OP post date 6-Feb-2020. Fast forward to May 2022. Did you find the Super77 held up so far? Have you had any problems with not applying a moisture barrier (double bubble radiant for example) first? Thanks for the time to produce and post this video. Super helpful!
Im in the process of insulating my shop now. Im using just a simple radiant barrier with a lower r-value (I think r9) One side is white the other is reflective. This looks like it worked for you, I was concerned about the moisture barrier.
Yea, I'm doing a install now on mine with foam board .. trying to decide if I need an air gap or can I just glue it flat against the metal sheeting ? Any ideas ?
I was just going to say I haven't noticed if you've looked at your insulation or anything but keep an eye on it because these buildings have a tendency to sweat a lot when it gets hot and cold and I was either told to use a mineral wool insulation or spray foam mineral wool is very highly water repellent they told me if I used regular insulation it was orbit like a sponge and eventually mold mineral will not mold but I was just going to say keep an eye out on it love your videos keep doing them
Retired drywall man here.Please wait on putting anything over the insulation . The moisture off the metal will soak the insulation. If you add drywall over the insulation you will have double trouble. Before you add any covering plywood / chipboard or drywall you will need deadwood blocking in most of the area's in the corner's and around the ceiling. You will need to run 1 by 4 wood strip's over the metal before you can do anything. The 4 by 8 insulation panel's 3 in thick is what you needed but I understand trying to insulate on the cheaper side. They also make a insulation made just for building like your's. Not trying to be a downer because it look's nice but please wait on covering the walls for a little bit. It may save you a ton of work and money in the long run.
I got a question for you sir, does the same technique that you suggested apply to the inside of the metal roof in the garage? I just got a metal garage and trying to find what works and most importantly what lasts. I like his idea but after reading your post I'm a little hesitant. Thanks in advance
To prevent the sweating, you need a moisture barrier on the inside to "completely" prevent any warm air inside from getting through to the cold metal surface. Meaning it has to be totally sealed. The paper moisture barrier isn't enough. If they try to heat it in the winter, it will probably sweat badly. You would need a solid surface like plastic sheeting, and vinyl tape. Some builders actually do steel roofs with fiberglass touching the roofing. Like you, I personally wouldn't recommend it, but they do it anyway. The best way, is a solid moisture barrier on the inside, and at least a 1/2" air gap from the insulation to the metal roofing to allow air to flow and prevent the moisture build up.
Get the 4x8 3” pink sheets for in between the frame which will leave a little air pocket for swet to dry, and then plastic the entire thing tape the seams then get the foil faced and go over the frame like plywood
I'm looking at this option right now. Did you install with an air gap? I see guys using 1x2 furring strips to create the air gap. How did you install and what would you do differently if doing again?
@@jaybabcock4557 an airgap is required for a thermal bridge to take place. The heat reflects off the radiant barrier. It's also good to have a gap to stop moisture and condensation issues.
Hey man looking sweet. Not sure what you got planned for hanging drywall but I was gonna mention using that bubble foil as a vapor barrier and then run 1x4 perpendicular to the metal on 16 inch centers then hang the drywall. The air gap will make that fool work better it’s amazing how much radiant heat can be reflected back into a place.
Eddy Goodwin thanks I appreciate it! And yeah I gotta put some vapor barrier up for sure and then drywall. But yeah that’s a good idea too I thought about doing that to mount the drywall to
My shop is made the same way. Carport material. Very happy with it besides the spacing between the bracing. Made it extremely difficult to insulate and put walls up. All my vertical framing is between 52" and 59" apart so everything is off. I don't know why they didn't do 48" centers. If I knew then what I know now, I would've paid more to get the framing on 48" centers. Putting up r13 and 4x8 thermostat insulation has be a nightmare. Also my doors are the storage unit type roll up. I ordered extra large doors and spent thousands on them so I'm stuck with them for now. My advice, do not order roll up doors from the building company. Have your local garage door company put up nice rail type doors that fit tight against the frame and closes the air gap like you did. I spent over 50k on my building with no insulation, wiring, nothing. But I have 2k sqft. It's taken me 2 yrs to get the electrical done and now working on insulation/walls. Me being one person, it's hard work. But I've saved a ton doing it myself. Foam insulation just for the roof they quoted $6500. That's insane. I did r13 fiberglass on the walls and I'm doing bubble radiant barrier for the roof. Today I'm working on the mini split. Been weeks and still don't have it in. Going into winter and want heat so that's my goal the next few days.
