I own three Lie-Nielsen saws as well as many planes, spokeshaves, etc.,and find them a pleasure to use and very high quality. In my early years of woodworking finding quality traditional tools was difficult if not impossible for me. When Lie-Nielsen tools began appearing on the market my feeling was that no one in their right mind would pay that much for the tool........until I tried them for myself. Now I will not buy anything other than Lie -Nielsen when they offer a tool that I need. I greatly appreciate the contribution that the company has made to the resurgence of interest in traditional woodworking and their focus on quality and refinement of design. It is my belief that without their commitment to the cause, many of the traditional tools we can now buy new would have been lost to future generations of woodworkers. I just purchased a tapered tenon saw to give as a gift to my son and I look forward to discussing with him his take on whether tapered or not tapered is better. This video may be viewed as marketing on the part of Lie-Nielsen, but I say thats great. Keep marketing and keep up the good work!
For me the tapered saw’s have been a huge benefit, but not for any reason given here. Cutting past the line is a user error and not enough time with the tool, personally I don’t think it cuts any better either. But after having my wrist and hand held together with plates and screws. I was struggling with my standard saws to get everything lined up with my wrist and elbow. But just that slight taper has made a world of difference and compensates for the fused wrist. So for me the tapered actually feels like a non tapered saw did before my accident.
Just in case you're wondering, these tapered saws are for all you blokes who don't want to learn to keep the saw teeth parallel to the ground. It's like having training wheels permanently welded to your bike.
Agree thin saw plate is good but that then brings you to Japanese pull saws which I definitely prefer. Pull allows the plate to be very thin but still rigid even without a stiffening edge
Just one question, what is that cabinet on the left side nere the window its sitting in the corner. I would love to see any picks. Or know more about it. thanks for the upload
The moment where he "accidentally" saws past the line was a bit infomercially, in my opinion, but I think I get it. I think any skilled sawer could just compensate using a straight plate saw without doing the head bob thing, but I'm not very skilled so sign me up!
I do not understand why you need a taper, i have been using a normal parallel tennon saw and dovetail saw for 30 years and I never cut past the line, in fact I know exactly when to stop no matter the saw I'm using. I think the argument for a taper is incidental and unfortunately shown here as a gimmick, it's more a preference than need. Good joinery comes with practice and good informed teaching. I own Lee neilson tools and enjoy using them, it's a bit disappointing when a well made product is pushed as the be all and end all tool that you can't make mistakes with, tell us why you think it's better not as a gimmick, the tool should sell itself if it's up to the job.
Im afraid lie nielsen have unfortunately got the main reason for the taper wrong. If you go back to early English saw making, the reason for the taper is so the teeth at the front of the saw provide a slight cut for the next tooth, and for the next and so on. The fact that you may not cut past the line facing away from you is just a positive bi product of this design
How is tapering the heel to toe effectively different that progressively offsetting the teeth? You say it blows out less wood, but why? Also, I don't understand why you have to watch over your piece with a flat plate saw but not tapered. Does the saw magically know where to cut? Tip: for a very clean cutting progressive teeth offset, set all teeth to desired offset. Then sand the teeth (with very fine grit on hard flat block), parallel with the plate, creating the desired taper progression. Touch up teeth with super fine diamond if needed. This is a much more flexible geometry. Disclaimer: It will not automatically make perfect cuts like a Lie Nielson. User skill required
If you are parallel to the floor and your piece is too, w/ a normal saw, you should reach the front base line exactly at the same time as the back one. Lie Nielsen seems to create the issue just to make an over priced product to solve it. To all their own I suppose.
@@moes2168 LN is very high quality materials, excellent fit and finish and made in the USA. You can certainly buy a cheaper saw, but in the world of $200-$300 for a hand saw, $125 for a dovetail saw is pretty fair.
You do make Beautiful tools but being disabled there way out of my budget being a more hobby woodworker. Love the videos as they do help me with new ideas on how to do some woodworking. Peter G.
I believe him when he says the tapered version performs better, but the reasons he gives came out as BS (specially at 4:11), the thinner blade and smaller kerf are probably making all the difference. If you want to try tapered, just tilt the regular version and be done with it.
yah, I was worried about that too -- especially since my LN bench was arriving in a few days. But, I put mine together today and it's solid as a rock -- no movement at all. My best guess is that the bench used in the video was a temporary thing for the shoot and they didn't tighten the fasteners completely -- but still, that's not a good way to promote your product.
Am i the only one bothered by the fact that the piece of wood in the vise is not plumb? I could hardly pay attention to the video because the whole time i was hoping he would notice it and correct it.
"...far out perform the old materials of the past." Really? In what way? The Record still looks perfectly usable and is, how old? Nice new long saw ;) I've seen old, tapered tenon saws but figured that was a defect and/or consequence of poor alignment during sharpening. I have a very old, well used, 22" long vintage English saw what has been sharpened on a significant concave curve - apparently the front has been used much more that the back end!
Incredible how much you can complicate something that is in essence verry simple. Just for marketing reasons. It makes me sick how beginners and amateurs are misled into thinking that you need something special and expensive to do a simple sawcut..
These are superb tools. One must handle them to understand.. I"ve never had a single LN tool that was anything but top drawer. Expensive? Yes but well worth the money. Top craftsman don't used junkyard quality tools. For the critics, I would say they either don't understand the reason and benefit of quality tools, or they understand the price of everything and the value of nothing.
Basically saying "screw you" to everyone who bought a standard Lie Nielsen saw for a buttload of money in the past, when those were praised as the best saws possible.
Sadly Lie-Neilson has resorted to falsehoods to sell their tools, which is idiotic because they got where they are by selling great tools, I am beginning to suspect this company of foul play. Say it isn't so.
Grab Mint I hear no disingenuous elements....in fact quite the opposite. This man sounds passionate about his company, product, and patrons. Perhaps provide something more useful to all of us viewers rather than a negatively charged comment. Like an opinion about tapered saws, not the man trying to educate you about them. Best wishes!
