I enjoy helping, teaching others and being an optional resource. Not an expert by any means but do know a "little bit" about a variety of subjects. Enjoy sharing what I have learned over the years. This channel will be informative with how - to's, product reviews / comparisons, tip and tricks.. Plan to have a wide subject matter in hopes of everyone being able to find something of interest to them on my channel.
I have a new 2023 Gravely ZT HD 60. I absolutely LOVE it. I bought a Trac Seat Suspension Kit and a Heavy Duty Canister Air Filter Kit for it. Both are well worth the money and must haves. The suspension seat will help with back pain and the canister air filter will save the engine in the long run. I highly recommend both!! I also bought a Gravely rubber floor mat to help with feet vibration, plus it makes the machine look better. The only thing I wish the ZT HD had is dual fuel tanks. If I had to do it again, I probably would have went with the Pro Turn 160. Regardless though, Gravely all the way!
Thanks for the comment…if I were cutting commercially it would be nice to have dual tanks…but do the homeowner it works…I like the benefit of the lower and central location…has to help with stability
I just bought a 2020 Ford Gold Star used F150 with the 2.7 L V6 with only 19000 miles... My old truck was the 2016 F150 3.5 L V6 Never had any trouble out still running good with 220000 miles... Hope this new 2.7 litter is as good as the 3.5L....
any idea what size and type of screw is used to secure the burner tubes? The original screws on my Weber spirit E310 were so corroded I tossed them. Now I need to secure the new replacement burners but need help with screw type/size.
No, sorry I don’t. I would just grab a few different sizes from the hardware store that look close. Stainless probably to keep from rusting. Maybe even a self driving screw…doesn’t really matter if you mess up the threads…probably won’t change them again. My box is rusting pretty good…so I’m done making any more repairs. Next will be a whole new unit
When I was 12, my Dad taught me how to change the oil on both of the family's cars, and made me responsible for tracking the mileage, & the oil changes. He bought everything I needed, and stayed close by in case I needed help. He was also tracking the mileage to make sure I kept up with the intervals. I'll always be grateful to him for giving me that responsibility to teach me a valuable lesson. I daily drive an '02 camry(2AZ-FE engine) which I bought used in late 2020. Knowing that the previous owners had neglected the car, I changed the oil, filter, & ATF as soon as I got the car home after the sale. I took care of all the other things it needed within a week after buying the car, and it got most of it's original power back(roughly 90%). Even though I was running a full synthetic, I still change the oil every 3-k4k mi. religiously. From the very beginning, I've ran the high mileage formulation of the Pennzoil Platinum synthetic(pure plus technology) & WIX XP filter. Out of curiosity, I decided to give the valvetrain a closer inspection. The cams were spotless, and showed extremely light wear. That base oil converted from natural gas that pennzoil uses in their platinum line of synthetics is NO JOKE! And the detergent package in the high mileage synthetic has been SO GOOD! It has kept my old camry running like new. Even after 9months as a full time courier vehicle handling 80-100+mi. of city driving, & stop & go traffic everyday, Just out of curiosity, I ran the dynamic engine restoration system by BG through the camry's internals just a few months ago(3/24), and I was very pleased to see that how clean the engine flushing chemicals were when I drained them. Both flushing chemicals went in clear, and came out only a light honey color. Change intervals matter. even if you decide to run cheap oil, as long as you follow the right change interval. Everyone that I've given a ride to in the camry are surprised how well it performs for the amount of mileage it's accumulated(now at 240k mi.). TBH, I really enjoyed bringing that old grandpa cruiser back to life, and even performing the oil changes on it(b/c it's SO EASY) And feeling the restoration on it's original performance firsthand.
Very interesting. It is not just about the oil but the oil filter. A few parts per million difference is not that significant. In my opinion, they are all good oils.
