Welcome to my RU-vid channel! My name is Semyon and I'm a Toronto-based music producer, artist and songwriter. I'll be posting production videos, product reviews, and any other tips related to production, mixing, mastering and a bit of songwriting.
Now I backup everything to a server, but if you have 2 drives for backup, it's essentially for redundancy. So if 1 backup drive fails or there is a house fire, a 2nd backup drive (stored at a friends or family house) can be there just in case.
@@Semyon_Music yeah it's 2024, backup nowadays used server/cloud but can i used only SSD only perhaps? now I decided to use server, as you mentioned server.. i recently lost everything due to war in my place they burnt all my stuff .. server/cloud could be better
The sliver Neutrik TRS plugs are a lot easier to work with. Your leads are so long you can't bend the plug ears, onto the outside jacket of the cable. With the silver plugs, you could. Also, the leads on the silver plugs are side by side instead of stacked.
@@Semyon_Music The plug itself on the silver is chromed, so I don't think it will tarnish. The body probably will over time, but you can put heat shrink over the whole plug if that's a concern.
@@Semyon_Music the rap genre, but i dabble in house music and film score cinematic for fun. i think i'm going with the m3 pro. the m2 max is 2500 refurbished and tempting. but m3 pro is 2100ish. I need some new speakers so i'll use the extra money on that
Thank you for this video ! what size brackets did you sue for your S61 Komplete ? I have the same and I am not sure if it is 12/14/16/ or 18 inches ?? thank you !!!
Good if you have no legs or knees lmfao. Also the rails you link you don't have enough clearance/height in them. For example M-Audio Oxygen 61 MKV doesn't fit as it has a tilted base and knobs sticking out.
I have a sit to stand desk so at the height I have it (30 inches), there’s still enough clearance! Also this works with my NI S61 MK2, but I could see how thicker keyboards might not fit
I'm about to buy this Caldigit Element Hub in a couple of days!! 💪🏽 I just bought the NEW PreSonus Quantum HD8 audio interface and I'm really hoping that it'll work with this Caldigit hub just like it's working with yours! 🤞🏼
@Semyon_Music I already got it! It's super dope with every connection you need, and the sound quality is SUPERB!! I LOVE IT!! ❤️ 💯 5 stars! 🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟 I'm just waiting to get the Caldigit Element Hub now here in a couple of days to pair with it!! 💪🏽🏆
Great video, just a heads up Neutrik in their assembly instructions for the NP3X line of connectors recommends breaking off the tip of the plastic chuck, the one that you show at 26:10, when you are using it with a cable with a diameter greater than 5.5mm or .216", the Mogami Neglex is a 6mm outer diameter sized cable so you would want to break it off. You can find the detailed instructions on Neutriks product page for the NP3X connector.
These are indeed amazing speakers that allow for a near field listening without sacrifizing the low end - 3 dB @ 36Hz for a speaker of this small size is indeed an achievement No other compact speaker can do this
Honestly, you'll be better off with leaded solder. Something like Kester 44. Soldering does NOT produce lead fumes. Leaded solder is far more forgiving, and, in my experience, longer lasting -- lead free tends to be brittle, and requires higher temps to solder well. Also, no need for the quad cable. Mogami W2549 or W2552 works great, and is designed for this application. Try a pair of cheap hemostats (or medical needle holders) to hold your wire while soldering.
Before you twist the copper ground strands together , separate them in two bunches. Twist them together once so that you have a twisted section next to the rubber and two groups of strands. Then tin them where they're twisted. Then you can cut one bunch off and have a smaller lead to solder.
