If my machine man doesnt like doing throat cut. Just the angles... Can I get to the 90% with my die grinder using templates? Any recommendations? For the exhaust seat with 86% I had to grind a lot ...is that ok?
LS engines are notorious for windage problems, with the cross bolt main cap design. And the skirted black with the crank tucked so fare up into the crank case it makes it very difficult to run any kind of decent crank scraper. imagine a haze of oil wrapped around the crankshaft even at lower RPMs. and the pistons going up and down oil’s gotta go somewhere.
I just did the comp cams pushrod length check on mine. Ls7 lifters with a Howard’s rattler cam. The 7.400 was a bit long and held the intake and exhaust valves open. Motor tan but was rich as hell. I swapped to the 7.350 and the valves are now closing all the way
Using lock tight on the cover bolts is pointless at this point. Or do people no longer install the pump housing with shims around the gear to keep it centered?
It’s definitely recommended to align the pump gears with shims before tightening the housing but very few people actually do it. I did the feeler gauge method on my 4.8 turbo build. 👍
Ya i am seeing this video again 3 years later but a resistor doesn't realy change voltage it limits current and if the current is high the voltage will drop but going with a set voltage isn't really the play i am sure you could use an arduino to check the voltage and very the voltage to the alternator for the load but a set voltage probably isn't the answer
I rebuilt a 400 and it would not move the car hardly at all. Totally kicked my ass. Pulled the governor out and the spool was stuck!!!! A piece of that filter had got in there and caused this problem!! SOB!
You got me working on some 862s. Been watching your vids for some time now. Only thing I’m hung up on now is valve lengths. Wanted to order some 2.00 intake valves and standard exhaust but noticed the different lengths in the aftermarket intake and exhaust valves. Kind of don’t want to use different size pushrods but what is your take on that?
It depends on your application, I now know not to trust the entry level stainless steel valves with boost after seeing Ryan’s Ranger killed a set. I guess I’ve never worried about the stem lengths, most manufacturers only offer a few lengths for the LS heads. Try to get a stem length equal to or slightly longer than the factory length so you can shim to achieve the proper install height for the valve springs. Most valves only vary maybe .015”-.020” between the different manufacturers. I highly recommend setting your lifter preload by verifying the needed pushrod length. Manufacturing variances in cam base circle and pushrod cup depth in the lifters can change pushrod length. I have a video on my channel on setting pushrod length using the adjustable pushrod tool. JD
@@HeadFlowInc thanks for your input. I'm definitely curious about the stainless situation as that was my plan with the next set of 862s on a turbo 5.3 that I'll be doing after this NA 6.0 build. But yes I just literally dug out my stock valves and they are reading 4.869 intake and 4.920 ex. My old exhaust values are pitted kind of bad in my opinion and was looking to step up to an 2.00 intake valve with a valve job. Didn't want to buy pushrods yet cause I'm not sure if my machine guy is gonna want to surface them in addition to running a .041 head gasket. And yes I watched your vid on finding pushrod length. I can't wait to send the heads off to the machine shop so I can finish porting and chamber mods. Again thank you for your input and vids. They have helped and encouraged me quite a bit
No just bash them properly please. The best Pontiac Heads are the Ram Air 5 Heads from DCI in the USA . As cast thow Flow big numbers. There are some billet heads being built but as we all know they are big $$$$$
I haven’t put it on real scales yet to get the front/rear bias. I removed all the interior except the dash, door panels and factory rubber mat on the floor. W/interior it weighed 3500# with driver 240#; after weight loss and turbo install etc I’m hoping to see +- 3200# with driver.
I Taylor the cam to the vehicle, are you automatic/Stick and what rear gears? I don’t over cam engines, I set them up to make the most average HP/TQ because it makes them run faster.
