I would get fired at the dealership i work at if i did that inner wheel well like that.The next wreck could be fatal from the next accident! The TDS sheet should tell you excactly how to put that car back to original oem spec.
You know you could have 10 video on this assembly, if you just make how to change the dashboard, change the radio, change many more, because there is a lot of people who search how to repair one part or 2 part of their Honda Pilot. Next time do that you could have more videos and more subscriber.
Have you ever had to reset the crash, avoidance lane departure and CMBS system? I’m looking to use your video and to help here to rebuild a 2019 Honda pilot. Any advice would be helpful. Thank you.
bro....holy shiiiiiiii...you are a magician!! i just binge watched all 6 episodes. but i cant comprehend how something like this is profitable or a cheaper way to get into a 2019 STI for your customer, right?! how much would something like this cost in just the labor alone?! please PM me cuz i'm super curious and baffled at the same time. thanks man. again amazing work.
Soon to be listed on offer up "great buy, was involved in a small fender bender nothing that some good ol elbow grease couldn't fix, excellent gas mileage, perfect for your love one headed to college, $22,000 nothing less, I know what I got, no trade ins, please serious buyers only, run before it's gone!! ****
Nick is glad to see you back! I am a big fan of the RU-vid channel I watched you for years. Congratulations on your comeback. Wishing you the best of luck my friend I am subscribed. Shout-out from Anoka Minnesota
Dude you need a Rail Saver. It’s like the little duck bill expanding tool that comes with lots of Porta Power kits, but it’s designed to fit indeed most modern boxed frame rails, is about 24” long I think, and would slip inside that rail, expand, and theoretically straighten out those bends. Most often some spacers would be required to shove in there to take up slack before spreading the bar. But I’ll speak from experience on my daughter’s Dodge Magnum, same frame. That ultra strength steel is actually ULTRA HIGH STRENGTH. I’ve pounded on dozens of old 60’s and 70’s cars, and while strong, they can be manipulated with crow bars, come-alongside, bottle jacks, and the like. I had a similar wrinkle on the Magnum’s frame rail from a side impact, with barely noticeable bending. After straightening, I wanted to flatten out the wrinkles, so I went to town with a hand sledge. Got too close to the brand new strut, coil, etc, so I used a 3’ ling tire spoon, hit the handle end of that with a hand sledge, and put the spoon end on the edges of the creases. Two hours, over a thousand very, very hard hits, and it made almost no difference. It take TONS of force to bend that steel. A few hundred pounds won’t fix that. Ask me how I know. Wish I had the rail saver before hand. It could have saved me many hours and my hands wouldn’t be shell shocked. A lot of MAP gas torch heat helped, but that is not suggested, without a quick quench and additional stress hardening with a dead blow hammer. Otherwise that steel is seriously compromised. But in my opinion, compromised from what? Ultra high strength steel, to very, very high strength steel? I bent three different C clamps, which became more of shallow “W”, made that tire spoon handle look like the mushroomed head on a tent spike, and bowed the wall in my garage with my porta power ram, even after bolting a 4x4 across five studs horizontally. Procedure says that any tears in the steel require replacement, and that if you need to measure to see if a crease has any 90 degree wrinkles, that’s close enough and it needs to be replaced. Shallow wrinkles are correctable.
Do you happen to have part 4 of the rebuild? I own this car and was wondering what additional work was done to finish the car. I am not sure if you wrapped it pearl white or a shop after you did. If you could send me the details, that would be awesome.
It was my car but a Turo renter totaled it. I think he never uploaded part 4 because the owner installed a black hood and orange front bumper and instead of painting them just wrapped it.
Hello, Thank you for the video... I would like to ask if can I replace the Radiator Support Tie Bar, Front Lower only instead of the entire bulkhead if the damage is just in the lower tie bar of the bulkhead