Very helpful videos. Thanks. Do you remember the torque specs you used for the rear Arnott air strut and also for these rear shocks? Sorry for the bother but would be much appreciated. Thanks again.
Thanks for posting this, I'm about to do this myself. What did you use as the rear jack point to get both rear wheels elevated at the same time so you could place the jack stands?
Mentioned in previous video, its not used with the replacement air bags they are an improved design that doesn't need a reservoir. You just cut it very short and leave it loose
Hey bud, 2 questions.... (1) how's that advanced axle holding up or I should ask how does it feel if any notable things?, I know it hasn't been in that long... (2) would it be possible to just disconnect upper control arm/ball joint and lower shock for room to remove axle? Thanks man !!! Also heard those axle bolts should always be replaced as the stretch or something like that, but don't quote me on that one , I do agree though sticking with the Mercedes bolt is a good idea just think a new one is needed not sure because I've removed that boat before doing other work and put the old one back in LOL
(1) 0 issues with the axles (did both sides) so far and they have a 1 year warranty so I very happy with them given the much higher price for OEM parts. It also seemed to me like the CV boot was thicker material and should last longer. If there are any issues I figure they will show up in less than a year (2) I actually had the same though while I was working on the upper control arm and I think it would probably work but I cant say for sure since I haven't done it. I do have some additional thoughts though... Disconnecting there requires a special tool (see the upper control are vid) and I think the work effort is about the same so I'm not sure if there's a benefit to do it that way (3) Stretch bolts - thanks for the head up on this! I knew these were used in the head but didn't know about the axles. I looked into the stretch bolts and found a couple ways on how to identify them but I still not sure if these are stretch or not. I will be trying to see if I can find out from my local dealer. Here is what I found on help identifying... "Take a machinist's rule and lay it across the threads. If the peak of every thread touches the rule then the bolt is fine. If some threads are short, even a little bit, then the bolt is stretched and must be replaced" also "The torque for stretch/single use bolts is usually specified as an initial torque plus a tightening angle. e.g. 50Nm+90°" Unfortunately I'd have to pull the bolts to test with the 1st test but the second description does seem to fit. I will update further with the dealer info when I get it
At advance auto online, with price match, speed perks, and 30% discount code, I paid about 340$ for each rear shock and 260$ for each rear air spring (air bag). It took a lot of fighting with them to get them to combine all those discounts, if you don't want to argue with them I found rockauto was lowest once you add their 5% discount code
Mentioned in previous video, its not used with the replacement air bags they are an improved design that doesn't need a reservoir. You just cut it very short and leave it loose
Thanks for taking the time to make this vid. I didn't think you could get the shock out without disconnecting the axle from the hub. I ended up pulling the axle and lower control arm out as well as pretty much every other thing in the wheel well.
Yea, unfortunately, I was hoping there was a leak elsewhere I would find and fix on the cheap bit it ended up being the bags. The shocks were shot also, I put up a quick video of that replacement too
I think these old brushes are not half way trough but are completely worn out. Per previous video, the wires on the old brushes were pushing against the plastic frame already, when this happens, its no longer let the brush come out any further.
correct, they have to be long enough for the wires to connect and for the springs behind them to make pressure so they are worn out even before they are worn all the way down
When the count is out of limit, the warning is in white color to service the brakes. But the red warning is when there is lack or pressure. You did not needed to replace the reservoir, there was no pressure because pump was not pumping.
I believe you are mistaken, I believe the error I had c249f causes a red warning but either way you can't troubleshoot by the color of the warning you must go by the codes to be sure and my second error c2131 was the indication of a bad reservoir. The actual cause of the c2131 was the pressure sensor inside the pump and there is no way to fix that sensor so I had to get a new pump. When I get time I will be doing one final video on this topic to cover that last bit
The SBC system has its own battery btw,maybe it was time to replace your SBC battery, its located. its under the airfilter box under the hood you have to open it.
Can you advise on Fault Code "C217A Check Power Supply of component valve relay" ? Do I need another SBC unit ? When I check for Power Supply values the Autel tool shows "054 Power Supply Valve Relay" 12.0 or 12.1 Volts when brakes are good and others I get 5.6 or 6.1 Volts when I have no brakes with the red screen beeping. Thanks.
