I have ep8 motor and hate that batt display and the same way it can be updated with ep801 display, either way there is not wahoo app or computer that can show batt % for the peace of mind
Crazy how behind shimano are on nearly all their MTB products including their motors, I absolutely cannot stand the Shimano 801 motor, The 3 bikes I've tried have rattled like a tin can full of bolts(guess you got lucky), less power is frustrating when jumping off a bosch or a befang motor. IT's a damn shame as several good riding bikes have it installed.... exactly why Ebike motors should have a stand bolt pattern so you can dump shimano stuff for bosch, lots of brands have changed away from shimano which is fantastic. My new Marin ebike is soooooo good.
07:00 doesn't look like the motor stays on. They really botched it with the backpedal cancel. Bosch has had it right for 3 years now and they still managed to screw it up. Incredible. On Bosch you can backpedal after a pedal stroke after the bottom all the way around to switch the pull to the other foot. So after right foot pull, crank the left all the way around on top and pull on left while motor stays on on nearly a full rotation of the cranks. On this motor you can't even keep cranking one foot because of the cancel. Boggles the mind who makes these decisions.
@@S14AA In what situation would you ever want to cancel the overrun by backpedaling? That's when you need the overrun the most when you are cranking back to time pedal strokes... Did you think at all what you are saying or just say something sounds good because it exists without thinking at all?
@@rawmancemtb well when you have alot of overrun and you get pushed into something or into a switch back, for exaple on switch backs i switch down a power mode so there is less over run, lets say you hop up a rock ledge but then you need to bounce the bike around or trac stand straight away how do you do that when the back is still driving ? and in your comment you talk about changing which foot is cranking once the pedal gets to the bottom of the stroke if you can get the pedal to the bottom you can keep spinning it ? although unless there is something on the other side then you could only take 1 pedal all the way down then yes being able to turn back half a turn could be usefull but my then you should be up the edge and can reset ? the only time i see you point is up a rut where its long and you cant spin the pedals
@@S14AA You just use brakes to stop the overrun... Needing overrun is something that happens constantly. I've never thought I wouldn't want overrun in any scenario. Have you ever tried to to go fast on a trail? Your comment seems from someone who has never pedaled a moderately technical trail at any effort and is theorizing what it might be like. No you absolutely can't just keep pedaling when you cranking back to change the timing to not smash the pedals into rocks. Your comment makes no sense.
Since ZF made the new update for the BMZ/Sachs RS, it‘s overall the best Motor without any competition! 112nm Torque, EXTREMELY Powerful and very Punchy, even at a low cadence! The responsiveness and dosability are extremely good since the update! And it’s an 48V System, which allows that the BMZ RS has a lot more Range than all the other good motors even with a smaller Battery, although he is so much stronger than the others! And it’s an extremely stable engine with little problems and lots less than some of the others! ☺️👌🏼 Bosch CX/Race, Brose Drive S Mag, Yamaha PW-X3, Shimano EP801, all Motors feels extremely weak and lame after you drove the BMZ RS! 🤣 The only Motor who could keep up or is a little bit stronger is the TQ HPR 120s, but that is ugly and is so much worse in a lot of things! All combined it’s overall the best Motor Imho! You‘ll get an extremely powerful Motor who the others are not even comparable, a lot more range, less repairs than the most, the same or better responsiveness and dosability and an extremely direct and punchy Motor! 😌 I don’t see any downside with the Bmz RS besides that there are not many bikes with that engine! Before the update, the responsiveness and dosability was the point, where the others were ahead and where the others were better, but since the new update fixed this problem, it’s with a BIG GAP the best Power E Bike Motor! ☺️ Now there is not even one single thing that the other motors do a lot better! It’s not even comparable! 💀 Until there are new Motors that improve in some cases a lot, i would even say that it is a no Brainer and the Motor that you HAVE to choose! 🤷🏽♂️ It’s completely objectively considered simply THE BEST Motor! 🤷🏽♂️ The others simply can’t keep up with the BMZ RS! 🙈 If you think that the Bosch CX Race is so powerful and like you said in the video „that is not possible with other motors“ as you climbed up the trail, then you have for sure never drove the BMZ RS! 💀 That Motor would do the exact same with ease in the Turbo Mode! Then even the CX Race with the extended Boost and Race Mode is a lot weaker! And the best is that the RS could hold this Power without Problems! Like i said, with his 48V and 112nm it is on his own League with the Power that it has! 😅👍🏼
I have tried the RS from Sachs and yes that extra power is almost uncontrollable, a lot depends though on your riding skill to appreciate all the power. Thanks for writing your experiences.
