Welcome to N-Power Automotive! Over the past 30 years, I've owned a variety of cars, all with their unique qualities and quirks. I started this channel with a simple sound comparison of a Honda Accord before and after an intake, which is still one of my most viewed videos. Since then, I've owned four different cars; a 2006 MazdaSpeed6, a 2009 Dodge Charger R/T, a 2021 Honda Accord Sport 2.0T, and currently a 2022 Hyundai Elantra N.
I'm a huge fan of what Hyundai has done with the N brand! Since I've had a resurgence of content creation based around my Elantra N, I decided to update my channel from what was previously known as 169 Design to N-Power Automotive.
Stay tuned for performance part installations, backroad driving POVs, and honest ownership experience. Thanks for coming to N-Power Automotive -- I hope you enjoy the content. And please, like and subscribe!
I’m very tempted to replace my WRX with a 24’ N. I’ll admit that I’m always ready for something to break. Nothing major has failed but I’ve replaced the neutral switch twice under warranty and had a check engine light for timing issue. The latest issue is TPMS failure.
@N-Power Automotive Have you had the car “forget” the octane learning? In other words, you successfully octane-learned the ECU and we’re achieving 18-19 lbs boost, and then, after turning the car off going to drive it again, boost was being limited to 15-16 psi? This just happened with my car. Filled up Saturday night on way home after using all the dealer-supplied fuel, with which I was getting full boost. Drove the car to work the next day, successfully octane-learned it on the way to work with the 70+ MPH cruise control method (was getting full boost on way home from work). Fast forward to today, I take the N out to hit some backroads around here and it’s limiting boost to 15-16 psi. Tried getting out on I-40 and setting cruise control to above 70 mph for 5 minutes. Didn’t work. Tried again for another 5 minutes. Still didn’t work. It must require longer than five minutes. The way the owners manual is worded, it actually does sort of say five minutes would be the minimum. I do wonder if the conditions in which I was driving today factored in and the ECU limited boost. It would be cool to talk with the engineer who designed the system to get a better understanding of how it works.
@@johnmpifer I’ve never noticed that happening, but it’s possible I haven’t paid that much attention to it. Also, keep in mind the turbo boost can vary depending on temp/humidity, so maybe it was cooler the night you octane learned making the full boost, but hotter the next day so it pulled some. Just a guess.
@@n-power-automotiveThat’s definitely possible, depending on how the system works. It was probably about 75° when I did the octane learning, and then yesterday when I went out to hit some backroads, it was over 90°. However, it was also over 90° when I drove home the afternoon after I did the octane learning, so IDK.
😅😅😅 Yup I did what you did the first time. I ran out of daylight so I didn't try messing with it after lol. You are doing a great service to the en community. Thank you for the video. Do they have a trunk one? I have the Amazon one. But didn't install it yet.
@@stefanb974 I figured ha ha! Easy mistake obviously. I’m not sure on the trunk. I’ll have to ask. I know I’ve seen some before either on Amazon or eBay, not Torcon branded though.
It's a cool upgrade for sure. Wish our car had more aftermarket options, I feel like companies were pumping things out and now its been slow with new items. I am bit OCD and the fact that a pop rod allows me to close the hood with my hands underneath vs pushing down the hood with hands on top, eliminates fingerprints so I'll be sticking with the old fashioned method.
@@DerekFuller I actually prefer “soft closing” the hood. I’ve heard it’s bad to let the hood slam when the hood sits right over the headlights. I’ll take fingerprints over possibly cracking the headlights, though I’m sure it’s unlikely it’d happen.
I need to purchase these hood struts! Question how do you keep your engine bay clean? In ALL my previous vehicles I would just cover the intake filter spray some Degreaser and go to town with the water hose sprayer. I'm afraid to do that with the N because of the knock sensor issues
@@luisarreguin2202 I just wipe it down with a microfiber and Simple Green after each oil change. I’ve never been a fan of using a water hose on any car to be honest. I know people do it and don’t have problems, it’s just not for me.
They look great! I have ones from Amazon that work well but the driver's side strut sits on the ECU when the hood is closed so the hood sits a little higher on that side. I might have to swap them out for these.
I’m in a rental rn, “n-line” whatever the fuck that is. It’s nice driving, I hate the transmission, dogshit rpm at 90 mph and I don’t think I’d like to ever by Korean because I’m one to put miles on the car, maintain it, and expect it to last as long as I want it without issues.