Its great you pulled your code, don't know the fix off hand for that code but I would do a lot of searching online for that code and see what I could find. The first thing that comes to mind if you are getting voltage warnings would be the SBC battery in the engine bay near the air filter or the car battery in the trunk. I would test new batteries in both places and also get the alternator tested. ...And yes the SBC has a separate small battery that it uses
Can you help me identify my SBC issue? I get a code "C217A Check power supply of component valve relay." My scan tool shows that "054 Power supply valve relay" is sometimes at 5.6V and sometimes at 12V when it works OK. At the connector plug all the voltages are 12-13V with engine running. By the way the unit is only 3 years and 5000 miles old. I doubt that it needs brushes already.
Its great you pulled your code, don't know the fix off hand for that code but I would do a lot of searching online for that code and see what I could find. The first thing that comes to mind if you are getting voltage warnings would be the SBC battery in the engine bay near the air filter or the car battery in the trunk. I would test new batteries in both places and also get the alternator tested. ...And yes the SBC has a separate small battery that it uses
Sorry to hear it, the same thing actually happened to me. From jacking up the back to fix it, the right front was old and started leaking from the extra pressure when the back was jacked up. I'm uploading a video today for pt1 of the front replacement, the removal, and will finish the job before the weekend then post pt2. Email me on ssmiller60@gmail.com if you want and I can help you find a deal on getting the front rebuilt
Can I change the accumulator myself? I just ordered a brand new one...can I disconnect main battery and screw off the accumulator & screw on the new one?
That's what I did but I disabled the SBC first using the Xentry tools. I'm not sure if this would be safe to disabling it first. I will be doing a vid on this in a few days
Ren Sam I shut all doors, ignition key out. Waited 10min, replaced Accumulator Ball some brake.fluid sprayed gently. Screwed new one in. But needed SDS to clear the hard code and it's gone! 2005 E55 AMG 137k
Great so it sounds like you can maybe get away with replacing the accumulator without Xentry if you can find a way to clear the code after. Worse case I guess you could do all the work yourself and then pay a shop for 30 min labor to clear the code and still save a lot of money
I bought my e200 year 2004 for what I thought was a bargain at £2150. The car was immaculate with 1 owner and 70k miles. I noticed the only message on the dash was "brakes visit workshop" the seller told me it was a small sensor at fault...he lied! He knew that the sbc pump was on its way out...I didn't!. Anyways, I had done about 3000 miles when the red warning light "STOP brake system defective"came on out of no where and I had no brakes! Luckily I was only going down a small side street and I managed to get my car home. Anyways I took it to Mercedes on a mates tow truck and they told me the sbc pump needed replacing. I saved up for 4 months and today I had it replaced by Mercedes for £1573.37! A lot of money I know but I'm happy now and my car is safe that's the main thing! Funnily the seller of the car saw me as he only lives a few streets away and asked me how the car was running! I told him it was fine and he couldn't work it out cos he was expecting me to say it's fucked and he was ready to give me his bullshit story that it was fine when I sold! Moral of the story...cunts will always be cunts😊
Your pressure fault is probably the pressure sensor inside the SBC unit since your pressure test is passing. Can't replace the sensor. New pump unfortunately. I have the same issue.
Hey Sam! I was looking for your part 2 video. Did you finish the air suspension fix on mercedes? Would love to view it. My son had similar issue the other day while driving. By no means am I a mechanic but I could have some insight of what needs to be done. Thanks!
Hi, do you have the red warning to this error? If you got a working acumulator and wasn't careful, you could have jammed a check valve open preventing the accumulator from holding pressure.But, theres another issue, not the right part for your SBC. Not all acumulators works in all units, you must check the part number for compability. By your unit number, the right acumulator number (mercedes number) is A0004302694 or 0265202070 (bosch number), you can easily find it new on eBay for 120$ brand new.
The "c2131 pressure reservoir faulty" was an issue before I attempted to install the new accumulator so it could not have been the cause, and it did end up working on another identical SBC so not sure of the part number on the new one but it worked. Thanks for the info though, maybe it will help someone else reading, also i will mention this in the next vid
Hi, I just happened upon your videos as when I was home last I noticed that the back of our 2005 Estate was low. My wife doesn't use it on a daily basis. Unfortunately I am going to have to wait until August, when I am driving back to England, to take it to the Mercedes Independent Specialist who works on our car to fix it. Anyway, when I bought my car a couple of years ago, and took it to them to service, they mentioned the expensive brake unit that comes with the car. It is a really good system but if it breaks they couldn't service or fix it. Mercedes will not provide service kits or software loading information at all. Reason being that it is effectively, fly-by-wire type technology. The brake pedal in the car is just an electrical potentiometer. If the software you loaded it with was corrupt there is the potential for you to be driving along, put your foot on the brake and absolutely nothing happen. That is why Mercedes have made the warning light so massive that you can't drive the car with it on. Sorry this doesn't really help but good luck in your hunt for a solution.
