Just a guy creating content based around diesel trucks, fast cars, and dirt bikes along with installs, how to’s, reviews, purchases and much more. Hit that subscribe button to follow along!
great job showing what should be done just one thing the adjustments that you are calling camber adjustment is actually for the caster, straight axle ram does not have a cam adjuster for the camber. no worries it can be confusing
There are only two types of adhesives: 1) Those which have failed and 2) those which will fail. This spray stuff is a legitimate tool for securing the batts in place, but they shouldn't be relied as a permanent means of fixing them to the structure. Personally, I'd use this method in combination with a thin stud wall. Good video.
Why are there no answers to any questions regarding mold, rust or sweating? I am having one of these put up and I know they condensate, so I am looking for the best way to insulate that doesn't cost a fortune.
From experience with my own shop here in South Georgia, not worried so much with cold but triple digit temps in the summer, insulating that door will be worth every min. spent with it and its cheap and easy
please add plastic as a vapor barrier... i think if you are heating and creating moisture that will be important to keep that fiberglass from mold. Also... for a garage, I'd use OSB for walls as it is so easy to hang all kinds of stuff on wood ... also if you need to get in the wall... a few screws and you can remove a sheet easily.
Retired drywall man here.Please wait on putting anything over the insulation . The moisture off the metal will soak the insulation. If you add drywall over the insulation you will have double trouble. Before you add any covering plywood / chipboard or drywall you will need deadwood blocking in most of the area's in the corner's and around the ceiling. You will need to run 1 by 4 wood strip's over the metal before you can do anything. The 4 by 8 insulation panel's 3 in thick is what you needed but I understand trying to insulate on the cheaper side. They also make a insulation made just for building like your's. Not trying to be a downer because it look's nice but please wait on covering the walls for a little bit. It may save you a ton of work and money in the long run.
I got a question for you sir, does the same technique that you suggested apply to the inside of the metal roof in the garage? I just got a metal garage and trying to find what works and most importantly what lasts. I like his idea but after reading your post I'm a little hesitant. Thanks in advance
Didn’t take my big truck out in the snow or salt why have a truck and treat it like a classic car makes 0 ficking sense I have a sierra denali ultimate and I take it off-road and work it like a real truck
How in the world is this right right way? I've never seen the 'right way' including a 2-ton jackstand on top of wooden blocks. You're lucky this didn't fall and you are giving the rest of the half-wits a bad idea on what to do.
@ndfarmbros I went with 33's on my 22x12's but I think I could have snuck 35's under it. Maybe would just have to do a tad bit of trimming on the inner fender well
You really need to use that faced insulation with that poly factory laminated poly fibers vapor retarder instead of it being exposed to that cardboard paper stuff
I installed the rough country 2.5 yesterday. I had to cut off the rubber tab on the rubber spacer for the passenger side. Also, the shock extenders were both too narrow to receive the shocks. I had to take two metal rods and bend the ears out. My advice to others is, marc the positions of your springs and put them back exactly where they were regardless what the instructions say. at the end of 4 hours, looks really good.
