In 1981, Tom Lie-Nielsen started making one tool in an old farm shed.
Today, we are proud to continue the tradition of "Made in America" with a team of 65 craftspeople devoted to designing and creating tools of the finest quality, functionality and beauty. We make a wide variety of planes, chisels, spokeshaves, saws, and workbenches in our 30,000 square feet of shop space in mid-coast Maine.
Our first priority is quality. Instead of out-sourcing all our jobs for the cheapest price and short term profit, we are stubbornly local. We have found that the best quality is right here in Maine. We source our metal castings from New England foundries, our wood from Maine sawyers, and make almost everything else at our shop in Warren.
We also teach the craft of woodworking through our instructional DVDs, RU-vid videos, and seasonal weekend workshops. Our showroom is open to the public for hands on demonstrations.
I saw one on his site that he built last year before he retired. I wish i would have bought it but now ill have to buy this dvd and make it out of cherry
So much control and clarity of reasoning applied to, what was,a mysterious art for a beginner sharpener of bulky Japanese framing chisels. Definitely will follow Derek’s guidelines. Thank you so much from U.K.
its for playing and its DNA is not rooted in furniture building its for example a typical floor board connection, then with one important difference , the tongue ore one of the necks is shorter so its guaranteed to get em together . Here You have three contact points all same lengths ;-) Just think about that fact... it makes sense in a non glued filling of a frame where you want massive woods movable with change of humidity , but who in that dimensions does this ? Except for fun ore education on small demo pieces . Would buy it either ;-)
Wow ive never seen a company say: Hey heres a product we make that wont work and if you dont make it better then we did you'll end up with a skewed ass useless blade. Please give us your money🙏
Try a new trick with a thin ruler under the Chisel .Lay the chisel ---along ---the diamond plate full length with the ruler under the handle end. That will polish the edge with a minute bevel. In the video you rub the end of the blade on a white stone and that stone is Rocking !!! So you get a reverse bevel without realising . After a long time you will get a steadily worse angle using fancy water stones even though you keep making the stones flat . The whole shiny back surface is totally unnecessary . Try this ruler trick on old Sheffield blades .
My lie Neilson scrub plane developed a small circular rust spot on the bottom just in front of the blade. I cleaned it but keep an eye on it doesn’t return.
Mr. Underhill is an American Treasure. In all of the videos & TV shows I have watched that he has hosted, I ALWAYS leave with a very positive heart and a big smile. He is the real deal. Such a precious commodity in today's world! Sharp tools, sharp minds and a genuine smile...Kudos, Mr. Underhill for your contributions to mankind. Thank you and, Bless you
Agree. I am recently fully retired nearing 72 and just now finishing a woodworking bench build while purchasing a variety of woodworking power tools. I come across this vid and now wish I had time to learn the old woodworking methods as such. It's getting more and more rare to come across these days. I hope Mr Underhill is passing it along to someone near and dear to him.
Thank you sir. Your lessons on reestablishing primary bevel in case of a nick on blade's edge and secondary bevel's surface area becoming too large and backlash (other video) opened my mind to a new world of hand planing. Now I'm enjoying the challenges of hand planing everyday.
I inherited the equipment belonging to my great great grandfather, who was a master carpenter. I've been very careful to make sure that his equipment has been cared for. Surprisingly, he did not own many planes. This was because there was a job back in the 1800s that doesn't exist now. According to his journals, these men were called lumberers, and it was their job to straighten boards after they had been cut and seasoned at the sawmill. That way, carpenters could generally rely on stock they ordered to be straight; no bows, bends, or twists. And one of the primary tools they used to do this was also called a scrub plane, though it's unclear if this the same tool that carpenters employed. The description for lumbering scrub planes was a plane with a relatively narrow but thick iron which provided plenty of room to the sides and front of the mouth for chips and large curls to fly. One particular aspect of them is that the mouth of the sole as well as the iron were curved. This was to allow one line of cleaned would to smooth into the other since the scrub plane was pushed diagonally across the grain of the woodrather than with it or directly across it. I was able to track down the history of each of his planes, in the model constructed back in the 1880s was listed as a scrub plane. But it did not fit the description, as the mouth was not much wider than the iron, and both were completely straight. I've been trying to look for a lumberer's scrub plane for years, and this plane is, frankly, the closest that fits the description I could find. So, is this particular iron capable of reshaping a twisted board, as well as taking out bows and bends. These planes were relatively long so that the sole would run flat quickly once the problem had been worked out. I don't mean something as long as a Stanley #7, but a 10-12 inch sole, a wide and curved mouth with lots of room for large chips, and a narrow and curved but extremely hardy iron for overpowering poorly shaped lumber is essential. Would you say this plane is capable of that kind of work on rough-cut and misshapen lumber? If not, what would?
Impressive high end tools those are,however i have nevver seen such disregard for worker safety,and not just the metal pouring guys,who are getting their retinas cooked ,the guys making the molds are literally dumping sand inches from their face,the guy sanding the handles....i mean have this people never heard of PPE? with all the money they make they should at least give those men some respirators
I believe him when he says the tapered version performs better, but the reasons he gives came out as BS (specially at 4:11), the thinner blade and smaller kerf are probably making all the difference. If you want to try tapered, just tilt the regular version and be done with it.