I have also the same problem with pressure accumulator (Fault C2131). I already replaced it but the fault code is still there. Did you already fixed it? Please write me back! Thanks
I ended up replacing the SBC with a used one, i believe c2131 is caused by a bad sensor inside the SBC that I could not find a way to access. Will be covering this soon in a new vid
Great Video! After doing some troubleshooting I may be doing a rebuild of my SBC pump also. If you still have a contact for the new brushes, what is the best way to get information on how to get them from you?
I did not give the size since there are at least 2 and maybe more sizes from Mercedes, you must measure your own brushes to be sure to get the right size sorry. Please check out the other vids I have provided info on how to get the correct brushes they are custom order to get the correct material
Is buying a replacement SBC unit worth it. And what sites got it cheaper? Cause am about replacing the car but the red brake warning sign is up. The ABS and ESP works and all braking sensors and pads replaced yesterday. Help help help
Thanks for the video helped me with a counter reset. Probably the most valuable info contained in the who;e video was the counter reset procedure to reset the pump time out code. Very helpful especially if you are replacing with a used pump that still functions good. As you mentioned in your video a complete test of the pressures and pump integrity is a must. If you reset the counter the pump will continue to work until it finally fails from an actual mechanical fault in which case you will still get a Red Warning in the dash. If the pump were to fail completely you will still have front brake function only with no power assist so you will need to press real hard to stop the car and if needed also apply the parking brake to stop even faster in case of emergency. Like you said only do it at your own risk. If money allows just buy a remanufactured pump and install it and your done as they are reset when they are rebuilt and bench tested. Usually its just a matter of install and bleed the system. But not everyone has a spare grand laying around for a pump. Thanks again! And the part you mentioned you couldnt remember was the stop light switch a common problem across the board in most older Mercedes with ABS, ASR, BAS, lights coming on. On 80s Benz if you get an ABS light and the brakes are all looking good check and replace the over voltage relay another common problem. Good luck to all.
Hello I wanted to share some of my knowledge to hopefully help you not make the same mistakes I have in the past working on the 211 chassis. First off I want to tell you that your plan of driving the car with a leaking air spring untill it can no longer hold the car is awful ;). I have done this and what happens is that the tires no longer wear correctly becuase the cars level cannot be held contestant because it is leaking on one the shocks(that cost me a new set of front tires cause the sidewalls where worn to the belt). Secondly you will ruin your 400 airmatic pump very quickly as i also did. The car now has to run the pump much more often to keep the level up, and remind you these pumps run quite often with no leaks anyways. Secondly you will not want to purchase a OEM air spring as this design calls for removal of the sub frame due to the use of small reservoirs each of the air springs has. instead buy arnott replacement ones, simple 45 min job and you omit the use of a reservoir. I have worked on many 211 cars and leaks coming from the lines themselves are extremely rare, unless caused by someone doing a bad repair. Ive seen a ton of problems with the 211 E class, let me know if i can be any help.
Thanks for the info, when it warms up here I will be checking all the lines/connections for leaks and then decide from there what to do. I am aware of the Arnott units and if I replace them that is definitely the way I will be going but I'm not going to be spending a ton of money on a 2000$ car
Hey Jack can you help me? I have a 2005 E 320 I have replaced rear bags with arnotts and all air lines. I replaced the air pump. The whole car is riding really low. I had a car shop work on it and its never worked after doing all of this work. What else could it be. When I press the raise up button it doesn't seem like it works. When I turn on the car it seems like I hear the car pump kick on for about a second and a half not much and it doesn't seem like it raises it at all. All 4 ties are in the rear wells now and they are brand new with less than 3k miles on them.
If all 4 wheels are low it sounds like you have a problem with your air pump or the distribution block that connects to the pump and splits the air pressure out to the rest of the car. Test the pump and check for air leaks with soapy water
Hi Brake service! visit workshop! I have raplaced brake switch, wear sensors..pads, rotors.. When scan the sbc for DTC, the warning goes away and car is on. But when start the car again, the warning comes on, so any idea?? Or do i have to replace the SBC. Thanks! Read more
Sam, if you want to buy a Mercedes Re-manufactured SBC pump, try FCP Euro for about $900.00 with a lifetime exchange warranty. Keep up the good videos.
This is awesome, so that is all it took to get the brakes working again for this massive design flaw? I am thinking of purchasing a 2004 E320, however was scared away by the SBC issue.