👍Interesting that Shimano EP801 and the "common" Bosch engine now have 600W peek pover😊, but the most Interesting thing is, why Bosch with the Race motor still is the winner in Race, is the "Over Run" that the Bosch Race motor has, that is a "problem" and that has not been fair for many years😘
@@alexbiketester Of course, but a padel stike on a difficult and lumpy part when climbing, you lose both a lot of time and lose the flow. What the Bosch Race engine has with its Over Run will continue to be what makes them winners. Over Run will soon be a topic worth discussing and limiting within Emtb Race😉
@@alexbiketester EP801 firmware 4.3.0 is out with a heap of awesome features: Ver. 4.3.0 ■ AUTO SHIFT has evolved into AUTO SHIFT 2.2. ・ More precise gearshift control for AUTO SHIFT while pedaling that responds to changes in terrain and speed - Better gear shifting timing during acceleration. - Optimal gear shifting timing for each assist setting. - Holds manually shifted gear position in AUTO SHIFT mode, allowing you to continue pedaling in the appropriate gear - Self-learning has been added to the AUTO SHIFT function of internal shifting units ・ Improved shifting response for Automatic FREE SHIFT in aggressive riding - Improved response to rapid deceleration, achieving faster shifting to a lower gear ■ New functions have been added to the assist settings. ・ The "assist carry over function" has been added to the assist settings. This 3-level selectable function allows you to select the duration that assist continues after pedaling stops.* ・ The "assist cutoff function" has been added to the assist settings. This 3-level selectable function allows you to select when the assist cutoff starts near the maximum speed limit.* ・ An aggressive assist character has been added to the assist settings. The characteristics of the existing assist character Lv15 have been changed to be more aggressive.* *These settings can be changed on E-TUBE PROJECT Professional ver. 5.3.2. If you wish to make changes, please consult your place of purchase or a distributor. For E-TUBE PROJECT Cyclist, these settings will be available in the version after ver. 5.3.2. ■ Others General bug fixes.
Bafang BBSHD!! 8K on two different motors,5 crashes and only a magnet falling off the brakes is the only damage incurred and reconnect the battery is the only inconvenience, Also very rain repellent and durable 💪👌👍
I wish shimano would have some adjustment on the over run ive got ep800 damn shame i cant upgrade to more powerful ep801 Not sure what ill go next bike, im not big on the bosch less natural feeling in middle power modes
@@alexbiketester because I read that for sporty riding the M is good since I'm 1.80 and I have the choice between M and L, and because the GTs are also very compact bikes, what do you think, do you have any advice?
My Bosch CX Race has proven unreliable. In the shop for the third time for the same issue. 7 weeks total now, 500 miles on the bike, more than half dealing with the bike turning off throughout my rides.
@@alexbiketester crestline, it seems to be narrowed down to a motor issue but no decision on replacing it yet. Been through the latch and the battery connector already. Bike was turning off after so much pedaling. If we took a break, then descended, it wouldn’t turn off. Turn around to go back up, major issues as if it’s overheating.
Yeah I've come to the same conclusion. Bosch is the best because of that instant power delivery. Other motors have over run as well but none are so fast with the power. That's what you need to keep the power going in technical segments where you need to crank back the pedals to avoid strikes while still going. Powerplay is really powerful but they've ruined the motor with bad software choices. It only delivers power after the first pedal stroke. Which means the motor is useless in technical terrain.
Yamaha is lazy in the beginning and pulls after you get moving. That is a very bad charasteristic for an ebike motor. It means you can't keep speed in technical terrain. KOMs don't mean much if you have no competition as is the case with ebike segments. There are a lot of normal bike segments that are perfected but I haven't really seen a single serious ebike segment where someone has done a great run.
There aren't any in the wild yet being passed around. They are not on mass market bikes. Possibly available more next year, at the moment what you are seeing is marketing videos, not proper tests.
it sounds like the shimano was slightly quieter on the sprint climb than the CX would you agree? What about on generally level riding where maybe you are on the medium (not max) boost? Is one engine quieter than the other? I love the TQ50 (Trek Fuel EXE) as its nearly silent but it just doesnt have the power or, more importantly, the range that I am looking for in an ebike.
I agree with you with the Bosch, I've ridden Brose, Shimano, Yamaha & Bafang, I'm only interested in Bosch motor ebikes, all the others, doesn't interest me 🤪
I do desîgn motors for high end ebikes and emotos, all motors have different characteristics. Bosch is no exception. Mxus is not heard about but has excellent quality mid drive motors. The bbshd is unmatched yet.
Bosch in terms of power delivery and setup is great, especially the smart system is great. But mounting it with fiddly mounting plates and M5 screws.... Come on, that is just junk! I have a 2021 Radon Render with 2 wallowed out frame holes because of this. Ok I do like to crank quite hard and with a MX background be quite hard on the equipment but this design is beyond me! I have seen that they have learned from their mistake and the SX motor is attached with a through axle with bolts. Much better IMO. But I think the systems with motor and integrated gearbox like Pinion are the way to go for ebikes.
@@alexbiketester Thanks! I'll be looking to buy my first serious e-mtb within a year or so, and the entire 'right to repair' thing has me hesitating. The 'closed box' scenario that many ebike motor providers employ worry me because of the huge costs involved with out-of-warranty motor and battery replacements that are practically inevitable. Or, are ebikes essentially disposable once the owner can't fix them anymore...? It's an uneasy situation that is largely ignored, and one that affects everyone interested in getting a real performance eeb. I used to work at a motorcycle dealership in my youth, and you could buy every gear, washer, electronic connector on any motorcycle - why do we not have the same access for these ebikes?
Good to hear the polini has serviceability and parts are available haven't seen many bikes equipped with the motor in the uk, I like how the Shimano motor feels when riding but think my next ebike will have a Bosch just because servicing them is supported better. Good to hear your thoughts on these different motors, maybe you could look at the different controls and software they all use and which is best.
