USA made, hubs, headsets, bottom brackets, cranksets, handbuilt wheels and more from; Chris King, White Industries, Phil Wood, Industry Nine, ONYX Racing, CeramicSpeed, ENVE, Silca, Zipp and many more.
Note, presenter briefly mentions "BSA" threads. There's no such thing, what you mean is BSC (British Standard Cycle). BSA was a brand a long time ago, like a hundred years ago, stood for Birmingham Small Arms. Since then many people and even companies have gotten these confused, for example I have Nervar cranks that say BSA on them referring to the pedal thread. They just mean English, as in "not French" pedals. Maybe once enough people are using it wrong, it becomes the new right? Oh well it's moot now. I'm just glad I'm old and have enough BSC shells and cranks that fit 'em that I will never have to touch one of these dumb modern "improvements" that exist only to make older standards obsolete, so you have to buy new stuff. Resist!
Excellent video- super helpful. To anyone watching this in 2024, watch this but also look at the updated videos on the Chris King channel, especially how they remove the snap ring, it's slightly different from how they show it here and the way they show it is much easier!
Can you please advise which is better for a titanium frame with Ultegra Di2, BSA threaded BB shell or T47 treaded BB shell? Is it worthy to "upgrade" for T47 BB shell when selecting titanium frame?
Excellent explanation to help understand the complex world of BB's. I'm planning move out of my tree's bikes with BB90 to a more reliable one and T47 is in my bucket list.
Here's the link to White Industries MARG30 crank and bottom bracket compatibility chart. www.whiteind.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/02/White-Industries-MR30-Crank-and-Bottom-Bracket-Compatibility-Chart-V1-Sheet1.pdf
Hello, could someone tell me which direction I have to unscrew the cap, the caps were already put on the cranks when delivered and I've tried to remove them (I was thinking at that time it was Necessary) and I've put a big trace on them and the crank with the pin spanner. I am quite disappointed. I should be able to remove them just to put another color, I don't understand how it is possible it's already so tight. Thank you!
hi there I am now new to T47 standards, all my bikes has been using bb86 or bb386 pressfit, now I am into a new frame for gravel which use t47, the brand did not specific shield width however ( I am not sure if it is a 68mm or 86mm ) , some BS has a limited stock of BB for dub sram where I live, I will set up a 2x force wide crankset on this frame ( Aurum brand, Manto gravel model), I got the dub road/road wide T47 / 68 , should fit or should not? Or would I need in T47 as mentioned?
Here's the links to the parts you will need. avt.bike/products/chris-king-thru-axle-for-r45-rear-disc-142-x-12mm-r45-disc-gen2-centerlock avt.bike/products/copy-of-chris-king-r45-driveshell-11-speed-shimano-aluminum-bearings-included-phb765-phb765b?variant=43230552621301
I've got a T47 30i ceramic bottom bracket with FSA SL-K Modular Super Compact BB386EVO Crankset 165mm 30/47 tooth. I need to replace my T37 30i. What fit kit do I need to purchase? Thanks!
@@AVTBike so basic service is using IPA 99% to clean the spindle, the hub innards and where the 2 rings meet. Then relube with the Drive Lube 2.0? We never have to take the hub apart and regrease bearings, or take it to a bike shop to get that done instead cuz you’ll need special tools. Etc
@@GokkunGuru The bearing service will be the same process. You only need to remove the internals when they are heavily worn or damaged. Most services can be done with limited tools.
Spacers are used to adapt BB's/cranks to each specific frame. There are BB cup and crank spindle spacers which can be used to adjust the spindle position to add extra clearance, or to fine tune chainline. Here's some links for Chris King and White Industries recommendations. Chris King cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/2920/2114/files/bb_fit_guide_r1.pdf?v=1632265266 White Industries MR30 www.whiteind.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/02/White-Industries-MR30-Crank-and-Bottom-Bracket-Compatibility-Chart-V1-Sheet1.pdf
Love how White Industries nickel and dimes you after arm and a leg you for things like pawls and free hub spacers. 20 dollars shipping for a washer that should ship with a $380 hub.