From experience with my own shop here in South Georgia, not worried so much with cold but triple digit temps in the summer, insulating that door will be worth every min. spent with it and its cheap and easy
Sorry to do this but as a word of caution to viewers who might choose to follow your directions, I have to rain on your parade. You are in a cold climate, the steel skin of your building is a vapor barrier and you are going to have condensation issues when water vapor reaches the metal. That is not a question of if but of how soon. How do I know? I do this for a living and know from experience (and building science) that fiber insulation just doesn’t work in this type of structure. You need an insulation system that prevents vapor from reaching cold surfaces and in reality that means closed cell spray foam. Yes, spray foam is more money up front but it works. If you continue down the path you are on now, you will end up ripping out your drywall and starting over.
DIY BOSS, in short - no. As I described in my original comment, the exterior vapor barrier (the steel) in combination with permeable insulation is the problem and adding another one will have no effect at all. The only way to insulate your building properly is to use an air- and vapor impermeable insulation system (i.e. closed cell spray foam) that will keep moisture from reaching the steel in the first place. Adding an additional interior vapor barrier between the drywall and the insulation is not a good idea either as it will create a system that will be unable to dry out in any direction.
@@torstenhansen4308 I'm actually in the process of buying one similar "I think" and an worried about insulation as I work with epoxy.. so I need warmth and a finished interior.. Soo the company suggested that bubble wrap stuff. That's what they use on the ceilings. Why wouldn't that work
People do not do this the way they are ! You must put styrofoam or something between the metal and insulation because it is going to sweat and will mold terrible !
Hope you felt the warmth difference , both last winter and many to come . You can never have too many outlets or enough power . 110 is good but have at least one 220 is better.
Thanks for all the information from EVERYONE, this will save me a ton of trouble down the road. At least if this guy lives in New England, there's so little humidity year round, they'd be fine.
CONDENSATION!!!!! Better rip down now and do right or you can tear rusted out garage later. Hopefully after you have recovered from the lung infection from the mold.
My 400sqft tree/playhouse even has a sub panel ..and I did a 1½ gap between my tin roof and the vapor barrier like a bubble wrap foil stuff .. then the r 19 .. live and learn
Same here I seen the other video u reviewing it.. and im.doing this year .. but i like to see drywalling ..os.already looking good im.already visualizing me working in it.. good job
Awesome, great to see young lads working hard. Watching this because I got a little shed that needs insulation.. my house would fit in your garage, 😂 but well done..
Yup, I used a double sided foam board with glued standoffs one inch from the metal, and then did this with the fiber insulation. This way I have a heat barrier and a vapor barrier to prevent rust and mold.
I went closed spray foam and 99% of where I covered, has stopped condensation. Where I sprayed thin, it still condensates. Waiting til summer to RE-spray again. Also, I ran out after underestimating how much spray foam I would need so make sure you get more than you think you'll need.
Not to be negative.. but I don’t think it will for very long with simple spray adhesive like that. I would be surprised if this installation was still holding up. Adhesive is probably failing or failed.
I do not understand why so many people think you will have mold issues. I assume you live in Michigan or Indiana (colder regions). The faced insulation is a vapor barrier. A vapor barrier needs to be facing the warm side (which is the inside). I am literally doing the same thing and using osb for the walls and everything is working just fine. I do have a vented suspended heater along with a thru wall AC unit. That, I am sure, will help keep the interior dry. This is literally how people have been insulating old pole barns for decades... All you have to do is control the moisture. You do that by installing a vented heater and have AC or a dehumidifier. Do not use a heater that is not vented. That will cause moisture in the inside.