Well, lab test only prove the facts their after. Driving in the real world is entirely different how? Well stop and go traffic in the city, long distance highway travel desert hot areas cold or freezing zones so there's still a lot of room for other comments here. I remember where there was a time when the word " turbo" was used we would think of short or long distance racing, now even grandmas SUV has one and she knows how to use it. 🤔🏁🏳️🏁🏳️🏁🏳️
Lots of variables of course. If I had a fleet of 100 vehicles a better pattern could be seen. Did the best I could with what I have. Bottom line in my opinion is any oil these days are good…important thing is to change it on a regular schedule
Remember we are talking parts per million on the report. Any of the three will do just fine. Thanks for watching…be sure to subscribe for more tests coming
What about the chemicals in each cleaner? I would not use any of them because of the fragrances and chemicals that can cause health issues. You left that important part out for your study.
@@whatyaknowjoe67 Yes here are some recommendations. Melaleuca laundry liquid unscented laundry detergent Nellie's Laundry Soda Norwex Bobby Parrish Laundry Detergent Short
I bought a Gravely ZT HD 60 4 weeks ago, I love it. I also ordered a Trac Seat from "Trac Seat Company" and installed it myself ($250 worth every penny). Awesome ride now, with the trac seat suspension Plus the Factory rubber isolaters. NOTE: the Xfactor III deck is a 7 Gauge steel construction (Gravely Websight stats), thickest deck made (ferris makes them 7 gauge as well). Also the Xfactor III deck has a slopped front plate, this allows the grass time to stand up straight before the blades cut it. I blow out the air cleaner area after each use, heard that keeping the air cleaner clean on these Kawasaki engines prevents premature problems. I also blow the hydro gear fans off to keep them clean as well, easy to get to them with the seat flipped forward. Enjoy your new mower, I certainly am mine!! I mow 4 acres in 1.5 hours now, used to take 4 hours with my cub cadet.
The deck changed to 7 gauge for the HD/Pro Turn Z/ZX starting in 2024 and newer. 2023 and older used 10 gauge--in his video you can see it marked Xfactor III with 10 gauge written on it. Xfactor III comes in 11 (XL's), 10 and now 7. A lot of manufacturers use 7 gauge including the higher model Pro-Turns, Bad Boys, Exmarks, John Deere, Spartan, etc.....
We had a major motor oil manufacturer sponsor our IndyCar team way back in the 80's. We were also running their oil in our engines... and losing those engines regularly. Upon teardown, it was determined that the oil was the cause. So we had to tell our multimillion-dollar sponsor that their oil was crap. Well, they took it quite well actually. Maybe they already knew. Anyway, we devised a solution. They would ship us cases of their branded, but empty oil bottles and we would fill those empty bottles up with off-the-shelf Mobil 1 synthetic. That way, the fans who were milling about in the paddocks would see us using what they thought was our sponsors' oil in our million-dollar engines but in fact, we were not. After we made the switch, we had no more oil-related failures. That was an expensive lesson that luckily, I didn't have to pay for. So to this day, I've only used Mobil 1 in all my vehicles
@@whatyaknowjoe67 look up 540RAT oil testing, he did some extensive testing of oils and the Mobile 1 0w40 European blend came in second over a bunch of oils he tested. 👍
The test protocols were not covered. The proper way to do these is to flush the engine between tests for several operational hours using the same oil brand/type for each flush. Not flushing will negatively impact the first oil "tested". Doing back to back tests without flushing will bias each test by the residual effects of the previous oil used. Any issues with the emissions control system will affect tests unpredictably.
Agree…I did make sure to leave each oil drain for at least 20 min. Whatever residual I would expect to be minimal. But yes I’m sure there are some cavities in the engine where there might be some oil remaining. I did rotate which oil I started with between vehicles. Based on the results there was minimal PPM difference. Maybe extended run time would have shown more separation between the brands…but final conclusion…change your oil at 5k miles and probably generally speaking any oil will suffice.