again: *FYI: when you purchase an external subwoofer for the studio YOU SUBS SHOULD NEVER EVER BE ON THE GOD DAMN FLOOR UNDER THE DESK!!!!! Outside of PROTOOLS, STUDIO ONE AND WOKE LGBTQ, that is the dumbest thing I have ever seen on my life, putting SUBS ON THE FLOOR THROWING UNDER THE CONSOLE... which means at a slower sound you must turn them up louder to match them with the tops which have faster transient's. Then because of that now you need far more AND more elaborately made acoustic treatment ETC $$$$$$$ IE: these corporations and banks set everyone up inn this industry to spend spend spend, with a boat load of false science.*
*(((((((((((((((((((((((((((((( Come on my son, YOU CAN NOT SIT THERE AND COMPARE a KRK Rocket to a Barefoot....! )))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))* KRK, automatically need a sub woofer no matter what room you are in, so that 6in or 5in can handle the MID RANGE ONLY and an actual 10" sub can translate everything below that steep cross over point. A KRK is built to a certain price point, which encompass cheaper components in the internal cross over and connection post, that hold residual energies and cause image-smearing ETC The BAREFOOTS have higher grade components and an actual built in sub system that is not only designed with 2 drivers, which increase surface area and therefor more air being moved in your room, but are situated [ just like we position subs on arena shows] #BOTH whereon a per-channel you use 2 subs to cancel each other out, so you get SUB but not the build up in that position and those subs are OFF THE GROUND and in mix position! *FYI: when you purchase an external subwoofer for the studio YOU SUBS SHOULD NEVER EVER BE ON THE GOD DAMN FLOOR UNDER THE DESK!!!!! Outside of PROTOOLS, STUDIO ONE AND WOKE LGBTQ, that is the dumbest thing I have ever seen on my life, putting SUBS ON THE FLOOR THROWING UNDER THE CONSOLE... which means at a slower sound you must turn them up louder to match them with the tops which have faster transient's. Then because of that now you need far more AND more elaborately made acoustic treatment ETC $$$$$$$ IE: these corporations and banks set everyone up inn this industry to spend spend spend, with a boat load of false science.*
Has it fallen off yet? ...I'd friendly suggest that even using a cheap "strip" or "panel" of MDF or pine as a buffer layer. Mount the "Hanging Arms' of the tray mechanism to that strip/panel ***Using BOLTS*** - instead of two screws each side into the underside of your desks table-top. Then, wood glue and screw through the panel, joining the panel itself to the underside of the table-top, using as many screws as you like 'til you feel comfortable it's sturdy enough. Idk... I would feel confident slamming out Beethoven's No.5 with just 2 vertical screws either side lol
Hey, congrats on the house! Toronto real estate is absolutely insane! 😅 Have you decided on whether you’re putting the new setup in an accessory building like a garage, or a room in the house? Still debating this question on my end even though I’m a long way out from moving/upgrading spaces.
Thanks! The new studio is going to be in the basement because the room measurements turned out to work with a studio build. Definitely the dream one day is to have a separate building in the backyard!
I need to make a playlist on Spotify/Apple Music of the music I've recorded, produced, mixed, mastered for others. My own music is coming soon this year
Great set up. I just finished my small DAW studio and posted a short. You are way ahead of me, but it's great having a custom/personalized space to work in.
I love the PHA-4 action of my Roland RD-800 not the newest model so it won’t break your bank either. What is extra nice if you happen to use Keyscape, is that keyscape has a rd-800 velocity curve built in. Also if you happen to love the UVI ravenscroft 275 like I do. That might one plays amazingly right out of the box icw this keybed. Highly recommended!
@@Semyon_Music top notch! Just make sure you get the PHA-4 Concert version and not the normal. It’s on par with Kawai’s top of the line keybeds and personally I like em way more than any piano Fatar keybed.
