On the "OutJeeping LLC" channel, you will find Instructional How-To videos related to four wheel drive vehicles and off-road adventures. I do my best to help those who strive to learn more and have the internet at their fingertips. So sit back and pay attention, and you may just learn something new.
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I also bought their upgraded headlight kit for my 97 ZJ, MUCH BRIGHTER HEADLIGHTS. On my 99 I made my own cables out of HEAVY WELDING WIRE & ALSO PUT RELAYS & HEAVIER WIRE FOR MY HEADLIGHTS. HUGE DIFFERENCE BUT TOOK MUCH MORE TIME. THESE KITS ARE WORTH EVERY PENNY, T.Y.
I left the original cables in place, Ran the upgraded cables right along side them. Everything fit on the studs & terminals. GREAT FREAKIN CABLES, THEY ARE ALSO MARKED WHERE EACH END GOES, VERY NICE.
I bought a XJ a few months back. When I bought it all I knew how to do is change a flat and change my oil. Finding your page has been the biggest help! It is hard learning all this stuff by myself so your videos have saved me. I am learning so much! I was able to change my ball joints out last night all by myself with the help of your video. I feel so accomplished. Thank you, thank you, thank you!!!
I have a 2015 Grand Cherokee limited. Replaced the Drivers side High and Low Beams. It was a real pain in the ass but way easier then the passenger side is turning out to be. The high beam was a piece of cake. I have access to the low beam but can't get the bulb to turn to remove. Top bottom no good it's like someone jammed it in there and put the cap back on and said the hell with it . Iv tried prying on it twisting it but the bulb won't budge. Bad angle and no room. I moved the ecm still can't get to the bulb. I'm guessing the bumper needs to come off now and remove the whole light unit. My hands look like they went through a meat grinder. Any Ideas
I'm going to have to replace the front axle seals in my '88 XJ and your video gave me exactly what I needed - very clear, well-organized and detailed. Thanks!!!
I appreciate guys like this who don't take shortcuts and always pay attention to detail. After a house, a car is the next most expensive thing you might buy, so having a guy you can trust like this guy is awesome
So I love your videos but I’m having gauge issues with my 76 j10. The guy I bought it from put a new painless wiring harness on it but didn’t finish the job. Bought a new circuit board and that didn’t change anything. Then was told to put a jumper wire across the two pins above temp gauge and everything worked until the temp gauge maxed out too hot and started smoking. I’ve made sure none of the gauge studs are touching the metal plate and have tried some voltage regulator configurations but still no luck. Any ideas?
YOU ABSOLUTELY NEED TO REPLACE SLEEVE its what positions everything correxctly its important for caster bet your Jeep wonders , especially on bumpy roads this isnt important wright torque lower nut to 70-90 ft lbs Torque adjusting sleeve to 40 ft lbs Torque upper nut to 100 ft lbs Test knuckle turn. Effort not to exceed 26 lbs
I have a 2000 XJ. I removed the cam and cam bearings without removing the head, intake or the exhaust. I did have to remove the radiator and front clip. There is a very simple way to do it, especially if the oil pan is also removed.
Behind the timing chain cover there is a large threaded plug. That goes the full length to the block. You can remove the valve cover, rocker, arms, push rods, and use a long handled magnet to pull each lifter up starting at the front once the lifter is high enough you can push in a dowel rod and lower the lifter back on the Dow. Once you do it for all the lifters, you can then pull the cam out. I replaced my cam bearings, including the rear, one without removing the head, intake, or exhaust manifold. If you have an email I can send you some pictures of how I did it.
@gibsonhomestead6793 Interesting, I did notice that plug while in there. Since you were doing that and not replacing the cam or lifters that seemed to work perfect. It is always good to hear of new ways for certain jobs. I got my email in the about page if you are interested. Thanks for sharing
@@victorortega2718 Should be fine to do so. The rear shocks don't provide any support for lifting the vehicle. They just dampen the suspension over bumps.
in order to get my oil pan out on a completely stock xj I had to take off both shocks, the steering damper entirely(which I had to drill out as well), then take off the passenger side upper control arm bolt(only the 1 by the axle). this still wasn't enough for me to get it all out, so I used 2 bottle jacks and placed them near where the shocks would go and forced the axle down an inch or so more. then the pan just fell out. getting the oil pan in and out was easy with this, especially with bungee cords to hold back the trans lines in the front.
I’m working on this now. Will be installing on a 99 with factory fogs, a 96 with factory fogs, and a 95 YJ where I intend ti recreate factory fogs. So will be interesting. Need to buy the wire connectors to hook up that pigtail. Only question is whether it’s needed on the 96. Based on wiring diagram (I’ve exhaustively researched the fogs), I think it will be necessary.
Just found your channel and subscribed. Great content and I’ve learned a lot. Thank you 🙏! After watching quite a few of your videos I am shocked at how much rust that you have to deal with on an ongoing basis. I live in the mountains of Colorado and have hardly any issues with rust. I’m thankful for that and appreciate the ease of working on my own zj. Thanks again for the excellent content.
You didn't walk the head bolts out half turn at a time? Every head I've ever pulled, I go through and give each bolt a half of a turn in increments so that they all come out at the same rate. I was taught that taking each bolt out completely while leaving the others fully tight can/will cause axial stress on the head and might crack it.
Hi. This was a great masterclass video. Is there a video where we can see how to change wheels in case they failed while traveling? Seems like a simple question, but in a Jeep it's important to know where to attach the jack. Also what jack is best to use. Thanks
Nice video. I love the detail! Personally, I don't wrap, zip and clip until I have tested that my repair work was successful by starting and driving the vehicle for a couple of hours. You are much more confident in your work than I am in mine! :D
Hey man great video very thorough thanks. Can I ask why you did not change the turn signal bulb as well while doing this video? I want to do this conversion of all 3 lights. Any advise on what turn signal to get and if will need the harness. Thanks J