@@HeadFlowInc Thats why you are perfect person to ask everybody says 108 lsa but respond 0 to more air and just how every thing works together then they run out of power but insist on standing on it its like a freind tryed to race me with 300 horse turbo to make it even and not blow him away I kept it under 2500 rpm so it would be good race lol He made me Burst his bubble later
I haven’t tried straight e85 yet. The only part of the fuel system not e85 rated was the 2” hose between the pump and hangar assembly. It should be safe for e85 now but it’s time to upgrade the lines again. JD
Which heads do you want numbers on? I have flow data available on several of my ports including the Max effort 1.89”/1.55” 862’s with a 208cc port. I’m open to compare anytime.
I use Clark Riddle Flowbench testing for my flow data. Flow bench data and proof through both track testing and chassis dyno’s. Yes I know what I’m doing. 👍
About 45 or 50 years ago we used to call that a 3 to 5 angle cut on the valves. Add on the face of the valve, if you left the valve absolutely flat you wouldn't be taking out compression ratio which you lose as much as you're gaining in flow rate. Why are you taking out compression ratio for the sake of hoping you're getting a little bit better flow rate? And you will get better flow out of three angle valve job, you'll get better flow if you change your entire valve angle to 30° then you will leaving it at 45 degrees
Not factual wives tail. You only gain/loss +- 4% power/torque for a FULL number of compression; ie 9.0-1 to 10.0-1 I guarantee you would never see the difference in power from cutting the edges of the valves from lost compression, that is simply false. But picking up 3-5 cfm will show a change. JD
Using the M295HV on a fresh rebuilt engine with DOD/AFM the engine showed as low as 5psi oil pressure in idle. Some glitter was observed on the oil. The person who rebuilt the engine did not aligned the pump properly and there was visible wear on the gears. The pump was replaced with another M295HV which was aligned properly, however the idle oil pressure is still around 5psi at stable operating temperature. Is the M295HV not the adequate pump for 5.3 Gen4 engine with DOD/AFM?
These people crying about a head that is less than half the cost of American head and the difference it’s so little hp different it probably all but nothing
Dang heart issues, I think we’ve got it figured out with meds and diet. We had a short move only 1 block away, but moving always sucks. 😇 Thanks for the support!!! 👍
Always load test power and ground when checking for a control voltage. In this case, you may have had voltage ant it may have been able to light a test light. But it wouldn't power a fuel pump. I like to test with a head lamp that draws 4 amps to verify circuit integrity
I tried testing everything I could think of. Voltage, ohms, continuity eventually swapped fuel pumps. I found a melted pin in the hangar connector, bypassed it still no pump. I started testing w/ auxiliary power/ground finally figured it out. The new 535lph pump is making 70-75 psi causing the tune to be pretty rich but it’s running again! 👍👍
Here’s the deal. Wire the L to a 47 ohm resistor then to keyed 12v. F to 12v switched. S to the positive battery terminal. S terminal senses the voltage drop. Especially needed when the battery is moved to the rear of the vehicle. I’m getting 14.3 volts now at idle with the S terminal hooked up to the battery terminal. Without it the voltage drops to 13.9.
The rocker bolt bulge that has been removed leaving the hole. Can it be plugged with JB Weld, and ground to shape to smooth the port further, while also sealing the possibility of leak
The oem rocker bolt will seal the hole w/ thread sealer and protrude slightly into the port unless you trim/cut the tip down accordingly. If you fill the hole the bolt won’t seat properly and/or it could push through clearing the hole or damage threads trying. JD
@@HeadFlowInc thanks bud. Looking at starting a build here in New Zealand. Importing parts isn't cheap. So researching what it is I can do at home myself. 2004 Holden Commodore HSV Clubsport sedan 6Sp manual. LS1 with LS6 intake and headers at this stage stock as it left Ozzy. Looking at plane and port heads, 383 stroker kit, redux ITB's. Once the heads are done and flowed, I'll know what to get as a Cam. Looking mainly for improved torque low to mid range. It's not a race car, but getting tired with close to 300,000 Kms on it.
Adding more strokes will definitely make it have good torque. Like you mentioned the key is not over camming it so you don’t lose power down low to gain it up high. Good luck it sounds like a strong build! 👍
