Hello, I'm watching from Germany and this car is very rare here. But thanks to your instructions I'll be changing my next brakes myself. Thank you and best regards
Where did you get the yellow cap funnel and how much was the part from Honda the thermostat what is the part number please ty Vernon I have a 2016 Honda crv lx 2.4L ty
Thank you! The video is simple to follow and not over complicated. I've done brakes on all of my vehicles throughout the years but sometimes different car brands are slightly different so I watch this just as a refresher. Very happy I clicked on this video.
Great tutorial. Clear explanations, logical progression with minimal fluff. Video shots were clear and concise without the excessive "shakey-cam" seen in many videos.
It’s a good idea to check that oil and that compressor. I normally drain it out because it’s storage oil and fill it with the correct amount with the right PAG oil.
Great video. The most concern I have is that the tensioner bolt is very hard to pull and it is very possible to strip the head. My suggestion is to use this wrench, DURATECH 14mm Extra Long Ratcheting Wrench, Metric, CR-V Steel, and the wrench extender, Wrench Extender Tool Bar,Torque Adaptor Wrench Extension,Extra-Long 15 Inch Wrench Extension for Maximum Leverage,Ideal for Mechanics,DIYers,Garage Mechanics, Amplified Torque Handymen(15 Inch).
Great video, thank you so much for sharing it! I watched several but yours was by far the best and I greatly appreciated that you shared part numbers as well as torque wrench settings for everything that needed it. I noticed one difference between all the videos I watched including yours, and that was the addition of a bracket that goes over the control arm. Last year we had a recall on our 2007 crv done, and I’m assuming this is what was added for it but not sure. So I had to take that bracket off in order to get the control arm to lower out of the way, for anyone that has had the recall done this may be an additional step and the control arm having two different bolts with different head sizes. I don’t think my drivers side work was done properly however and it resulted in me cross threading a bolt. Had to have someone rethread it, but it is done. So be careful those that have had the recall some when putting the control arm back. Your video was still tremendously helpful thank you!
I also bought a Denso compressor from amazon. I changed out the complete ac system. Everything. But please note that Denso does not consider Amazon an Authorized seller so when I needed to make a warrantee claim less than a year in. They would not cover the compressor.
This is Astra from Roadanvi . We are a brand specializing in car stereos, infotainment systems, and related accessories.I would like to invite you to review our products. How should I contact you?
Thank you for the video. My rear hatch struts on my tC just gave out and I recently had my front and rear struts assembly replaced earlier this year among other costly repairs.
FanDamtastic video Vinnie, thank you very much along with the other video to replace the front struts, which I need to do on my wife's 2009 CR-V. Best video for detailed info
3 years later. i find this video. I have the same issue and ordered everything. Im going to try it this weekend when it all arrives. Following step by step. I hope this works!
I did same on my Legacy. But, as I have Hitachi ECU, I purchased the SAI system bypass "box". The price was 70USD and it worked just fine. 3000 miles all good still.
Glad you talked about the correct location of wear indicator. On the Impreza and Crosstrek, the repair manual is confusing because it points to a similar location as a brake pad return spring, but this does not apply to these models. On the Outback this is true, but not on the Impreza or Crosstrek. This is actually the wear indicator and not a return spring, and for some reason it's on both pads. If it was a return spring there would be a metal surface on the shims for the spring to to ride on.
I bought a wheel stud installer tool and a set of 10 studs and lug nuts just in case of this situation, which appears all too common on Subarus. The installer tool was cheap and I'm glad to have it around. I normally do all my rotations with all the correct torque specs, but sometimes you gotta take it to a shop and sometimes they mess it up.
It depends where you purchase the compressor at. Might be able to find a good deal online, but I’m not sure how it works when shipping parts to Germany.
Yeah well there’s multiple ways of doing and completing a job, I never had to remove it and neither did many others, I would give it a try without removing it first.
So the compressor on my car blew out now has a huge hole on the side of it and leaked out everything. Before I replace it myself do I need to vacuum the system of debris and contaminate?
Pulling a vacuum is to remove the freon from the system, I’m not sure if that would help in your situation, it sounds like you may be able to just replace the AC compressor.
When i changed our camrys pads and rotors, when i pressed the caliper in i loosened the bleeder valve to keep air pockets from happening in the brake lines.Is that not necessary here? I cant imagine how itd be different?
If the bleeder valves are not opened and there is no air in the lines to begin with then you shouldn’t need to do this, but some people like to bleed out some of the brake fluid incase they did have air in the lines.
Typically in the dealerships I’ve worked in, we don’t open the bleeder unless we’re bleeding the brake fluid, the reason for this is because many many times the bleeder can snap off if it hasn’t been touched in many years, which ends up being an even bigger issue. I’ve never had any problems just pressing the caliper piston back in. But if you do that and feel a spongy brake pedal then that means there’s air in the lines and you should then bleed the brakes. If you do bleed the brakes, then I always start from the furthest caliper away from the fluid reservoir, and work my way closer, so it would Right Rear, then Left Rear, then Right Front, then Left Front.
Maybe Someone can help me here with the differential. I have to replace the differential on my 2022 Honda CRV 1.5 turbo EXL. When I search on the internet, two codes appear: 41200-5TG-010 and 41200-5TG-900 Is there any difference between both parts? or both fits my car? I´m not in the US
