Yes, “clutch buzz” is very common in the S2000. This is because the springs in our discs are more robust than the factory discs and because of this, the torsional vibrations are not completely dampened. These torsional vibrations are now audible and heard as “clutch buzz”. Please know that this now audible “clutch buzz” is not harmful to the engine or transmission.
13:32 some honda manuals say not to remove the painted bolt attached to the vehicle's body, well for 1.5tcivics (or you'll need to replace that mount) So I thought it would hold true for fk8s as well!
Awesome video, thank you! Excuse my ignorance, why is it necessary to remove the oil? The transmission is sealed and the clutch is dry. Doesn’t hurt to change the oil too, but…
The transmission is sealed, however, If you don't drain the oil, when you remove the axles from the transmission, you break the seal of the transmission and the oil will drain out there.
We recommend using the ceramlube that is usually included/packaged together with the disc. If you did not receive one, please call our tech line or send us an email at sales@advancedclutch.com and we will get you one sent out.
For anyone doing this on the ground, I recommend you take off the subframe bolts completely. this gives you much more room to fight the trans with. I also built an engine holder with a long plank of wood and extensions on the fender/frame area. i then tied a ratchet strap around the engine to secure it.
For anyone doing this on the ground, I recommend you take off the subframe bolts completely. this gives you much more room to fight the trans with. I also built an engine holder with a long plank of wood and extensions on the fender/frame area. i then tied a ratchet strap around the engine to secure it.
Since the MazdaSpeed 6 is All wheel Drive and the MazdaSpeed 3 is FWD, obviously removing the drive shaft and the transfer case will be different. Ultimately there are other differences as well, we would suggest that you attain a factory service manual to aid you on the replacement of your clutch.
Interesting. We have a scheduled installation date with a local shop but it’s nice to know what’s involved. I’m looking forward to the new clutch and flywheel
if doing this.. might aswell do aftermarket front sway bar + end links.. flywheel... trans fluid change.. acuity shifter bushings.. engine mount.. and maybe springs/coilovers all in 1 go to get the most done while its all apart and exposed
I’m not sure I would call them exactly “easy”. Basically, from the rear of the transfer case, we ended up using multiple long extensions and two people (one to guide the socket onto the bolt head and one to turn the ratchet) to get them undone.
@@ratoncolorado7227 We did not support the engine as the mounts are pretty much centered on the block and kept it balanced (it did not swing down either way to the front or rear).
We apologize for the late reply. It is not required to remove the shift knob to replace the clutch. We simply disconnected the shifter cables from the transmission. If you are trying to remove the shift knob for some other reason, according to the service manual, it just screws on the shifter. It may be tight, but you should be able to twist it counterclockwise to unscrew it.
I'm currently in middle or mine. I removed the cap put in the 6mm bolt and I wish the release lever shaft came out as easy as this video makes it look. I have spent 4 hours trying everything to get that out and it just isn't moving
Fait attention a cette vidéo ! Il met le disque d'embrayage a l'envers dans la vidéo. Sur le site ils disent de mettre l'étiquette côté volant moteur vérifie le . J'ai du redemonter ma boîte a vitesses a cause de cette vidéo
There are different methods for bleeding the hydraulics depending on what tools you have available. The way we did it was by removing the slave, aiming it downhill, compressing it, then having someone gingerly hand operate the clutch pedal while another is trying to keep the piston from overextending then loosening then tightening the bleed screw. You also must contend with the pedal assist spring as you are doing it. Since it’s a bit risky I don’t want to make a video of it.
@@AutoExpectations Make sure the slave is removed from the fork so that there is no load on the shaft. Try and have someone wiggle the fork while you try and remove the shaft. If that doesn’t work, probably not easy due to the tight space, but you may have to find a way to get something under the bolt head if it sticks out enough and leverage it out, if not use a longer bolt and try again. Attached is a link from another youtuber removing the shaft from the engine compartment. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-U0uuJRlJHL0.html
@@AdvancedClutchTechnology I tried everything listed and then some. Ended up breaking the bolt I screwed in lol. So white flag was raised it's at a shop now getting fix
It has been quite some time since we have done this installation. If memory serves us correctly, for the MT82 transmission, there are 2 engine to transmission bolts, 4 transmission to engine bolts, 3 engine to transmission stud bolts and finally 2 starter bolts. Also, we believe there are 2 bolts securing the engine spacer plate to the transmission. So, a total of 13 bolts. I hope this helps.
