with the 5.4 V8, it had a noisy valve train from day one. I was using Mobil1 and changed to Amsoil just see if there was a difference and there was, no more noise, just the clicking of the injectors and nothing else after about a month of driving. I also have a '12 Jeep Grand Cherokee with the 5.7 Hemi that is notorious for the "Hemi tick" problem, at 120k miles on Amsoil, mine is as quiet as a church mouse. Finally I have a '01 Toyota Camry V6 that I inherited from my Dad when he passed in '13. He always had it serviced at Toyota using Toyota brand oil. When I first got the car the valve covers were leaking so I did the gaskets and the top of the heads and valve covers were caramel colored with a small amount of sludge in the corners by the oil return passages. I switched it to Amsoil at that time and after about a year and a half (3 oil changes later) I got to do the job again due to crappy aftermarket gaskets. When I took the valve covers off again the engine was spotless with no varnish at all. I believe in Amsoil's claims, no doubt whatsoever. I change my oil at 6k miles or 6 months whichever comes first, I know that this is overkill to a lot of people but I keep my cars (except the Ford) for at least 10 years and believe in using high quality oil and filters to keep them running for the long haul.
Mobile one been my go to since 1995. I was a amsoil dealer one time in my life I couldn’t make no money on it. Back to mobile one not paying twice the money for nothing. Use to run Amsoil in my 2 stroke bikes and snowmobiles great oil very clean protects very well. But now its so much money im going to try mystic oil for almost half the cost per gallon. My father been running mystic in is snowmobiles and they run great. I have a old 2001 honda CR 125 dirt bike the amsoil has been amazing still on original crank piston lasts forever with Amsoil cylinder still has factory cross hatch so definitely great oil. Be fun to see how Mystic will be im hoping aa good but idk.
I'm sure you used the product to remove the other oil stains. I would have liked to see that because sometimes adding a product on top of another product that was previously tried might yield different results. So did the other stains come out with the product of choice?
I love the real world testing! As you saw from your test, wind speed and a number of other factors come into play too. Also, FYI, our F150s sadly don't have very accurate readings for these averages (they tend to over-estimate a bit). If you measure how much you're filling up and mileage driven, you'll get the true number. You can then modify the computer's readout to give you a more accurate average. As another FYI, aerodynamically speaking, an open truck bed with the tailgate closed is gonna have the worst aerodynamics. Air (and gas) move like a fluid. As the air comes over the edge of the cab, it falls into the truck bed, causing air turbulence. It then hits the tailgate and rolls back like a wave. That wave then hits the cab, and the turbulent air that was just coming behind it, creating even more turbulence. The air can't easily flow out the bed due to the tailgate so it has to bounce up and cause turbulence before eventually spilling out over the tailgate, causing more turbulence again behind the truck. It basically creates this huge pocket of air pressure that pulls back on the car. If you drop the tailgate, there is still turbulence, but it allows the air to flow out of the bed easier, dramatically reducing this effect. (If you want, you can actually test and see this yourself. tape small bits of string evenly over the whole truck bed, and then on the tonneau, take it on a drive and record the strings, then do it again with a different configuration. you'll see how the strings are tossed around more or less with the tailgate closed vs open, and tonneau on vs off) Of course the air sharply falling over the cab and into the bed (or tonneau) is still not great for aerodynamics. The sharp drop-off breaks the laminar flow (basically all the air moving together in unison) and so creates drag. The best way to keep laminar flow is to have a very gentle slope, like a teardrop. If you had a truck topper that was shaped like a teardrop, that would reduce the coefficient of drag the most and have the best impact on fuel economy. But you can't store much gear in a sloped-off rear end, so we're always gonna have some bad turbulence associated with a truck. It also has a bigger effect the faster you go, due to wind resistance increasing. And of course you'll see the results clearer over a longer time scale, like 1000 miles. As you've seen, the effect is pretty minimal for short distances. So you probably won't notice it at the gas pump, unless you're speeding down the highway or carrying a heavy load. The absolute best way to increase fuel economy is slowing down. Up to 55mph, aerodynamics don't even affect cars really. After that it increasingly gets worse the faster the vehicle goes, due to increasing wind resistance. But aerodynamics is just one part of fuel economy; typically the engine is working harder to resist the air, and thus injecting more fuel for the engine, so you consume more fuel. And staying at a consistent pace will keep the engine using less fuel; if you're going over hills a lot, you aren't gonna see 24mpg. (If you draft behind a big-rig, you can get a big mpg boost from the reduced wind resistance, but i'm not sure it's worth the price of getting too close!)