If you were a female, well you know what I mean. If you built a taller garage (or twice the size), would you have done this yourself? What about trapped heat and or moisture on the metal structure? How are you preventing this and or water damage? Thanks!
Looking forward to seeing drywall. Im having a similar building installed in the south. Looks good! I'm adding the double bubble "insulation" more for a vapor barrier as well.
Place in georgia makes insulation with vapor barrier , insulation and white backing custom made into rolls same width as the rafters. 5ft. I am glad a watched this video. 3 m glue is a great idea.
Oh man! This is a terrible idea! Your insulation will get moldy real quick. The vapor barrier will just trap moisture in between the steel and insulation.
You have no idea what you are talking about. Let me guess, you would suggest a vapor barrier on the outside and inside, am I right? That would cause mold for sure since you would have double vapor barriers that would trap moisture in the middle.. This is the correct way to insulate a pole barn and they have been doing it this way forever.. Just need to make sure the heater is vented and have a dehumidifier or AC unit removing moisture. No different than a house except a house will have way more moisture inside than this garage will ever have.
Did you ever finish it up with plywood or Sheetrock? I don't see a problem with moisture myself.. The insulation should stop the condensation, since the temperature is going to slowly change between shop temp and into the insulation before getting to the outside metal sheeting.. But, we are curious to know how it is going after the time.. If you have time to do another video, go for it.. Something else to consider down the road for me.. I have never had in floor heating, but, it just makes sense to me and I built a Oil Burner that will do a nice job warming things up, ground up.. Thanks.. Nice shop/Garage.. Commented about using Silicone on the other video before I saw you had done it... You can drop some landscape fabric and gravel around the outside to stop the dirt splashing up.. Cheers!!
Thank you! No I didn’t ever end up putting walls up and I actually took the insulation down because the glue was failing and falling down. Gonna spray foam next I think. In floor heating would be awesome
There are only two types of adhesives: 1) Those which have failed and 2) those which will fail. This spray stuff is a legitimate tool for securing the batts in place, but they shouldn't be relied as a permanent means of fixing them to the structure. Personally, I'd use this method in combination with a thin stud wall. Good video.
Well you added a whole bunch more insulation on that ceiling than you should have. Follow the trusses on the angle of the roof. No need to do the sidewalls above 8' There has to be some kind of venting or that stuff is going to be a mess in just 2 years.
I wonder if you could get that in like a non-aerosol application with a weed sprayer or something cuz that looks like it'll be super helpful on the ceiling
I think your installation went pretty well and it looks good. I think over time, glue will not be enough to hold the ceiling panels in place. I’ve seen other installations where the that insulation starts to sag And separate. The price, less than $1000, is excellent.
came out good. I have the same type of garage and was told if i was going to heat it i couldnt use that type of insulation because the metal will get moist and mold the insulation. Let me know how it works for you when you heat it im looking to insulate mine
Yes it can especially in the northern climates. Hope you don’t try to heat it with propane. Every gallon on propane burned puts 1 gallon of water into the air. So it will have way higher humidity then out. Moisture moves from warm to cold. So it will drive the vapor through the fiberglass and then Condensate when it hits the metal. The best type of insulation for a metal building like this is closed cell foam.
Coffey's Garage he’s correct. When the warm air inside the building reaches the cold metal walls, condensation will form on the inside of your walls. That will soak the fiberglass, reducing its effectiveness and causing mold and/or mildew. You should have used insulation with a vinyl backing that stops the warm air from reaching the metal. The exposed studs would need a vapor barrier as well, or condensation will form on those, saturating your drywall when that’s installed. This is why people use closed cell spray foam to insulate these buildings. I’ll post a link to an article about it. Hopefully you can do something to prevent these problems. Good luck. www.whirlwindsteel.com/blog/bid/238023/tips-to-prevent-condensation-in-metal-buildings
Hi mate. Great video! Have you had any issues with condensation? I've a 40x13ft to put up and looking for insulation as I had to leave my other (uninsulated) shed for 6 months during lockdown. Checked on it the other day and it was pooling with condensation. Luckily what I had stored was covered anyway but it did leave a puddle in a few areas and a very wet roof
@Ed; Also the other way around, colder outside-warmer inside. My metal shed is 12x25, currently uninsulated and unheated, formed condensation on the ceiling due to snow on the roof. Even though the 'air' temp diff wasn't that far off, the snow on the roof kept the ceiling side of the metal panel at freezing and it sweat and dripped. Even if I insulate this spring will the insulation prevent sweating between the insulation and metal panels (walls or ceiling)?