I agree. The factory hoods are silly heavy. Even on my 2024 Hyundai Elantra N. I am surprised how heavy it is each time I open it. The headlights are completely different on the 2024 Hyundai Elantra N. They don't sweep back as high or as far back as the earlier ones. So those bolt holes are not there on the 2024 A carbon fiber or even an aluminum hood would probably save 20 plus lbs alone.
@@AmarendraD 👋🏻 As far as I can tell the intake is no longer rubbing. I have not yet wrapped the intake with gold tape. I’m still trying to decide if I’m going to do it or not. The filter does not rub against the headliner, but it does make contact with the back of the plastic that the ECU plugs into. The foam filer has a lot of flex though, so I’m not too worried about it.
@@n-power-automotive Awesome, thank you!! I have mine on order and will be following your tip of bending the bracket. Also, it looks like the filter is rubbing on the liner for 24 models.
We thought it was a piece on the side of the HPFP getting replaced, along with ecu up date🤔 I'm wondering if I'll be able to try my OTS Tuned Stage 1 ecu once this is done, maybe the tune brought out the worse in my stock HPFP 🤷♂️
I bought those same hood struts. They did not fit. Didn't clear the strut tower. So I couldn't close the hood. I'm curious and looking forward to your video. Maybe I did something wrong.
The hpfp was always a known issue, even back when I had 2021 VN. When I got my veloster N, the first thing I did is swapped the oem hpfp for sonata n line hpfp. Never had any issues
@@i.d.6492 yeah I know they’re the same engine other than the EN/KN having a larger turbo, but I didn’t realize the fuel pumps had problems back with the Veloster, too. I thought maybe it was a manufacturing issue that started with the EN/KN.
@@franckbouvier3789 That’s a tough call. The BOV shouldn’t have any effect on the fueling system, but some service departments will give you a hard time because of mods. So it’s really up to how comfortable you are with your service department. By law they can’t deny warranty work unless they can prove the modification caused the issue. I’m willing to bet they wouldn’t be as harsh with recall work, but that’s just an assumption.
@@n-power-automotive Believe me, unless you blew up your engine with the mods, they'll throw on any parts as warranty as long as u complain about it. Lol.
Had this happen on my 2021 non-tuned Veloster N, lost power (cutting/stuttering, never shut off though) and had to stay low revs till I could get home.
I have the upgraded Sonata HPFP on my stock tuned Elantra N with all bolt ons, and have no issues. I've heard from many sources that upgrading the fuel pump even on a stock tune is a good idea. Very easy install too.
Was at the dealer on Saturday with the Kona N and the service manager said Hyundai looked at a few hundred cars and had no problems in North America so far but they said they would keep me updated. I thought about going all tuned I said the heck with it I'm thinking of just going with the race chip and just enjoying driving the car.
77,000km and 2 years with my 2022 elantra N(6 speed) and i jave the front sensor thing. It has not an active exhaust rattle but i metal squeek. But my biggest ossues and its been like it since day 1 is bad batteries. If i have tje car on but not running the battery will die is 30 minutes
what a dumb move!!! Honda is so much better than Hyundai!I love my 2018 accord! and i love my 1999 honda accord that got us way over 335,000 miles on it!
Just bought a Honda Accord Sport 2.0T after 3 years of leasing (only 7k miles on it), I have had no issues with the entertainment panel. no black screens or shut downs. The remote start up has work flawlessly for 3 years in 120 degree hot summers! Also the seats, no issues, I am a big guy at 280 lb and it is very comfortable, roomy and lots of space for me. I think you had a Lemon my dude.
Look. The sound nobody today can beat sound of N performance and lotus emira AMG engine automatic best sound top is lotus sec Elantra for stock last alpine cool sound for stock
Thanks for the video! Well-documented. I have a 24 MT with about 1,900mi and no issues so far other than the collision warning thing.. but that’s modern cars for ya. A few theories about the knock sensor: 1. Water proofing on the connector probably isn’t great. I’m a big fan of my local touchless wash for getting the bird poop/pollen off the car in between hand washes. Do you think it’s a good idea to maybe wrap the connector for the sensor in shrink wrap and automotive tape? 2. Maybe the sensor also freaks out when it’s wet because the presence of water changes the tone of the audio it’s listening to? Knock sensors are just microphones and the ECU is expecting to hear noise at a certain Hz range. Imagine listening to music when you’re underwater in a pool.. almost impossible and can’t hear much detail, not to mention the change in pitch and frequency. Wonder if that has anything to do with it..