I change mine 3K miles with Mobil 1. I don't have any issues. I just wait for walmart to put them on sale, Grab one box and life is good. It not the quality, it's how frequent you do it.
The quality allegedly affects the interval that is safe. But so does your driving style and probably environment. That interval affects the cost per mile as much as the cost per quart does. If the "guaranteed" safe interval could be a known legit number, Amsoil would probably be the least cost per mile. Not counting the time spent changing it. I just don't know how to validate it or who has if it has been.
Looking at the test results, the Amsoil had a TBN of 4.9 and the Mobil 1 had a TBN of 3.7. That is an indication of the quality and quantity of the additive package used in each oil. When I look at the test results of the oil I used after 5K, 7.5K and 10K changes, I've always found the Amsoil numbers were still good enough to continue using the oil even longer. That also being stated by the testing lab. Good video. Thanks.
@whatyaknowjoe67 no need for amsoil gore me either I change oil often on my coyote short trips is terrible 10k on amsoil would be just stupid in a ford unless all hwy miles
I use Kirkland synthetic from Costco. I’m no genius for sure but any actual mechanic I talk to that does engine tear downs all day the same thing. Clean oil is the best oil, regardless of brand. It’s worked for me all of these in vehicles well over 250k.
Absolutely not a Mobil 1 fan. Pennzoil, Valvoline & Havoline synthetics are worlds better according to my oil reports. As far as Amsoil, sure it’s a great oil but I’d never pay that kind of money for it.
This is just my experience I’m not saying which oil to pick I have a 2018 Mustang with the 5.0 and it has been running Amsoil after a 1000 miles was put on the car the car now has 50,000 miles it runs smooth but the biggest difference i noticed was I have friends that have 5.0 mustang from 2013 all the way to 2023 and some run mobile 1 some Motorcraft oil or penzoil my mustang is the only one that doesn’t have what’s known as the coyote tick I don’t know if I just got lucky with the car or maybe Amsoil is just better but This is just my experience
Probably just your experience! I have a boosted 2019 5.0 Mustang with 88,000 miles and has had Mobil 1 since 5,000 miles no tick! I’ve also run it in every boosted and NA Bracket race cars over the years and Mobil 1 has always performed as expected! But I do believe any good Synthetic oil is the way to go!
Mobile One ESP X2 in our 3.0 Duramax. Great oil, inexpensive and has Dexos D certification from GM. Amsoil markets an oil that meets DexosD spec but is actually NOT licensed by GM as a DexosD oil so they could give you warranty hassles if they wanted to. Makes mobile one EXP X2 the clear winner for the 3.0 duramax due to wide availability at Walmart, low cost $28 for a 5qt jug, and it is actually certified by GM so no warranty concerns.
@Polcats1 I have a 2019 2.7L STX and it is dead at 80k miles with 8 percent loss on cylinder 6 and now I have expensive head replacement. Trying to force 300 horsepower with turbos on a small aluminum engine is insane. This 2.7 engine sucks. This is why 2024 is getting compacted graphite iron instead.
Only the Amsoil Signature Series is 100% synthetic. The rest of the Amsoil motor oils are Class 3 oil. Nothing wrong with the class 3 oils. Mobil 1, Quaker State, and Castrol are Class 3 and they say they'll go 20,000 miles. The PAO in Amsoil Signature is best especially in the very northern states and up into Canada because it flows faster. If your in the mid states to the south class 3 oils will be more than good enough to start up easily in the cold. If you're in Missouri to Virginia on South cold flow isn't as important because it's not that cold no matter what people may think living there. Mobil 1 is the best of the class 3 oils for cold weather start ups going down to -30F in my area. I use Mobil 1 in all the Toyotas and my wife's Lexus. In my 2014 5.3 Silverado I've been using Amsoil Signature 0W-20. Deactivate the V4 thing with the plug in deal so it's V8 all the time .
@@whatyaknowjoe67it's under the dash area in my truck. I plug it in and it's stays in V8 all the time. No V-4 to V-8 stuff for me. Had it's plugin for many years.
Standard filter for all Ford 2.7l and many other engines for quite a while. Much easier, cleaner to change. Cap seals one end, other side sealed inside.
