You need to upgrade the rear brakes to the 43mm Taurus calipers in order to keep the same 70/30 balance between front and rear. You're likely close to 90/10 with just the front done and that will cause lock up to occur.
Our diff support bushings are a combination of steel and Delrin, They are a steel insert in a Delrin outer body and they bolt on top of the factory bushing without having to remove the factory bushings. We did not do the diff support bushings on this car for two reasons. Reason number one is the diff support bushing add NVH. The second reason is the factory diff support bushings in the 2020 are improved over the 2015 style. The diff bushings on the earlier cars would be necessary for drag racing and we only do road racing with our new R&D car.
@@ac427cobra yeah you may get nvh through the chassis but your preventing lash in the axles which leads to axles braking. NVH shouldn't be anything to worry about . Once you apply the throttle it goes away and is normal.
The Timken double tapered roller bearing we sell on our web site is the exact same Timken bearing that came on these cars from the factory. I do not have access to the number stamped on the bearing because we are out of the office at this time. Our part number for the Timken bearing listed on our web site is FT 6601. We also have a lower priced alternative which is also a heavy duty double tapered roller bearing that is also made in South Korea just like the Timken only it's a 'house' brand. Our part number for that bearing is FT 6602. We hope that helps.
We had absolutely zero added NVH with the addition of any of the IRS components until the differential bushing inserts were installed. Those did add NVH.
@@James-wv1nw Thank you! I was able to work it out myself in the meantime. Presumably the nvh damper can also be modified so that it fits with damper and the long bolts.
Unfortunately in my experience when these mods go and they do it destroys a lot of component. Best to just do it right once and get solid bushing and press them in.
I'm trying to stop wheel hop.. yes there's less movement but in this video it still wheel hops. I've done upper diff bushings, stop hop kit. adjustable shocks and I've tried different tires.
Man you guys really need to advertise and show your parts via you tubers a lot more, if it hadn't been for one of the videos I saw of you guys, I wouldn't know who full tilt Boogie was.
Your website says 15-17 only but the 18-21 are still the same MT-82. So does it still only work on the 15-17? Just verifying if the website is outdated or not.
Great video. Once you fix just the subframe fro t and rear it Eliminated 95% of all that without having to do the diff or the lower co from arm. My buddies 2018 is the loudest unbearable noisy POS after he changed all the parts you showed.. in the cabin you can hear a whine like your diff is going out., it is louder then his headers lol. My 2019 has just the subframe lockout from bmr and has 0 wheelhop and absolutely no extra noise or NVH. Be careful of you do all this if you daily drive your car you will commit suicide after 1 day of driving it lol..
Agreed. This stuff is great for the guys on the track but not fir daily driving. I bought the BMR level 2 cradle lockout kit also and lowering springs. (Not installed yet)
@@xGR1MxREAPERx so don’t use bmr lockouts for subframe or you’re saying use OEM diff bushings with bmr sub lockouts ? Trying to fix wheelhop and improve handling feel
I’ve got this on my ‘15 and I love it. I’m looking to add an aluminum driveshaft and safety loop; do you guys know of one that will work with this bracket?
At 11:18 on this video. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-R4uHVf6_ajM.html There are many other helpful install videos on the FTBR RU-vid page.