In the process of deciding what type of garage to go with. Like what you have done here. What company did you order from and what are you going to finish over the insulation with? Looks really good!
Justin French thanks! Carport central if you watch my other garage video I review it and you can see everything about it and make your decision. And I think drywall but there’s a chance I use plywood but I’m gonna post a video when I do it too
If you glue standard batts to the metal walls then dry wall over, what will happen if there is a leak from the outside? Will it not rot, as there is no vapour barrier, no gap to breathe?!
Interceptor2500 it ended up being 6 cans of adhesive if I remember right. And it was 3 master bags of insulation. The ceiling insulation has fell in a few spots from the temp changes and the wind coming thru the top but I’ll put it back up when I do the ceiling
I dont know what you are using this building for but I am waiting on my building to be delivered and they highly recommended the double bubble... that metal condensates.. after double bubble, frame and then do the pink insulation
What was the size of your building? Also why did you go with regular garage door instead of roll up? I’m looking to do a 40’x40’x14’. Trying to get all the info I can get.
I recommend not using a paper faced sheet rock. Eventually you will get some minor leaks if the siding is screwed on like my pole barn. Paper will attract mold.
please add plastic as a vapor barrier... i think if you are heating and creating moisture that will be important to keep that fiberglass from mold. Also... for a garage, I'd use OSB for walls as it is so easy to hang all kinds of stuff on wood ... also if you need to get in the wall... a few screws and you can remove a sheet easily.
Hi nice video. Love the garage. So I'm currently extending my welding shop and I have been a approved by my city to add an additional 20x24ft garage. So I'm looking for something like yours. What company is your shop from? Ty
@@indiejones4683 maybe he should have used chicken wire to hold the insulation? What about using the plastic backed insulation they use in metal building?
Wheres the next video with the drywall? Do you recommend 2 garage doors or 1 ? I'm in the process of ordering a 20x25, I like the look of a single garage door. I should ask for a single garage door. Theres so many options! I'm so stressed. 🥵
Gary Haber hopefully coming soon haha been a crazy summer! I would go with one if you can and make it wide like I did. Two is cool but then you always have a pillar in the middle and that would get annoying trying to avoid
@@YamRida468 my thoughts exactly. I have a deposit on a 2 door garage. I should change it before its fabrication is done. I like the regular garage door with the rails too. 👍
@@YamRida468 ordered mine today. 20x25 with a 14 x 7 door, going to buy one of those 4 piece roll doors with the rails/opener. Hate those mini storage type of doors. 👍👍 thanks bud. Looking forward to watching the next vid.
@@YamRida468 Hey friend ~ Not trying to give you a hard time, but I'm curious did you experience any kind of mold and or rust? I noticed in the comments everyone carrying on about some type of vapor barrier needed. Thanks ✌
@@123keepitsimple97 don’t believe that. He definitely have mold that’s why he didn’t put up the drywall. He probably changed his mind & ripped that shit out lol 😂
@@YamRida468 start tearing out the insulation now if your doing a vapor barrier!! And a true vapor barrier includes something between the studs and walls as well. Your BULLSHIT METAL BUILDING PEOPLE should have told you all this when they where selling you the building. They should have gave you the option of buying some sort of barrier material. It’s not your fault because you probably didn’t know but this is how these sham metal building company’s sell product. Unless you opted out the insulation they where offering then that’s another story! Good luck is all I can say! Proper insulation for a metal building can get very expensive and people don’t realize it till it’s too late 😩😩😩
I just had a 30x36 one built. I prefer not to have it spray foamed, like this idea much better!!..Need a carpenter first, then electrical done before I reach this stage. ..thanks for your guidance!!