Dyno and seat of the pants test show AMSOIL is majorly superior. Gale Banks said Mobil 1 left cracks all over his parts where amsoil had none. But w/ Mobile or Valvoline racing they are not as smooth in my Ford 390.
@@whatyaknowjoe67if you compare mobile one to signature series you should compare it to mobile extended performance or there higher end mobile not the lowest one..
The aluminum was going up slowly every oil change by the chart, It was more then likely reaching the next level (5) when the Amsoil was used, Since it was last. This and you are a joke to act like this video shows anything but Ignorance. If you would of ran the Mobile 1 after the Amsoil the Mobile 1 would of had 5 for aluminum and the Amsoil 4 The chart shows the Aluminum gong up every oil change, Anything for a RU-vid attention right!
We are talking PPM (that's parts per million) ...the (new) Diagnostix reports shows 3 for aluminum for both oil samples and actually higher iron 7 vs 6 for the Amsoil. All within margin of error. Fact is both oils are performing great at 6K miles. I'm not interested in pushing out the interval. And I'm not ignorant enough to pay almost double the price for the same performance in MY situation. This works for me...no need to get personal.
I have been using Mobile one synthetic motor oil since 1994. Currently at Walmart you can buy a 5 gallon jug of mobile one synthetic oil for less than $30. All our cars, 2016 Chevy volt 2020 Toyota Highlander hybrid and our 2022 RAV4 prime plug-in hybrid Have Mobil one
Any good Synthetic oil changed every 5k miles with the filter will exceed your engine's requirements. Along with no sludge, and minimal wear. No MLM Amsoil needed! 3rd generation mechanic and engine builder.
I agree. If your Canadian, in Montana, North Dakota, Minnesota, Wisconsin, going to Maine the Amsoil Signature is great for the brutal cold. If you're in the middle of some Lake far from help the truck has to start. that's why I use the Signature Series in my truck. I'm lucky I got a cousin That's a dealer so I get it at the best price.
Wrong you drive short trips cold temps with synthetic oil you will get build-up in 5k. Vct system runs off oil pressure some engines will get oil dilution from direct injection
At these lower intervals most of the times there isn't much difference the oil test will tell you. Once you go closer to a year and closer to 10k miles you will really see the difference. Also the difference in detergents and how clean the engine is something else that is different.
@@whatyaknowjoe67 Glad you did oil test instead of just speaking about it. I can't speak for everyone but I uploaded a video sample I took of a 17k mile oil sample in about 9 months in a Hyundai 2L gdi engine with positive results.
@@geshtal2056 Because they won’t pay for a certification they are bad ? They also won’t pay Ford or GM “like Mobil does” to be on their list. Amsoil doesn’t need to do that. They are the best and they know it and people that really know engines know it. When you are at the top you don’t need to look down. They are the ONLY oil that is 100 percent synthetic. You get what you pay for.
@@armedprophet3321 but if amsoil is that good and they're the best as people say then paying for a certification should be a no brainer to get licensed. Also, doesn't it bother anybody that no auto manufacturer recommends amsoil for their vehicles, not a single one? GM has the most stringent requirements yet almost everyone has a Dexos certified oil and make far less money. You know why amsoil isn't Dexos certified? It's not because they won't pay, it's because of the excessive amounts of zinc and phosphorus they use. Zinc and phosphorus (while good for reducing friction) will destroy catalysts prematurely. Now before someone says yes but it's used in race cars, race car manufacturers recommend them. Race cars are different because their engines only have to last a few seconds to a few hours and they don't have catalysts. Even on Amsoils own website they show their testing data and they put it up against 2 other oils? Why only 2?, why not all your competitors. You know why? Others were much better. Pennzoil, Quakerstate and Castrol all have much better cold flow performance and this can easily be fact checked by going to the manufacturers website and looking at their PDS.
