This is great thanks. I'm going to try this for my 207. The switch has acyually come off and has been loose for a couple of years. Can I ask you what you did clean it with though please. What is wet and dry ? Many thanks
I used contact cleaner to clean, but you can use iso propanol (rubbing Alcohol) The idea is to remove film that builds up on the switch contact surface and electrically insulates it stopping it from working. Wet and dry is a fine sanding paper which can be used with or without fluid. Some times there is green corrosion which requires wet and dry to cut through the corrosion. Good luck with your repair.
@@bunnybr Just wanted to say also that the switch that you press is totally broken so comes off so I think it may be this that it’s not connecting properly ? But a good clean wont to any harm to try I think Thanks again 😀
Good work and very high workmanship. My observation is that you do not use a dynamometric key when closing the two nuts, for a wonderful and final lock.
I very rarely find that the nuts don't fully tighten up when fitting a new link. The only exception is when reusing a used one where the ball and socket are a little looser and need to be held. I learn a lot from the feed back. Thanks for your comments.
@@bunnybr I am very grateful to you for accepting my simple comment, but it has a greater impact. I learned from the ancient Mechanists to use a dynamometer key to press the nuts that have to do with either the engine or the chassis of the car, because Thitng is the step that must be relied upon.
The problem with the paking brake shoes on XC90s of this vintage is the flat H piece which means the shoes can't be adjusted. Not a problem with original Vovo parts but with aftermarket parts it becomes a problem. The fix is to replace them with adjustable ones. I did this on my own 2003 XC90. Suitable genuine parts can be found in the Volvo 850 parts bin. I bought aftermarket ones on eBay. This means that the shoes can be adjusted resulting in a parking brake that actually holds.
My micra k12 has the following problem, it works also at 0, but at low speed. Is the resistor faulty? Or do i need to look somewhere else? Thanks in advance
Hello ! Il ne faut oas attendre que des pieces cassent pour faire des nettoyages de boulons ou d'autres pieces qui ont tendances à rouiller... Je possede une 406 hdi 110 de 2002 et en dessous rien est rouillé car je nettoie et passe de la peinture Legé histoire que rien ne rouille 😉
Hello lookng for help finding rear track control arm for 03 406 estate looks a bit lke a banana with a bush at each end passenger side .fixes to subframe and back of hub.about 2 feet long .peugeot number 5175 e9 .fits some citreons i beleive but not sure what exactly any help from any body out there with information regarding the part or any help at all would be gratfully excepted. Realy enjoy your videos😊 thanks in advance. Any body got one please .thanks Ian.
You don't attach the spring compressors on the car, you first remove the strut and THEN attach them so they are exactly opposite balancing each other and have as many coils between the top and bottom as possible. You cannot do this whilst they are still on the car. You can see that the positions of your compressors are not directly opposite each other. What you are doing is highly dangerous. Whilst you are removing or refitting the strut to your car either of those clamps could easily slip potentially jamming your fingers or hitting you in the face. I repeat you do not need to compress the spring to get it out only when you come to undo the top mount nut and separate the top mount from the spring or remove the shock. Rookie error. Also that top mount bearing surface look totally knackered from all the corrosion. A pair of replacement top mount bearings are really not that expensive. Not replacing them is a false economy.
Hice una búsqueda en eBay del émbolo comm 2000 y encontré el artículo que estaba buscando. Tenga cuidado al retirar el émbolo, ya que contiene un resorte y puede salir disparado si no tiene cuidado.
Hello, I have an issue. Do You know which part could be responsible for ABS not working after hitting the steering wheel? It used to spontaneously turn off and then on again, but sensors on wheels and pump is alright, so this is not related to those, just to some stuff around sterring wheel :( I would be grateful if You had any idea what going on. Oh I don't have ESP and a hanbrake light is on as well.
I take it you are talking about anti lock brakes. 406? The usual suspects are cracked abs rings on the front drive shafts or build up of metallic dirt on the sensors. If it has been faulty for a while, it could be the abs module has burnt out. It is easier if you have diagnostic kit as this will quickly narrow down the culprit. I am no expert but I would fix the obvious handbrake switch or handbrake switch wiring issue first before going any further.
Instructions not clear and you failed to mention some key parts, witch made me fail and break the part. The metal "legs" , the tiny ones on the end of stalk, if you bend them just for a little, it's done, you will need a new one as you wont be able to bend it back like it was. The plastic that holds the stalk, if you force it too much, it will not hold the stalk again , it will fall . It doesn't explain the signal canceling , how not to screw that part . Lots of information missing .
Thanks for the video. Note when clipping the case back together wedge the "copper" spring contacts back (eg with Lego blocks) so the two pins on the other (circuit board) side don't go behind the spring contacts.
Thank You So much for posting this Video....No place i called would repair my mini key circuit board.... watching this video allowed me to repair my own..... thank you thank you!!!!!!!!!🎉🎉🎉🎉
I just bought a 2004 Peugeot 406 station-wagon. The horn does not work but the fuses look ok. If I just sand those contacts like you showed, do you think it will work again? Or do you have any helpful tips?
I would check the horn its self first. Disconnect the horn and supply it with 12v see if the horn sounds. Due to the location it can get a lot of corrosion. If it does not sound then the issue is either the steering wheel contacts, fuse or wiring. I have got car envy. I loved my 406 but was persuaded to get a newer 508SW.
All those techniques while a good start failed with both my Brembo caliper pins. Even carefully heating a localized area around the pin did not work. I had a Eureka moment thinking an impact action could break the corrosion and free the pin. I had an air powered high speed impact nailer and applied it to the end of a road positioned on the end of the truncated pin. Ra ta ta ta and out it came. The second equally easy. I could have saved myself hours trying this technique first!!! Jim
Great video simple to follow. I have a 2012 508 estate. With a “knuckle type ball joint” that I am going to attempt to change any info on that. I see most people remove the hub nut and pull out drive shaft but hoping it’s not necessary. Nice video !
Snap. same here. But mine is 2011. I havent done the lower ball joint on its own. I did it as part of changing the clutch. (not an easy job). The lower ball is very easy compared with the 406. It is held on with bolts. I held the top dome with a pair of mole grips and undid the nut underneath. Removing the drive shaft nut and pushing the drive shaft it in slightly, will give you more room to remove the joint and lessen the risk of accidentally pulling the shaft out the gearbox. Good luck.
Thanks for this, my elderly neighbour just came round with his brake lights permanently on. I nearly skipped the last bit, having seen how to get to it, but the cleanup at the end was the icing on the cake, which will save him a few bob. Great video.
Glad it helped. I almost didnt publish the video as I thought it was too simple. How wrong I was. It has been my most popular one. Who doesnt like saving money by doing it yourself.
