How I fit a rear anti roll bar links to my peugeot 406. These links are found in many different cars, so hopefully this will give you some tips on how to do this your self and save a heap of cash as well.
Another useful piece from Gordon. One additional point I can now make is that getting molegrips onto the bottom joint is a lot easier if you loosen and remove the shock absorber from its bottom mounting.
Thank you for this video! Today I successfully changed these anti roll links on my "new" Peugeot 406 Break. I would never make it without your advices and without wise grips! I didn´t know, that this tool even exist! Now it´s time to change rear tracking control arms :-)
HI Gordon - you fixed my window switch on my old 406, and now I'm on to rear anti roll links having just done the fronts. Thank you for such a useful video - it really has given me a steer!
love your video, much better then someone typing what you need to know over the video I find you telling as you go much easier to follow, keep up the good work.
Method numer 4 worked for me yesterday. I just did it and it was pretty difficult. 2 hours of my time. I did cut the rubber part so I could hold it very tight. Thanks for ur efforts. I didn't have to use any iron bar to put it out. I just use the lift to put it up syncro with the hole and it went really easy.
Good work and very high workmanship. My observation is that you do not use a dynamometric key when closing the two nuts, for a wonderful and final lock.
I very rarely find that the nuts don't fully tighten up when fitting a new link. The only exception is when reusing a used one where the ball and socket are a little looser and need to be held. I learn a lot from the feed back. Thanks for your comments.
@@bunnybr I am very grateful to you for accepting my simple comment, but it has a greater impact. I learned from the ancient Mechanists to use a dynamometer key to press the nuts that have to do with either the engine or the chassis of the car, because Thitng is the step that must be relied upon.
I just read on the Honest John site that you can lock the drop link ball joint shaft by jacking the suspension up and putting it under load. I will try that method when I do mine (same side) this week
Just done the front drop links on an old Citroen C5 Mk1. Tried all those methods but the nut had jammed onto the old rusted thread of the ball joint that everything was just chewing up. The final removal method was one you didn't mention.... out came the grinder! Wouldn't have been easy to use a grinder on the drop link you've just replaced.
Hello ! Il ne faut oas attendre que des pieces cassent pour faire des nettoyages de boulons ou d'autres pieces qui ont tendances à rouiller... Je possede une 406 hdi 110 de 2002 et en dessous rien est rouillé car je nettoie et passe de la peinture Legé histoire que rien ne rouille 😉
Pas besoin de démonter l'étrier il suffit de couper l'ancienne biellette avec un burin plat ou tournevis puis le bloquer avec une pince étau pour pour le dévisser
@@bunnybr de rien pour celles en plastique un bon burin plat coupant ou un tournevis. Moi je coupe le caoutchouc 4 ou 5 coup de marteaux et ça ce déboite . Pour éviter trop de démontage
I hate this rear anti roll bars. The engineer who made this was not very smart at all. I would make a better conection so it can be remove easy. I've got the same trouble but I used an old school method.