@@geshtal2056 Ummm check their diesel oils and you won’t find that at any levels different then the “certified “. Do you have my idea how much it costs to get “certified “ by an auto manufacturer and listed as an “approved oil” by them ? Also the oil IS approved to be used in automotive applications and covered by the Magnuson-Moss act in which a auto manufacturer cannot deny any liability or claim due to the customer performing their own service using any accepted and approved engine oil or other fluids ie generic brake fluid of the correct dot rating in their vehicle. So it is approved to be used in vehicles. It cost Mobil millions of dollars a year to remain on GM’s preferred list. Amsoil is just not going to pay that because they don’t have to, so why not ? Because they know what they have and they won’t release all the proprietary ingredients and amounts thereof or the manufacturing process that it takes to produce it. Would you pay all that money and just give all your information to a giant company just to get their stamp of approval ? I wouldn’t. If you look at the list of “approved” oils you won’t find any truly high performance oil companies on it, and the Mobile 1 you buy at the store is not the same Mobile 1 sold to customers in high performance applications. Look, I know it’s expensive but it is worth it if you keep your vehicle over 10 years like I do. I did tons of research before I chose an oil, I looked at Amsoil, Schaffers, Hotshot, Mobil, Rotella and more. I called the companies asked questions that pertained to my driving style and needs…that is why I am not running a PAO type oil in my diesel. I know diesel oil wars can be volatile among people that are brand loyal but brand loyalty won’t help your engine. But again I am talking about me and my 6.7 high output diesel. I ran Penzoil platinum ultra in my wife’s jeep (🤮 I hate jeeps) for 9 years and it preformed well. I only change a brand of oil once at the first 5k miles and stick with it thru the life of my ownership because I feel that the different additives and detergent packages in them may not be really compatible with each other and wear on seals and gaskets over time given their combination. Yes I am very OCD about my vehicles but it has worked out for me.
Amzoil is just a cult used by distributors. They scare you into buying their product telling you. It's better mobile one is a very good oil. Based on cost and quality of product. It's what I use in my own vehicles. Amzoil is basically the same thing, so it's just a waste of money.
The reason Amsoil is more expensive and in my opinion better….at least in my 6.7 high output Powerstroke diesel is because Amsoil is the ONLY oil that is 100 percent synthetic. Mobil one is NOT, by law if a an oil has only 25 percent synthetic oil in it then it can be called “full synthetic “ but if you note only Amsoil is the one that says “100 percent synthetic “. The conventional oil in your Mobil one leads to more deposits and has a much lower vapor point than Amsoil and remember this……your turbo gets hot and cooks that oil and it sticks to the turbo bearings and journals. It’s not just about the engine anymore but also the turbo.
@@whatyaknowjoe67 They were already done in a way with a hot plate and Pyrex container with all types of oil. My attention was focused on the Amsoil diesel 10w30 diesel signature series vs other diesel oils because I own a diesel. I don’t know if diesel oil is different from gas engine oil but Amsoil won. It really comes down to engine deposits, burn off and fuel dilution for a diesel, but also turbo gassers do not need oil deposits on those bearings and they get HOT because they are spinning hundreds of thousands times a minute ! Yea it was a shocker for me when I found that out. YIKES !
I knew Amsoil wasn't any better than the others....only difference is more TBN so you can go longer on changes only advantage......If your doing 5000-7000 miles oil changes like any normal person there is practically zero difference.....wear metals proved that
Your interval is as much a factor as price per quantity for cost per mile. See if you can figure the optimal interval for each and see which costs less then. I used to drive a Ford Focus and went way beyond extended interval, but feathered it as much as I could. The lubed parts still looked new nearing 300k miles on IDK what oil the previous owner used, but Pennzoil Platinum when I added some. So, maybe most people are changing it far more often than needed. I think I had put > 50k miles on it before my first visit to a lube shop with it. Driving was a mix of country and city.
My 07 Honda pilot is currently at 160k + miles, runs smooth. I use Amsoil signature series & High mileage every 8000 miles. Also using Amsoil signature for the transmission and transfer case. 8:47 Years ago I stopped using Mobile 1 because my Honda pilot was burning about 1 quart of oil every 4000 miles. No more oil burning issues with amsoil every 8000 miles. I also had good experience with Castrol edge and Pennzoil ultra platinum. But in my case Amsoil has been the best for my 2007 3.5 V6 Honda pilot.
Great video! Truly objective! Showed all brands reduced wear well for approx. 6,000 miles. No point in extending changes further because modern engines need to stay clean inside to avoid serious problems like deposit frozen piston oil control rings and deposit clogged VVti oil flow control valve filter screens.
Paying extra for??? Exactly nothing. There has Never been a conclusive test proving less wear on engine components using Amsoil!! When you understand the purpose of oil on internal engine components then you will understand why Amsoil has no added benefits.