Extended oil drains are a scam . It's a machine, it needs clean oil. 3-5K mile intervals will slow intake pcv contamination, and your oil return rings will have a fighting chance to live as long as you want them to. Secondly, isn't it safe to have a car serviced and safety inspected more often? A lot can happen to an undercarriage in 10K miles. Thanks for doing this experiment.
Been changing oil every 3,000 miles since 1985 using about every brand on the shelf, haven't had one single engine failure to date, in over a dozen different kinds of motors.Two of these had carburetors, no problems.
I just did my first oil change at 37k. The dealer did the prior service. I noticed less timing chain rattle with the Valvoline. Gas mileage may have decreased, not sure yet.
@@whatyaknowjoe67 Maybe cost? Here in Australia Shell (Pennzoil equivalent) is more expensive, Or perhaps Valvoline has a slightly larger range of types of 5W30 full synthetic like: - Synpower - Synpower FE - Synpower MST C3 ($81.99 AUD full retail) - Synpower XL-III C3 From memory they used to have even more.... Whereas in Australia with Shell: - Helix Ultra ECT C3 ($96 AUD full retail) - HX8 - Helix Ultra X (A3/B4 SN plus) I personally use Shell Helix Ultra, But I do try other brands from time to time 🤷♂ (except Amsoil since it's harder to obtain, and ludicrously expensive to the point that I could ALMOST do 2 oil changes for the same OIL COST as a single Amsoil oil change)
I add hammer-locks for the safety chains, they make connecting a whole lot nicer, they stay there, cannot be easily stolen, are much safer than caribeaners and the like, and work.
Irv Gordan’s Volvo went over 3,000,000 miles using Castrol GTX. I know guys that went well over 300,000 miles in there vehicles with only conventional oil. Best oil is clean oil. Change your oil when you can’t see the oil level lines through the oil. Over fifty five years of doing it this way and never ever had an engine problem. But what do I know. 😁
I thought you wanted to freshen your driveway so you don't track mud? As you back bladed these wasn't enough stone and there are spots without it. I like the 6a limestone, my driveway was created using it, lasted 5 or 6 years before fines were on top. Tried 6a round stone, it worked bad so I plan to dig it out and refresh with 6a limestone. To me key is space between stone allows tire or foot to go over without contacting fines. Also sharp corners allow stone to lock-in, round stone never does until it pushes into dirt, fines rising to the top.
Wanted to fill the low spot where water puddles accumulate. Problem with the loose stone is that it goes everywhere…especially when trying to plow snow. Trying to find that right balance of stone and fines. If I hit the lotto I’ll pave it and solve all my problems…lol.
@whatyaknowjoe67 Crushed concrete locks in quickly but I know how tough it is to plow gravel. It only works with "shoes " on the bottom of plow or waiting for it to freeze solid.
great video i'm debating if keep putting oem oil in my rav 4 or gp with one of these . My old camry over 350k used cheapest oil conventional 3k no issue with engine . New rav been using oem wanna make a switch leaning towards valv or penz but i hear toyota uses mobil 1 with their added potion
I traded in a 4runner on an f150 because i needed to haul a few thousand lbs more comfortably. I've had the truck 3 months and am pissed. Its a 19 with the 5.0, in 3 months with only 20k miles on the truck, I've had ABS issues that cause the truck to go into service mode or what ever, dealership wont do dick about it. Then for the last month I've had the vct rattle at low rpms while cold. Super embarrassing to putt around a parkinglot, or pull out of the neighborhood. That right there alone has soured me on this truck, it goes in tomorrow to have the VCT rattle assessed, tho they'll probably fight me on it. Over the phone they're already denying that I know what I'm talking about, claiming its normal and probably just a heat shield that rattles, when i can literally put my hand over the vct solinoid and feel the rattle. F Ford, Henry and the boys can eat a big one. Piss poor american quality as usual. Should've stuck with Toyota and got a Tundra instead.
Isn’t it still under the power train warranty? Mine has been flawless…bought new and now has 122k miles. Sorry to hear the problems that you are having. I would look for a new dealer as well.