@@AVTBike Just frustrating to spend so much and wait so long on hubs and not come with a simple cheap spacer .....to find out shipping is $20 for something that could fit in a letter sized envelope.
I have a T47/68 BB shell on a frame I’m building up. Your explanation took the headache out of either needing an inboard or outboard BB so thank you 🙏🏻
Rubbish hubs. I bought them after having Hope RS4 for many years. Nothing but problems with these. Rattling noises. And servicing them after just 2 summers maybe 6000km is just bullshit.. Opened up and bearings totally dry like never had any grease in them.
That looks way too quick and easy. I didn't even think that this was even possible. How much is the new thru axel part? Is the new axel from Chris King? Is this the 100mm standard or 110mm boost? Is this the 15mm axel or 20mm? Thank you.
I have a rear White Industries Freehub that needs servicing. I would love to just pay someone to diagnose and fix is. But my mechanic says he wont touch it, and wants me to buy a new wheel. (why not just sell me what he has in stock). Even Mikes Bikes, a SF Bay area shop with lots of stock, says they cant get these in stock- or that they parts are really expensive.Anyone have a suggestion?
I'm not sure why either shop would not work on the hub for you. They are very simple to take apart and service. We stock many replacement parts if needed. These hubs will last a very long time with routine maintenance. If you have any questions send us a message to sales@avt.bike.
I have a couple of these hubs and they spin very nice. I especially like the titanium free hub body. But this preload adjust needs to change. It's delicate and sometimes doesn't hold well enough.
As always: PERFECT! Only 1 thing. - Do you have any advice how to get rid of that disgusting taste in your toothbrush that sometimes last for weeks after a thorough CK service. - Is there any products out there with - say - peppermint flavor?
Nice cranks, but HORRIBLE CUSTOMER SERVICE. Ordered these for my build and found out they were not compatible. Returned them new/unused to AVT and they will not refund or exchange them. Customer service FAIL.
I bought one microspline conversion kit 12x142 directly from ChrisKing site. I made the upgrade to XT 10-51 kit. We made the swap just like the video. But I've been experiencing some noise. It get worse when I put extra power / torque. My mechanical firt thought that the problem whas between the cassete and the freehub. But after many tests now he believes that the problem is between the freehub and the driveshel (something about the conical bearing). ChrisKing is sending a new conversion kit, but I'm afraid that the problem will not solve. Have you heard any similar issue? Do you have any tip that can help me? Thanks.
@@ronenchernyak7911 unfortunately not. Here is what they sad to me. “ In those kits, we had a few go out with the inboard driveshell bearing not lubed. I'd like to make sure this one is lubed and not running dry. To access that bearing, you will need to remove the driveshell end cap with Park Tool FR1.3 or similar freewheel tool, to remove the axle and outboard bearing. It would also not hurt to lube the interface of the outboard driveshell bearing and the drivehell. Second, the driveshell end cap needs to be fully installed and flush with the end of the driveshell. The torque spec on it is ~40in/lbs. Bearing preload is essential in these newer driveshells systems. Ensure bearing preload is nice and tight by tightening the clamp against the bearings so that you feel it bottom out, then add an additional 1/16 to 1/8 turn against the bearing, then tighten to clamp to 10 in/lbs. Let me know if you have any questions on the above. Alternatively, we can get your hub/wheel in for an evaluation” Did you have your problem solved?
@@caiofiqueiredo1 That's a bummer 😕 They just sent me a new one that is supposed to arrive today, and I've got a bad feeling it's going to repeat itself. Thanks for the reply!
@@ronenchernyak7911 I took my bike to one of the best here in Brazil. I showed him the e-mail. He made all the process again and made the lubrication of the inboard driveshell bearing as they mentioned. I’ve ride three time since them, long distances, very dry and dust weather, and the noise apparently was solved. Let's hope that is all that was needed. Let me ride some more times and see.