@@Semyon_Music they don't make their own drivers. At least not when I investigate this model. They are using what look like 35 dollar 4" Dayton reference aluminum cone drivers (not a well dampened material) with phase pole and what looks like 20 dollar mediocre bright sounding Peerless ring radiator tweeter that I don't like the sonic effects of and they are anything but clinical reference. The box is only 35 pounds which to me is a joke for a monitor that costs 5G. That 35 pounds includes all the drivers and subs, the cabnet and the tri-amplifier and processor made by Hypex. Hypex does good work. They also make the plate amps and processors in other brands and various other monitors that are whey cheaper. The dual firing woofer are a gimmicky way to get "fuller" bass, the woofer is spaced too far from the tweeter for near field, there is no waveguide for the tweeter to address baffle diffraction. A 4 inch woofer will not have a satisfying midrange as many are complaining about. They say they simulate other monitors and they say they do it without EQ but by changing the crossover settings in the active network. Thats still an EQ change because of FIR filter adjustment. Thats a very artificial thing to do with a speaker because it alters its flattest timbre it was designed for after its already supposed to be engineered for one FIR filter setting for its flattest setting so all the other modes other than flat mode on a Barefoot are a gimmick. Adam gets monitors with FIR filters specifically engineered at one setting for their models which are calibrated and engineered in a very specific way in an anechoic facility in germany. Adam audio manufactures their own drivers, their own woofers, their own dome woofers, and their own state of the art ribbon tweeters designed for extended periods of listening to avoid ear fatigue while having a very natural sound that's open and detailed colored grain-free sound because of how it moves air and is not contrived by the effect of what radiator ring tweeters to do crush and distort air. I find the sound of even my entry level T-series Adams to be much better than Barefoot. I also own the A7V which to me sounds light year better. I would like to own the A8H and also some S series models and their 2100 sub. That stuff is on another level.
@roderickmims4802 I don’t because there is enough acoustic treatment in the room where there are basically no reflections. I just use a pop filter on the mix. Reflection shields sometimes create more problems but amplifying unwanted frequencies so it’s better to just have a treated room
@@Semyon_Music Ahh I'm asking because I have GIK acoustic panel as well and I'm having low end or boxy like effect in my room. James said it might becoming from my ceiling since I don't have much up there and I cant fit all of my panel on the corner either. Do you record right under one of your traps on the ceiling?
@roderickmims4802 definitely you need lots of coverage on the ceiling. I have four 6 inch thick panels on the ceiling and that fixed my boxy low end problem. Specifically, the A note frequency was so amplified without the ceiling clouds
It is the output of the headphone cue. On my Apollo x4, I have 2 headphone outputs so Cue 1 and Cue 2. I can choose what mix is played through each cue
I’ve had the KRK’s for as long as I can remember but I think it’s time for an upgrade. I’m thinking about getting the new footprint03. I’m here for research purposes right now lol
Haven’t heard the FP03 in person, but they have a ported design. FP02 and FP01 are not ported. If you have the budget, I’d recommend the FP02s or FP01s!
I didn't, but I based my decision based on my current room size and future room size. I'd say if you have a 10x8 room or bigger, fully acoustically treated with panels, go for the 01s
oof soldering not optimal at all, i solder for work so this was bit painful to watch hah, your tip is wrong, wires too long, iron def too long on contacts because of poor tip choice and not wetting the tip more prior to soldering
Didn’t claim I was a professional soldering expert! Just a music producer showing others what I know about making cables at home. The cables have held up so far!
@@Semyon_Music as i wrote, tip choice is bad, in fact cone tip which comes default with almost everything is one of least useful tip shapes and i never use it. for most things including cables i prefer C or cf series tip, which is super easy to keep clean and has large flat contact area, holds a lot of solder exactly where you need it. Second thing when you want to solder(heat) a joint tip has to have some solder on it to make proper contact, and using even more when joint is tough and will wick solder away to prevent iron tip from loosing proper contact. You used cone tip (B series) which never has solder where you need so what happened in the video is quite expected. also, i prefer to have least amount of stipped wire in the connectors, because some connectors have to be made that way or cable wont fix in locking mechanism
Thank you! How can I track wet(processed) and dry vocal signals using UAD Apollo? Is there a way to just soft patch it or do I need to Line Out/Physical patch or maybe use a splitter on the way in?
@@Semyon_Music Thank you for your response. I want to simultaneously record two signals in my DAW Logic. 1. Processed with UAD Unison + Inserts (wet), 2.Unprocessed signal going only through Unison Preamp and nothing else (dry). Nothing to do with verbs. The unprocessed signal is for safety only so that I may be able to change it later if required. I was wondering if there is a way to record them both by just soft patching within UAD console or maybe a physical patch. I am new to the UAD world. Thank you for the help. :) P.s I do have an RME Fireface as well but want to use the unison preamps.
