I like those pants looks like they are extra lined, when i did this as a child a piece of the wedge flew off and went straight through my denim into my knee bet it wouldnt with something like those.
My dad never did tile before and just did it himself and it was WAY WAY better then that. Its not perfect but at least he put some effort into it. What you have there is called a hackjob LOL.
I've been tiling for years and am fairly good at it. Always use tile edge unless the customer doesn't want it, done plenty of indented soap dishes, both inserts and custom built. I still almost always have 'lippage' though. I will take rows of tiles off the wall, re-buttering , try to pound the high spot a bit, usually from build up of schluter membrane in the corners.. but eventually after spending half hour on one small lip i just continue on.
The tiles themselves are sometimes cupped. One way to tell how much the tile is cupped is to put the two tiles face to face and you can see how much they are cupped. Some are so cupped that it is impossible to install without lippage if there is an offset. Levelers like the Spin Doctors are a must in larger tiles. You might want to check out www.youtube.com/@SalDiBlasi he has many great videos on tile installation tips, tricks, and proper installation methods.
I have a gas powered one, but for $160 I wanted to see how this works. Was looking for something simple to cut up stuff for the smoker. It is actually about 70% as powerful as a gas powered 49cc. Well worth the money so far, we will see how it holds up.
@@winstonsteelscorp5960 I have the Milwaukee battery powered 14" saw. I love it. Agree they aren't as powerful as a gas powered saw of the same size. I have memories of using the corded hedge trimmer and going through the cord more than once. That's mainly why I picked up the battery powered Milwaukee.
It was brass with a lead pipe so it was in relatively decent shape. We had the plumber remove the old plumbing pipes and replace with PVC. Some areas require any lead is replaced, it is a good idea to always do it. The lead will last a long time, but the remodeling process tends to cause them to crack or break.
guarantee no keying in of substrate, directional troweling is not there, or back buttering. Total fail. garbage..... he had to get a bunch of tiles down to make his check bigger Friday😂
This was actually a mushroom. It is not spray foam. The previous contractor did not install the toilet correctly, so it leaked causing the wood to become wet. Carpenter Ants started living in the wood and piled up wood shavings under the toilet and a mushroom grew in the space under the toilet.
What style of construction is this (Office, Industrial, Residential)? I like the expanded metal, even if its just for the foam to grab on to better .. It looks like its also a good layer of security as well.
This is a basement in a single-family home. The brown board you see him spraying the foam onto is a waterproof drainage board that prevents water from entering the space while channeling the water to the under slab drain tile system. Spray foam for any exterior undergrade walls is standard for our work. Every time we have removed fiberglass insulation used below grade it has had mold. With spray foam and waterproofing systems the mold can be completely prevented. We install drywall on the metal framing for final finishing and painting.
I see about 40% coverage technically, but the tile didn’t bond properly. The thinset was probably too dry or skinned over. Back buttering would have helped.
We use Schluter Systems for our Waterproofing which does come with a lifetime warranty. Here are some of our videos on the system. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-gDI-ytqNI9o.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-SElYuaKXvvM.html