We believe the correct term for this clip is either a “clutch release arm leaf spring” or a “clutch release arm spring” and they should be available from an Audi dealership or maybe even a European vehicle specialty parts company such as ECS Tuning.
@AdvancedClutchTechnology would there be any reason I couldn't run the car without this piece? The bolt snapped off in the transmission and I've tried everything with no luck
@@skylerwilmot2906 We would not recommend installing the transmission without installing the release arm spring. It serves two purposes. 1 - it secures the release arm to the pivot and 2 - it helps returns the release arm/release bearing to the proper position when the clutch is disengaged. Without it, you stand the chance of the release arm/bearing not returning to the proper position causing increased wear on the guide tube or release bearing itself or even worse the release arm coming off the pivot which would then cause the clutch to become completely inoperable. Not to mention the possibility for damage to the slave cylinder, clutch or even the transmission itself. Our recommendation, if you have tried everything, would be to take your transmission to either a transmission shop or an automotive machine shop and have them extract the broken bolt and repair the threads if needed.
so curious . i just had my clutch done on my 18 sti. car has been getting some weird vibrations and not smooth power delivery at certain rpm’s. just seen that the white marks on the driveshaft yoke at end are 180 from each other .. could this be my issue????
Is the vibration only happening when the vehicle is moving? If you place it in neutral and rev it throughout the rpm range, does it vibrate then? If the answer is yes for the first question and no for the second question; this would mean that it is something in the drive train. While the drive shaft is balanced from the factory, we have experienced vibration when installing them with the markings not lined up. This is why we usually mark them ourselves during disassembly and then install them lining the marks up. Also, something else to look as it the center bearing of the drive shaft. If that is worn in even the slightest manner, vibration can result. Lastly, check all motor and transmission mounts, if any of them are worn or loose, this may also cause vibrations.
@@paxtondirk8826 had motor and transmission mounts replaced a month ago. and yes when revving in neutral car is perfect no vibrations. only when moving. i actually have it in the shop now and having them line up the driveshaft properly
@@AdvancedClutchTechnology yes everything is back! i know the shop personally they let me come out and look while it was on the lift. he was showing me the slight play the carrier bearing but said it was normal . otherwise it wouldn’t soak up the vibrations . marks are lined up and feeling good!
I secured my engine using wooden blocks. I obtained a lengthy piece of wood, sectioned it, and positioned the sections beneath the oil pan at both ends. Worked fine 🤷♂️
Thank you for question. In our many years of clutch testing, development and manufacturing, we feel that 11.8 ft./lbs. is awfully low for a M8 X 1.25 bolt. We have seen them back out causing disengagement issues and our pressure plate does have a higher clamp load than the OE pressure plate. Because of these reasons, we do recommend a higher torque (25 ft./lbs.) over the OE for the pressure plate fastening hardware.
We are unsure of what increase in torque you will gain from a cat less down pipe, intake, intercooler and a hondata tune. Do you have an estimated torque output you will be producing with your upgrades? We can tell you that our HD kit with a street disc (P/N HC10-HDSS) will hold up to 363 Ft-Lbs. and our HD kit with a race disc (PN HC10-HDG6) will hold up to 464 Ft-Lbs. So, depending on which kit you use, If your upgrades do not surpass these torque capacities, then it should not slip. However, if you do surpass our torque ratings for these kits, then it will slip.
when you lower subframe, is it "required" to detach the steering joint? I have seen a couple of videos that do it. I think even Honda has it in their service manual. I am not sure what that does to help.
I have a question and anyone is free to answer this so once you drain the transmission how much transmission fluid do you need to replace it like how many quarts???????
